Just ignore it, what’s the worst that could happen……….

But Nick, do you really use 22 front – 12 rear? I wouldn’t have thought so. In fact you probably don’t use the next couple of (lower) gears combined with the granny ring either. So if you look at the worst case combo that you do use, you might find when the time comes to replace the mech, 33 take up is fine. Just a thought. 🙂

130mm on mine and it’s great.

Nevegals are available in a “SWS” version: Side Wall Shield. Works well with a Stan’s tubeless conversion and has eliminated sidewall cuts for me (had been an issue previously). Haven’t tried any other version, but the sidewall protection stops the Stan’s fluid leaking. I’ve not noticed any issues with running 20psi front 30psi rear (2.35 & 2.1 Fr & 2.1Rr) regarding rolling over etc. suspect the tape stiffens them up. Where did I ride them: predominately Chiltern Hills – perpetually soft, so needed something to dig in & Afan trail centre, I’m not into changing tyres, so have to be all round performer. I’ve always managed to go quite fast enough to keep up/scare myself so haven’t been aware of any unwelcome rolling resistance. Would a better roller not be a compromise on bite from the knobs? Which (if you need that bite) is where the fun starts for a an all terain bike. I always seemed to find somewhere that I was glad of the bite, even in the “dry” in the UK. I like to push hard all the time and not mince over fun bits for a bit of extra speed over the easy bits. I like the idea if plenty of knobs to protect the carcass too. Mine always seem to get pretty cut up.

Maybe it’s because if the move to post mounts on the frame (ie the rear brake) that is starting to emerge? I know the listing has right lever with the options, but these are from Germany, where they would have the right lever for the rear brake?

Oops sorry, just been back to actually read it! I thought all post mounts are 6″ (160mm), i.e. with caliper bolted straight to the mountings it would suit a 160mm rotor. As you rightly say, the listing suggests there are different post mount sizes? Didn’t know that!

Rotor size is exactly correct; it’s just the metric sizes (140mm diameter etc.) expressed in inches. They are only nominally correct though, 5″ is not exactly 140mm, or vice versa (in fact 140 is more like 5.5″). Which I guess is what is causing the confusion. Don’t get hung up on the conversion between units, they’re just nominal sizes anyway. Think of them as two names for the same thing.

Rear
Caliper will bolt straight to the frame, no adapter needed.

Front
IIRC With the minis, to change disc size you had to un-bolt the two halves of the caliper and swap the half with the mounting bolts for a new caliper half to get the different mounting positions (then refill and bleed!). Think you are stuck with the Hope adapter to convert IS to post mount, but as you say that also comes with the +20mm issue. May have to swap the caliper half to a 160mm, to give 180mm when you add the Hope Post to IS adapter. It could be easier and no more expensive to buy a post mount brake from the classifieds online margins. I was completely underwelmed with my first disc brakes (Hope Minis), whereas Hayes 9, Avid Juicy, v cheap now and night and day difference in power compared to the original Minis.

If you were to slide the arm on further the safety tab would no longer align with the small hole in the axle. If the tab seats in the hole ok, that means the crank is in the correct position: handy bit of reassurance.

Hang on, ignore that, think I’m with you now. You mean you can see splines inside the non-drive arm without the pre-load cap fitted. Perfectly normal, both my bikes have been fine like that for a couple of years.

“splints” bloody phone!

Both arms should be snug up against the bearings, with no visible splints. Have you flipped the safety tab up on the non-drive side first so that the crank can slide all the way on?

Excellent, thanks for that and to everyone. Had a quick look at the servicing movies on you tube, cheered me up that the air seal is inside the stanchion so won’t be affected 🙂

Edit
Thanks to LoCo for cheering me up!

I toppled sideways on to some rocks this morning. Couple of deeper scratches, say 0.5mm deep and a handfull just enough to reveal silver beneath the “gold” (Rockshox), all on the air side. Been pretty successful in removing the burrs, so do I need to worry too much, as not on the damping side? I admit I know little of what the internals look like, but presumably the air is inside a cartridge? Bushings might wear more quickly, but otherwise left leg is the lesser of two evils?

Thinking I’ll still attempt something to try to stop the deeper ones getting worse/flaking.

Actually, it was 1500 grit he claimed is ok to slide up and down the stanchions. Anyone back this up?

dirtrag thread, see the last post

21 units per week for an adult male is the recommended limit. As said above, might be worth seeing how you compare to this.

Yes, mine is 2005 so very similar, if not identical in this area. A single ring could be fine, my concern is changing to/from the granny. Only have one BB spacer on the drive side (73mm BB) so not following you there? Maybe I could get away with adding a second one on the drive side?

Just had a look at the stickers on my rims (I have an Arch and a pair of Crests). Anyway, the Crest pressure recommendations only go up to 2.2, so that could the source of your bike shop’s assumption. Looking at the (narrower) Arch the pressure recommendations go up to 2.3″, so figure an assumption from that!

The internal dimension is only 1.6mm smaller than the Flow rim. I’ve had no issues with a 2.35″ Nevegal SWS (not UST) running tubeless. Kendas actually measure the stated size too, so you should be fine.

a whole 27g!

