do you have a link to the £3 goatlink nick1962 please?

Guessing they have a different name and my searching skills are lacking.. as all I can find is the Lindarets ones at over £20..

EDIT: and now I’ve posted this I’ve just found them.. :roll: Looks like its the roadlink though rather than the goat..

the cryptically titled..

https://www.co2cartridges.co.uk/%5B/url%5D

is about the best place ive found.. :)

i looked into these a while back to give me a bit more width when using the weeride bike seat with my daughter..

the specialized ones where impossible to find as like Legend says i think they started snapping..

I think i eventually did manage to find an engineering firm somewhere.. (possibly in the US) that still made them.. but they werent cheap!

if anyone else digs up this thread looking for compatibility answers..

I have been running the opposite.. M785 levers with an M8000 caliper for a few months now with no issues :)

Darn.. cant believed i missed these.. :(

If anyone bought some of the TI version and has changed their mind… id definitely be interested… 8)

yep.. I’m not sure how the vetting process would work though.. It’s a tricky one to do as for a lot of people it could be there first ever event..

Coming up behind someone quickly and shouting rider in the slower class is all well and good but they’re probably riding on their ragged edge on terrain they might otherwise have got off and walked on on a normal ride.. They will be trying to let you pass on the whole.. It just might not be as obvious to them where to let you pass.. Or where they can safely slow down or stop to,let you pass..

Patience and a make sure everyone is having fun and is ok should be the mantra if you are doing the sport class..

awesome trails and weekend..

Did the sport in Sunday and all was going well until some impatient idiot slammed into the side of me on stage two in a skinny bit of the trail with no obvious passing place..

Nearly snapped my.thumb off in the resulting crash and then couldn’t hold on or brake properly for the rest of the stages..

There seemed to be a lot more I didn’t get into Saturday and I’m fast so I’m coming through regardless type riders in the sport category this year.. It’s the fun class.. Wind yer neck in a bit and be patient ay!

That said 99.9% of people either moved out of the way in a safe place or where patient and sat behind you until it was Safe to pass..

The events got and is getting more and more popular every year.. And it needs to keep its all inclusive skill levels mantra as that’s what sets it apart and makes it so awesome to ride for me..

Maybe the stages could do with a few signposted wider passing areas.. Or double line choices to.make it easier and safer for people to pass each other..

Can’t wait for next year!

Anybody there yet able to post a picture of this years route? :D

wondering where they have managed to fit in the extra stage this year..

and how is the campsite underfoot?

Vancouver – Sunshine Coast..

We just went with Air Transat to Vancouver.. a budget airline so a bit more cramped and basic than BA but i’d use them again..

its £20 per flight paid at check in for bikes.. and upto 32kg..

I had my bike.. backpack full of clothes / bike shoes and a few essential tools in there and i weighed it at 30KG.. not sure id be able to get down to 24 with just the bike!

they couldnt weight it at either gatwick or vancouver as it didnt fit on their scales.. and both times they just entered the weight of 30KG that i told them..

we have a specialized Small fry as well..

the adjustable headband has fitted her since she was about 18 months but the outer shell was a bit too big at that age really.. a problem you’ll find with most kids helmets at that age i think..

The smallest models most companies seem to make are designed for kids who will be old to enough to ride the bike themselves rather than go in weerides or similar..

I wonder what the wall thickness’s are on the 30.9 posts.. could you machine the outside of the post down to fit into frame instead…?
id be running all of the post inside the frame though if i did that!

a friend of mine machined a 31.6 dropper post down to just above 30.9 (took off just enough so the whole post was a very good snug fit) to fit his bike and has been using if for a year or so now without issue..

the difference here though is that the 31.6 and 30.9 posts use the same ‘internals’ with just a different sized lower section so there was probably material there to spare in his case..

have a look here..

Peter Verdone – Lev Rebuild[/url]

and here..

MTBR Lev rebuild thread

but be aware it really is a pain to do… id try changing the oil first to something much thinner and see if that solves the problem..

if you dismantle the post..

in the bottom where the shaft enters the air section of the oil pressure stick… there is a tiny little hole that you can insert a needle in to pressurise it..

some of them apparently dont have this hole at all though.. so cant be re-pressurised at all!

the hole in mine was about 1mm and no needles would fit and stay air tight.. so i had to use a micro drill bit and make it 1.2mm..

theres an o-ring inside that blocks off the other end to ‘seal’ it.. but it wouldnt seal on mine no matter what size o-ring i tried..

so my bodge was to put a bit of PU sealant under the o-ring.. put the post back together.. inflate quickly.. leave the needle in for a bit.. take it out.. and the air pressure then forced some sealant into the hole and blocked it..

it will mean i might not be able to pressurise it again.. but its working for now and holds air..

some lev 27.2’s are very slow at returning.. its a fairly common fault with them even from new..

