We crapped a 106 last year through http://www.rewardingrecycling.co.uk/ all done on-line and got £130 for it. Probably could have got a little more selling as it was very clean for its age and had 4 new tyres but an engine management fault. For what we got verses the hassle of selling it was a good compromise.

Thanks I’ll do the basic checks in the morning.

The hot (or cold) air only is a known failure, the heater control valve module can fail in either the open or closed position (hot or cold). The system pumps hot air when set to cold (no AC) with no variation as the temp setting is increased/decreased; with the AC on you can also feel cold air in the cabin – odd mix – from the demist vents. The AC was re-gassed 6 months ago and has been working since, including last weekend, the last time I used the can. I know it’s no indication of it fully working now. I guess the compressor may have failed, an old Series 2 I had did and the engine wouldn’t even turn over, but there’s no change (drop or hesitation) in the idle speed.
Diagnosis at the garage I guess.

S-Type.2.7D and the message is “Restricted Performance”. Basically limits revs & speed in each gear.

One of the few things the ELm shows is water temp at 85oC.

I know I should have gone for more cylinders and a supercharger.

Yes, if buying new I’d buy one of the new 60mpg petrol engines. I needed a cheaper 5-6yo car as a stop gap though. [/quote]

Nope, not new as they stopped making them over 7 years ago and definitely nowhere near 60mpg. Talking about an S-Type R (V8 400+ horses), whereas I bought a V6 2.7D on a whim without thinking too much about it. Lovely car, roof racks for the bike but low 30’s from a diesel after a MK3 Mondeo TDDI and close to 50 bit of a shock.

I’ve not noticed mine entering the regen cycle but if you add in the Webasto auxiliary heater kicking in during this cold snap the between fill average is now in the very low 30’s.

I know I should have gone for more cylinders and a supercharger.

The Avon’s seem pretty good tyres, my daughter has the ZT5’s on here Pug and my wife the ZV5’s on here Astra. Grip, wear, noise etc. all seem good so far. I was very close to ordering a set of ZZ5 for my Jag but was offered a couldn’t be refused deal on some F1’s. However these are wearing very quickly so will be looking again at the ZZ5’s quite soon.

Current WRC cars run 1.6 turbo 4 cylinder engines with 33mm restrictors producing around 320-350BHP. Their speed comes from the traction they can generate – suspension, transmissions and especially tyres have come a very long way since group B – so do not look as spectacular as are they are flatter and more stable in the corners, which is where the stage times come from.

Watched some of the world rallycross this morning and in a demo run Block was quicker to the first corner in his Fiesta than Hamilton in his Merc. Different specs but highlights how quick these little cars are.

News: Lobe’s made a mistake http://blackflag.jalopnik.com/breaking-news-sebastien-loeb-makes-mistake-1681358117/

Loeb is exceptional, if he was in the VW then you’d expect it but not only is he beating the champ for the last two years he’s doing it in a different car.

However the driver/car to watch is Francois Delecour in the Tuthill 997, proper car, proper noise and a no hold barred driver. What’s not to like.

It’s not what you want to do but I agree with Ken. Get them their own car and insure it in their name with a few good named drivers, works out a whole lot cheaper in the long run. It’s what we did for our daughter – cheap small engine but looks for anything unfashionable. First years insurance will probably more than the car’s worth but it will decrease with NCB. Now with 5 years she pays about the same as me.

After having diesels for the past dozen or so years for doing a 100 mile a day round trip commute I aging bought a diesel again last year although I don’t do the commute anymore. More by accident than design and sometime I wish I’d gone for the petrol version with a couple of extra cylinders. But having notched up over 400 miles at the weekend its averaged moved up to 36 MPG so not too bad I guess. And to be honest I didn’t really notice the lack of speed compared to the more desirable petrol model.

For your mileage stick with a diesel. Oh and someone mentioned them not warming up, the auxiliary heater kicks in and solves that problem.

Took this along The Embarcadero, same plate on the back so guess it’s for real.

Hookup with Ceaser’s Cyclery[/url] in San Anselmo for bike rental, nice guys. They can provide the permit for riding Tamarcncho, which you can ride to from the shop through Fairfax. Iron Springs road will be a good warm up.
You’ll need to drive to China Camp or the guys in the shop will mark up a map with the good bits on Mt. Tam. Again Eldridge Grade to the top is a lung buster.

