Guy in the back was a total dick but the middle aged xcer should have let him pass when he could have he had the chance there is no point arguing with idiots. The kind of bullying that the guy behind showed is what keeps lots of people out of our sport at local xc race’s and endro’s was it a world cup timed run no.

What were you using to tubeless those non tubeless rims, rubber rim strips? I am pretty sold on the alpha rims just because Stan’s rims have been so easy for me to run tubeless in the past.

I think it may just be your technique it has been touched on here but the trick to getting tight tires on is to press the bead in the middle of the rim giving you the greatest space to slip the tire on. Or your running too thick a rim strip remember they are designed for the super thin yellow tape and a tight tubeless fit. Don’t give up on running tubeless it really is easy with the Stan’s rims onces set up.

For wheels it would be good to know what you weigh and how hard you ride? I have been riding the new rise 40’s on my ninner and they have been great once I worked out how to tubeless them. For day to day riding you can’t beat hope’s on Stan’s if you want a race day special the Stan’s pre built wheels are awesome value but with there light weight hubs and spokes not for the heavy or clumsy.

If you want to go OTT get one of these’s and modify it to slip a wheel under swapping bearings is a breeze.

http://www.reevegroup.com.au/engineering/eng_products_arbor.htm

The Ti red front mech can be a little tricky to set up I find that most people don’t run enough cable tension to get it working smoothly. If it really annoys you a steel cage version (a red branded force mech) can be bought which is more positive.

Most sealed bearing hubs will have a small spacer that sits on the axel between the freehub and the main bearings in the body of the hub. It stops the freehub binding up it would be my first guess.

Melburn based here if you have any questions on spots to ride.

I had two d-jabs but I don’t think the sliding plates were Ti.

Sounds like the o-ring has been pinched or is the wrong size or undersized (it happens sometimes) or you have fitted the wrong one. What ever it is sounds like you need to fit a different one.

Not a album but a moment at a UR gig in London in the late 90’s a night club in Vauxhall the dj played numbers Mixed it into final frontier by UR I was so happy I think I made a little sex wee. But if we are doing singles final frontier has to be up there I still have a unopened copy.

what about this cheat day

I am loving my 2012 EMD Rides nice the finsh is good and the price is right already thinking of up grading to the alloy air.

Too much air has gotten into the negative side of the shock, this is what’s trapped in and cannot be released. So you basically have a little bomb on your hands. Like bigyinn has stated if you gingerly remove the air sleave with a rag in the eyelet wearing earmuffs and goggles you then can do a air can services once it pops off. If this idea scares you get someone else to do it. I did such a services in a open plan workshop and it made everybody jump in the shop when it let go.

HT vs FS I work on other peoples bikes all week and I ride hard tails out of lack of time and energy to keep a FS running at the Ievel I want, that and the trails where I live are easily rideable on either bike. So if it was me I what ask myself do I have the time and money and or skills to keep a FS running your adding a whole lot more bearings and a rear shock into your maintances program. Without trying to start a side debate I have just bought a ninner emd and beside being less nimble in tight singletrack it rides like soft tail in the extra grip and cush it provides.

That lynskey has too much colour coding but it’s lovely.

I would be happy to get it helcoiled but just a word of warning I saw a set of lowers helcoiled and they were drilled too deep and the lowers started leaking. :D

it’s internally travel adjustable it that you add chips to the air assembly which then shorten its effective length and also the tarvel. I have adjusted the travel of many revaltions to 120mm and even used Reba air assemblies which have a max travel of 120mm in revalations to run them at 120mm. With the beffy lowers you end up with a nice stiff short travel fork.

Just had a look for them on the spare parts guide I can’t see them but I have seen them if that makes senses. Can you take a photo of the shock I will be able tell from the can wither its what is thinking of. They are red rubber seals which sit in the outside ring of the air sleave and you add or subtract them to tune the volume of the air can. I would not give up on the shock just yet remember frame designers choose a shock setting that suits most riders not all and there compromise may not suit you.

It’s because you touch yourself at night.

Why Velcro over a neoprene chain guide is it weight.

You know with the RS high volume cans you can tune there volume with internal rubber inserts and change the compression tune if you want. If it was me I would talk to a suspension tech about retuning the shock.

Sorry double post.

Most people nowadays swap to rigids for a bit of a challenge and to lose some weight on the bike. You also have to be careful to get a fork with a similar axel to crown height as to not throw out the handling. My concern would be that you found yourself wanting to ride harder stuff and the rigids would hold you back or freinds would ask you to a trail centre or similar and the rigids would not cut it.

So we’re the spokes 2nd hand.

I don’t know if it’s still the case but I could never get there non-tubeless tires (kenda) to tubeless up. Stan’s no tubes list what works and doesn’t from memory. I have not used it but lyzane make a high volume floor pump.

If you are in nz then I would be asking around about the differences between the backup on the products. My 2cents the modular nature of rs make them a good option for the home mechanic i.e it’s easy to do lower service’s and even full strip downs with some patience.

Sounds like you need the thin spacer that shimano provide with the 10 speed cassettes.

you sure it’s not presursied that can make the air cans hard to release and also dangerous remove the scherder core to be sure. Maybe a better oil strap and a lever will do it.

Just checked the air assembly for the 2009-2011 fork is for 80-120 so you should be able to do it.

You will only be able to answer this by taking the air assembly out if it has travel spacers fitted you can add travel by taking them out. You can also look up the SRAM Rockshox spare parts guide and it will show you the travel and type of air assembly that can be fitted to your fork. Be carefull as Reba’s had a major revision in 2012 and there internals don’t fit any pre 2012 fork. Just let the air out before you pull it apart.

I thought Stan’s use to de-lame some. Maxiss ust tires but I use the Maxiss 60 tpi tires with no problem. As stated before if you ride enough you will wear out the tires before they “rot” after 5 years of running tubeless I have had no tires rot.

Very nice and I think the revalations suit the build.

Tig wields are used on steel frames as the heat from mig wields will blow through thin steel very quickly. That’s why tig and brazing are the most common ways to make a steel bike.

As a mechanic that has worked in road racing my concern is wheel swaps in a race situation and the how easy it would be to swap a wheel when you have to negotiate how the caliper is mounted in relation to the new wheel and spacing etc. The whole 10/11 speed situation has already throw a curve ball into spares and speed in wheel swaps.

One way to look at this is that as shit as it is the worst thing that will happen is that the freehub is replaced under warranty (cb warranty is generally pretty good) and you may need to run a different cass) at least you sussed it before the trip. Where in oz you riding I am in Australia and the cb distrubutors are really good so take you receipt with you.

If it’s knocking on extension it’s more likely the spring or the rebound rod or the bottom of the mo-co cartridge is loose.

Meths makes your brakes screech and ip cleans themselves properly what’s cheaper pads or the cleaner.

Trying not to state the obvious but if you measure them a bearing supplier would be able to help you out.