They can be re-pressurised.. but it is a MASSIVE pain in the backside to do.. (ive just managed it after about 3 weeks of faffing about.. and even that was somewhat of a bodge)

Its so much of a pain to do with any sort of reliability.. that the guy who services levs at south coast suspension doesn’t do them anymore, and just replaces the whole oil cartridge..

It is also possible to replace the oil in 27.2 Levs without de-pressurising the air side.. so you could replace it with something really thin.. i used redline 2.5W which would speed the post up..

but again.. its a bit of a pain to do even that..

Or you could just get a new oil pressure stick for the LEV from South Coast.. theyre about £80 i think..

gravity dropper make a 30.0 post that doesn’t need a shim.. (I think they’re the only manufacturer that do..)

But you will need to order it from the usa..

And It’s not exactly cheap and you’ll likely get stung by customs charges too..

I’d go 27.2 and a shim..

Putting a smaller, plastic bowl inside the kitchen sink. No one has ever given me a legitimate reason for this. All you’ve got is another greasy bowl that needs cleaning.

they’re also used to reduce the amount of water needed to wash up and still get a good depth of water to wash things in..

and theyre handy for filling with water and taking outside to wash your bike… ;)

regularily cleaned and lightly greased (VERY easy to do with no tools..!) DT Swiss 350/240 are my faves for quiet running.. (though not UK..)

20T doval ovals available here… 8)

id quite like to try one with an Eagle cassette.. :twisted:

Had 22-44 setup once and it could climb walls! (slghtly spinny though.. :lol: )

EBay link

air is 78% nitrogen..

In theory the shock will be a bit more sensitive to temperature changes.. And there could be moisture in there too so an increased risk of corrosion.. performance wise there wont be a massive amount in it.. and if you keep an eye on it it shouldn’t cause any problems corrosion wise..

I’ve done a few fox.shocks and it’s not that hard if you are an ok mechanic…

You need a few tools though.. And finding out ifp depths and pressures can be tricky sometimes as you say fox have been a bit tight lipped about it..

High pressure shock pump.. 400psi+
Hypodermic needle adapter.. (I got a racetech one from the USA..)
Allen key with a slot cut in it..
Some o ring cord to make new rubber pucks..

The Allen key with a slot cut in is to allow you to insert the needle through the Allen key and rubber puck.. Then you can tighten the ifp fill port cover with the needle in to reduce air loss when you pull the.needle out..

There are guides and advice out there but they take a bit of Google digging.. Mtbr is the best place..

Rockshox shocks as you say.. are much easier to work.on..

Edit.. found a picture that sort of shows the ifp pressuring..

anymore opinions on hope floating rotors with shimano xt brakes?

I’m in the market for some new rotors as well.. My avids G2’s (that I really like..) are getting close to needing to be replaced..

5ft 9.. 29inch leg..

I went for a small defy..

Medium felt too long for me..

Also.. For me.. Extra seatpost poking out.. Bit More flex.. Bit More comfort..

anything from the now closed and much missed Box Pizza in Leeds..
they where pizza artists!

a close second was a simple pepperoni in venice at a random cafe..

Had a pizza from Mod pizza for the first time last week.. their double crust was very good.. we need to investigate their pizzas More for a full verdict..

I’d ignore other people’s recommendations for gearing and.go for what feels right for you..

I got my first road bike last year..

Im utterly rubbish at going uphill.. So it’s now got an 11-34 10 speed cassette on (with shimano 9 speed mech) and 34/50 absolute black ovals..

I use all of the gears pretty much every ride.. 50-11 gets used the least.. And it’s not mega hilly around here but it works for me.. Wouldn’t mind a 36 rear sprocket sometimes too..

I’ve had loads of different dremels.. They’ve all died eventually and the real dremel models lasted / worked no better.. One even went bang when it overheated through prolonged use..

Currently have a draper..

Doesn’t have the lower speed settings of other models

But seems to be more robust and has lasted longer than anything else I have had..

For the cutting discs / bits etc I always use genuine dremel.. They cost a little bit more but are much much better than any other cheaper makes.

The goatlink is generally used in 2 situations..

The 10 speed goatlink can help make 10 speed shimano Mechs work a bit nicer with rear cassettes larger than 36T, without needing excessive B-Screw (Excessive b-screw can hinder shifting in the lower cogs)
The Rad Cage from on-up does a similar thing..

