Ah, hang on… so you pay the fee to be able to take 50kg max, but you still have to pay excess baggage fees per kilo over 32kg. Except that bikes are exempt from excess baggage. 🙄

Each passenger is allowed a maximum hold baggage weight of 50 Kgs including any sports equipment, subject to available space. The maximum weight for any single piece of baggage is 32 kgs.
An additional non-refundable fee is charged per item per flight for the carriage of the sporting equipment as set out in the table below:
Currency Per flight (when pre-paid) Per flight (paid at the airport)
GBP 18.50 26.00
EUR 25.00 35.00
CHF 39.00 54.00
DKK 190.00 255.00
CSK 690.00 970.00
HUF 6,600.00 9,200.00
PLN 100.00 140.00
SKK 935.00 1,265.00
MAD 275.00 380.00

OK so 50kg, with 32kg max weight for a single piece of baggage (ie the bike). Seems fairly straight forward, until you read the very next paragraph:

Payment of the additional fee increases your checked-in hold baggage allowance (including additional item) to a maximum weight of 32kgs.
Where your total checked-in hold baggage weighs more than 32Kgs, normal excess baggage charges as set out above shall apply in addition to the above fee.

So now the max weight, including additional you paid for is 32kg, eh??

My 2.1 Exception High Rollers leaked air and sealant through the side walls for a few weeks. Just keep sloshing it around and you should be fine in the end. I didn't use the rim strip with an Arch rim. I have since switched to Stan's sealant from the JRA stuff and it seems to seal much more quickly, both punctures and when installing, bigger lumps in it. I also switched from the exception HR's when I ripped both in one go. Weak sidewalls indeed, as mentioned above. Currently using Kenda Nevegal non-UST with the side wall shield and no problems. Considering Small Block 8 with the SWS for trail centres.

PS: Vrapan, you riding with OTT again soon?

Looks like the Arch is a narrower version of the Flows hence the weight difference: link to Stan's cross-section images

Edit: they're not as deep either, oh well!

That's a lot of colour!

LOL

They'd have been ideal at Afan the other week plus we're moving somewhere warm soon 😉

Lots of bling colours going on there, keep 'em coming…..

I've even got a pot of threadlock handy, thanks for the tip

Yeah, I did have some washers with my old (thinner) chainring…..why haven't I tried that, or did I? Maybe I'll have another go….

Ah, the law of sod!

Except that the Q/R rod is a relatively small diameter. So unless the Q/R actually slips (which I don't think they do, when closed correctly) I thought the reason it possibly isn't as rigid as a bolt must be that it stretches (elastic deformation) when loaded up. Thus, allowing the dropouts to move independently. Assuming this isn't all a placebo, as I've never had the opportunity to try a bolt though or similar, let alone do a back to back comparison.

Hassle? 1st time everytime here and I've tried: Vapours, High Rollers, Mountain Kings, Spesh LK, Mud X and Nevegals. In fact been tubeless for 2-3 years and never used UST.

I swear by RaceFace Rally FR Knee/Shin combo. Bulky to carry, but offer the best all round protection. Especially recommended on rocky terrain. They've saved my knees a number of times!

+1
I wear mine on every ride, just like my helmet. I don't even notice them and it didn't take long for my pals to forget about them, especially after one showed us his patella last summer (he still can't ride and walks with a limp, even after 6 operations).

The SWS version of the Nevegal could be the best of both if sidewall cuts are an issue….

Why is the fact it's a cartridge bearing hub got to do with anything?! Every bolt through rear hub I've owned has a solid uninterrupted internal 'axle' which means the bearings have no contact with the fixing axle

Exactly, have you read the other posts either? You may have missed it but some keep referring to cup & cone type hubs or the bolt contacting bearings!

IT'S A CARTRIDGE BEARING HUB 🙄

A 10mm quick release could be a better option than a bolt

My Kyle Straits have started to rub behind the knee. I saw some very similar Fox ones in a mag recently – they had the whole area behind the knee cut away which seems like a good idea. Can't remember the name though.

Keep an eye on your bikes though, even if they're locked in a vehicle…..

Maybe it's where you ride. I've cut both front & rear 2.1 High Rollers within metres of each other on the final decent of the Penhydd trail (well known for it according to the bike shop at the centre). Have also cut a sidewall in a Mud-X on some flint in the Chilterns. On both occasions the cuts were too much for the sealant but I carried on with tubes fitted. Maybe I was unlucky and they are both pretty lightweight tyres with thin sidewalls….. If you're going for Kenda non-UST anyway the SWS makes sense though. Convinced it helps with the initial seal as well.