Done it twice this year while staying in SF as it’s not far north of the city, 101 across the GG bridge (no tolls at the moment) and get off for Larkspur Landing and west on St. Francis Drake.

I think muffin man sort of has it. You could be in either lane, she should have been in the left lane.

Also.

When taking the first exit to the left, unless signs or markings indicate otherwise

signal left and approach in the left-hand lane
keep to the left on the roundabout and continue signalling left to leave.

Call Turner direct 001-951-677-1711 and speak to Greg, he’ll put you right.

Your circumstances aren’t good for the battery. On average a car needs about 15 to 30 minutes running time just to replenish battery power after a start, and that’s without the extra loads this time of year puts on the system.

If the battery in over 4 years old I’d replace it – http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk Also at that age get the charging system and starter checked over, is the drive belt in good shape (squealing??) and earth straps.

Agree with stingmered get a scan, had the same thing – subacromial decompression – three small hole, one for the grinder, one for the hoover and one for the camera (got photos somewhere). Before the op couldn’t lift my arm above 45 degrees to my body or put any pressure through it and riding was very painful, a week or so after all back to normal. Magic.

Just seemed an odd comparison, although a D3 makes it a little clearer in thinking.
Done the bikes on top of 911 and Boxters. And in the same vain Chris Harris stuck his Orange in his FF and to help answer your question, Catchpole used his Evo Fast Fleet R26.R as bike transport as well, cage and all.
Are these the right tools for all your jobs, only you can decide that.

I’d worry more about your choice in comparing a small family day to day car in the E91 to a near track day toy in R26, before whether a bike will fit in either.

I remember sitting on the stairs with head in hands over the 15% plus rates being the Black Wednesday ERM debacle in 1992 and Lamont.
Can’t recall what they were in 89, I know we’d bought the year before and it not being such a thing.

Rates (bank base) in the 70’s were also up in that region

£329 for a major, £199 for a minor.

Jaguar Fixed Price Servicing

Makes a Jag main dealer cheaper than an indy.

Yep, same here and they were also cheaper for a gearbox oil change. Plus New XF as a courtesy car.

One way to check that is use a site like eurocarparts and fill in the details of your car and ones with different engines and see what size front discs it gives. Not fool proof but could help.

Yep not fool proof. With my reg number (correct car displayed) they list three brake disc diameters.

By coincidence really, the place was packed with fans both going to the game and local bars, my hotel was on 2nd just a couple of blocks from AT&T park. Friday I took a rental from the Bike Hut on pier 40 and it was a fight to get it back through the crowds down there.

I’ve got Baseball for Dummies, really should have read it beforehand; RBI, IP, ERA, MVP, Bullpen??????

Was in SF last weekend great atmosphere in the city, Saturday night better than Friday nigh for obvious reasons. Watched the games at a friends who tried to explain all that was going on, apart from trying to hit the ball and run around I couldn’t follow.

Without agreeing to it, haggle as if you intend to finance the car through them – ie ask about the finance packages they offer – only after a price is agreed mention you will pay outright. Dealers don’t like dealing in cash these days. As mentioned they can sell a car below their book value and make up the difference from the finance kickback whereas cashing up/bank charges cost them money.

You can get your own quote and then negotiate with your insurer. However there may be T&Cs that change the guarantees and terms of recompense when not using one of their approved repairers. Any amount of bodywork – you don’t know what hidden damage there is – no matter how small with original parts once you add in labour will probably write off a 2 grand car. % cost of work vs. value of car.

As regards a hire car, most policies these days do not automatically include a car if yours is written off or stolen. Extended cover is usually sold as an add-on option so do not assume you will be entitled to a car. This may be why the 3rd party is offering a package as it would be cheaper for them than you hiring a rental car and adding it to the total claim.

Had a Mondeo until earlier this year, the longest owned (6years) and furthest driven (120K+) car I’ve had, wear and tear items replaced but no big issues. Only got rid as I didn’t need the economy anymore.

Don’t get this Octavia thing. Had one as a hire car in Ireland last month, although it was ok it was nothing special. For a 1.6d (100hp) it soon ran out of puff with the typical harsh VW ride and I just could not get a comfortable driving positing in it.

in which world does a brake pipe cost 400 quid?

