Is there an easy way to find out the backsweep of bars? I’m interested in the above too but don’t know what sweep my Whyte bars have.

It is for longer rides to help with fatigue more than anything. Weight is a priority though which is why I don’t want a normal sus fork.

Possibly. But 250g is a lot when you’re 58kg, and the Lauf is already adding a few hundred grams. And a sid is about 350g more than the Lauf.

Ah thanks! I didn’t even know they existed.

Anyone know the weight of the Selcof MTB fork?

Word to the wise, if you want something from abroad, be very prepared to not expect a quick turnaround if you need to return it!!

Well, yeah obviously.

Pricings not too bad if you only buy a bike ever 5 years or so. And dont buy loads of kit unless you really need it.

I feel like I’ve been ‘out stocked’ of biking as I would like a new bike to replace my 2015 one but there’s no stock anywhere.

With the current parts shortage, I’d keep them as spare. Especially things like brakes.

Made my own press/puller with a few bits of scrap plywood, bolts, washers, nuts. Worked fine on 2 different frames.

The only tricky part was removing the chainstay bearings (dropout end) on an old specialized fsr xc. Had to make a blind puller with a bolt that had a slot in the end to push a screwdriver into. Worked pretty well.

Hiw about a bit of PVC pipe cut to size? Could probably get it in 30 or 32mm then cut it length ways so it stretches to fit. Though I just use carbon assembly paste.

Sounds heavy.

That definitely depends on the particular turbo. Mine was wildly inconsistent as the viscosity of the fluid changed with temperature

Not noticed any change with temperature. But then it does warm up quickly in the first 10 mins, so any change would only be during a warm up anyway.

Thats why I use a dumb trainer with a speed/cadence sensor to give virtual power. It’s consistent and I just use the gears to increase resistence/power output. Perfect for intervals.

Damn. I’ll look for something else then.

I used 33mm tape in WTB i29’s. One layer of tape works fine with Maxxis tyres.

Had a few stone chips. Once had a long drive in the rain and had a lot of water get inside the frame.

Much prefer the bikes inside the car. But mostly due to a bad back and hassle of getting a very heavy rack out the garage and on the car which inevitably puts my back out and ruins the ride.

After all that she was actually polite, just had no clue of what was going on around her.

This is the most common observation while I’m out riding or running. People in general don’t seem to have any awareness of what’s around them, then get angry when they realise they didn’t have any awareness of what’s around them.

Surely if the deal is done and all signed for, it’s not your problem.

Sounds like it’s just a new position to get use to. My calfs use to hurt when I was new to MTBing and standing on long descents but quickly adapted.

Next time you’re riding, check you’re not tensing your legs. The bike should be able to move freely under you in case you hit any bumps.

Mine seized once. Soaked in WD40 overnight then repacked with grease. Been fine for a couple more years.

Zwift if pretty mud free at the moment. Can’t think of anywhere else.

It depends on the cost of the rim. If its a cheap rim, I think its worth it just to get a bit more comfort on the front end.

A 2.8 Rekon is only 967g.

Rims that are drilled to reduce weight; are they a single wall design? I think that’s what I’m after.

2.8 tyre for a rigid fork. I’m 7nder 60kg so don’t need anything strong. Just want a wide rim with wide tyre.

I overthink things way too much which is my biggest problem.

What kind of sleeping bags pack up small? I’ll probably attach the tent/bivvy to my bars so will need to be creative with where things go.

What about this:

Topeak tent

What stops anyone stealing your front wheel? Thus, ruining the next day.

lightweight down bag

Is that just a lightweight sleeping bag?

The suggestions are certainly making me reconsider getting a decent bivvy bag.
I’ve had my bike inside a tent in the past, but a larger 3 person tent. My main reason for having the bike inside a tent is so anyone passing won’t know its there. If its outside it could still be tampered with without me knowing. Though an alarm would help as suggested above. Even if I just put the wheels inside the tent I’d be more comfortable than leaving it all outside.

If I go down the bivvy route I’d get one with a mesh section over my head so bugs (flying or crawling) won’t get in. The tarp idea to cover everything sounds like a good option.

It would be for the summer in the south of England. SDW.

I’d go during good weather so low chance of rain or storms. Wasn’t going to bother with a sleeping bag, but would take an inflatable ground mat and emergency bivvy incase I get cold.

If I go down the route of taking cable locks I’d need the tent to be nearer 1kg.

My worry is that I’m a heavy sleeper so wouldn’t wake up if someone was messing with my bike outside the tent. I once woke up to my house alarm going off. My other half told me it went off a few times that night and I slept through it.

If someone had to move me to get to my bike, I’d likely wake up.

I thought about a bivvy but just don’t feel comfortable with my bike out in the open. I’d rather it inside. I could even use it as a pillow.

Can it be downhill?

I’ve used the Topeak one too. Comes with longer bolts and since they come in pairs, you could use 2 together.

A shorter crank means less leverage, but less movement might be more efficient. I prefer a longer crank even though I have short legs. My experience of shorter cranks is much like the OP’s.

After doing some research into Bivvy bags etc, I thinking of using a cheap single wall tent so I can put my bike inside too. At least then I can sit, eat, rest without being bitten. Looks like a 2 person single wall tent packs down a similar size as a bivvy bag and tarp anyway.

So, if I did the 2 day option, I’m thinking a bivvy bag with a net so I don’t get better all night and a tarp to cover my bike.

A few questions:

1. What bivvy would you recommend that rolls up small and light?

2. Is a tarp necessary for summer?

3. Am I better off with a lightweight tent that I can put my bike inside? If not how do I secure my bike?

I found Chanctonbury ring to be a spooky place to sleep.

Is that right up on the ridge with a few trees? I think if I did stop to sleep it would be up there. I’m thinking 2 days so I can start a bit later after a decent breakfast on day 1. Then stop with just a bivvy bag and thin tarp. Looking online a bivvy bag and tarp won’t be too heavy and could attach the bag to the bottom of my backpack.

My Sram Guides were a bit more tricky to bleed but other than that, they perform really well. One pair are 7 years old and needed a seal change in the callipers which was easy enough.

I find Oakleys too wide for my face. And silly money compared to non fashionable brands.

I’d maybe start earlier than that. When we did it we started c.4.30 in the morning. It’s pretty cool heading out at that time, getting to see the dawn etc. It also means you’ve got a bit of leeway if stuff goes wrong or if you want to chill out a bit.

That would mean leaving my house just after 2am so wouldn’t have had much sleep. I don’t want to book anywhere to stay far in advance in case the wethers bad. So it would be a case of deciding to do it a few days in advance at the most.