Also restricted to 11-50 Eagle cassetteas shimano freehub (as I found out post-purchase). Think moving to 10-52 needs a new wheelset, with XD hub. And finding the cassettes in stock.

Have a look at Sunrace cassettes. They fit Shimano HG freehubs and work pretty well.
As for wheels, I got some WTB KOM light i29 on DT350 hubs. Not super light at 1850g but much lighter than the stock wheels. And wide enough to run a 2.6 ikon on the front.

This is my experience on repeat:

Recruiters. “Are you looking for work?”
Me. “Yes”
Recruiters. “So you can start immediately?”
Me. “No, I’d need to work my notice period.”
Recruiters. “So you’re not currently looking for work?”
Me. “I am currently looking for work. But also currently employed”
Recruiters. “Why are you looking for work if you already have a job?”
Me. “I hate it.”
Recruiters. “Oh, we have roles that need filling by the end of the week.”
Me. “Ok”
Recruiters. “So are you interested?”
Me. Repeat conversation.

I put a charger damper in my 2016 Yari and it really did make a big improvement. Not had to touch the internals of the charger damper yet.

I’d be tempted to contact the seller and see what they say.

Didn’t specialized have different mech hangers for different hub spacing? I’m only guessing but could a different hanger add an extra 5mm of width?

It looks like a road frame so probably is 130mm spacing.

That one is steel which is why the price is low.

36t not is stock but might be soon from here:
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.SunRace-10-11-12-Speed-Steel-Narrow-Wide-Chainring_211140.htm?sku=647997&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_4-SBhCgARIsAAlegrXf43TXTqw-JT82d0-zMHH6opTjIH09_ZD51CfaWxQihtYtYD3tdRYaAgZvEALw_wcB

I just shake the bike up and down and listen for splashing. Pretty easy to hear from each wheel.

How about 2 shims. One at the top and one at the bottom so the post can’t wiggle in the frame. Just add a small piece of double sided tape to hold the bottom shim in place.

Don’t forget that first time round you want the tyres to seal and inflate with no sealant. They may not stay but that proves that they are close enough to bung the sealant in. 

This. The first time I tried tubeless I put sealant in at the start and it was messy. Now I inflate to about 50psi to seat the tyre (it might make a loud pop as the bead seats in place) then let the air out before putting sealant in through the valve.

grimep

That’s what I’m after. Thanks.

Ah sorry, yes it’s 3/8

So what about the M25 or any other orbital motorway/multilane ring road?

Exactly. The inside would keep changing depending the the roads bend. Much easier to say left, middle, right lane since that stays constant.

Trick question isn’t it, as any fule kno round abouts only have a single lane, it just gets straighter as the road gets wider.

Not a trick question. Many roundabouts have more than one lane. Some have more than 2 lanes.

yet annoyingly my wife calls the outside lanes the ‘inside’ lanes, as shes ‘moving inwards towards the middle of the road’.

Makes perfect sense to me. Put it this way, if a roundabout has 2 lanes, which one is the inside lane? The one nearest the middle is the logical answer.

Its the outside lane as the default lane is the 1st lane you join on the motorway, you then move to one of the ‘Outside’ lanes to overtake.

2 issues with that.

1. If the road bends round to the right, the outside of the curve is on the left. So the far left lane is on the outside.

2. If I’m doing 70mph in the left lane, then cars in the middle and right lanes slow down to less than 70mph, does the left lane then become the outside lane since I’m passing the other cars? It happens a lot. I know you should overtake on the right but this does happen a lot.

Left or right is just easier. Every car’s left is the left, and every car’s right is the right. Doesn’t matter if you’re in front or behind. The car’s left is always it’s left. My left hand doesn’t change when I travel abroad or turn around.

I never understood why people say ‘nearside’ and ‘offside’ or use the terms ‘inside and outside lanes’ when it’s not actually the inside of the corner. The inside lane on a corner is the one closest to the inside of the curve, otherwise its not an ‘inside lane’. I was never taught nearside or offside. It was just left or right.

Someone tried explaining it to me by referring to the nearest kerb to the car and it made no sense. Surely the nearest kerb depends on the lane you’re in. In the right hand lane of a dual carriageway, the nearest kerb is on the right, not left.

I loved square taper. BB’s lasted for years and never had an issue with cranks arms falling off. Maybe I just got lucky as I saw loads of cases where the non drive side had fallen off.

This sounds the same as ethics of strava segments when people cut corners, use ebikes, draft, open gates, jump lights etc.

