This months Evo magazine has an article about this very thing. And states there are 2 ways of avoiding depreciation: "don't buy a car in the first place, or only buy cars that have done most of their depreciation already and might even appreciate over time."

It then lists 5.
1. Porsche 996 GT3 Mk1 starting @ £36k
2. Ferrari 550 Maranello starting @ £45k
3. TVR Griffith 500 starting @ £13k
4. Sierra RS Cosworth starting @ £8k
5. Lotus Elise Mk1 starting @ £8k

Of the Cossi it states that it has to be standard and well looked after. As started above that's when the problem starts.

Of course at the other end a 500 quid car will always be a 500 quid car…………

I honestly think they don't know they are doing anything wrong.

I think you are probably right, at that's scary.

The original 70's series was great. The first series of this remake was just about tollarable but gave up half way through last night.

Have a Bambooty base layer, very soft and warm but once its wet (very sweaty me) it heavy and cold. Not the same performace in that respect to my HH Lifa's.

sometimes a tad muddy/quote]…………….sometimes, where were you Hugh????

ACX's on the white bike last summer.

So Im paying to train someone using my car as a case study?

In general no as what is missing these days are proper apprenticeships, where this would, under supervision, may have been the case.
But on the other hand yes, professionals in any industry would/should have gone through some sort of training and that is what you are paying for, to employ a professional. Would you expect to walk into any form of employment without the relevant skill set? It's all investment by someone.

I agree that the mechanic at the dealership won't see the majority of the charge and you will pay more at a MD. Again that's the difference between employed and self-employed tradesmen, there is always someone taking a bigger cut.

A competent mechanic can carry out work very quickly. They dont need to step back, figure out, look. Worked out what needs to be undone and where. Then struggle with a big spanner for an hour saying 'it was seized on mate'.

Exactly and that sort of knowledge/expertise/training costs. The dealer will have a time listing for each job and the mechanic has to work to that. Plus, hopefully all the special tools if required. The bloke under the arches doesn't.

It amuses me how people on here think getting work done – not just on cars – should cost peanuts. In this case, yes the boots are only a cheap item but to replace them you still need to remove the CV joint from the shaft, so that’s removal, strip and refit. And it’s both sides. With prices for a reasonable main dealer at £75-£100 (probably more) per hour it soon adds up. As for the pads, I was paying that sort of money (if not more) 5 years back on my Passat, so cheaper in real terms, according to the government.

Herts? If you’re after parts try Murrays in Hatfield[/url], very knowledgeable. There is (was, may be gone now but check) a VW chap behind the Total garage on the A414 at Colney Heath. Ask in Murrays for a local VW man.

brant – Premier Member

"My handbrakes frozen on so the rear wheels are locked…"

Alfa 145?

Funny you should say that, my wife's 146 did this (again) over the weekend.

As for the coil spring, seems to be a more common occurrence these days, poorly maintained roads and speed humps. One went on the front of my Mondeo last year, you get the impression all hells broke loose.

Hugh, did you sort this? If you want a different account to test or use I can set one up for you. Will be different pop & smtp so will provide a check that nothing else is amiss.
let me know (phone or text)
spence

bowglie you mention about longer journeys within you 4k so I take from that you understand the condensation problems with many shot ones. Where is the car kept when not used? The same consideration should be taken. ie dry garage if possible to prolong the mild steel life.

Suggsey, I believe the (early at least) Passat B5 TDI's had a stainless or part stainless systems, will explain why yours has done well. My T plate was on 160k when I got rid, still on the OEM.

Make sure you knock all the nail heads down.

From the few pieces of their Professional range I have they seem OK. Probable better they the standard Draper stuff but not up to Britool/SnapOn.

Looking at the same thing today.

Considering the Sony Alpha 230 (looked at one in John Lewis £349), felt OK with a few good features (image stabilisation etc) but reading reviews it's not coming out very well. The older 200 is better apparently. Also looked at the Canon 1000D (JL £399), didn't feel very well made, a bit plasticy.

Coming home and reading some more reviews have almost settled on the D3000 as it does seem to getting some good ones. Will go look at one tomorrow. I know JL have them at £399 plus there is a £30 cash back from Nikon at the mo. I'm sure they are cheaper elsewhere on the net.

