http://www.parker-international.co.uk/11800/Park-Tool-TW2-Torque-Wrench—3-8-inch-Drive.html

Anyone managed to use one of these /\

Are they accurate enough for around 4-7nm?

Better for general use than the 0-7nm one or does 0-7nm cover the majority of what people use them for ( i know brake/bar/clamp/stem bolts fall within this range)

Something to do with tightening/loosening the internal spring i think, very tricky to do it yourself from what i grasp, send off job i think

they do look good…… only £38 off parker international too

anyone use the park tools bar type 0-7nm one, £45 , doesn’t need calibration.

raceface ride xc about £21 and you can get 60mm in standard

Roadie.

MTB.

Workshop.

Hi Orange Five, How tall are you? Do you use a 400mm post at full extension? Layback? Short or long stem?

Thanks a lot

No-one ride a 16″ then? i see the singletrack longtermer is a 16″, and he’s 5 10, any thoughts on this?

cheers

Seams like if you want reliability and brakes that can be repaired stick with Shimano!

POSTED 14 MINUTES AGO # REPORT-POST

Thats definitely not true, you can only buy levers and calipers from shimano if you have a problem, no spare seals available!

36/26 up front with a bash & 3 spd shifter & mech, 11-34 at the back with a short cage xtr rear mech, excellent

i wouldnt bother doing much with the darts, not a very good fork, bit of oil on the stanchions to reduce stiction until you can get a tora/reba?

685mm, only just fit through gaps as it is

Yea, I’ve managed an Hour and a bit in a rush but 2 hours sounds about right

then you get the cordless drill out the camelback, attach the 9mm drill bit and make some weight savings to the knee caps.
You can the carefully unpick the zip ties, be a shame to waste them.

discrete shoe lace tie then a quick zip tie (a few pre joined should do the trick) of the ankles together, followed be a gentle push.
That should do the job quite nicely

Also interested in the problem, leaking a little oil on the shaft?

Got the same problem on a freinds bike, ordered an air can seal kit that should sort it…

i’ve always used boiling hot fairy liquid and water, never had any problems

The springs in the slx/xt/xtr mechs are noticeably stronger yes, You should be able to get it working perfectly regardless, unless its years and years old that it…

do you wipe your chain down alot after oiling it? If you dont all the crap sticks to the chain and causes chainsuck in my experience.

I use Rock & Roll Extreme now and dont have the problem i used to with tf2 wet. R & R Extreme isn’t an oil.

http://www.chippingcycles.webs.com/

Any help?

Thanks a lot Trail Rat, Been a bugger to diagnose this one, Will try out DeeW’s methods and give your last ditch method a try.

Thanks,
Sam

sorry forgot to add, the brake did have a crash a while ago, bent the lever quite badly in the process ,could have affected it? (it’s a freinds brake btw)

I think the problem arose (loss of power) while away in a hotter climate, could boiling the fluid a bit cause a seal to go? I’m not talking alp downhilling but i reckon it could boil the fluid of a long downhill track in Mollorca? What are shimano seals like when it oil get a bit toasty?

thanks for the replies,

I’ve tried bleeding both on and now off the bike(swapped the brake for a spare one), Yes it is a rear brake but i haven’t shortened the hose.

Interested methods DeeW! Will have an experiment tommorow.

i dont think you understand me, i was cleaning out the brake of mineral oil after bleeding so i could check for leaks without any red herrings.

To be fair, you didn’t come across very well

racing_ralph – Member

spock – Member
to dry up/clear the crap out of the hard to reach places

POSTED 43 MINUTES AGO # REPORT-POST

is that REALLY necessary tho?

To clean up the brake of water and oil to check for leaks, or are you just being a knob?

to dry up/clear the crap out of the hard to reach places

Thanks for the replies , Learn something new every day!

I’ve bled them , i’ve tried multiple methods from syringe upwards, a bottle, pulling lever and open close bleed nipple and bleed nipple closed and pulling the lever repeatedly to bring up the bubbles,

I’ve had it air free several times, as i said it’d work perfectly for the first couple of pulls ,but then back to mush.

When i was cleaning them up with the compressor some fluid did splatter when i sprayed in to the lever pivot area(but after bleeding so could easily be overflow) piston seals dont seam to be weeping as the pads didnt have any oil on them but who knows!

That’s an open reservoir. Just sounds like it needs bleeding and topping up.

Been Bled several times, works perfectly first couple of lever pulls, then back to sponge

Managed to gauge how good the tyres are yet? Quite interested in those, Nice bike

shimano slx/xt are good at first, but when something goes wrong you may aswell put them in the bin

the lockout works by there being a hole at the bottom of the cartridge which when the lockout if off, lets oil flow through ,but when on stops the oil from flowing.

black and chrome bits, gold is tacky i reckon

36 ,26 up front and 11-34 at the back, homemade Alu bashguard and short cage XTR mech (old one), absolutely perfect, have never spun out on the road downhill and have all the gears i need uphill ,short cage mech quietens it down alot and bashguard means im not loosing any teeth or skin, the Alu bashguard weighs less than a plastic one i had previously strangely .

Why on earth would you want to?

Having a tidy workshop/garage makes me happy, having all the sockets in line and order, all the spanner in their place etc. Well stocked too makes me happy, spares in stock, grease gun full , Park Tool tools standing proudly and neatly.

Sad i know

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/Workstands-Boss-S1200-Rigid-Workstand/BOSSWORK200000000000

This is a bit sturdier, still the same price from ribble

I have used it daily for about a year and it hasn’t missed a beat, very sturdy and adjustable.

And a couple of people I ride with suspect their habit of adding a few drops of chain lube to their stanchions is the reason they’ve worn the anodising off the legs, whereas mine of the same age are fine, difference being I add a few drops of suspension fluid rather than chain lube.

Sorry? You can’t just say this crap and not explain yourself

Are the splines worn? sounds like they might have come loose a bit and been used ,wearing the splines. They are a bit shallow for my liking but i’ve never had a problem with deore,lx or xt. Though i have seen the interface of the crank arms(not the axle) wear so the crank spun, i’m 99% sure it was because the pinch bolts were loose .I dont exactly use them for the same sort of riding you do though…

Flathead screwdriver and a hammer, i’d wear safety glasses if i did it again though, DOT 4 bloody stings.

Obviously the piston wont be re-usable

My Gary Fisher HiFi Pro 2008 frame is excellent, i was apprehensive when swapping with my 456 as i enjoyed riding it so much but it feels just like a FS 456 ,very fast.

120mm out back and 140mm up front, excellent bike