People who sit in traffic with foot on the brake. Then don’t even start the moving off procedure until the car in front has pulled away.

Why would you want to start moving before the car in front has pulled away? Unless you mean drivers that take ages to put the car into 1st gear and pull away.

If you’ve spent the best part of a grand on a Canada Goose jacket you need to get the wear out of it.

I don’t understand why people buy Canada Goose coats that are designed for extremely cold climates, then wear them in the UK.

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-xg-1150-11-speed-cassette

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-x1-11-speed-chain

The chain is X1 but only £22

But you’re describing a ‘slice’ that doesn’t go all the way through and there’s no bulging / leaking. When is a slice in fact a scratch??

Yeah I guess its a scratch that looks like a paper cut. It goes vertically (when the wheel is rotated and its at the top). I’ll try a patch on the inside then. Thanks for the suggestions.

It’s the cranks that have a big price difference. That’s why I wondered if there were different types of DUB bb’s.

It’s definitely both DUB. One titled DUD with a 49mm chain line, and the other as DUB boost.

Via USB transfers the lot but without albums.

Don’t have iCloud.

Regarding the DT dropper. Does anyone know if the cable mechanism at the bottom of the post can be rotated? It looks like ot might, and I’d need to rotate it to miss a bottle cage bolt boss in the frame.

All my best times on strava going up or on flat is on the lighter bike. Same tyres (Maxxis forekasters at the moment) It could be partly due to wasted energy from suspension but that can be locked out.

Just weighed my current alloy seatpost which was 320g, so the DT swiss dropper is pretty much the same weight, though after some measuring, I think its about 5mm too long for the frame due to a bottle cage mount.

IMHO…weight is nearly irrelevant and unless you are an elite level racer looking to shave a second off here and there, it should be ignored.

I’m not elite and only ride for fun, but weight makes a big difference for me. I’m a low weight/low power rider. 58kg with an ftp of 205. My Whippet is 2.5kg lighter than my full sus and is noticeably faster on climbs and anything other than very rough terrain.

If I go foe the DT dropper I’d need to use a shim but that would probably be fine.

You say for fun, but then all your comments suggest you’re just trying to make it lighter. Lighter by even 500g (which would be quite a big saving) isn’t really going to make it more fun.

500g would make a big difference for me going up hill. So, would be more fun for xc rides. I love going fast on this bike. Even though I don’t race, I get competitive with my times. I have a trail bike that’s 3kg heavier which is more fun on rough terrain or decents. But much slower on xc rides. So much so, that I’m planning on making that a little lighter until I find a replacement bike in stock.

Carbon bars
Carbon seat post
Grips
Lighter tyres that do what you require
Latex tubes or tubeless kit
Maybe a bargain saddle upgrade
Maybe lighter cassette

Got carbon bars already. Carbon seatpost would be nice but now tempted by the DT Swiss dropper.
Already tubless with Maxxis Ikons so can’t get much lighter there.
I’ve seen some used X01 carbon cranks at a reasonable price.

Can you build wheels? Do you have a LOT of patience? Might stretch your budget a bit but will reduce your wheel weight significantly. Berd Spokes.

I did a long time ago. Happy to have a go. I have some spare Novatech hubs. Nothing special but could use them. I run a 2.35 rear and 2.6 front tyre so need a decent width rim.

That DT swiss post does look tempting.

Cassette wise. It’s a 10 – 50 GX. I remember seeing some light 12 speed cassette on ebay a while back. Maybe one of those?

Don’t want a dropper on this bike. Unless it’s insanely light.

I bought new wheels for it 2 years ago. WTB KOM light on dt350 hubs. Can’t really get lighter without spending a lot more.

Carbon bits would be preferable to save weight.

I’m usually fine with how tight things should be, but I about to treat myself to some expensive carbon bits and don’t want to overtighten anything, and also don’t want to undertighten causing things to slip and score my new expensive bits. The Park Tools one is at the top of my list but if the cheaper ones from Lifeline as recommended above are just as good I’ll get one of them.

Regarding calibration. Would a beam torque wrench need calibrating too?

I’d make a wild guess that the OP isn’t going to be fitting any compressors, £200K or otherwise, to any submarines.

It’s just for some Carbon bits that require 4Nm and 6Nm.

Norbar is too expensive. Looking for something cheaper than the Park Tools wrench.

My road bike has 10 speed tiagra shifters with a 9 speed ultegra rear mech from about about 1998. Works fine.

The bigger problem might be finding something in stock.