Thanks Ben I guess so.

I don’t think it was a particular high volume frame though and there do seem to be a fair number that have cracked.

I was told in the initial enquiry on the phone by the manufacturer its out of warranty but they haven’t lasted as expected. Shame that wasn’t an email!

Jamie :D

I have tried to avoid those tactics but perhaps I should amend the thread title here!

Oh well, looks like I need to email the MOD’s and see if they can amend my user name!!

do they work like Brant* if I mention their name 3 times they will appear?! *(Whom out of interest after a google I found had condemned forward facing seat clamp slots on ti frames with extended seat tubes as a satisfactory structural design!)

Jamie, I am kind of thinking that as well.

I suppose if they had given me the replacement like they would have had to under their own terms and conditions if I’d just used the frame a bit more I wouldn’t have worried about it. I last used it at Christmas for a 20 minute pootle on rollers as a bit of physio when it was still in warranty.

It sat in the garage until I swapped the bars in July and rode it around the block to check the position and it cracked! Sods law!

legend I will have to ask if they are prepared to do that. To be fair he was trying to be very diplomatic in describing the problem as I imagine the UK bike industry is a very small one!

Thanks Zilog and once again Ben.

It is a production frame Ben.

I have tried to act responsibly in getting this sorted out in a civilised manner and have spoken to the manufacture in question in a respectful way via initially a phone call and subsequently emails.

Perhaps with this latest information I should talk to them again.

They no longer produce the frame in question for what ever reason so I begrudgingly accepted their offer of a half price frame lower down in their range so I don’t know how that would affect my claim.

This was before I was given the evaluation of the damage by the independent frame maker mentioned.

I did try to give them the opportunity to look at the frame as it was only out of warranty by 4 months and it really hasn’t been used. I dawned on me after accepting their offer the 2nd hand shimano hollow tech bb and cassette fitted outlived the frame as mentioned on another thread!!

I suppose I was rather disappointed as when I spotted the crack I really wasn’t worried. I thought its shame for a nice frame to go but they’re good guys so this isn’t going to be a problem. I took photos of the seat post insertion, striped it there and then and boxed it up ready to send back for them to inspect at their request. Despite offering to pay the carriage to get it to them for their opinion they weren’t interested in seeing the frame. They also weren’t sounding too surprised it cracked either!

Thanks for that ben.

Has anyone any experience in opening a case of this type? I have no idea how you would go about it

daveh that’s the kind of thing except mine have neat rings where the wipers are and where the oil sat at the bottom, not the fetching leopard print!

chesterrockwell, definitely grey stock, uncut steerer but came in a plain box without the shock pump etc.

I know what the sensible thing to do is but it’s just a pain now I’ve dropped the bottoms and reduced the travel!

Perhaps I should have bought the cheap Marzocchi’s I was pondering over instead of these!

Shame, I really like my Revs on my other bike

Cheers guys, so the general concensus is its nothing to worry about?

Ah, Cheers I Ache I will take a look

danti

Out of interest why do you think there may be an issue with heli taping?

because the paint is very matt, I’m not sure how great it would look adhered to it unless there is a matt finish option heli tape maybe?

Ok thanks guys I’m going to send it down to Enigma to take a look at it properly, it must be worth the cost of a courier each way to decide if its scrap.

Thanks for the recommendations :-)

I think from memory on previous posts Vernon Barker might not be the most effective option?….

Enigma have a pretty good reputation don’t they?

Pimpmaster Jazz – Member

To be fair to them I do accept my frame was 4 months out of warranty though so they had every right to do nothing – which they didn’t.

So they did something?

I do want to be fair to Cotic and yes they have done something, an offer of a discount off of a new frame.

I suppose my main disappointment is with the frame itself. It was a lot of money and can honestly say it’s had very little use in the four years I have owned it, never crashed and never abused.

It’s now been out lived by the shimano hollow tech bottom bracket, chain, cassette and chainset that all went onto the frame from new. These were transferred over from the previous frame I had before , so not even new at the time of fitting and bar the chain which simply wasn’t long enough are all still going strong on my Turner.

