Use an air compressor works every time.

Because I already had them, I fitted a spider less chainring from homebrewed components to some XO cranks. They look nice and are super light I will get a photo up in the daylight. Not a cheap option or one that would last long in a english winter though.

I had to serve a customer called Mr Labia in a London bike shop he was right $%#* he wanted to talk about Brompton’s for a hour.

Completely different spacer I think much smaller in o.d as the airspring run within a airtube within the the fork leg. Solo and Da alloy upper leg forks basicaly run a different air spring but I could be wroung as to there swap ability. I know ones made of rubber and ones plastic I will measure some for you.

To have got a trade earlier rather than speed years in university to find I am happiest spending my day using my hands and fixing things.

Drop the lowers and read the travel measurements on the uppers. 80-100 forks were all qr 9 where as 100-120 can be qr9 or 15mm qr so if you have 15mm lowers they are 100-120.

+1

I have seen it on lots of different forks don’t stress just ride them.

The square seals are more important to replace than the actuel pistons but from memory they come in the same kit anyway. Without trying to state the obvious have you tried the trick of holding back the over active piston and getting the slow piston to move more sometimes this is all it takes. Another nice trick recommended by Avid is to leave new pads in the brake then squeeze them without the rotor in place until they touch and then reset them back in the caliper it helps to lubricate the seals.. As you do this you can also train the lazy piston again by holding back the over active piston hope this makes senses.

Well it was a good run.

You can run a lighter weight oil in the lowers than 15wt if you are regular in your lowers services. I find it moves around the lowers a bit more especially with a bit of slick honey on the bush’s it works a treat, try mixing red rum with 5wt 50/50.

Still don’t know what we are talking about.

Look up the archived spare parts list on the SRAM website I think answer is yes if you order the correct coil, top cap and lower rod bit.

I am confused what are we talking about here?

“Interesting that Avid and Shimano are both coming out with 4 pot brakes, so Hope M4 ahead of the game.”

Shimano’s first XT brakes were four pot, if your in the uk I would go hope just for your easy access to spares and tech surport. Your also surporting local manufacturing.

The brace was added later, I had both the braced and unbraced model and I think they started rating them to 140 later on. Looks like you have the 2nd of the versions I have seen, I would think it would ride like a barge at 140mm I rode mine at 100mm and it was spot on for me.

Enve do but they are bloody expensive.

I can’t stand that style of stand only good for working on time trail bikes or bikes with intergrated seat post. The basic Minoura stand which holds the bike by the seat posts has been a great home work stand for me.

Sounds like you need to do a maintances course or make freinds with a MTBer who has some mechanical skills. I Make my living fixing bikes and servicing forks and brakes but you would be amazed at how much work can be done on freinds bikes for a six pack or a case of beer.

Less tweaks are needed to run 650b on 26er frames than 29er wheels, the new intense farme have swap out chips to do just this. I can see the smarter farme builders doing this but do we need it who knows. All I know is that my 26er feels wired when swapping from my 29ner and I can see a 650b bike in my future I was almost tempted years ago when building some for customers but at that stage there were no specfic forks.

I run a 32 11-36 on my weight weenie hardtail and 39/26 11-36 on 29ner and I love it. I have not used shimano’s 2 by 10 set up but with the sram cranks you can shift into the inner ring with quite a bit of torque and I like this. That said I live in a fairly flat part of the world and I am walking up the really long steep stuff if I have too.

The tredz image they have posted looks like what you need, but you are doing the right thing by double checking.

http://chrisking.com/cart

I think this is what you need.

I think you are going to struggle to find a hollow bolt to suit. Your idea of undoing and setting the rebound my be the way to go once you have tightened up bolt and then removed it you should be able to adjust it with a allen key without the the rebound rod moving although I would probably flip the bike to do it. I stopped running the red rebound adjusters years ago as I never seem to adjust rebound on fork on the go once I have set them up.

The sunline stems are on special at crc at the moment.

I think he is suggesting it will help it being secure it to the the fork rather than the side to side movement. What’s the stack height of the stem and size and I would swap to a shorter stem if possible or play with the stack height of the headset if possible (but you say no to this). The issue isn’t so much that the clamping force on the the fork more that you will over stress the stem and break it.

I would pay extra for the fork the reba is a much nicer unit, lighter and easy to services,tune and it will last a few more years than the recon too. As to the brakes I would be happy to have the shimano’s easy to services yourself and better after sales services.

Ready to be corrected but I thought the 14mm and 12mm nipples had the actual thread at the same distance from the spoke. 14mm being the prefered nipple length for machine built wheels and some aero style rims I.e mavic cxp 33’s.

Just to throw a spanner in the works have you considered moving to Melbourne. Weather isn’t as nice with fairly wet winters and damp trails, but with a bit more stuff going on a well orgainised mtb race scene lots of events (two dirt crit style races a week at the moment. I was born in Oz live in melbourne but spent 9 years in the UK and I think melbourne is closer to the UK lifestyle than Perth depends how layback a life you want I guess. Also a short trip away from the Tasmania which is amazing.

Very nice bikes and a nice team that create them the main man Darren Baum is a very smart guy. Where are you based though as I think half the benefit of buying a Baum is the consultation process that goes into the frame from the bike fit to the choice of material and manipulation. When you get a ti frame each tube is externally butted to achieve the ride that you want based on your weight and riding style, lots of man hrs go into every frame.

I found the cheaper performance range of Racing Ralph’s excellent to run tubeless with Stan’s crest rims yellow tape and some local australian made sealant I have not burped one yet and they were doddle to seat. I am waiting for summer to buy some lighter tubeless ready ones although from fitting them to other bikes I have found there side walls a little more porous so they take a little longer to really bed in.

Plus one ^ it will rule out or confirm the hydro lock you suspect.

Is this Peter Jackson’s early safety video work?

Email your nearest spesh distro I think you need a SRAM s3 direct mount but double check it’s a more common direct mount standard and one that spesh use’s. I have a s3 xo fd in very good condition that I will sell cheap if you want from oz email me. S3 is the shimano etype without the e-type bracket if that helps.

Do you have kids mine like to move my apps about for fun.

I made a pact with riding mates that we would tell each other if this was happening I was told when it happened and the shorts moved to the under shorts, thermals pile. Being caught behind someone in such shorts is great motivation to get in front.

Depends where you live I have some great fire trail tame riding which is boring on a MTB but fun on a cx near me so it suits me fine, I put some fat 700 by 35 slicks on my bike and I have a great ride to work bike. When winter comes you have a bike for cross season do it.

Hard tail vs full sus, shimano vs SRAM these effect chain length photos please. At a minimum you want to be able to run big big with out ripping your mech off even at full compression I.e full chain growth.

Yes you can use a 24mm spanner or a good quality adjustable wrench. It’s just a nice tool for the job and has a short handle so it’s hard to over tighten the cap

You will need a mission control wrench to pull out the mo-co unless you pull the x-loc attachment apart to use a 24mm socket.