n+1 is a good measure. You could use d-1 as the ideal number, where d is the number of bikes that leads to divorce. If you have d bikes, then you have too many… possibly!

I’ve had the same problem with a carbon post stuck in an alloy frame, Simbob, and the following method worked for me:
Cut off the post an inch or so above the top of the seat tube. Using a chisel, create some longitudinal grooves running down the inside of the post, taking care not to cut right through the post and damage the inside of the seat tube. Using a combination of hammer, chisel and screwdriver, spit off layers of the carbon post, starting from the inside of the post, progressively working outwards. Because I was dealing with a long post, I needed a very long screwdriver towards the end and even used a length of steel pipe to shift some of the carbon shards towards the end. You can use pliers to pull out the long carbon shards and tip the rest of the debris out at the end.
I realise this sounds drastic, but as has been mentioned above, the oxide that forms between tube and post grips the seat post so tightly that you’ll never shift it mechanically, unless you catch it in the early stages. Even separating the final shards requires quite a bit of effort (and care!). Of course you sacrifice the seat post in this way, but that is a good thing as you will be able to replace it with a lovely Thomson post, which won’t get stuck (if greased) and will probably be lighter than the carbon one anyway!
I would suggest you do this job outside and/or use a mask, as the carbon dust is potentially nasty stuff to breathe in and just be patient and persevere and you’ll get there in the end, even though it may feel like mission impossible at times. It took me about an hour. A quick touch up of the inside of the seat tube with the correct size reamer will clear any tiny bits of adherent debris.

You’ll love it. They’re sweet frames and you’ve put some great kit on it.

It’s not an exercise in roadcraft piety. It’s about not being a tool.

‘Piety’ sounds rather derogative. If you don’t expect courtesy from other road users, then you won’t be disappointed/angry when you don’t receive it.
As far a ‘being a tool’, you are ascribing an attitude or reason for behaviour on the part of the other road user that may not be the case. Using this as the basis for anger towards that road user is just going to spoil everyone’s day.
If the OP was driving with regard to the available visibility, there needn’t be any danger to anyone.

You’re right, I didn’t read the original post very carefully. Same principle though: treat situation as you would with an oncoming vehicle.

Wrightyson, it may have been courteous for the cyclists to pull into single file, but they are taking up no more space than you are in your car while they are riding two abreast. Why not just treat them like anything else you wish to overtake, take your foot off the gas, wait and pass when safe. No-one needs to hate anyone else and I’ll bet it makes no difference to your journey time.

I can recommend taking a good look at Burls. His frames are completely bespoke, well-built and reasonably priced. I love mine!

http://www.burls.co.uk/reviews.php

The bung is only used to give the stem top cap tightening bolt something to pull against in order to take up play in the steering head bearings and the force to achieve this is small. Once this has been achieved, the stem bolts take the major tightening stresses in clamping the stem to the steerer. So long as your bung allows you to take up any play in the headset bearings, it will have done its job and won’t compromise the safety of your front end.

You could buy a bung for carbon stems such as the one listed on this page, if you don’t fancy the Hope Head Doctor:

http://www.ceeway.com/carbon%20forks.htm

Happy Christmas!

Can’t comment on the Orange, but have to say that I love my 146. Feels a bit ‘chopperish’ at first, but you soon get used to the slack front end. It’s at its best when you point it downhill, but it’s still pretty good at going up as well. Most reviewers have commented in it being ‘flexible’ but I don’t know what they’re talking about – they might be commenting on something that’s beyond the ‘average’ rider or they might just be copying each other – who knows(/cares)..? Some frame cracks have been reported, but mine has been OK. Stick a grippy front tyre on it – I use Schwalbe Hans Dampf Trailstar – and away you go. Great bike!

don’t understand – yes, the bolt stretches a fraction as you tighten it, but are you saying it stretches more with riding?

Because of the stretch, the bolt will loosen after initial tightening to below the original torque spec. By using the above technique, the bolt will remain at 45 N m and the cranks will not loosen subsequently.

My understanding is that the use of grease causes the crank to slide further onto the taper than designed, deforming the crank/axle interface on the softer crank to a degree.

I highly doubt you’re taking the bolt past it’s elastic limit

You’re right: you’re not taking it anywhere near the elastic limit, you’re accounting for stretch that takes place before the limit is reached.

No grease. Bolts under high torque stretch, so you can try the following technique: tighten the crank bolts to the recommended torque (e.g. 45 N m) with a torque wrench; slacken off and then re-tighten – you’ll find the wrench goes round a few more degrees than the first time; wait a short while and tighten again. Job done.

I’ve just replaced mine and the job doesn’t take long with the proper tools. You may end up damaging bearing seats and/or new bearings if you bodge it (guilty!). Katec have presses for the two smaller sizes on the Anthem and they make the job a breeze. I’ve seen a tool by RRP: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/tools/cycling-tools/bearing-cup-press/product/review-rapid-racer-products-bearing-press-extraction-tool-bpet-11-44844
The RRP tool works out more expensive, once you’ve factored in the adapters, but its cheaper than a damaged frame!

+1 for the Velocity rims. 23mm wide and there is the off-centre (A23oc) spoke option for the rear that increases wheel dish for strength. There is a non-machined rim option too, if you’re running discs. I’ve just had my winter bike wheels rebuilt with them, replacing Open Pros. They can be run tubeless too, so well worth a look, in my view.