The 11 speed goatlink is used with a Shimano Mech and SRAM cassette and can help the shifting around the 10T cog on the SRAM cassette..
(shimano mechs are designed around a smallest cog of 11T)

They’re not 100% essential in either case though, and just tweak the shifting so it all plays a bit more nicely..
On some bikes that tweak can make the difference of it all working properly or not.

Fitted a one-up 44 from new on mine as I wanted the extra range..

Shifts fine.. but you can feel the jump in ratios a bit more..

It Took ages to fit fully on though as the prongs were quite tight.. tap tap.. turn.. tap tap turn.. and repeat… and repeat..

am using an XT Mech with a goatlink.

please tell me that Lego death star has a kitchen.. ;)

forgot the URL..

https://www.alpkit.com/products/boson

runs for 3 hours on full..!

now you mention it.. i forgot i use a wahoo tickr HR monitor as well..!

I also found a big improvement using a USB extension..

the USB ANT+ sits blutacked under my desk about a foot away from the PC

no..

my 2 year old daughter loves the stuff!

she is a bit odd though foodwise.. she’d much rather have a piece of broccoli than anything sweet like chocolate!

I have managed to get mine working with two devices for one session only..

PC via ANT+ connected to sufferfest with ERG mode
phone via bluetooth to the Wahoo App

all the other times i have tried the turbo stops responding / sending Data to one of the inputs and then eventually both..

So have just ended up using the PC now and don’t bother with my phone anymore.

I do also run a Wahoo bluetooth/ant+ Cadence sensor (the accelerometer version that sticks soley to your crank arm) which could potentially be causing headaches..!

With my old ‘dumb’ turbo though.. i was able to get the wahoo speed sensor and wahoo cadence sensor to connect to both my phone (bluetooth) and PC (ANT+) With zero issues!

mine is an utter nightmare to connect sometimes..

I have a new wheel for the turbo.. so was trying to calibrate via bluetooth from the phone app Last night…

The Tacx seems to not like there being more than one thing near it that it can connect to..

the PC was on with the ANT+ dongle nearby.. switched that off.. restarted my phone.. restarted the trainer and it connected to the calibration app eventually!

turn everything off within a 1000 mile radius that might have anything resembling bluetooth and give it another try..

updating the firmware just after i got it seemed to reduce the issue.. (when I eventually managed to get it to update properly..!) but its still an utter nightmare sometimes!

6mm of spacers/washers where teh cable mounts, on a Shimano 10 speed mech, makes it work absolutely perfectly on a SRAM 9 speed shifter. I’ve heard it can be done with all shimano but I’ve no idea how.

I think there was another bodge where you drilled a small hole in the cable pull arm of the mech.. and passed the cable through it then clamped it up at the opposite side..?
(but it only really worked with the plate type deore / slx / zee mechs though i think..) ?

EDIT: found it..!

http://bb.nsmb.com/showthread.php?t=153122

Cablepull expectation aside, a 10sp clutch mech has no idea how many gears it is allowed to run so long as the chain isn’t too big for the cage and pulleys. The shifter is the important bit as it measures the cable and gives you the click stops.

thats true in a sense vincienup

but the leverage ratio on the mech itself changed between 9 and 10 speed..

7,8,9 mechs are all the same leverage ratio on the mech itself.. so they’re interchangeable

the 10 speed mountain bike mech is a different ratio.. so wont work..

ie.. 1mm of cable pulled moves the mech across sideways X mm with 7/8/9
the same 1mm of cable pull will move the mech a different amount on a 10 speed mech.

9 speed clutch mechs don’t exist..

yes.. you can get it to work with a bodge.. but you will need a SRAM 9 speed shifter and a shimano 10 speed mech.. and some spacers where the cable clamps to the mech.. (plenty of info if you google it..)

It’s much easier just to go 10 speed throughout if you want a clutch mech as shimano changed the cable pull and leverage ratios when they went to 10 speed…

Also didn’t know there was a strava group!

Just joined and added a few people around Leeds (originally from Doncaster) for a bit of insight and inspiration…

I fitted a one up 44t new when I got my cassette as I wanted more range..

It’s reasonably easy to do if you are patient.. It just took a while to do..

Follow the instructions on one ups site, take your time and just keep tapping around each pin and it eventually goes on nicely!

Got the Missus a single red rose delivered to her work.. 8)

I wont be getting anything today.. other than maybe a card later..

Im sure the steak she cooks me on march the 14th will be as amazing as ever though! :lol:

the Absolute black website used to say that a 32T oval ‘worked’ like a 31tT round chainring… a 34T Oval ‘worked’ like a 33T Round.. etc

I’m not sure when it changed.. but it now advises swapping like for like..