Not really, 1 went 3×9 to 1×9 just using a 30t 104 BCD chainring, narrow wide chain and an 11-40 cassette.(standard long cage SLX rear mech)
You can get 11-46 9 spd cassetes now for cheap now but you might need a goatlink to clear the biggest sprocket depending on your derailleur hanger.

Chain doesn’t drop but as there’s no clutch in the rear mech the chain hits the chainstay a bit more especially on a hardtail so you will need a protector or just wind some old inner tuber around it.

Sorry it’s just been the comedy answer on all of the car and van threads recently 🙂

I like my c-class petrol estate, plenty around near 5K and can get 2 bikes in front wheels off easy enough unless they are XL’s

Unimog

How did it go Chuck?
The retaining compound was unable to fill the void on my deformed shell so I’ve gone full nuclear with Epoxy resin to fit them this time. My next move will be riding on my own with noise cancelling ear defenders!

I’ve been moaning about my Moco in my Pikes being harsh on repeated big hits and giving my hands hell but I’ve stumbled on a solution.

Hands felt a bit too close to my knees on techy climbs so raised the contact points with a bar with 1″ more rise.

Not only did it have desired affect on climbing position but downhill control was much better too – less neck fatigue from having to peer under helmet peak and the front was so much easier to lift and as my weight had more rearward bias the fork performed so much better with less of me to deal with.

We’re about equidistant between super besse and lioran so about 1 1/2 hours either one. Probably try lioran first.

How’s the riding at super besse @mrbotticelli

I’ve just ridden a set of clouts on 180 discs and they are easily as powerful as the M3 on 200. Better lever feel too.

Might split my M3 apart and see if I can see what the problem is being as there are spares.

Argentat (2hours from limoges) by the Dordogne for pretty Riverside location. Or Lioran ski resort near Aurillac (2.5 hours) . For car hire at Limoges Buggs are great, not always the cheapest but fantastic service and you don’t have to wait for an hour behind everyone else waiting at the other desks.

Let us know how you get on – I have a sacrificial one I could be tempted into ruiningmodding

Good decision, fingers crossed for you.

The cups are the part of the bottom bracket which the bearings sit in, the plastic housing. These are the parts which need a tight interference fit with the frame. As the bearings are sealed and sit within the plastic BB cups there is no need to apply grease. What you want to happen is for the plastic cups to be gripped tightly in the metal shell, by adding grease you’ve promoted rotation of the plastic cups within the frame.

The problem you now have is that the nylon cups have deformed already (as they are designed to do) when you installed them so removing them and reinstalling isn’t likely to improve matters, in fact it will probably make it worse.

I did the same as you the first time and ended up binning the BB. A new BB has not solved my creaking as the rotation of the cups in the frame has deformed the shell too much. You may be lucky but I expect you’ll end up going for one of the screw together inserts before you’re finished solving this.

It was never the bearings creaking it was the cups moving in the frame as the shell had deformed over time, you then added grease which allowed the new cups to move in the shell again.
DSWDWY

Fitted some of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/233583559279?chn=ps&var=533262430395&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=533262430395_233583559279&targetid=909953938039&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046587&campaignid=10199634949&mkgroupid=101938390717&rlsatarget=pla-909953938039&abcId=1145987&merchantid=231863261&gclid=CjwKCAjw1K75BRAEEiwAd41h1L5zQly2aY9au7SmLGKu2JnV59R6BgmKTkNvItG4LupTbWsRedGp5RoCybYQAvD_BwE Power is good (better than BB7’s I’ve had previously), feel is good, setup was easy. Just check your rear cable stop in case it introduces a sharp angle.

Choc block?

If you do get a response let us know as I’d be interested in getting a seal kit if they are available

@drewd – my M3’s did that despite bleeding over and over again. I suspect it’s the seals in the lever as there was no sign of any leakage at the caliper. I’d had them sat in a box for a while so warranty wasn’t really an option. It was easier and cheaper to buy another brake than bugger about with it.

Used? – https://photos.app.goo.gl/1BRPE1xom1RnzKRr8

Just been researching this for my Commencal. Unfortunately as there is an obstruction in the BB tunnel I can’t fit one of the screw to itself solutions.

