2.1 DTC SWS – sidewall shield version here, standard tyre run tubeless. No sealant leaks or sidewall cuts riding in the same places that have cut other tyres. Happy!

Thinking about it: I've never used the u-turn at a trail centre, so could be overkill for many.

Poploc is pretty redundant on my 5 too, don't really get out of the saddle other than downhill. But then I do use the lockout on the singlespeed (for climbs). Don't know much about the Nomad but sounds like a big bike, good climber?

U-turn is great on long climbs – sitting on the saddle nose for 45 mins isn't much fun!

I removed the detent balls and springs from underneath (out of necessity the night before a big ride) and found it a lot easier to use on the fly, so don't think I'll bother replacing them.

U-turn is handy for embarrassing your mates who've had to give up on a steep climb IME

😆

Love it!

BTW check my classified listing 😉

Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to post. 😉

No offence meant Johnners, hope you have a thicker skin than Cougar 🙂

You don't need to stick to Shimano either, rotors are rotors, as long as the diameter is the same, generally speaking. Cue someone to point out problems! You just change the calliper adapter if you want to change rotor diameter.
Only compatibility issue I can think of are rotors with riveted aluminium centres (eg Hope) can fowl pads on some callipers (eg Hayes). But irrelevent for you.

In this case, you might consider rotors from someone else, they can be cheaper and lighter than Shimano, eg: Superstar or Ashima Airotor from Chain Reaction Cycles.

I had the same issue as the OP regarding the non-drive side spacer.

I tried it with two spacers on the drive side and none on the other: the crank arms seem to be equi-distant from the chainstays so I don't see the need for the non-drive side spacer. It's been like that for a year or so now without issue. Plus there's no need to trim the granny mounts with this set up, if it's the more recent version (not sure when they changed the design).

Here an adapter that takes 6mm to 8mm, that's the kind of thing I'm after…

Thanks for the maths lesson. I was wrong about the pictured one, but it's not inconceivable to have a 5mm socket in one end of say a 10mm bar, with a 6mm hex sticking out the other end of the bar now is it. But I guess no-one makes one! Have a nice day.

It would have a wall thickness of <0.5mm, sounds unlikely to me.

No it wouldn't, it would look something like the one on this multi-tool (which I think is 5mm stepped down to 4mm, the description is unclear):

There are two versions of most Spesh TR tyres – Control and S-Works. Would be useful if comments included which one they refer to. The S-works (I've always assumed) are bound to be more fragile, being lighter weight than the Control versions. Certainly a buddy of mine trashed his S-works very easily and he is very easy on components (slow and careful).

Kenda Nevegal with SWS (Sidewall Shield)?

6 months and still going, compared to Maxxis HR exception series and Bontrager Mud X, both of which I have suffered sidewall cuts. Not too fast rolling though. They seem to have stopped making the Small Block 8 in SWS variety.

10/10 for missing the point, Boatman 😉

I mean turn the little knurled gold knob to full on, not the outer lever. Leave the outer floodgate lever fully open.

The gold knob is the floodgate adjuster
The outer knob is the compression (damping) adjuster

The floodgate adjuster sets the "blow-off" level i.e. how hard a hit get's the fork moving again when the compression damping is on full (locked out).

He's made it to two pages already!! Stop feeding him 🙄

http://www.carboncycles.cc have some at £12.50 and some at £32

see here

Can't vouch for them personally

Should people be allowed to specify Paypal gift? Er, they are selling their goods, they can specify what they like, doesn't mean anyone has to buy them. If it doesn't suit you, but others are willing to buy on those terms then tough. Maybe your question should have been: Paypal gift doesn't suit me, should everyone else be forced to do what I want?

Seems like too many people winging about the classifieds as if it's a service you are paying STW for and therefore have a right to dictate anything.

Chase the threads, so it can screw in further?

Not knee warmers but I have some Gore Windstopper arm warmers – great piece of kit: fleecy inside, Windstopper outside. I find my arms get cold before my body and it's usually the windchill, so these and a jersey, great. Mine are a few years old now, hope the new ones are as good. Also, have some Lusso knee warmers which are good too. Very long, almost convert shorts to tights and reasonable too.

