Are you sure?
They look like they have a flat sole

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/SHTIDXZ/time-dxz-freeride-shoes

seal kit there
http://www.tftunedshox.com/Catalogue/Shop-Fox/Fox/Spare-Parts-and-Springs

you can get a kit from here
http://www.tftunedshox.com/Additional-Departments/Oils-and-Grease

or cheaper and enough for two/three services of fork oil but not grease or syringe(don't really need a syringe)
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8399
(currently out of stock)

Very easy to do ,remember to compress the fork about 40mm and hold with a belt to stop the bottom nuts from spinning (might not spin on floats i have vans). 7.5wt fork oil and put 10mm or so more than fox say in the legs. Not sure about the air seals etc but the dust wiper seals are easy to replace but if your not its worth taking the foam rings out (a little fiddly without taking the seals out) and soaking them in thick oil. Also its a lot easier if you take the fork off your bike.

fsa orbit xLII – perfectly smooth and working well after a years use twice a week.

£24

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=1164

Easton ea30, good length and good bar

i'd go for a charge spoon, great shape and just enough padding.
It's a saddle you don't notice, which is a good thing

all you need to do is compress the forks about 30mm and use a belt under the arch and over one side of the crown to keep it compressed, then just undo the bolts

i used 1×9 for about 6 months, 32:11-34, ive just put the granny ring back on, 1×9 is fine for trail centres but i feel the need for a granny on natural routes which make up most of my riding.

For 1×9 i used deore chainring sram 970 cassete and chain with the front mech left on with the limit screws moved and a long cage lx mech, worked fine.

The easiest way to do it is to get a good finish with some iron wool, t-cut it, then use a car polish suitable for chrome.
Thats how i did mine, laquer's not worth the effort in my opinion.

im having a similar sort of knocking just as i stop pedalling

sounds like you've not put enough oil in ,can you just take the top cap of the spring leg and pour some in?

simon- out of interest, how long does the route on the link usually take?

Did a similar route to simons last night, a little boggy in places on the top of dunsop fell but the descents are all dry. Some very tricky decents. Definitely worth doing, the descent from 19 to 20 on simon's map is excellent ,very rocky and technical.

shermer75 – Member
Heh heh that's fantastic! How long did you ride like that?!?

Over a year, i don't know if/how it affected the bike but i never really thought twice about it.
Only just replaced it a couple of days ago.

My FSA XLII is still prefect after a year of two muddy rides a week. I took the bearings out yesterday and they were smooth, not grit etc.

my old kona frame had a massive dent in the top tube, was still fine.

someone should put that chicken on a lead

If you want a cheap reliable brake thats powerful enough for normal trail/xc with 160mm rotors and aren't bothered about loads of adjustment of them being very lightweight use hayes nine's, easy to bleed, change pads and good feel to them ,not on and off like alot of other cheap brakes.
Im not saying they're as good as hope's etc but for the money theyre pretty special.

hammer them closed

i havent read the whole thread or magazine but it looks pretty good ,its quality not quantity remember, why have loads of average articles like in mbuk etc instead of a few really good ones in singletrack.

Stop whinging

nope

i heard nothing

Spock
Hopefully you'll understand if we don't say yet, especially on a public forum, it's unfinished. People who find it are riding it, which we don't really want. the point of putting these pics up is to try and get people interested to come and help build and dig.

You could come to a dig day, then you'd find out.
fair enough, just wondering how it would link into the route.
good work by the way

The brownbacks races did a figure of 8 without having to do the climb, cuts out the downhill with the rock slabs and jumps. Still a really fun loop but its a shame to miss out that downhill bit ,you could cut across at the gate just before the jumps if you wanted to do the rocky downhill but miss out the big climb.

Whereabouts is that new bit your making? I think i know where the exit is but where does it link into the route?

thanks

Why not buy some paint stripper? it comes clean off if you leave it on for a minute, then t cut and iron wool .

easy, theres videos on ebay, same with all fox forks, undo top caps and bottom nuts, swap uppers, put bacc together

yea its the same ratio for the front im pretty sure.

chains…

whats wrong with a clean rag?

Spock, is that a mahoosive 'ding' in your downtube?

Yes, i hadn't really thought about that before.

biiidddddd

The Lactic acid inducing racing machine

a mars bar short of 30lb

orange 5

http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/shimano-lx-m580-item142968.html
there

try to get the lx for £10 extra, should still be about, ive used both ,the deore is excellent for the money, but the lx is stiffer and looks better

my sram pg 970 is great value and looks like it should last

Mark – Resident Grumpy
Call us on 01706 814397 and we'll check for you.

No answer, ill ring tomorrow. It'll probably turn up tomorrow anyway.

On my card it says starts on issue 55 , no. 11049 .
thanks.

i used to but i dont tend to bother now