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The Grinder: Wolf Tooth pedals, DMR cranks, Ceramic Speed SLT bearings, USE bar, Madison bib-trouser, Leatt knee pads
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smiffFree Member
looks lighter than air.
remember to adjust the distance from cassette, mine was shifting a bit shit until i loosened that screw a bit yesterday. also remember to turn the clutch on when you ride… yay another switch, brilliant 🙄smiffFree Membermust be frustrating as hell. what i’ve heard is usually more luck finding a local policeman on street (if any left!) than going through official channels..
smiffFree Memberi think there is a formula, but i don’t know it is! all i know the right stem length seems to follow closely from head angle. slack ha, shorter stem, steeper HA, longer stem. when i change fork, or travel, or even headset lower cup – anything that changes HA, i always end up changing stem to make it feel right. this has happened on several bikes and forks now. you have a small amount of adjustment from bar tilt also, since changing grip position is effectively same thing. iow, for particular fork, there’s a particular stem that makes steering “right”. this unfortunately means little adjustment of frame fit possible.
bar width is mostly about comfort and fitting through trees though. again YMMV.smiffFree Memberi hope 10 spd doesn’t last much less, they also cost twice as much. but they’re thinner so common sense says they will indeed last less time (grammar is all wrong today, fewer, wear faster..?)
smiffFree Membersorry :/
i think you’re going to have to take some out for long rides. try some cheap ones like the Spoon (about £15 on sale from wiggle), or the on-one bignose (around £12.50 when i got mine, normally double that). expensive doesn’t always equal comfort, i find.. once you find a make you like, then you can spend more on leather/ti versions etc 🙂
Selle personally didn’t suit my bum…
or you can go to shop with one of those arse moulds and get a sit-bone width, which reduces the guess work a bit.
er was that more helpful?smiffFree Memberyes if that’s him modelling all those shirts, i wouldn’t be going around there asking for “tall boys”. hur hur.
smiffFree Memberwhere did she see your number? can’t she just give you an address? i’m not good at this underworld stuff.
smiffFree Memberhave heard from others that x0 and XX don’t have this problem, x9 and below apparently do.. either pay the extra or sell your rear mech and go Shimano (even cheapy Shimano Deore seems reliable).
smiffFree Memberan insultingly small amount of money. give him an extra kicking from us for selling it so cheap. explain that the fork alone costs £300. then punch him in the nuts.
smiffFree Membersorry i posted a 150mm bike.. maths error. well anyway 150-160 is similar class.. maybe add 1lb for changing a lightweight revelation for something burly 36mm?
smiffFree Memberi’d only go 1x on a lightwight hardtail where i’m happy to stand and mash. (i have 1×9 on a ht, 2×10 on FS). 9 v 10 is really irrelevant, main problem is I can’t have only a 36 or 38T chainring (what i want for flat and descending) and still sit & spin up the steep stuff on long rides. front mechs are a pain to set up but once you’ve done it they last forever and they mostly do as a top chain device.. i actually use an old front mech still on my 1×9 :p
smiffFree Membersomeone here just got a digital bathroom scales so here’s my first attempt at weighing a bike (really!).
El Guapo medium (155mm alright, suck it)
Revelation/Monarch
2 x 10 mostly SLX
Hope Flow, tubeless Advantage/Minion
No dropper post
some mud.
er.. no stickers or reflectors.about 13.3kg.. 29lbs?
How boringly normal! but suggests i could get to 27 or something if i really wanted to.. i’m a big believer in ride feel, suspension and tyres, being more important than weight on scales though.smiffFree Memberon the plus side, you no longer own a joplin 3 (i kid, ‘cos i own one..)
smiffFree Memberfrom the bikeradar comments
“oops forgot to mention if you join British cycling you get 10% off. all that for £900, cant go wrong!”
dunno if still valid.
http://www.boardmanbikes.com/mtb/fs_team.html
yeah cranks are unfortunate as you can’t put cheap shimano rings on it, but otherwise looks excellent.
smiffFree Memberdunno what your headtube size is, but here’s a Hope lower D in EG. was meaning to post anyway ‘cos i’d never seen this before. about as neat and low as you’ll get, not sure if you want a slightly steeper head angle like i’ve got though!
