yeah man, event material just doesn’t work for me, have tried several (wiggle were very good about returns), every time the material fails to bead and quickly soaks through after a few months of use, this is with extreme care to wash properly, also tried reproofing with grangers and nikwax, doesn’t work except for maybe half a ride afterwards. tried ironing, tried tumbledrying, tried not ironing, not tumbledrying, just line drying, don’t store damp.

tried washing the washing machine to remove traces of bio detergent. tied different non-bio detergents. i can only guess its something in my water (hard water)?

was going to give pertex shield a go, even though less breathable, i need a jacket that’s really waterproof sometimes, and these look small ball-able 🙂

the breathability of eVent was (and is) great, but they’re all now windproofs only! same with my waterproof shorts (Altura 3/4s), they’re a disaster, horribly chaffing pieces of rubbery plastic that wet through and won’t dry out.

can’t decide whether to spend more money on another expensive material (i call 60£+expensive) that may not work, or just get a cheap non-breathable for when it’s really wet and swap jackets :/

any thoughts on minimus vs photon for properly waterproof jacket? i’ve found eVent jackets to not work (just wets through after a month or two), never tried Pertex shield. god this sounds geeky.

built by aliens. ridden by weeds.

i’m guessing you can’t return it as “not fit for purpose” as was from outside UK, unless they accept that, so your only option is to learn how to sort all that yourself or pay an LBS to do it… those are all things you’d have to do sooner or later anyway and not expensive, apart from labour.
good warning about canyon setup being bad though.

you can buy seal kits for avid elixir for a few Euros. don’t know how easy they are to fit though as mine have never gone wrong in the 4 years i’ve been using one pair and 2 years for another..
Formulas, when i had them, had to go back to Italy for seal changes and i only used them for one year (pads and rotors wore down way too fast) 🙄

this can go here too i guess.
after a very wet ride Wednesday gave her a wash, came up sparkling 8) in the Thursday sun.

still think 26ers look the best, except very large sizes maybe.
credit to on-one & canon.

nice loco, but what’s up with those Renthal bars i keep seeing that go with nothing?

nice to see just about everyone has a massive stack of spacers on top of their stems these days, i thought mine looked odd until now. slam that stem right? 😮

you put a 5mm hex key in the end. offside, don’t undo drive side.

ebay. i forget size but somewhere around 15mm-18mm diameter unshrunk.

that’s like, your opinion man. i don’t think mine’s even pimp, just shiny. the thing with colour is, it looks great for a little bit, then you get bored of it. bit like girly posters when you’re a teenager. black/white/silver always looks “good” (unlike girly posters). some of these are just basic colour errors, like having everything slightly different shades of red, or mixing red+purple or red+orange. but he did ask for “pimp”, not “tasteful”. i’m wondering can it be pimp and classy at the same time? and do pimps even ride MTBs?

i have heatshrink tube on mine. for reals. the kind with glue on the inside. it’s even available in fancy colours if you’re that way inclined..

i recently solved a BB noise in a new way (to me). bb was not loose in frame. bearings were fine.
took the cranks off, thoroughly cleaned the splines on both the axle and LH crank (toothbrush and alcohol). took pinch bolts out and cleaned them too. greased again, and refitted, properly tightened. noise gone 🙂

i’d just like to point out the person above is not me 😯 i’d never post such an embarrassing photo 😀

Stevo210, i now know what pimp is.
(and fwiw, don’t want it!)

how about..

or even

last one taken from http://www.urlesque.com/2010/05/06/37-awesomely-pimped-out-bikes/ (sorry if posted before, i’d never seen it!)

ah thanks Mister P for some reason didn’t think that’d be available as a spare part.. or hopefully it is. thanks.

creamegg isn’t your full of dirt and jammed up? one wet ride was bad with mine.

ok martin you are right, the xt lever is a bit different to deore, but any functional difference? and deore has a hole in, holes are always good right? 🙂

remember any bike can take at least a 10mm rear and 9mm front axle, if you have suitable hubs. i almost want to put that last sentence in bold but then i’d look a d**k.

with 5mm skewers, i’d forget about light and get the strongest, stiffest thing you can, which is probably a solid steel rod with a big lever on the end. the weight isn’t much and the job is important. afaict shimano deore (alloy ones, not the cheap steel ones) are the same as Xt without the logos.

yay another EG. i think maybe all EG are pimp no matter what you put on them 😀 black is good, mine is so bright some days i have to wear sunnies just to get on it.

so i’m lost, what does make a bike pimp? is it like bling? is it something luxurious? can a Charge Spoon be pimpin’ when we all have it? is a gold chain vital? must it be something you added yourself? does anyone make a leopard skin saddle?

not sure if this is pimp or not, i know it’s shiny.

needed photo for insurance, thought you’d have fun with the grass and statue.

/me goes to order some thinner rotors.
i have real problems with pad clearance using Avids in mud
a good thin, round, true rotor?
maybe something more wavey to clear the mud?

actually yeah all my bikes are silver.. i guess that is.. slightly pimp 😮

same, i’ve been toning down my recent builds. not sure if i’m getting old but riding that around feels embarrassing, doubly so when you crash it, 3x if you then get it nicked.

i’ve just realised that’s a Trek. ok you have pimped that trek 😀 why are the grips so clean?

article needs more pics.