I suppose I am disappointed for a few reasons. It sat in a box for a year prior to cracking (not Cotic’s fault I know).
6 months into ownership I queried the seat clamp needing excessive force to stop the post slipping and was advised it was normal on a Soda and to use carbon paste which I did. It’s now cracked on the seat tube slot which seems like a bit of a coincidence, and I thought being who they are they might want to have it back out of interest to have a look.

If I had decided to rebuild it last summer it would have cracked within warranty. If it had had the millage the average bike on here gets it would have cracked a lot sooner than that.

It’s been out lived by a hollow tech bottom bracket for goodness sake! Not chris king, not hope stainless steel but by a blooming shimano one with condom thick seals!

I know at the end of the day it’s out of warranty – end of, and I appreciate Cotic can only take my word for the amount of use its had. But with me knowing the amount and type of use and without a professional inspection I can only conclude I got a duff frame. It’s my fault for not using it more so it would have failed within the warranty period, such is life.

Sorry to the op and Cotic, I didn’t intend to turn this into a rant and I’d thought I’d laid this to rest in my mind!

If I’m honest I felt a little let down by Cotic which I was surprised about at the time going on their reputation. To be fair to them I do accept my frame was 4 months out of warranty though so they had every right to do nothing – which they didn’t.

My soda recently cracked.

I appreacite plenty are still going strong but I’ve fallen out of love with ti for bikes.

Bregante carbon Havens as new any good?

They were my first foray into wider bars and I’m now settled on Havocs as being the ones for me.

Bought my son a 14″ Ridgeback and his same age cousin got an Isla bike.

When I saw the Isla bike I really wish I’d paid the extra, there is no comparison. Much better components, better weight, and most importantly much better position for peddling.

Ones a toy, ones a proper bike. My son does very well on his Ridgeback but he would fly now on an Isla bike.

If you can afford it, order one and send it back if you don’t like the look of it, but I don’t think you would.

Clubber and I Ache thanks for the additional input its appreciated.

doncorleoni thanks for the recommendation and review that does look like a lot of trailer for the money!

takisawa2, good thinking about taking my bike to try it out, obvious really but I still hadn’t thought of it!

Oxymoron, I do also own a bolt up QR in my box of spare but what problems did you find towing with a full-sus?

Stoner, thanks for the swift reply that’s a useful bit of information.

It sounds like the 5 Spot would be ok then as from memory the dropout face is flat and fairly substantial.

Funny you mentioned the cowled dropout as I was thinking if I couldn’t hook one up to the Turner I could hitch one to my Cotic!

Any good?

I have no experience of these by the way, just a quick lunchtime nose on CRC!

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=73031

edit: depending on the size of your head how about this?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=70486

google “center parks mums net”, it comes straight up…..

Have you adjusted the position of your remote lately? Unbolt your remote from the bar and try it again.
I tweaked my controls and then couldn’t work out why my reverb was almost impossible to compress and extend. Checked the seat clamp, the air pressure and when that didn’t work bleed it. With the clamp in the bleed position it was all good so I though that’s great its sorted, returned the clamp to where it was and the same thing happened!! It seems the hose may have had a slightest twist because I rotated it just a few degrees from where it was and it worked perfectly, thought it certainly didn’t feel like there was any real twisting going on originally.

Ah! forgot the Avids have a slightly odd disc size! Cheers

If it’s discs as well the SLX work out quite a bit better then

Cheers mindmap, about £30 difference with Merlin at the moment so given the time I put up with the Avids for I might push the boat out for the XT’s!

If the back end won’t drop on its own with the shock out then something isn’t set correctly. Main pivot bolts are known to mushroom from being torqued to highly. That can cause excessive stiction. If that’s the case contact turner even if your not the first owner, there is a fair chance they will sort you out. Some times its just one pivot that’s a little too tight. With the shock out go round and loosen them one at a time to see if that’s the case. Honestly if its so stiff that you want to sell it something isnt set right. The bushings are never goingto be as slick as a new bearing unloaded, but its not something you should really notice in use and bushings are said to have other benifits. A custom shock and volume tune could also allow you to run lower pressures which is only going to help. Best bet is a bit of reasurch on the turner forum of mtb.com and contacting turner directly.

