have they every sold a pair of these? cant find any review or anything on the internet

i used my 04 32 vanilla's for a year or so after wear appeared ,had to service them every 1 and a half months as dirt was getting in the leg, sell em off and get some rock shox revelations, you'll still need to replace the oil in the legs every few months.

If you want to get another year out of them youll want to service them every couple of months and try and smooth the wear over with nail varnish.

those tyres actually look suited to the bike ,love the frame colour/decals

I reckon it'd look better with the decals off the forks.

buy a shimano chain

iv'e swapped over the spacers now, the rings were new with the chain in January and are always well cleaned, chain oiled . I've also made a 'chain suck preventing/stopping off mashing steel device' consisting of inner tube and 3 zip ties right next to each other!

i use some fork oil in an old chain lube bottle, works perfect and shouldn't damage the fork as it's full of the stuff inside.

just agree with everything the caller says

you rode what ton owned last week

pop the seals off the a stanley knife of thin screw driver and clean them up ,then cover them in grease and put the seals back on, should get a good few months out of them.

does removeWAT not fix the genuine windows notification thing on beta?
care to explain?

coke?

what he said ^

yep ,i just keep re-assuring it thats it's still 2009, they'll catch up soon im sure.

The plug is attached to a 7/8 mm bleed bolt, this has loosened (no idea how), you get bike out, pull leaver, dot fluid squirts out of bleed nipple and forces up plug in doing so. Answer is to bleed and tighten this bolt up – just nipped up.

No, the newer versions have just a plastic plug.

i don't see a 2011 32 vanilla on the fox site?

I think you have to buy a new damper cartridge or somthing silly like that, the red tube bit attached to the lever i think.

Don't you want the most reliable brakes on a demo fleet? that have long pad life and are easy to fit new pads and don't require bleeding very often? Surely the little extra power they give and the looks aren't worth it if they aren't as reliable and easily maintainable?

presumably a massive allen key

in my experience ive had mixed feelings, i bought an on one qr seatclamp, that claimed to have a brass bush (so it wouldn't disintegrate like a plastic one),came with a plastic one, thought okay ill let them off, first ride the bush fell apart after being only very lightly clamped. Emailed them and asked for them to send me a brass bush but told i'd have to send it back, disappointing , didn't want to be off the bike for a few days so made my own.

itll just be 5-10ml more in the legs i presume

Hi,
I entered online at xcracer.com, should i have recieved anything in the post?
Or do i just come on the day and get my race number etc?

Thanks,
Sam

shiamo am40's ,meant to be alot better made than five tens with same level of grip ,and the lace cover is handy.DMR V12's are excellent pedals, ive got the mag versions and they came second hand on a bike i bought over a year ago and looked old then but the bearings are still perfect, new axle nut (30p) every few years when you put some more grease in and they're fine, they're a wierd finish, must be five shades of silver on my pedals now, although they've gone out of fashion now they are still the ones to have.

happen to own any bombers?

all orange bike's are made in halifax are they not,
they have a badge that says so and everything!

just make sure you dont buy a reba sl,they are capped at 100mm

120mm reba's would be up to it, very sturdy fork, basically a shorter travel revleation, the revelations are llike lighter pikes, i wouldnt bother with u-turn and wouldnt go for 20mm axle if your budget is limited , some 140mm revelations would be perfect i reckon, reliability is good and they are very easy/quick for serviceing. The revelation can be adjusted internally to 120 and reba race upwards can be put to 120mm, very little weight difference between reba and revelation unless theyre u-turn, but will be probably 1 pound+ lighter than your z1 (3.8lb reba/rev)

already got 2 and a half hours in and cleaned the bike, fear of sunburn has now brought me indoors, riding in this weather is, as you'd imagine, quite hot.

shoot it from a long distance :D

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=31537

i ended up putting a 70-30 mix of motor oil and fork oil in the lowers, and just used motor oil for foam rings, both semi synthetic so should be fine, it 's not for damping so i presume something designed to keep a car engine lubricated will be fine in a suspension fork keeping the stanchion lubricated.
dry as a bone in there, the foam rings had no oil on them! 2009 dual air rev's , put a bit of 7wt in each air chamber with the suspension pump too.

so , should i mix it half and half with the fork oil? (both semi synthetic)

thanks for the replies

its semi synthetic? is that okay

why would you not the the 15w40 with 7wt ? or just use the 15w40?

thanks,

i have some 15wt-40 thats semi-synthetic like the fork oil, should i mix with this?

yes just lowers, i know your meant to use 15wt, so thought id mix some , would just motor oil be okay for lowers and foam rings? Which would you use, 7wt fork oil or 15wt/50 motor oil?

easy to fix by yourself with bits of ebay, loads of youtube vids show you how

kona's are normally 30.0 are they not?

wait a minute, whats the advantage of this?

my previous frame came with a big dent, was fine for the year i used it. Just recently changed it.