If there’s no protruding spoke end on the inside or a piece of flint/glass/thorn embedded in the casing, you could be trapping the tube with the tyre bead when you’re installing it. Check that you’re not pinching it when you’re seating the tyre (especially if you’re using tyre levers) and check the bead/rim interface for trapped inner tube before inflation.

Roberts Columbus SL x2!

Had 146X since they came out and overall very impressed. I’ve had minor problems: E13 BB bearings didn’t last long and front bearings in the Easton Havens went too. Stock tyres are pretty good, but now replaced with Schwalbe Hans Dampf front and Nobby Nic rear and it feels much more secure when pointing downhill. No frame problems.
The bike is very impressive in that it is light, so climbs well, yet has the suspension travel to compliment my meagre skills and cowardice on the way down. It was a delight to take on Pass’portes du Soleil last year and I have no yearnings for anything else in a trail bike. Most reviews talk about flexible frames, but the testers must push the limits more than average riders, because it feels as if it’s on rails. BB height is low and pedals can contact on climbs, especially in ruts. 1×10 chainset is a good idea if you’re light and fit enough to push a 34×36 up steep climbs, otherwise a double would be a better idea, in my view. All in all, it’s a great bike.

Dampf Trailstar front with Nic 2.25 Pacestar rear on my Whyte 146, both Snakeskin and Tubeless Ready, running tubeless with Stan’s. Excellent combination: pretty fast rolling, puncture resistant and very confidence-inspiring. Can’t fault HD really except for clogging with sticky mud.

Campagnolo dual pivot brakes work superbly. They are easy to modulate and have all the power you need (the limiting factor being tyre grip, rather than brake power, unlike the Delta calipers that preceded them). They are not the lightest brakes around, but not especially heavy either: unless you’re a weight weenie this needn’t be a great concern. I have used the Record dual pivots since they came out in the 1990s and remain delighted with them. The finish is excellent, they look great and they are completely user serviceable. You’ll need levers with a release built-in to enable the tyre to clear the pads when removing the wheel as there’s none on the caliper.

Just a thought – I have Pro 3 wheels and tried following the video on the Hope site for servicing. I had pretty much your experience until I discovered that the caps on this model unscrew with an allen key inserted into each end. Your hub isn’t this type, is it?

There’s an ‘archive’ section on the Specialized website where you can look at pics and specs of older models.

The Giant Anthem had consistently good reviews and I’ve found mine to be superb, so spot on there. The Whyte 146, on the other hand, is usually presented as having a flexy frame, giving it unpredictable handling. I can only think that the reviewers push the limits much further than I do because I find mine excellent.
I guess the trick is to use the reviews as a starting point, find a bike that works for you, ignore subsequent comparisons with the latest and greatest and just get out and ride the thing!
Now, that braced-up 146 with the 34mm Fox forks and 11-speed cassette, hmmm…

I tried them to get over the problem of having the shifter pod positioned at too vertical an angle underneath the brake lever due to the underside bulk of the ‘flip-flop’ X2 master cylinder. The XTR matchmaker actually makes things worse! I got a better position with the original clamps and consequently consigned the matchmakers to the bottom of the toolbox. A rare duff product from Hope.

Yup. No problem.

Nicely done!

Jimmy Bo Horne – Spank. Disco-tastic!

My favourite trail centre. The Syfydrin has wide open spaces, fun singletrack and the inevitable fireroad climbs. There’s a good car park and cafe, too. Give it a try: you won’t be disappointed. Here’s a clip of the grin-tastic ‘Mark of Zorro’:
http://vimeo.com/22890574
(Cheers for vid, G!)

Great idea. KTF!

Thomson Elite in 50mm is a little gem… Got one on eBay recently.

Conti GP4000 25mm. Excellent grip, fast, comfortable and copes well with poor road surfaces.

I’ve used a Deuter, with an internal compartment for a laptop, for the past three years. It’s comfortable and nothing has broken, particularly zips and other fastenings. It has ‘airstripes’ to cut down sweatiness (up to a point!) and is reasonably water resistant, although I put anything I want to keep dry in plastic bags anyway. Overall, it’s a great product and I can’t envisage the need to ever replace it.

Roberts Road Classic from 1994, but only the Columbus SL steel of the frame survives from the original build. Mudguards (Salmon). 36 spokes & 25mm tyres for potholes. 22lb. Used all winter, except when icy. Sweet ride!

Wasn’t muddy at all last weekend; in fact sand was more of a ‘drag’. Do the Black in the morning, say – a few bomb holes and ‘The Beast’ which is fun, although some of the high frequency undulations are a pain; then the Red in the afternoon, which is better than I remember, with smoother surfaces and some nice bermed corners. Nothing fantastic, but enjoyable. You can stop for lunch at High Lodge if you fancy it.

My favourite seatpost. Here’s three!

How about a Marathon Navigator? It’s real military watch. Tells the time (quartz, so accurate timekeeper). Robust & minimalist (there is a date version). Very light, so won’t bounce around on your wrist. Properly luminous. Within your budget, too.

http://www.countycomm.com/navnodate.html