Yes turner website q & a’s. Might be in the horst link section but the process is the same

The bushings in dw 5 spot do have more stiction than bearings and can take forever to break in. Obviously check their all clean, check the torqs, the one for the main piviot has been lessened now by turner so check on their web site or contact them. You can tune the bushings with emery cloth, you should be able find details on the turner forum of mtb.com or failing that turner themselves will tell you how to do it if you ask. You can also buy allegedly slicker bushing made by push from tf tuned.

Sorry for the lack of details I’m typing this on my phone!

Foes. I used to really lust after their frames a few years back and logged on to the site a few weeks back just to see what they’re up to.
I’m sure they ride well but the look of the frames now.. 8O

I think Cotic quote their head angle with the fork sagged so a good degree or more steeper than static which Cove quote.

I think the Handjob is slightly slacker, I had one which I regret selling tbh. Currently have a Cotic which is also very nice

Sorry jimr80 just seen your reply.

As turnerguy said I meant talk to Turner directly. Greg is indeed the fellow you want. Not saying he will do something, but there’s a very good chance he will if thats the problem.

Email Turner first before you by one.

The was a problem with the torque setting being over stated on the main pivot resulting in the ends getting domed or something?

I mentioned mine was tight to them and they sent me a new pivot and bushings free of charge just in case it was damaged.

Loco, is it new seal time for me also?

out of curiosity wouldn’t a coil make the fork more linear in compression?

Ideally Id like it to use the first part of the travel to soak up the chatter and then firm up to push against

Ok, if I let all the air out of the forks, negative first then positive I can’t pull the fork out to extend it, some sort of vacuum being created. Even holding the negative valve in doesn’t help so I can’t try loco’s advice above. If the positive is 100 psi, I can only get to about 50 psi in the negative before the fork starts getting sucked into its travel?? Tried 2 shock pumps to check..

Ok thanks for the advice Loco, I’ll give it a whirl tonight when I’m home, allthough with my luck at them moment I may be phoning you to book them in yet!

hmmmm I don’t think they were extended when I first inflated them, positive first. The air pushed the fork out….

I don’t like blow due to sinus problems and blackjacks just get stuck in my teeth. Would just hookers be acceptable?

Timberland any good? Bit pricier but they have the sale on at the moment.

I picked up a pair of these to replace my last pair that I wore the sole out on but that took 4 years and the uppers are fine.

http://www.timberlandonline.co.uk/on/demandware.store/Sites-TBLGB-Site/default/Search-Show?cgid=sale_mens_footwear&pid=6225R&start=68&source=search&color=242

I’m not sure if the repair bills with the 2.5 T would be more than the 2.0 T say, as I would imagine they are essentially all the same parts.

Same with the N/A versions to some extent, the services costs seem to increase with maintaining all the diffs etc which I assume they all share.

I don’t think you really buy a Subaru because it’s a cheap car to run, but if you can swallow the costs they do seem fairly safe and hassle free (excluding the ragged to death not maintained Scooby WRX etc of course).

The cost of up changing to a newer more sensible car stops me from selling mine. It’s in good nick, it’s all fine and it’s still a nice comfy practical car so I put the difference to running it. Better the devil you know.

Final note don’t worry about finding one with the sat nav. It works fine but the maps are so out dated its quicker to ask directions! £400 for a new map DVD, don’t think so thanks buy a Tom Tom!

I’ve had the 2.5 XT for about 4 years. Not a bad car but the fuel economy is eye watering if you push it hard, well into the teens per gallon and its not got a big tank so even pootling to work (about 25 miles per day both ways) I’m filling up once a week. Nearly every annual service is a major one of sorts so £4/500, though to be fair in 50,000 miles its only need an oil pump under warranty and the brains replaced in the remote alarm gubbins for £300. Insurance is high too considering it’s not worth a lot.

Edit: to summarise I personally wouldn’t buy the 2.5 turbo again! The speed benefit over a normal soft roaders/estates is too much for most roads anyway to offset the fuel costs for me nowdays