The Porsche world.

There’s one on the 911 (996 anyway) that will cost more that that if done by a dealer/specialist that runs up and over and around the back of the engine.

What’s been listed are common issues with this age of Porsche, did a lot of research earlier in the year when looking at “cheap” 996’s. For instance AC rads – one ether side at the front – are very vulnerable to incoming debris, coil packs are a consumable, clutches may not last and IMS bearings can be the death of the car.

If you are thinking of using as insurance evidence, check with your provider. Aviva apparently don’t care and not interested in seeing any footage whereas Swiftcover and Adrian Flux (https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/dash-cam-insurance/) offer some discount, so one would assume they would take as evidence in a claim also.

Overnight in Sedona, another must do sight with the red rocks. Also a bike friendly area. Then take the scenic route through the Slide Rock park to rejoin the 17 north to add to the tour.

It’s doable but will be a long day and an early start to get there with enough time to at least start to appreciate the sight. About a 4 hour drive each way up the 17 to Flagstaff then west on 40 (old 66) and right towards the Canyon. I stayed over night in Tusayan as I had a helicopter flight booked.
Have done Sedona (about 2/3’s the distance) and back in one day.

If it’s your only chance to get to see the Canyon, go for it. It is quite something to behold.

Live in Bedfordshire so not hilly really.

Race to the top of K2 then Hugh.

40mpg, get that you can get a refund – as long as it is from the date of the application rather than the next whole month as now – just that I “saved” money this year by buying cars with longer tax on them than the ones they replaced. Won’t be able to do that in future.
Does that mean you also have to arrange tax for any car purchased before you drive it away as they can’t be sold with VED paid up. Added admin you you not them then.

Knew that was coming but didn’t realise that you couldn’t pass on any outstanding (paid for) duty. Saved on 2 cars this year bought with longer expiration dates on the discs than the outgoing cars, both high bands as well.

It was 2007 (blue mud sweat and gears t shirt) the last time I did this and can’t remember what I rode, is it a 26 full sus or 29 HT type of ride?

Used these people last week http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk
About a third less than local motor factors with an extra 10% for downloading their app and delivered next day.

I was looking at A6 Avants a couple of weeks ago, didn’t get to drive any autos but the three manuals I drove (140bhp’s) all seemed painfully slow, especially from standing and in eb and flow traffic. Once up and running they all cruised fine.
The interiors were a very pleasant place to be and felt like they’d last and last.

Ended up with a Jag, the ZF box is great. It’s also used in the BMW and Mercs.

Good old Halfords do spacers in 1″ and 2″ flavors and long bolts. Ended up with a total of 4 inches to give just enough room for the tailgate to open with the rack tipped. Never did, but wouldn’t of fancied towing with it like that.

Not quite the same thing, it’s not really the car but the risk – ie a young inexperienced drive. I’ve just been checking quotes (Direct Line) for a potential car purchase, starting with my current MK3 Mondeo TD and then for an M3, an XK8 (both circ 2002) and a 996 911, I get the same premium for each.

For my daughter we’ve just done her renewal and it’s finally starting to get down to sensible levels, she’s now 22 and has 5 years NCD but still her original 1.0 106 Pug; £260 with Churchill. Get them their own policy in their name with as many low risk drivers (mum&dad) as soon as possible to build a history. But 25 is still a young drive to the insurance companies even if they can potentially have 8 year NCD!

Alfa’s are all about the engine, to look at, to listen to and ring out. And that engine would be the petrol. Why would you buy a diesel Alfa?
As mentioned the TS needs love and care but if done right and on time (or before) they’re fine. Suspension; tend to knock out the lower arms quite often but not too expensive – it’s just a Fiat under there. But because of that, Italian rot worm is hibernating in there somewhere so be vigilante and of the electrical Gremlins (tm 1970’s BL) – carry plenty of spare fuses.

Check the earthing. Had a similar issue with the Mondeo and intermittent non-starting, just a clicking sound. Pointed to the starter/solenoid, had it taken off and reconditioned and worked for a while but then still an intermittent problem. One time the Yellow Recovery Service came out and thought it was a charging issue – towed to garage – alternator off, again worked for a while but started again intermittently. Back to the garage a couple of times and the autoelectrician chasing the issue, he ran extra earth straps to the starter, battery and body; no problems since.