Put you on as a named driver!

Do it all? the only thing this will do well is a flat fire road

you rotate about the axel. If you tried to rotate about the bottom of your wheel part of your wheel would have to sink into the ground!

I was wondering whose tyre tracks they were which kept disappearing off the trail @pjm84 :wink:

Generally hard park and very fast rolling in the dry. Some fast corners so you’ll need something with some good side knobbles.

Since it rained during the week most of the trial has fared well,
other short sections have just turned to gloopy clay.

I tore the sidewall on my high roller there today :-(

…doesn’t answer your question, but might help you make an informed decision :-)

just reposting this link:

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/disc-brake-systems/product/review-avid-code-brake-10-37431

if you scroll down, and zoom in, there is an interesting graph to make some comparisons with.

+1 for hope, sounds like a V2 is the brake for you.

Ambrose, just swapped rear wheel with another bike. Still creaking.

elliott-20, excellent idea! Just cut the cables free from their guides, still creaking :(

more ideas please…

My tyre’s flat, but only at the bottom.

khani, To rule out the front end I can wheelie for a while just holding onto the toptube, so no hands on bar. Still creaks!

robhughes, If I did sell it I would have to tell them about the incurable phantom creak :evil:

rickon, if I lean the bike over stationary and push down on a pedal it does make the creak.

But as I mentioned in the above post I’ve eliminated the possibility of it been the pedals, chainset, bb.

I need some ideas to try…

Removed bb and chainset today, swapped for another. Still Creaked so it’s nothing to do with BB, cranks, chainrings or pedals.

Removed seatpost, still creaks. It creaks when I stand up and pedal.

I’ve replaced the chain and cassette, still creaks.

As I said in a previous post I’ve replaced the frame bearings and shock bushings. Still creaking.

I need more ideas to try!

Rather than filling the dropout bolts down I popped a washer on their in case the bolts were too long. Still Creaking! The dropouts feel very secure and are downing in grease.

I’ve looked for cracks, I’ve not found anything yet.

I think submerging half my bike in water will give me many different other problems 8O

I’ll get in on this £1 contribution to the winning solution! I need a solution!

Keep the ideas coming and I’ll keep trying them!

Dropouts taken off, cleaned and greased. Still creaking!

Non-drive side crank arm to axle interface cleaned and greased. Still creaking!!

Pedals taken off and different pedals tried. Still creaking!!!

Jockey wheels replaced. Still creaking!!!!

Rear skewer tight. Still creaking!!!!!

I’m just off to fettle with my bike now robhughes… I’ll update in a bit…

davewilson634 they are chainring style bolts, I’ve had the frame for a while now and it’s started creaking without touching the dropouts. I’ll take them off at the weekend and check. But I have checked they are tight with no play.

As for my knees Elliot, they do creak, a lot, but that is only one of the two creaks when I ride

I have my suspicious about the bb.

By bike was creaking so the first thing I changed was the BB, took saint out and a new Hope one in. I’m convinced it’s making the same creak.

I’ve had the BB out again and cleaned and greased the treads and greased pretty much everything else to do with the BB.

Still creaking :-(

To rule this out tony07 I can wheelie for a while just holding onto the toptube, so no hands on bar. Still creaks!

I took my 5″ travel Pace RC405 last summer to morzine, and it was the shortest travel bike I saw all week! It survived apart from a rock taking out the rear mech on the last day. But this could happen to any bike.

As you can see in this photo though, once you’re pointing downhill and on the brakes you quickly run out of fork travel on a short travel bike. I was desperate for an extra few mm of fork travel!

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I rented a DH bike for the last day after breaking mine. This made things much more fun!

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Some top advice there honeybadgerx! Thanks!

I’m based south of london. Geotecnical design is my main interest, so if you know anyone in Balfour Ground Engineering that would be very helpful! I’ll drop you an email tomorrow Iain. Thanks for the help!

My initial focus was on graduate programmes, I applied to all the ones I could find which I was interested in, but never got any further in the interview process. I must have been doing something wrong???

I can believe practical experience is far more important than a university qualification. I was just hoping that would open some doors for me. The phoning up idea is the sort of advice I was after! Thanks!

cheers for the advice guys!

any more links to educational videos or webpages?

I’ve got one of their bibs… it’s excellent! Has kept me toasty in the coldest of winters!

I’ve also got one of their jackets I use in the winter and a few of their base layers.

Does the job nicely :D

Make sure it is actually cheaper though… I’m sure you can find a few online bargains if you do some hunting

That sounds like good advice adsick :D

I’ve just moved near Swindon nick1962…. what’s nearby?

That’s useful to hear chiefgrooveguru! I’ve witnessed that one first hand a few times!

Links to advice is also much appreciated, by me and I’m sure others.

I’m also interested in if/how technique defers between full sus and hardtail

some good advice starting to appear here.

A ‘just go for it’ approach has worked for me so far. But I hope an educated approach will get me further

so body position? What do I do in the transition and off the lip? What do I do in the air?

That’s very impressive! Volvo comment on vid says fully loaded to 40tonnes!!

Yep. However, you may need some longer chainring bolts, especially if you get a plastic one. Good news is some come with the chainring bolts. I got a plastic blackspire c4 last year and I’ve given it some good bashes into rocks and logs and it’s still going strong.

I got a pair in january and have never looked back. Do you have a reason for opting for sp spokes? That goes against alot of the advice which appears on this forum.

Best bet is to let her pick what she enjoys. However…

If you want to guide her the best advice you could give is to promote the ‘facilitating subjects’. So as options these would be history geography and a language. The other facilitating subjects are compulsory (Maths English and the three sciences).

p.s. I’m a teacher :-)

1x specialized myka + 9* gold rated lock attached! I bought my misses the bike for Christmas to ride… she rode it once and loved it.

That’ll teach me to keep it in the shed!

Just built her up a new bike :-) That’ll be living in the house!

rotors are supposed to be smooth, don’t sand them!

No, I’m sure santa cruz alu frames are stronger than most. But here is clear evidence showing how much superior carbon SC’s are to their aluminium counterparts.

I feel sorry for anyone who owns an aluminium santa cruz right now

defiantly worth trying a bleed!

As a long shot, check fluid isn’t leaking within the calliper contaminating your pads.

34t strongly recommended here

I saw a CB Joplin go for £30 today on eBay. They are known for having a lot of lateral play and this was a lever operated one… but still… £30!!!! times that by about 10 for a reverb!

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IMG_1281[/url] by smatkins2[/url], on Flickr[/img]

I’ve bought my frame, now to start building my lightweight XC speed machine :D