the black bit just above the silver crown race is a rubber seal.
same reason btw: straight steerer revs much cheaper from Merlin, and i’ve no worries about this failing. should i : 😳smiffFree Memberif this bothers you, Hope PicNMix (i use D) is a single piece, so no reducer shim/bush, was surprised about this when i got it. they are also well sealed and stainless bearing-ed.
edit: i.e. a smaller bearing, same size as upper, which some may see as worse!smiffFree Memberi know this isn’t what you want to hear but consider 2nd hand, classifieds etc to save money and get under £1000, maybe you can avoid finance that way?
also remember running costs.. 9 speed parts cost less than 10 speed (PC951 chains are £10 vs £20 for 10 speed for example) and brake pads (last longer on some brakes), stuff like that. if you ride lots. i always cobble together bits and just did an El Guapo for about £700 using mostly parts off old bike (£1000 if you include fork) and some new bits from germany, the end result rides no worse than all new and would probably cost over £2000 if bought whole. you’ve sold your old bike already but don’t forget 2nd hand.smiffFree Memberfirst ride on my EG today! 8)
cable routing was slightly hard (after much deliberation went for crossover above the shock so not rubbing on head tube) and front mech setup really hard for some reason, nothing to do with frame.anyway..
doesn’t feel heavier than my old 90mm travel bike, to lift or to ride.
doesn’t feel like a sofa/barge like a Spesh Pitch either.
two thumbs up so far 🙂couple of pedals strikes (already had 170mm cranks and thin pedals).
need to RTFM on Monarch cos the lever didn’t seem to change anything 😕
this bike immediately encourages you to do silly stuff haha, but, probably going to get me into accidents 😮
forgot to mention most important thing, sizing felt right, i’m a fairly long legged 5’10”, medium + 50mm stem wasn’t in danger of hitting knees on controls like i sometimes used to on medium Trek, getting off back of saddle still easy, lifting front easy.
smiffFree Memberdo you like a ribbed post, vorlich ❓
maybe you should look at a dropper, if you do a lot of dropping. 100kg doesn’t sound impossible.
smiffFree Memberah didn’t realise you’re supposed to pull and wait for tick to let go. i always just ripped them out.
right?btw cards are slightly cheaper (3.95) on ebay.
smiffFree Memberthought probably goes something like “ti is strong as steel and half the weight.. so we’ll build it like a steel bike and it’ll be nice and light”. except that doesn’t work. dunno IAMNAE.
also speculation for you cynic-al 🙂
smiffFree Memberweak paint was well known on these, (partly why i went for raw), and a few tool marks i couldn’t care less about.. but i expect headset/seattube/bb etc to be right sizes. for the price its still an amazing frame – weird the simplest tube on it would be wrong!
well done brant for being here and looking for users, and i’m sure they’re selling boatloads. now will have to add seattube size to my wishlist over on mtbr :/
if someone else with reverb would confirm its snug that might tell us something? like whether there’s a batch of oversize tubes. not sure if this one is reamed or just welded in at factory.
they got the headtube fit right now though! hope Pic n mix went in lovely. watch out lower D cup (ooh err) probably gives a steeper head angle, it goes right in. might post photo later.hmmm maybe could all EG owners here say what seatpost you have and if it rattles about or falls down under its own weight without clamp? i’m guessing on-one’s seatposts may be oversize 😉
edit: and when you bought the frame please.smiffFree Memberoh ffs i paid for thomson ‘cos i thought they’d be 100% right! time to order some calipers this is silly. don’t really want to return now headset, bb etc are nicely in. i assume On-One would warranty the frame if that area broke later anyway.
thanks, reverb may be what i get later not sure yet..
smiffFree Memberwell.. it seems like it’s going to hold the thomson seatpost, but that’s cranking down real hard on the little bitty clamp bolt on this:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8214
(it’s what i had lying around).to give an idea, i can get a wrap of clear tape around the thomson 30.9 and still stick it in the Guapo without it snagging. in engineering terms that’s pretty bad right?
didn’t someone else here say they kept returning frames and gave up on the EG because of this.. who was that and are you out there? 🙂
and Brant do you know of a problem with seattube size?
smiffFree Memberhah are those quotes real? i love our non-football sportspeople even more.
