Nice score love people that share and move stuff on.

T30 truativ bars are nice and wide and carbon and I am running some on a 29ner and I like them.

I am not going to comment on the issues above but one trick to getting gxp style cranks to work well is to refit them a few times with lots of grease at the intial instillation. They work like a square taper crank in that there is a interface fit between spindle and the non drive side crank arm fitting them a few times and torquing them corectly 48-52 n helps to make this fit correct. My exiperence is that most people don’t torque them correctly as well and they need to be tight to work well.

Not scientific but I comute now on a cx bike with light road wheels and rims( I have a different set for off road) and I am getting to work the same time as I was on a full fledge road bike. I don’t feel any slower than I was on my road bike and I use the cx bike for the ocasional bunch ride without any issues.

I have never had trouble fitting tires to any Stans rims I think you guys need to improve your technique or increase your thumb strength.

Corroded I am guessing you have not found the cheaky trails around the yarra or the west gate dirt crit’s.

Not unual for variation in carbon fork ID’s nowadays, that colnago unit looks nice as it is a good depth helping to protect it from crushing forces etc. Good roadie orientated websites like fairwheel often qoute the width of carbon bungs to help purchasing one over the net.

I have a Nigerian uncle thats having some real trouble moving some gold out of the country and just needs some investment capital ! nah lucky bugger enjoy it.

I am Australian and have lived in Canada and the UK and as much as I love Australia Canada beats us hands down for outdoor sports winter and summer (BC at least). So guessing as you are on a mtb forum take this into considiration as for your family well I think both countries are good places to raise kids. I would make sure you that you make the move that the wife wants in my exiperences happy wife happy life etc. If your intreseted in more questions email me.

I am on to my 2nd set of these’s

http://www.sennheiser.co.uk/uk/home_en.nsf/root/professional_headphones-headsets_headphones_502188

the first lasting me ten years as a working dj, but that probably tells you a bit about how many frequencies I can still hear.

The dura-ace grease is expensive but very good for hubs.

What do you need it for this stuff

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=41679&category=205

Is great for o-rings and rear shocks and very sticky a little too sticky for front forks where slick honey is better.

Great on a cross bike and when you have to swap a wheel quickly, which is why they are now common on pro bikes one less thing to do when swapping a wheel.

Call a plumber! then moan on here how much tradesman cost.

What is the logic with the disc brake being on the front of the fork, is that the load is being pushed into the fork and not pulled.

A few hrs on the flat tracks at the you yangs in Melbourne trying to find my MTB legs again.

Chain may be two long and fd too high pictures would be good.

A full grown roo jumping in front of you at 110km’s hr at night is a scary thing. It’s bad enough if they jump in front of you on the trail.

Haven’t worked on a brompton for over ten years, what’s differnt from the factory model.

That much air loss shoulds like an issue, but you bought new so I would not worry. Could be a bunch of different things but the Sram techs would be able to diagnose it quickly some times it can be as simple as one twisted or undersized o-ring.

So it’s just like a turnkey or a regular mo-co, I will be doing that this weekend then.

The major issue with the lower end forks is weight the steel coil forks lubed up well actualy feel really plush. But I would spend the extra wedge and get a gold fork the they are more tweakable and just as easy to services with a bit more patience.

I think there is a little Judas Priest as well, I saw one interview were one member suggested that if they had seen spinal tap during there heavy touring days they would have thought it a docuementry as most things had happened to them i.e getting lost under stages.

I have looked at doing this with a ti black box moco before I guessed at drilling out the pop rivets but could not figure out how to re-attach the ti spring, is it just re-riveting it back.

If you have the time hire a car and drive down the great ocean road swinging back inland for the otway forrest. I am a big fan of Chinese and Japanese food and we have in melbourne a great china town, yum cha at the dragon boat on a sunday is a treat. That and seafood by the bay it’s a little touristy but my English outlaws love the beach comber in st kilda along with a beer at the espy.

Nice work, looks like a great bike for long days in the saddle and a spot of cx racing.

Technics 1200’s over 30 years in production with minmal changes.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Technics_SL-1200

46/34 with 11-28 here for racing, switched to 11-36 with a different rear mech if I am doing some long hilly rides. I like the difference between 36/34 for the muddy races’s.

I have just got rid of my 26inch hardtail as it felt too wired switching between it and a simlair 29ner. It was faster in tight single track but the swaping over all the time was doing my head in.

Seals are very different between the avid syringes and the oil syringes, not sure if the dot fluid syringes could be used with oil but I say that the oil syringes would be destroyed by dot fluid. If you leave dot fluid o-rings or internals in fork oil they swell up to twice there size so it would probably destroy the avid syringes as well.

Campag is Iso shimano jis i have been trained not to mix the two as your likely to shagg the crank arms.

Older parallel push shimano brakes are all good if you can get the 2nd generation version’s which were less prone to squelling. If you can get a deal on the the avid ultimates they are also a great brake. Just reread your post get the brakes that suit your bar set up if you stay with sti’s the avid shorty ultimates are a great bike if yiu set them up right from the begining.

In my exiperence it comes a lot down to spares and the amount you have to keep to quickly turn over modern forks. There is only so much a small workshop can keep and there is nothing worse than getting half way through a service and finding you need a part that is days away. Which may not even fix the issue, forks tend to fail in fairly regular failure modes and big service centres tend to identify and address theses issues quickly and order spares accordingly.

Just use stan’s rims regular rim to build with and with tape becomes tubeless.

It may be that a large air can will not fit in the linkage’s of the frame.

Not new but killer

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e5tdZBwPXu4

Polishing crank arms wink wink nudge nudge

Grease becomes oil in use totally normal if it’s super dirty then it time for a service. They come with a heavy o-ring grease on the seals but a little red rum on the top of the postive air piston seal head makes them super slick.

Are you renting if not you could always build a plinth to surport a vice. I had a local fabricator make me one the only mod I had to make was to have a side surport made to bolt it to a wall as cutiing was making it vibrate like crazy.

I don’t have to ride in English winters or what you guys call a Summer though.