problem is it doesnt really seal them, more lets you know by spraying sealing left right and centre like a water feature

Why not go for the cheaper superstar switch hubs, it seems the reliablility issues are to do with the super fast engagement. The switch has a very similar if not same engagement as the hope pro 2's .

my cheapo superstar switch makes a lovely 'hope like' click. I want it louder! I tried oil but it was quieter !

the shimano freehubs are what keeps me away, useless, the superstar hubs are excellent value, like cheap hope hubs. Same sorta design just lesser quality. Well made tho

Buy some superstar switch hubs and stick em on.

get the drill out

buy a sram chain

just buy the bearings on ebay, usually 99p each, and then pack em with grease

Thanks for the help, bodged inner tube seal made

wait a minute, ive been a complete numpty, the top bits sorted now, you use the circular sealed bit on the top that i tought went on the bottom, so i may be missing somthing from the bottom, or does the race go straight onto the bearing?

No-one?

No, its the old one.

i failed to inflate with two co2 cannisters, froze the valve and the fairy liquid very quickly so suppose it has bad effects on the sealant

Im sure you don't need 2.5's, 2.1 62a Exception Maxxis Advantage are very good tyres and are alot wider than 2.1 high rollers. I suppose 2.25 advantages would be good for you, they come up very big

You certainly haven't had it easy, Good luck with your travels . I'm sure you'll have fun

let all the air out of both chambers, then fill the positive chamber first, then the negative

Just make one out of an old inner tube, works perfectly

rough

Rock n roll extreme, alot cleaner than others, brings all the dirt to the top so you can clean it easily and prevents rust better than a big coating of tf2 wet lube. good stuff!

best way to get them in is two pieces of wood and a vice

If you're looking for a basic service between full services from Loco and the likes may i blatantly advertise – http://www.chippingcycles.webs.com/
(not a replacement for a full service like you get from Loco)

so how do you make it louder? :D

i've just started using rock n roll extreme which seems to work well, keeps the chain alot cleaner than tf2 wet lube

hammer it with a flat head, crack the piston and take it out

flat head screwdriver and hammer, smash it out, its the only way

They've been fine on slippy roots, no sudden slips. Very good tyres

maxxis advantage exception 2.1 62a – fast, very light, around £20 ,grippy in muddy and loose conditons, roll fine, good width for comfort and speed.

Stick them on and forget about them

very carefully with a Stanley knife , very carefully

http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/140/230_4010/fsa-bearing-cover-for-megaexo-plastic-ms148.html

replacement top hats /\

rusty notchy bearings?

some cheap revelations then spacer them down to 120?

you could put some clear nail varnish on it, but there is probably a problem with the bushings too.
whats the fork?

sounds foriegn

Hopefully, i've got one arriving tommorow

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FOFOFL150/fox-float-150-rl-suspension-forks

That is a very good price for some floats, you'll have to look after them though

EDIT: Forget that, theyre out of stock and i dont think theyre getting more in

what about a rock shox revelation 20mm axle? best of both worlds

the fox will be alot lighter but the pike will be more reliable long term and more heavy-duty. Depends what sort of bike you're using it for. Remeber they'll both be very similar axle to crown even though they're 10mm different in travel (150mm fox same height as 140mm rock shox)

The oil volume for Rockshox Motion Control damped forks is 120ml not 130! and it should run 5wt oil not 7.5wt. And adding more oil to a fork with a leak on the rebound shaft sealhead will just allow more oil to leak into the lowers and make it hydro lock (spike) earlier in the compression phase. And too much oil in the fork can result in the compression spike blowing the MoCo cart out into your face if it's not set to the correct torque and "just snugg".
Spock hasn't got a clue what he's talking about. And his recommendations are dangerous to follow.
At least you'll know who to sue if it all goes Pete tong though.

And BTW, I service forks for a living, and set up race bikes for pro riders.

To start i said i was not sure about the oil levels and said to check them on the RS site, I use 7.5wt because i prefer the feel compared to 5wt. If there was a leak then he would be experiencing dodgy compression (which there is no mention of) and i'd imagine the rebound adjust would not be working. I forgot 'just snugg' had an exact torque level, i was just saying not to tighten it too much and strip the thread. I'll watch out for those decapitating top caps though.

just take the right top cap of with a 24mm socket(i think) ,empty the oil and put 130mm of 5wt(i use 7.5wt and it works well) in(check the rockshox site for oil levels im pretty sure thats right). Put the top cap on and see if it works ,if it still doesn't work put another 5-10ml in,i measured out the oil, put it back together and the lockout had stopped working, i put a little more in and it worked again

If its remote lockout you don't need to take off the adjuster and it just unscrews normally, you dont need to put it back on super tight ,just nicely snugg

i use 2.1 exception Advantage 62a ,very grippy and light, size up large for 2.1's