Nothing new to add here really.

On my Dawg I've been running a 22/36/Bash up front with a 11/34 on the rear. Never had any issues with a good gear in that lot.
The only time is has felt strange is when you are going up a familiar hill and you mentally think think you need a specific gear but because of the larger middle you need to change up one at the back fr example.

Just do it, the extra clearance on the front ring is definately worth it :)

Yeah it has been pouring for a the best part of the day here in Worthing.
As been mentioned before – if tomorrow is dry and windy it will be fine. Otherwise I'm sure there will be plenty of puddles and wet chalk :)

In the past I always prefer the big hammer approach……….however I am tempted just to get some threaded bar and washers as clubber mentioned as my frames seem to get more fragile.

Simples ;)

I don't know which year had that colour but I would be surprised if the Judy forks were original fitment. The Hahanna is at the low end of the Kona range and was often fitted with either rigid forks or low end suspension forks.

Try

Apparently the suspension is very bouncy on those Cannondales……..

Just a health and safety warning so make sure your fluid brakes[/i] are working properly

With those seat stays is it considered to be full suspension ?????

As for that TT bike – well that had me reaching for the sink to dispose of my dinner. Boywill you need dark lenses to ride that :(

Oh forgot to say – I would sell as a frame and forks and split the rest.

Just my opinion of course ;)

I doubt you would recoup the money to be honest.

I would leave it as original and if the new owner wants to have it painted they can do, but in their choice of colour not yours.

I would much prefer to buy a used frame where I can see the damage rather than one that has just been painted to hide the scars !

I'm with Onceinlifetime – just about to have my second operation on prolapsed discs in my back.

Sold the hardtail today :(
Will be sad to see it go but it means pastures new………

Actually I just checked that Paisley Freight site – if I entered the details manually (rather than select it as an option) it gave me a price of about £12 for a bike – not bad at all :)

it's usually Citylink who come to collect.

I can think of no better reason NOT to use them !
I don't think I've ever had a good experience with Citylink……..

I park around about here at the end of one of the fire roads. Cant remember the number – maybe 10 ?? I'm sure one of the locals will confirm.
Enough space for about 4 cars I think. You can pick up the black(!) run about 10m up the fire road.

Thetford parking

However if you want the best riding then go to the west side of the road. No marked trails but they are much more fun. Go and explore ;)

The best and cheapest method I have found is to use a courier. I use the following website as they allow you to enter the details of the size and weight and then give you loads of different options etc.

Interparcel

Book and pay online. They will normal pick-up same day from your house if you book in the morning. Easy no hassle way to do it :)

That looks a pretty good price actually for a towbar mount rack. I had a similar one many years ago – great, would always recommend it to people.

Another company is Pendle. Similar type I believe.

I have a sign in the door saying no door to door sales or hawkers etc.
If they ring on the bell I politely bring this notice to their attention by asking if they are actually able to read. If they insist on talking I then move to the impolite phrases……

If that doesn't work pick up your your old set of Bombers and own them…..

Hi and welcome to the fold :)

First of all it should be pretty easy to transfer your existing parts across to a new frame but there are a few things to look at.
Head tube length – if the new bike has a significantly longer head tube then the steerer on your forks will be too short leading to new forks time.
Seat post diameter – there are many different diameter seat tubes between the manufacturers. Worst case is that you need to purchase a new seat post but these are fairly cheap to replace.
As for which frame – take you pick of loads of longish travel hardtails out in market at the moment. I'm similar size to you and run an 18" frame but others may prefer to go even smaller. Depends how you like your bike to feel :)
On-One, Ragley, Orange, Dialed Bikes……..

Do a quick search on here to come up with plenty of ideas.

I'm a proud SS rider using bar ends, however I do happen to run a flat bar.
As said above, I think with low riser it looks fine. Whatever, having the bar ends makes climbing so much easier and I also find myself using thwm a lot of the time on the flat bits just to stretch out as well.

Farmer Giles would love that to keep his cattle in place.

