spectabilis, that is lovely, great colour

Cheers , it’s actually an old VW commercial vehicles colour.

Wouldn’t mind getting it a bit lower at the front but with about an inch clearance on the beam it’s a low as it can go without switching to a Type1 beam…..but I ain’t got the funds at the mo’

Mine would be…..my Type 3 fasty

Buy this
Ghost AMR Plus 7500
XT throughout,lightweight and versatile with 2position fox Talas fork and dropper post.

Msg me I might be able to do something with the price :wink:

What? get in your house…..

Seriously. Just opened the URL from the error image which took me to your Flickr page opened the photo in its own tab copied the URL and posted in the STW post editor using the IMG button..

Here you go woppit

Like it very nice 8)

Really nice ride only one off not by me though…my mate on the retro FSR.

Nice n simple Cyrus 8dac Quad 11L

Unfortunately not stand mounted due to having a crawler….

Dekerf

http://www.dekerf.com/index.asp

renton – Member
Killwill paid £185.99 for his brake service and feels happy about that??

As he hasn’t gone into detail I’m thinking…
1 he’s talking bout a motorbike specifically a trike ie actually needing brakes balanced
or
2 maybe has due to a disability has a complicated one handed brake setup.

3 Too much disposable cash!
Or
4 yes extremely naive.

Sounds like a dodgy seal…
Open bin
Insert brakes
Buy a decent set
Enjoy

:mrgreen:

Search for Maxthon. There is a tablet specific HD version . I’ve found it handles a lot of scripts which other browsers fail at.

Or add a bash/guide ring.

I run a 40t plus chain device. Got removable spider cranks and shallow bolts.

Indeed :mrgreen:

Haha those what hifi reviews read like the bike radar C456 reviews……….. What is this piece of shite I’m riding…

Ive not had a go at removing a headset from the C456 yet but am aware of the issue with doing so. First thing I’d try would be a toggle bolt..

Thought there’d be a few more of these by now…

Frame – Raw C456
Brakes – Hope M4/X2
Fork – DT Swiss EXM 150
Gears – 1×9 w/guide..the way it should be
Wheels – Hope Pro II – DT Swiss EX 500

IMO these near field studio monitors a few are recommending may really not the best choice. They are designed for exactly that. Sitting close by and analysing recordings.
You will notice Adam also do a home range designed for home listening you will also notice that the price is significantly more say £2500 for an active set .there is a reason for this and it’s not just marketing…

I’ve experienced similar actives before in studio installations and in the builds in the workshop in my previous job in the broadcast industry. They generally had a harsh sound and listening out of the sweet spot sounded weird really.

Also depending on your layout cabling could be an issue in the home depending on what sources you want to connect especially if one also needs a screen connected.

I’m not getting this preference for active over passive speaker thing at all ok maybe they could be more convenient but essentially both are speakers driven by amps.. How does having the amp in the same box as the speaker make it better? Both components Amp and Speaker are still rated individually.
If anything I’d have thought keeping the transformers and electronics away from the speaker to be preferable.

Yes a true double crankset has a narrower Qfactor or tread than a tripple ring crank.

Do you know about the Antipodean prophet who absorbed the ten commandments?

His name was Oz-Moses

Mandarin Orange is the best. I don’t have any pics but I’m sure Mr Google has some.
If your interested I can get you any custom colour at no extra cost… Email me.

Got a few sets in the workshop same problem bite point changes randomly really weird not sure what it is though so no real help, except it’s most likely a common prob. So contact SRAM see what they say.

Yep mine . depending on your budget .

linky

DT EXM 150 Solid n just effing awesome

Ghost HTX Actinum 7200

Its work in motion aesthetically. I didn’t realise the rear mech outer is interrupted and I only ever run fully enclosed so its ziptied with innertube protection etc all the way along

I drilled mine out .

Labyrinth Agile ….