😆 😆 😆 😆 😆

Hang on – I was thinking gaps between numbers of teeth on the cassette. The ratio gaps are indeed different. Pretty marginal though, can you really feel that! You need to go to 2 decimal places to even see any real difference. At 1 d.p. the ratios look so close not only are the gaps the same but even six of the nine ratios are the same and the other three only 0.1 different anyway.

(I’m assuming 32T with 11-32 cassette and 34T with 11-34 as you were looking for 1:1)

No, the point is that if you want to run 1:1 with the middle ring then you need a cassette with big gaps in.

The point is more to do with the lower gears and the gaps between gears.

Traildog, I don’t follow this, are you 9-speed or 10? You must be 10-speed, because the gaps between the lowest five gears on 9-speed 11-32 & 11-34 XT cassettes are exactly the same, different ratios yes, but gaps are the same.

I’ve read of cnc’d 36T 9-speed sprockets, designed to be fitted on a freehub before you fit a standard cassette. You would have to loose the 11T though to fit it on, so only 12-36 or 13-36 (9-speed), depending on whether you use an 11-32 or 11-34 cassette (probably best with 11-34, due to smaller jump to 36T).

Perfect, thank you.
Happy New Year to all, it’s already new year’s day here!

Great resource, thank you. Of course the figures for the M510 (113mm) will be for a triple and I’m looking to go for a double set up. Would anyone recommend going for a longer axel to give a better chainline when in 36/11?

Haven’t tried them, but have a 160mm Ashima Airotor (85g) at the back of my five (and a 180mm at the front). Could be OK if you end up looking for an alternative. Have been fit and forget with sintered pads.

Kim is only a puppet for the military, his death would change little.

Try The North West Mountain Bike Centre for Hadley, I’m sure they told me they were the UK distributor when I bough my Hadley axle.

Goldtec 1/8th ring (£20 + P&P) and KMC S10 stainless steel 1/8th chain (£10 delivered from Planet X). Then leave it wet and muddy after a ride 🙂

I bought a small bottle of the red lube from SRAM that was recommended in my Rockshox manual. That was 3 years ago and the bottle still hasn’t run out, despite using it after every post ride wash and cycling the fork and reapplying each time until no more crud comes out from the seals. So personally I’d recommend not risking anything other than the manufacturers recommendation, no real saving to be had IMO.

Some I-beam saddles have holes on the underside for saddle bag attachment. My bel air has them, you then need the adapter from the saddle bag company. I think Topeak have an adapter, you can then fit any of their bags that normally use the rail clamp attachment, rather than the type that use straps that loop through the rails. The I-fly I-beam doesn’t have the holes though.

Do you need to drill the rims? My Crest rims are fine with just the Stan’s yellow tape and a separate Presta valve. No need for a rim strip or ghetto tube plus I have standard tyres fitted and ride fairly aggressively. You could cut the valve from an old Presta tube to save a bit too. Best if it has a removable core but not essential.

😳
I didn’t see Rudedog had kindly answered way back on post 5! Sleep deprevation is my excuse , I’m 11 hours ahead of GMT and was holding my 2 week old in the other hand. My last post doesn’t make much sense to me either. Think I meant dims don’t need to be like the Shimano adapter, which everyone else already knew because they actually read the thread properly!
Thanks everyone!

Just one thing: is that really the dims for a 180 rotor, Avid use 185mm no? Makes little difference I’m sure.

17.5″ Soul is 4.4 lbs according to Si, so at 5.5 lbs the 18″ Sirius is quite a large percentage heavier.

Not convinced dims need to be the same, see here:
SRAM adapter

Sorry, I would post a pic if I knew how to on this phone!
Thanks

Edit: I should have posted a pic to start with, so that people knew what I’m on about! C’est la vie!

Mama: think we’re at cross purposes, I’m sure the Shimano adapter works with all kinds of caliper/fork combos. I just meant they have achieved the same thing in a different way from the type of adapter I have I’m mind.

Noted, thanks. Fork is a 2011 Revelation Maxle.

Ah, I think the Shimano ones are a bit different from the ones I had in mind. The Ashima, Avid, Hayes, Sram etc on CRC all seem to have only one set of holes, ie bolt through from the caliper straight into the fork, so just a glorified spacer really. Thanks people.

Think I heard they pulse with certain brakes, Formula for example (something to do with a certain pad dimension/position) but I have used mine with Hayes 9 and Avid Elixirs for 6 months: so far no reason to notice them (a good thing). I haven’t dragged them down any mountains, but they have dealt with Afan no problem. 180 front, 160 rear. I’ve only used sintered pads anyway, but I think that’s one restriction Ashima make.

FYI, Ashima used to recommend fitting them the opposite way around to most rotors, but have since changed their recommendation to as per normal. I think there is info on their website that explains the story behind this (if you’re interested/bored)

Contact adjuster unwinding? You are holding the hose fitting still while you wind the adjuster right? If you twist the hose with the adjuster then yes it will unwind. Stop the hose twisting and no problems in my experience.

I’ll have a look over on the archive pages. Don’t get me wrong I can totally see why people fit 36 series forks, would love a blast with one fitted. Bit overkill for me though, a 150mm fork probably is too!

Edit:
Orange say for the 2005
120mm min.
150mm max.