If you cant work out what it does, should you really be taking it apart?

absolutely yes

Preferably with big hammer……………….

The Kona Hei Hei is very under rated.

Absolutely loving mine. Simply flies along and its happy to get the wheels off the ground without thinking something is going to break.

Obviously not niche enough for most people……

Its such a shame that the Classified seems to be getting so many knobs on it now. It was always a great place to trade your bits and pieces – not so now.

As above name and shame please !

Think he needs some new cotter pins in his crank ;)

Other than the confusion over the pinch bit as above…….

I have got some Geax Saguaro TNT which seem to have a very solid sidewall. Look for any of the Geax in TNT flavour.

As above – spacer kit is the way to go. When you want to move the wheels on it will certainly makes things much easier.
The same goes for buying in the first place.
Always used one myself as well.

Hmmmm – also interested in thia as I'm looking to the PuS event next year and then maybe stay on in the region for another few days riding.

swampi – ygm hopefully !

But bike attachment is not strongest in world so tend to keep it for road bike use, not risking MTB knocks and vibrations

I find my Garmin is most secured when it clamped to the stem rather the bars. The stem prevents it from rotating. However, in the event of a crash it may be better for it to rotatge rather than be smashed !

and the fact that the distributer won't sell you any spare parts, so if you've got some 2nd hand your stuck with paying excessive amout for a repair or buying new ones… I will admit though, that my Magura Louise FR were the most powerful brakes I've ever had, pity there a mess now..

Luckily never had any issues with the 3 sets of Julies and the 2 sets of Louises in current use (fingers crossed now – lol)

The ability to track the whole ride and load it up to Google Earth after is nice, but given the fact that half the new mobiles sold this year and next year have similar tracking apps available, I can't really see the point in getting a garmin now…

Once the mobile falls off the bars or get soaked in your backpack or squashed etc you will wish you had a nice solid Garmin that was designed to take that kind of abuse.

You should have said – got loads sat in the bottom of the drawer. Never found a use for them as they seem so pointless on the shorts :)

In terms of fit and forget I think the best brakes I've had were the low pressure Magura Julies.

A piece of p1ss to bleed and pads seemed to last for ever !

Have moved on to 2 sets of Louise now – nice ;)

Didn't get on with the Avids, the Hayes I had felt very wooden, the Shimano ones – well lets see…..

Are you aiming to be the first then Pete ?

foxyrider – Member
Oh give it up already !!!

Nah – lets see how long we can keep this thread going for !

My view is that the value of the item shouldn't matter at all – either it does the job as advertised or it doesn't.

If you order a pair of trousers and receive 3/4 lengths you would be a bit upset right ?

Forgot to say – nice bike – just keep it and give it some love and think of the times ahead when you can enjoy it again.

I feel your pain as well. I'm currently laying on my bed waiting for scan on my lumber discs. I had a discectomy 2 years ago but its looking like the problem has come back.
I have also found that at times, provided I can actually get my leg over the bike, that a little pootle will help ease the pain.
I have often used a crate or something to use as a step for getting on !

I too remember going going through the shall I sell or not. I decided not to and was glad of it.
This time round I have decided to keep both FS bikes and sell the hardtail.

All the best….

Must be worth sending the guy a text just for the fun of it – lol :)

I admit I do like the challenge and I'm not afraid of being slowed down a little.
Generally I'm faster on the downhills on my SS rigid than a lot of my riding mates on FS ;)

nickc – Member
SC chameleon

Been there tried that and really didn't get on with it.
Binned it after half a dozen rides or so…

I always take my Edge with me to record the data but seldom use it for route finding as such.
Also the data is not something I will religously go over but it nice to see how far you have cycled each month or maybe how fast you did a certain route last month etc…..
The issue with batteries is pretty much dead now I think with internal ones fitted.

It has also survived a number of over the bars moments with the worst damage being a ripped screen protector !!!

Can you try a different USB port in case its something to do with the port / cable and not the iPod itself ?
Do some trouble shooting first to confirm…..