Are you in oz if so get a good socket set from supercheap auto
+Then get some impact socket sets from a good auto mechanic supplier (usually not cromed and six sided and easier to file)
+Then file them down so there is no lip to slip on the low ridge of Fork top caps
+ Finally get a ten mm deep socket for the rockshoxs or a t-handled 10 mm socket.
If your in Melbourne let me know I will tell you the shops to go to.
I think you guys are missing the point trails are often closed due to rain in oz to protect them. Which you could not do in England as you would end up never riding.
Sounds like hydro locking when oil leaks into the lower legs from the upper part of the csu. It should be fixed under warranty or replace the 10c o- ring that has failed if you know what your are doing.
Rct3 is very easy to set up, it has three settings open, mid platform (opens up when you hit anything big) and closed. On top of this they have a low speed compression dial to adjust the open setting.
I like revs and they are easy to travel reduce as oposed to the newer models which require a new air assembly. I would go the rct3 cartridge as it works great. As to doing the the travel reducing if you have clean workshop and patiences its easy enough.
Plus one to o-ring replacement the oil moved for a reason, o-ring, seals need replacing they ware out. I like your tool other fork techs I have worked with have made them out of plastic to do the job.
It May be the b-tension it needs to be spot on sram mechs to work well and different hangers will effect this. It could be the chain length sram is always on the shorter side. Finally do you have enough outer cable, too short and it will effect the mech getting in it to the 11t.
Locked out forks with all the fine crap that riding on the road will put into them will kill forks pretty quickly. Get a cheap ss for your comute, cheaper than new forks.
Grab the reba the thru axel will improve the ride more than the mo-co you use and you can always upgrade later. The above posters are correct too in saying that there is now minmal difference between the platforms I have built and used forks which are “reba” csu, lowers with sid internals.
Lyric have not changed there csu (the top bit) since 2010 pretty much any generation mo-co will work be it a basic or a more involved unit. With a rebound only fork you would be better off going for a basic unit as the two stage compression units work best with the more advance rebound unit. I don’t think you won’t be able to get one.
I am staying in Cambridge with the outlaws away from oz and I been amazed at the people riding on the road today with the rain that it is. I can only put this down to being stir crazy sitting around the house, I can remember after our baby was born happily setting off into a rain storm as a break from the house.
It is possiable, two guys are doing it at work you just lose the bigger range of the xx1 cass. I think from memory they are using the reg 10 spd chain.
Tell us how it rides looking good so far, you won’t be dissapointed with the rebas just be regular with your lower services and the ocasional full strip down. If you not shy with mecainical work I would drop the lowers pre first ride and add some extra lube like slick honey and some heavy weight oil they are a bit shy on the lube from new I think it’s to stop leaking in transit.
What type of groupset have you used before I like the feel of sram both mtb and road, but I also like the clunky positive feel of campag the last shimano groupset I liked was 9 spd dura ace and that had simlair feel it also looked hot. Noise wise old sram red and new sram red have never bothered me as it has always been normal chain on cass noise. Finally Sram is a little harder to set up mechanics don’t get the rear mech cable length right it needs to be a little longer to get the cable run smooth, they don’t set the b- tension correctly and they don’t get the chain length right (it should be on the shorter side). As you can probably tell I like sram if it’s set up correctly the shifting quickly becomes intuitive and fast.
I use the A10 sound card and tracktor 2.5 scratch with a Pioneer mixxer two 1210’s and a x1 for when I don’t need to beat mix or when it’s a mobile gig (I play with a buddy that has a portable sound system attached to his bike which is solar powered). But at home I would like be able to use the laptop as a juke box looks like father christmass is getting me a nuforce udac-2 so I will see how it goes.
I have been doing a bit of reserch on these units do they really bring something to your music at that price. I am looking at making the laptop I use to dj the hub of my home hi fi system. I use traktor to dj it has a inbuilt sound card but I would like to bypass the mixer and get straight into the itunes for day to day use, at the moment I just have the minjack to rca to do this.
Nah leave it, oil on top of the air piston its good for the breakaway of the air spring with a little slick honey on the o-rings, eventualy it will migrate to the negative chamber but if you strip the forks down often this won’t be a promblem. Rock shox put grease on the o-rings to increase service interval times but it slows the action of the air spring.
Looks like a novatec free hub to me they general come in 12 mm and 15 mm axel types. The 12mm has cup and cone style adjustment flats and the 15mm uses 5mm allen key end caps.
I run the toepeak rear rack for the short run to daycare daugter loves it and the other kids think she’s a rockstar for turning up by bike. I just drop the seat in the stairwell with the buggies and ride on to work. I can footpath and bike track most of it so it’s pretty safe, a work mate who has to do the run rain or shine use both rack and buggy on the filthy days. He got the buggy from me some person had left it at the local waste transfer station.
Teaching my 3 yr old daugter big fish little fish listing to techno in the car she invented two more techno dance moves, little cow, big cow and little kitty, big kitty with appropriate moves she also makes the devil sign when metal comes on the ipod.