Doubt it’d cause a problem but the stinger would be rendered unnecessary by the clutch .
You could always just remove the roller if it adds any unwanted friction or noise .

Well if there’s one thing good that’s come of this thread… it’s that loyalty is still strong in this country!

Yes and that some people still appreciate craftsmanship ,serviceable equipment and decent customer service etc etc ….

Some people wouldn’t know quality if it shagged their mom ..lol

pussywillow – Member

funkrodent – Member
Just switched from Elixir 5s to 2nd hand Hope minis. Too soon to comment on overall quality, but certainly the power and modulation of the Hopes feels like a big improvement. Brakes were fitted by a guy I know who spends half the year as a mechanic for one of the world cup downhill teams. He won’t touch Shimano / Avid with a bargepole and advocates Hope all the way. I’ll happily admit to knowing jack all about most of this, but given his line of work and his experience, his opinion counts a hell of a lot for me.
Good to see that many of the people on the hope side come across as having a fair bit of mechanical knowledge and post detailed information on experiences and solutions to any setup issues .
Whereas the shimano camp ……..

+1 for that. Having trawled through 4 pages of this thread (and being an avowed neutral) I’d say that the Hope advocates are way more credible than the bashers…

So what your saying is that you have to have c-tech qualification as a bike mechanic to look after your hope brakes!
That’s not good is it!

NO just don’t blame the product for YOUR ineptitude.

If you can’t do it take it to your LBS thats what they’re there for..

hora – Member

Below with corresponding CRC codes:

HOPE Top Headset Cup Complete 2011 CUP 2 (1 1/8inch Integral/Zerostack)
269846

HOPE Bottom Headset Cup Complete 2011 CUP D (1.5inch Traditional to 1 1/8inch Stepdown)
269854

No No No don’t use the ugly stepdown!!
Use the HS136 and HOPE CUP: F : EC49/40 much neater :wink:

The HS136 collar makes your 1 1/8″ fork fit a standard 1.5″/taper headset
Follow the link below for detailed info

http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/documents/HOPEHEADSETS2011Web.pdf

Good to see that many of the people on the hope side come across as having a fair bit of mechanical knowledge and post detailed information on experiences and solutions to any setup issues .
Whereas the shimano camp …….. :roll:

Ok cool .
Nice n easy then .

weeksy – Member
Yeah but then they have no fluid in

^^^Dunno what this dudes onabout then .^^^

I’d stick them on your bike as they come – ie euro style, then do the hose switch ..its easier switching when mounted on the bike plus you’ll get the lines nice n straight that way.

Yeah but then they have no fluid in

What they don’t come pre-bled ?

how easy is it to swap the hoses round then ?

A piece of piss .
2mins and an 8mm spanner

The Hope centreing thing sounds like nonsense but it really does work, not sure why they’re so sensitive to it when no other brakes are, but it’s got to be exactly right or they don’t work properly. Not the end of the world, but a weird pain in the bum.

Really? shouldn’t ALL systems be centered like in the vid?
It certainly makes a difference to shimano systems i’ve worked on . Actually set up a pair just now.
Sure you can pull the lever in n nip up the bolts then go pull an endo in the car park . but setting up PROPERLY like in the vid makes a difference.

Tbh, even avids are a million times better!

I have six sets of OEM elixirs on new bikes in the shop right now , half of them randomly pull straight to the bar ! complete ****

@Dr .
My post wasn’t a direct response to yours.
But fair enough your choice, good luck with your avids :roll: have u got a bell fitted yet?? :lol:

Probably undoing the banjo bolt to alter angle and not re-tightening? can’t see what else it could be if its tight with washers in place they can’t leak .
I’ve used hopes for years C2’s early M4’s mono’s , evo’s new and s/hand never ever had a issue with any of them incl setting up or bleeding. I’ve even bodged them with random banjo bolts washers etc from other sources not a problem.

If you can’t bleed ,setup or maintain hydraulic brakes buy some cheap shimano then buy another set when they fail.