Slimon Cowell knows absolutely nothing about music and is proud of that, his programmes are just adverts for his ***** CDs and other tat.
edit: haha typo i’ll leave it.
smiffFree Memberany of you guys er… fitted seatposts to your EGs? i seem to have a tolerance problem on seattube.. thought it was just the shim i was using, but just had a thomson 30.9 post delivered.. still a bit lose. i think the clamp will grip it, but it’s not inspiring.. never had a bike where the post has some wiggle and just drops down unclamped. hmmm. are they all like this? it’s reamed? is it even intended? worried about stress to the clamp area and slippage.
btw, thomson do a 30.8, but not a 31.0 (or 31.x, i need to get digital calipers), which is probably what this bike needs. the thing is, this was just temporary until getting a dropper. any advice please brant?
smiffFree Memberholy retro angles batman.
looks a little rough in the finish.
any mags done tests?smiffFree Memberis cooper like copper?
maybe too late for you but:
http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a53683/flat-pedals-spike-red.html?lg=en&cr=GBP
germany saves only about a tenner this time..
btw how strong are these really thin pedals. the da bombs look pretty good for the price.
smiffFree Memberi prefer SRAM but just been through this, SRAM are not competitive for some reason in the mid-range where most of us are buying, esp. if you buy from german shops.. would take SLX and probably KMC chain.
smiffFree Memberas we’re all being so picky, and brant actually appears to give a s**t here instead of telling us all go f*** ***selves.. like most bike companies might 😉 – the rocker imho should be painted black or white (as it doesn’t match anyway). if i could have exactly what i wanted, like the kid in the chocolate factory, i’d have a painted rocker and white Monarch shock on my raw frame (and for the white frame i guess).
won’t that mark buff right out?smiffFree Memberaw i killed the thread? moar diy frames!
anyone tried to make components too.. mechs might be tricky, handlebars maybe not, but cranks doable?i have an engineer friend who talks about making his own forks with amazing tolerances.. not going to happen :/
smiffFree Memberoh right n/m, i’d only return for bad alignment (never heard of this on EG) or out of spec reaming etc (not a problem on v3). at the price this frame is i’m not picky about cosmetics, but yeah some close ups would be good brant. you’ve nothing to be embarrassed about with welds and such.
smiffFree Memberthere were a few nicks around the headtube, but nothing to worry about. i’d like to know about yours in case i missed anything! maybe pm me please?
smiffFree Memberyou weren’t expecting brushed? yeah, there was a one someone did themselves by stripping an orange, it looked really nice, and that’s not what you get. i personally like the “raw”.
the marin above, i do find a bit ugly, too much metal in there, but it’s nothing like the EG 🙂
smiffFree Memberhaha. i think it’s the nicest looking frame i’ve ever seen.. i’ve almost been happy just to look at it for 2 weeks 😉 why would you buy a bike you thought was ugly? not that it matters when you’re on it. hora.. just wondering, are you one of those who thinks only steel singlespeeds look good? 🙂 each to his own but i honestly can’t understand why that’s ugly.. i guess it’s a bit industrial or something? is it the combo of that linkage and shaped tubes that’s too much?
i can sort of see why it’s a statement.. esp. in Orange.
smiffFree Memberyeah geedub16, you didn’t have a yellow DHL truck in your drive did you? if so i’m jealous.
smiffFree Memberif in doubt, silver the way to go, will always look good, but they’re all beautiful (i may be biased here).
finally started building mine yesterday, black hope headset and xtr bb, about to start pulling apart my old bike for more bits, slightly :/
smiffFree Memberthis is awesome. i’d never have the confidence to ride my own frame though (or let anyone else for that matter). a couple of those are really nice looking. and some ^ are a bit mad max too 8)
smiffFree Memberhaha so you can have DPD, who may (allegedly) be fraudulent, or pay 2euro for DHL/PF, who are just inept.
shame DHL won’t go “all the way” any more.Sooo.. are shimano/madison going to do anything about the huge price difference in UK vs Germany?
edited to avoid any legal issues here 😯