Hope will be each, ‘cos i bought one from CRC, still in bag as original was fine (mistake). you pay more for INA stainless, one of the best reasons to get Hope in first place really. but others will work for a while if kept greased.
or the usual talk to Hope nicely technique may work, depending on your story :p

elixir 3 should be fine and not unreliable. very common OEM on bikes. often the factory bleed isn’t good though. bleed, new pads (cheap ones), some red rubber grease around pistons, clean rotors with alcohol, bet they’ll be fine.

ok i’m gonna let y’all into a secret that will change your lives and give you massive powers to find good info (no joke). ignore the search on the forum.
search with google, like this:

what tyres site:singletrackworld.com

is this a crack site:singletrackworld.com

tada. and it works for every site, for anything, yay. and gives you nice recent only options on the side too (last month, year, etc).

and if you want to know what mtbr, ctc etc thinks too, try:

what tyres inurl:forum

is this a crack inurl:forum

Note: actually asking ‘is this a crack?’ is often pretty stupid on a forum, best done at your LBS..

ghetto is when you have a half 20″ tube around inside of rim, overlapping tyre. i have done this on Mavic rims. no way would i get any tyre on crest like that, it’s hard enough getting over the bare rim. so i don’t think crest is made for ghetto, no! also i ride with flints so RoRo and Schwalbe in general are right out (except the snakeskin ones or whatever they’re called, might work).

just wondering what does go easily on a Crest, or does the bead socket work by being damn tight? ‘cos there’s **** all else to hold the tyre 🙂

maybe they’re supposed to be that tight then? if you’ve got different versions from different places all like this.
weird thing is the bead socket looks like it could never work (way shallower than in the Flow), but so far, no burps for me 🙂

agree with comment about not riding tyres you can’t change, but what’s easy on this rim? Minion is not really tight. a tight tyre probably wouldn’t go on at all.

yer but some of us have Crests that are tighter than any other rim on market afaik. tighter than my Flow, but come to think of it, the Crest has never burped, the Flow has a couple of times. hmmm maybe i’ll hang on to this Crest.

yep had this discussion before, think must be batch of oversized crest rims, i have one (32h, 26″, Hope Hoops from Wiggle this summer), tightest rim ever. could be a problem if needing to change tube when out, which i’ve never done, went tubeless from new still on same tyre (Minion DHF 60a kevlar, which answers another thread tonight.). this wheel needs to go back to hope anyway, bearings don’t work.

….other days Mr Schmancy will make you feel totally inadequate. That’s how it goes.

btw, wet is more likely to get flats, and way less fun to fix. now is when you really want tubeless on… him.

Mr Schmancy 🙄 You’re going to regret telling us this!

yeah um.. what forum were you trying to post to? 🙁

never done SS or cross but smaller rings are lighter, so for same ratio, they should feel better, but will wear out faster. can’t see anything else change significantly? also more ground clearance. shorter chain. wear on the 15t may well be an issue.

yeah that YT is first bike i’ve seen that’s a real challenge to EG for value 😯

honestly knowing what i know now i wouldn’t really even look at the big brands, not to be a snob, they just don’t have the value that the newer european and uk “direct to customer” brands have (and i rode Trek for years ok!). other hand if you like test rides and lbs support there’s a place for those too 🙂

also this all changes if you get a good frame deal like bikescene does with spesh or go 2nd hand..

Titus El Guapo now available complete build for £2000, from on-one.
a true AM bike in the sense that it climbs really well. see lots of other threads for details.. only Mega is close in price afaik?

hah tell me about it dantsw13, same issue (same shock on EG). the lever does have an effect but it’s subtle, nothing like PP on fox. and/or shocks may be a faulty batch, not sure.
this bike is very nice from what i’ve read, higher bb than EG, only about 600g lighter though!

funny someone mentions Geax Gato.. that’s the only tyre i’ve ever ridden once and taken straight off. absolutely terrifying in the wet. maxxis all the way for me. i have ridden some other geax though and liked them dry (mezcal i think it was?).

basically, if you want some grip on wet rock/root you need soft rubber, and soft rubber is slow, that’s all there is to it.

edit: well slightly more to it.. if you want grip in mud, you want spikes, but spikes tend to skate on rock/root. so this is a compromise too.

met office heavy rain warning for the south for sunday, make the most of it before then if you can guys.
looks like Scott was doing exactly that last night, now how the hell am i supposed to compete with those times? hehe. well i’ll have a go on the ups anyways.. 😉

also is this another sneaky bit of trail? one beginning with “b”? tut tut.

yeah that’s no lie, he has snapped the frame, with his thiefy toolkit, and the parts are now his.*

*maybe.

If you look at the other items does seem like a bike breaker?

yes?
i like the wheel “which has still git nobbles onit its that new”
😯 … 😕 … 😆
this really is great.

stolen or not, i wouldn’t ever buy from someone that big an idiot. will he be able to pack things properly? will you receive a brick, or a banana? might the wheel contains a bar of chocolate? who knows, who wants to find out.