Not a Crossmark, but 2.1 High Rollers were fine for me on a converted 717, until the sidewalls got cuts in them at Afan!

I run Kenda's with the SWS side wall shield now and no cuts since. Sidewall strength does become a bit more of an issue with non-UST tubeless as the sealant struggles to seal sidewall cuts that normally a change of tube would solve.

If you go for non-UST Kenda's, get an SWS version. They have a tape added around the sidewall to reduce cuts (a real pain for tubeless, as the sealant struggles to re-seal sidewall cuts and can force you to fit a tube or scrap an otherwise good tyre). Nevegal SWS have worked fine for over a year on my Stan's rims without the weight penalty of UST or LUST (or any flat tyres in all that time).

I think I read about non-UST Kenda's being difficult to seal due to relatively porous sidewalls, but I've had no problems. I think the SWS strips helped here: when I first installed them air leaked (a tiny bit) around the edges of the strip but not through it. You can still find Nevegals etc with SWS online.

You can spec 355's without the v-brake surface

Does anyone know if Hope have plans to swap to the 355 replacement, the Crest. I'll get around to emailing them eventually!

Horatio: which build do you have, 24 or 32 spokes?

Cheers 🙂

Even with the cup and cone washers that Avids use?

That's encouraging, anyone else?

Goldtec should be able to advise/sell you the correct bearings

Correct (according to the website anyway). Shame because my last purchase from wheelpro has been faultless: 3 years and no sign of that changing any time soon.

What about getting the wheel out, what's the technique (especially out on the trail)? Was thinking of a surly chain tug.

Have used a singulator and a Forward Components EBB in the past.

Anyone know if these are any good:

Shimano Pro FRS 3D Forged Stem 2010 – 70mm
£25 on UKBikeStore.co.uk

ZTR Crest or Alpine.
Lighter than 717, 21mm internal width, tubless ready and if you believe the low height bead hook hype just plain better 🙂

Cheers 🙂
Never actually felt the need to clean the discs on a car or read the can of cleaner!

Disk brake cleaner from the local car spares place. Does the job and gets you high if used liberaly indoors.

Read that's a bad idea: car disc cleaner contains a rust inhibitor that stays on the disc after cleaning. This is quickly burned off with the pressure/heat of car pads but it's a bit different on a bike where it will take a lot longer to disappear and will impair braking.

I thought I read somewhere the innovations refils are smaller at the neck than standard, so only genuine ones fit the pump/chuck. Worth investigating before you blow (geddit) money at tyre inflators. They are a good souce of refills though, good prices and delivery time. Don't forget to factor in the delivery charge, over £4 last time I looked so bulk makes sense.

Truflo Micro CO2 is my recommended "pump" screws on to either inner tube valve type (without an adapter) for zero leakage. Much better than the push on one it replaced: always managed to loose half the CO2 when in a rush with cold hands. Plus it's tiny.

CG:

No, got fed up with removing seatpost to remove mudguard when seasons change so waterproof shorts/waterproof trousers all the way for me

😆

Most lame reason yet? The seasons change many times a year around your neck of the woods? 😉

To be fair though, seatposts are a bugger to remove and refit, those Q/R are a right pain or worse still what mtb'er has a 5mm Allen key about the place.

nickc:

I ride in the winter pretty much every weekend

😆

So sometimes you go for 2 weeks or more without a ride.
Is that supposed to be a lot of riding to substantiate your point? 😆

I hope they are long rides and the wet shorts chafe on your arse for a good 5hrs at least – proper manly 😉

Punctures are the reason I went tubeless 3 years ago. I used to have at least one per ride, sometimes more. Now I can count on one hand the number of tyre related mechanicals I've had in all that time. I ride 3 or 4 times a week, so that's a lot of trouble free miles. In fact I fail to see why anyone still uses inner tubes TBH. I've used a mix of standard and tubeless ready tyres with Stan's kits on standard rims, perfect.

Sorry to be pedantic, but you haven't understood my question:

The 16092 has the same P7 C bin emitter as the one I have already – I'm asking which of the D bins to get (if any).

For example:
22569
22567
22574

Anyone?

My solution:
Knee length Sealskinz with merino lining, winter boots upsized so room for thick socks and waterproof trousers or 3/4's that overlap the top of the Sealskinz when riding – if water can run in the top, you can't expect them to stay dry! Knee length socks are always a good start to keeping your feet warm, the less heat lost from the blood on the way to your foot the better.

To be honest I've worn wool socks and the Sealskinz with wool lining and I know which is warmer when full of water – the Sealskinz. It's the wet suit principle.