thebikechain – Member

Spock – you better email Steve peat about this. He is riding one for DH omg he might die etc.

for racing i think carbon fibre is perfectly fine , the bikes are probably replaced every few months and the weight savings are large, but for something you want to last say 5 years i just dont think it would last as long. Although with how thin they're making aluminum tubes on some bikes now your probably better off with carbon. Doesn't carbon degrade over time alot quicker than aluminum and steel? Im talking more of the long term ,multiple years of abuse

carbon fibre isn't meant for mountain bike frames, somthing that can be fractured by rocks pinged up is not a good idea in my opinion, some seriously sizeable rocks can be kicked up riding downhill

you can make the 35mm conversion out of tape and cardboard if i remember rightly, videos on youtube .
Problem is you have to click it round 30 odd times precisely or somthing if you convert it

the real BIG problem with the shimano is the fact their cones can just decide to tighten and you can end up in alot of trouble if your a long way from home

the reason people dont buy shimano hubs is that cup and cones are a bugger to get tightened perfectley, the freehubs are slow engaging and just dont last. Also when they do go wrong, say the rear wheel cones tighten on themselves, if your ten miles from home you either have a long walk or you ruin your drop outs.

Sealed bearing hubs are just much more convenient for mountain biking ,less to go wrong, easy to take apart (two allen keys with a superstar hub) to clean and put a little grease on the freehub etc. The freehubs are serviceable, when they need new bearings you just knock them out ,pay a little for some bearing from a local shop and knock them in. And they'll last a few years (some i know lasted 10 years of weekly abuse in a hope hub).

Price isnt really an issue with superstar knocking them out the same price as deore hubs .(the superstar hubs are great by the way)

just let the air out, compress it, fix it there with a belt and undo

I imagine this is very good
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=283

I have a set of their cheaper hubs and they're excellent.

on the racing ralph advert in singletrack it says 'limited durability and puncture resistance'

That would put me off.

A fox 150mm is the same length as a rockshox recon 140 i think, and they put that on the cheaper model, so yes it'd be fine

superstar hubs are very very good value

enduro is a heavier duty than xc, more like all mountain , well when your talking about parts anyway

Yes , the adjustment just effects the lockout

Rock shox dual air revs come very close to coil, i have 32 vans previously and they are very very similar, it'd be a push to say which is plusher, i prefer the revs tbh.

Why not replace the bearings in the shimano one , £4.50 for two bearings of ebay, pack them with grease and put them in, you just need to modify the top hat( sand of lip that clips into back on bearing so you can fit standard 6805 bearings in (1mm wider). If your'e bothered about the 2mm of axle loss just take out a spacer. Spin very smooth & free, mine is still grit free and smooth after a month or so. The seal on the replacement bearings are alot better than the ones shimano put in(they just sit on top of the bearing, replacement one fits under & inside the cartridge if you know what i mean)

that is too cheap

steer clear, lock on bolts(grub screws) worse than useless, just get superstar grips, miles miles better. Those dmr grips last weeks if your lucky.

Very good fun, excellent decents, 2 hours to do north & south loop,you'd probably want to do the south loop twice. Prefer it to the glentress red run, although prefer the innerleithen red run, if thats any guage. Definitely worth a visit

i pretty sure it's self serviceable

wheel building is also alot easier than i thought it would be, the sheldon brown guide is excellent, you can use your old spokes too

ive had the same problem, i think its the freehub thats gone ,you undo it with a big allen key, im fed up with cup and cone so just bought a superstar rear hub, cheap as chips, uses sealed bearings so easy to service, very similar to hope inside (although obviously not the same quality). Just built it up and it's excellent ,definately reccomend them

i paid 40 instead of 30 for the switch for the 100grams lighter and abilty to switch axle types(the latter i will never use)

its a seriously easy job to service a fox forks and even easier with a rear shock, all you need is 7.5wt fork oil(or similar) and usual everyday tools.

for the fork just undo both nuts till they're flush with the end of the threaded shaft, give them a tap with a rubber mallet(or hammer with bit of wood),slide the lowers off, make sure theyre clean inside, put 5-10ml more in the legs than fox tell you to (so probably 25ml in both legs if fit damper, 25ml in left and about 130ml in the right if open damper) and remember to soak the foam rings (just below the wiper seals.
With the rear shock all you need to do is let the air out, unscrew the sleeve, clean up the inside and put 5ml of shock oil in

Fork oil is about a fiver from a car/motorbike shop for 500ml, which would last 10 lower leg services (if its the FIT damper,less if not)

although it may seem so it isn't rocket science taking the lowers off, just undo the 2 nuts, give them a gentle tap, and slide them off, then all you need to do is squirt some oil onto the foam rings(below the wipers) and put 20ml back in when the lowers are slid back on again. the fork will not explode into a million peices, only two

they were built by merlin originally so presumably are decent quality,

thanks for the help,
Sam

SO, the shimano hub is
Hub flange diameters – 61mm (58mm superstar)

Flange distance -35.35mm(left) 21.75(right) (superstar 36mm left 22mm right)

Will they be fine?
(remember its the same rim)

they're less than a year old, how do i know which length of spokes is required?

take the caliper off, put a flat head screw driver between the pads and prize them gently apart, force is needed but not masses. Then bolt it back on and set the caliper in the right position visually, making sure there is an even gap between the rotor and pad on both sides

theyre still not the same

get the lowers off , soak the foam rings in fork oil ,and put 25ml of fork oil in each lower, that'll fix it

five ana a half pounds i think, half a pound more than a 456 or inberd

61805 i think but you've got to make sure you get the 24mm internal diameter ,probably best getting proper hope ones.

Light & Motion stella 150 packs a punch

140mm forks like revs work great on a 456, no need at all to change travel at that length

mboy has the best idea with selling them and getting some with a longer steerer, shouldn't lose much if any money if your patient

im pretty sure its a one time process, looks like youll be after a new crow assembley

Yes?

turns out its these ones- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310125448454&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1320wt_911

Charge spoon's are good and cheap

Yes

i actually really like that orange frankenbike, is that an alfine of the back or just ss?

RIAT ,biggest in the world http://www.airtattoo.com/