Also thought about a Pentax K-M (will take some old lenses I have) but as yet not seen one in the flesh or available of web

Talk with Josh at Caesar's Cycler in San Anselmo http://www.marinbikeshop.com/ he'll sort out a bike and mark-up a map with "local trails". Used them for the last couple of years, bikes have been good (Titus moto light / Trance x).

You can ride from there upto Taramancho – you'll need a day pass – or up Mt Tam via the Eldridge Grade. Plenty to do.

Done. Was there in April this year and last and would like to go back again. Recommend Caesar’s Cyclery in San Anselmo, sorted me out some good bikes to rent.

Mine did this. I’m guessing that they’re from the same batch CRC had for sales late April. Compression/lockout failed then Monday the things locked out (well about 40 mm of travel then solid) with a bang.
Dropped them off at LBS yesterday for return to Fishers, again thought it would be quicker then going through CRC. Daft thing is I have to drive past Fishers to get to the LBS!!! I wish they’d take stuff direct.

Bye cheap pay twice…………………………………….. :cry:

According to the cheap TV reality cop shows they are impounded on the spot if caught being driven.

Good to see Cosworth back as an engine supplier. Hopefully the 50 guys who lost their jobs at MB can get work down the road.

Just replaced my PG990 with another one, no marks on the hub body after nearly a year.

Are the warranties being offered by the dealers theirs ie they will guarantee the car and get the car fixed no matter what or the insurance type as stated above?

If it’s the former then you may be OK. Most stuff will show up fairly quickly if it’s being “hidden” by the dealer (as your previous) otherwise it’s part of the risk of buying a second hand car.

Example:
I brought mine from a Ford main agent even thou it was far older than they usually stock. They had sold the car twice already and done most of the servicing/work on it, they were happen to sell it on again. The warranty was a 3 month or 3000 mile guarantee by them for all parts and labour (including consumables). It must have cost them as they were true to their word, fitting a new DMF/clutch, starter motor, wheel bearing and drive shaft** inc a courtesy car within the time frame. I guess you could say I brought a duff motor, not now it’s fixed.

**Look for the above on the Mondeo.

Sorry that should be MTX-75. I believe all MK3’s have the this (4 cylinder anyway) The dual mass flywheel is used to counter act the torque pulse of 4 pot 4 stroke’s especially diesels. I think all the diesels have them not sure about petrols. Some earlier cars may have a solid flywheel.

Ask on here Mondeo Forum

Had both, 2 Passat TDi’s Estates and currently have a Mondeo Estate (hatch previously)
The Passat is a better built car, feels more solid with a stronger feeling engine (bhp for bhp) and gives better MPG but servicing was more expensive. Brakes are move sensitive but more powerful overall. For the Mondeo it handles better, more fluid. The seats offer more support – for me with a bad back anyway – and there’s more interior space. The MT75XX gearbox feels better but be careful of the DMF/clutch, can go between 40-70k miles.
Having covered about 150K miles in each type over the last few years, I’d be happy with either. Just depends on deal you can get.

Too slow………….

Highway code, rules for cyclist 66

You should

* keep both hands on the handlebars except when signalling or changing gear
* keep both feet on the pedals
* never ride more than two abreast, and ride in single file on narrow or busy roads and when riding round bends
* not ride close behind another vehicle
* not carry anything which will affect your balance or may get tangled up with your wheels or chain
* be considerate of other road users, particularly blind and partially sighted pedestrians. Let them know you are there when necessary, for example, by ringing your bell if you have one. It is recommended that a bell be fitted

Ambiguous as always.

OK have done. Opening the area would be great, there are only a few “official” trails at the moment. Mind you Taramncho makes up for it.

Julian you say “2001/02 ish”

There was a difference, the 2001 had some issues with the seat tube cracking around the shock mounts. 2002 onwards had some extra strengthening. You can tell by as 2002 had V brake bosses where as the 2001 and 2003 (but had the extra plates) onwards did not.

Great bike. Had a 2002, initially with 85mm Dukes the 100mm Pace was fine with both.