My NDS bearing popped out very easily so I’m looking at gap filling bearing retainer type stuff for mine but all of the advice I’ve read/watched is to use loctite 609 or similar for assembly and never grease as grease will aid movement between cups and shell and it is this that causes the creak noise. The aim should be to ensure the cup and shell are fit together in such a way as movement is prevented.

As alloy is relatively soft it will deform over time and you will get tiny gaps between cups and shell this is where the retaining compound comes into play as it fills these voids with hard material to prevent movement.

The do not disassemble message in the pics above is in regard to separating the bearings from their nylon cups not removing the bearings and cups from the frame.

I’ve had m3’s power of OK but lever feels flimsy, reach adjuster creeps with use and bleeding is tricky with the reservoir being part of the lever body.

Bought some clouts which are m2 levers (reservoir on top) and lever feel is better than m3, they feel more robust. They have reach and bite adjust which is a bonus.

M2 is same lever as clout with the same caliper as m3. I may swap my m3 calipers onto the clout levers at some point as they are a bit lighter.

Pads are shimano type so easy to get hold of and they came with 2 new inserts and olives in the box.

I’ll raise your Ilkley BD postcode outrage with the Ribble Valley and BB – although no mention of an RV lockdown

Always found the voyager hypers to roll fast enough, why not get some more?

How’s the battery, I had a w10 install on a laptop which ran slowly, the battery didn’t hold enough charge to boot into windows and needed to be plugged in all of the time. New battery installed everything went back to normal.

Staveley 3 Passes

Drive to Staveley take him over Garburn, Nan Bield, Sadgill – should be tech enough

ASUS do some mini PC’s too

NHS protection and food standards protection voted out in trade Bill last night too

Murdoch doc on bbc2 now if you’re more interested in the real thing

The soapy water was the last thing I tried on my first attempt at tubeless, now I wouldn’t bother trying without it makes way more difference than you’d expect

Have YT employed the Chuck Norris PR team?

If it was my money it would be a 650b one of these: https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-hybrid-al/

Lock some cats in it for a week and lets see whether fags beats cat urine

Landowners have a duty to maintain their gates so that they are operable. If I find a gate that doesn’t have a working latch or at least a loop of rope that can be used to secure it and which doesn’t swing freely on it’s hinges it gets reported to the HA. If it still isn’t fixed next time I use it it doesn’t get closed.

There was one on the Pennine Bridleway near Earby that only had 1 hinge, didn’t clear the ground beneath it and the rope required you to lift the gate 8 inches to get it over the post. It got left open a few times after reporting it and hey presto nice shiny new gate with a working latch that opens freely.

I don’t understand how a HA or NP can spend money on resurfacing to improve access when most of the gates on a ROW will present more of an obstruction than the surface.

Lack of signage and poor access controls are the biggest limitation to access across the network for all users if you experience a poor gate report it it doesn’t cost the HA anything it’s the landowners responsibility to maintain their stock controls. (unless the HA installed it to restrict vehicular access.)

I’d personally prefer it if HA’s had the power to remove poor access controls if not repaired within 6 weeks of serving notice on the landowner.

You could probably hire a WP developer for £25k/yr ……

That sounds like they are taking the Michael unless there are some special circumstances. I can backup and update our woo commerce store and database in an hour or so max

Did it on my Orbea and no problems at all. I drilled 2 5mm holes next to each other then drilled again with a 5mm bit where they touched then filed it to create the oval.

Steps unlocker app allows you to change location. US gets you to 20mph. Not had an issue with mine in a year. £30 well spent.

@cookeaa I had one of those too as did my mate at the time. His got nicked from outside the newsagent we delivered for!

I had mine right through until 2000 when I flogged it to a house mate as I’d got myself a Zaskar.

If you like the R9T but think it’s overpriced go have a look at Guzzi Griso. Transverse twin, shaft drive, classic naked roadster looks. Plenty 1100’s around at less than £5k

You can buy sub-compacts from FSA direct: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/cranksets/road/omega-crankset