From the link:

In the analysis I simply don't tell the computer to let anything buckle, so I can analyse a spoke with compression without worrying that it's really a spoke that started out with a tension and now has less tension

So the author admits the spokes are not in compression at any stage and that if they were they would buckle.

If the bottom spokes are in tension (as the author admits they always are) then they are pulling the hub in the same direction (roughly) as gravity. So the spokes above the hub must be maintaining equilibrium. Simple. Just because the bottom spokes may experience the biggest change in force, what does that prove? Only that the rim deflecting decreases the tension in the local spokes more than it increases it in the ones above.

The rim deflecting (I guess) is what causes straight pull spokes to un-hook. How would you "stand" on a straight pull spoke? It can push out from the hub or the rim so it can only work when in tension.

Exactly bigyinn

That link just proves someone else has not understood either – is that a peer reviewed piece or just web waffle?

I suspect his analysis has assumed the nipple is fixed to the rim in the direction compression would be, which of course it isn't.

Ask yourself this: how does the rim exert a compressive force on the nipple when it's just loose in a hole? To paraphrase someone above: must be strong rim tape in your wheels.

and if the spokes ever were in compression they'd just buckle anyway. Surprised none of the other engineers have mention this mode of failure yet.

I suggest looking at the London Eye if you still don't get that it's the spoke tension that hangs the hub from the rim above. The London Eye uses flexible steel cables, like giant gear cables, as the "spokes". Try claiming they are in compression 😆

Interestingly because the "rim" is off the ground and it's the hub that is supported, by the ground (unlike a wheel), in this case it is the lower "spokes" that support the "rim" buy stopping it falling away from the hub, i.e. becasue of the tension in the cables.

Hope that doesn't confuse. I find it helps me to get my head around a principle when I look at another example of it applied in a slightly different way.

I like my inbred so much the five barely gets a look in.

It's not a slot drop (vertical dropouts with a Forward Components EBB) but a friend has one and he's a big fan.

My maths makes the Duster horz TT around 580mm, so not so different after all 😳

oops 😳

Yes!
30mm is a big difference anyway, but if it's 555mm along the top tube then the horizontal length will be even less!

(the IO length of 585mm is horizontal)

The Duster has very different geometry to the IO though, so choose carefully!

For me, it would be the IO over the Duster (even though I'd like an EBB) as the top tube length seems similar to my Inbred, which I really rate.

STW Long termer (Virsa)[/url]

The HR's were a very skinny 2.1

If the 2.1 LUST Crossmarks are a good size then I could be tempted away from my Nevegals with SWS. The Sidewall Shield seems to have protected them well and it seals the tyre for tubeless. Nevegal SWS 2.1 is 640g, so the 2.1 LUST Crossmark is only a little more, might try it on the back.

I seem to search out any flints (there's a lot around here) or slate over in Wales 🙁

Go for the Crest:
if you bend 'em, re-build 'em stronger
if you don't bend 'em, then you picked the correct rim!
😉

High Roller front Ardent rear good combo

Surely they'd be better the other way around?

This place was fantastic when I stayed there: Bike Brechfa.

They also have links to other accomodation on their site, but I recommend Ivy and Carl: excellent hosts and mountain bikers so facilities were well tailored. Two pubs in the village (Llansawel, as mentioned above) and a short ride to the trails.

OK, seems to take 2 turns per 10mm and you can't do it when lock out.

I've used the U-turn on the fly, takes a few complete turns to get the 30mm change though – I'll go and count just now…..

Personally, whilst I sympathise entirely I think the title could apply to everyone who cycles on the road just as well as car drivers. My old man drummed it into me that you have to ride assuming the cars can't see you, which he had drummed into him on his motorbike CBT. Lost count of the near misses I've had in exactly the same circumstance. But they were near misses because I slowed down so that I could stop in time if they "didn't see me".

How many professional XC riders do you see rocking a SP bike? hmmm. SP translates to fun, hooligan bikes – like Orange produces. Nowt wrong with that but if you want genuine versatility look at something like a Trek EX or Whyte e120.

But isn't the EX a single pivot, all be it with a linkage to drive the shock? The axle path is still an arc around the main pivot. Just being a smart arse, I don't necessarily disagree with your comments.