Wasn’t there someone advertising an E55 Merc on the classifieds t’other day?

05 or above = No

Diesel = No

Economical = No

5 door = Yes

Sporty = Yes

Quite quick = No

Stabbed rat quick = Yes

Not sure how their prices compare with others but had nothing but brilliant service from advancedmp3players.co.uk in the past

senditnow.com

£11.99 next day

£12.99 next day before noon

Sent via Parcel Force, couple of extra quid to up the insurance

A few from when ours were about 3-4months old. They’re about 18months old now. Less cute, but they bake their loaves outside now which is much nicer:

Steve:

Mike:

Pair:

Skinners – Betty Stoggs

Sharps – Doombar

Bondhus
Wera
Facom

All brilliant kit, so you can’t go wrong with any of them

I wouldn’t go by that pic necessarily. Only 9 washers/cups/cones for 2 bolts?

Sainsburys Basic (or cheaper if you can find it)

mrmo at work on south facing elevation we typically install a soft coat solar control to prevent too much heat build up in the building.

On north facing elevations we install a soft coat low e which have better u-values than their hard coat counterparts and light transmittances than the solar control glasses.

But, as you say, in a 3 bed semi, you would be very hard pushed to tell. In a glazed office block or school, it’s another matter.

Sliding sash windows aren’t great on u-values in anyways, so i’d just go with a decent low e glass, and the band c rating.

As above, safety glass in doors and anything below 800mm high (so side lights to doors). Toughened glass or laminates are fine as a safety glass. Toughened is more difficult to break. Laminate is more difficult to get through once broken.

I’m not up to speed with the new doc L for refurb dwellings, but I believe that the whole window needs to be a WER (window energy rating) band C or better (which the installer should be able to tell you). It used to be that as long as the glazing provided a centre pane u-value of 1.1 or better then that was sufficient, but the new doc L (came into effect this month) changed that.

mrmo, the soft coats we deal with at work typically help reduce the solar gain (for others, not mrmo, reducing the sun heating a room like a greenhouse)while still having a lower u-value and thus keeping more heat in the room (by reflecting the heat from the room back into itself). Unless you were talking about radiating heat into the room by absorption into the glass material itself and it acting like a radiator?

depends on the sun as to which is the better choice, look around and there is alot of technical info on which products do what best

In what way will the sun effect the performance?

I do tell a lie though. I have thought of two pro’s on hard coat over soft coats:
1. Some hard coats can be used on the outside of the unit rather than in the cavity
2. Hard coats are easier to store, handle and manufacture into unit

Neither of which would be helpful to the OP.

Argon filled is pretty much standard in commercial glazing. Argon will leak from polysuphide sealed units, but will stay in silicone sealed units.

FunkyMonkey – Argon typically drops the centre pane u-value of the unit by approx 0.5W/msqK which is a pretty big percentage drop.

As said above, a low E coating is required under building regs, but don’t go for Pilkington K whatever anyone tells you. It’s not as good as other coatings performance wise, and has a brown tint/colour to it.

Don’t pay more than £5/sqm for argon filling. Warm edge spacers will make little to no noticeable difference, so aren’t really worth the extra, especially in a uPVC window.

I can’t think of a single pro for a hard coating on the glass over a soft coating. Soft coats perform better, but are typically more expensive. Hard coats are old technology.

There are a LOT of different coatings you could get depending on what you want from your windows (looks, perfomance etc), but i’d just get a decent low e coated unit with a 16mm cavity (optimum for lowest heat loss with argon gas filling).

A laminate glass will help add an element of security to the glass, but if a crim knows what he’s doing, will still get through.

“Excuse moi ………….blah blah blah look at me I speak French……oh what’s that, you’re not French. I feel so embarrassed now that Nick knows I can speak French.”

Well that backfired you putain (see we all speak a bit of French), talking about having to find a toilet while trying to sell muffins.

And breath……….rant definitely over this time.

First hand experience.

You are using the right tools.

Might need to hit it harder than you think to get it moving!

If it happens to be a Saab that you want sorting, then can highly recommend Abbott Racing. Basically a ‘Gran Turismo’ like list of upgrades and all very good bits of kit!

Also a strong bottom end on Saab turbo engines (older ones) meaning they’re good for 400bhp, but you might need an uprated clutch!

Want to vent some bile then vent toward Fern ‘The B*tch’ Cotton. Fed up of her ‘i’m the coolest, i’ve seen every cool band under the sun before they were famous’, routine very, very boring (and very very annoying), so I turn over.

Is it bad that at less then 30 years of age, there are times of the day that I would rather listen to Radio 2 than Radio 1?

To be honest, Chris Moyles is about the only thing I can enjoy listening to till on Radio 1 until 7 at night, when it becomes a decent radio station. Even then he bugs the cr*p out of me when he rants and raves about how hard done by he is!

Can anyone else tell i’ve had a few beers and the missus is out?!

Delirium Christmas > all other beers in the world!

Asbestos removal cost A LOT. Classed as hazardous waste, so any company that can remove it will have to be licensed and dispose of it at a hazardous waste landfill in the UK (only 7 or so in the country).

Because of the dangerous nature, licensing required, and low amount of available landfills, it can get very, very costly.

Try phoning the UK distributor. I sent them an email this week and had a phone call with a response about 20mins later. Not bad service at all!

Dashboard Confessional (MTV unplugged)

If you don’t mind spending the money, PIAA silicone blades are good. Every time they wipe they leave a bit of silicone on the screen which helps the water bead off.

Felco C7 cutters are very good. Went through my Goodridge hoses easy peasy.

Cheers Ginga.

I tend to take loads of photos and hope some of them look good on the larger screen on the laptop!

Photos from the recent holiday.

Santa Monica (foggy as you can see!)

Alcatraz

Alcatraz

Start of the Rubicon Trail (Loon Lake Dam up from Lake Tahoe)

Grand Canyon

I must disagree with all the above and say that my most favourite mythbusting ever is this:

Awesomeness!

Explosions are cool. Crushing a car with a rocket propelled sled is cooler. Also the section after when they try to explosively weld metal is pretty cool!

Lol, could have done with the ambulance the other week after a couple of bottles of Deus!

Got a couple of LaChouffe and a small bottle of Delirium lined up for tonight

I have a G Shock (with new strap):

Missus has a Monaco:

And this which isn't strictly a watch, but does tell the time Meridiist:

If you're going from Northants, I find that down the A43/A34 towards Oxford, then off onto the A420 (single carriageway for about 20 miles) which pops you out onto the M4 at Swindon, is as quick as hitting up the M6, M42 but less stressful.

About 4-4.5 hours on a good day. As echoed above, Avonmouth to Bridgewater is busy, but then it always seems to be at any time of the day, unless you go over night.

Missus has a Tag Monaco and a Tag phone.

I have a G-Ghock which I have just had to restrap, but is an awesome watch. Covered in paint

Labrador if you never want to worry about having your bins only collected every other week by the council.

You can (and I have) feed them anything, and not only will they eat it, but will enjoy it too!

I think if you take the red route it will miss it, but then you'll miss most of the really good black run bits.

Walk it if you want as there's no chicken run, but you don't really notice the height when you ride it (looks worse in the photo than it is).

Hora, 'if' you are really being serious, then drop me a line as I might be interested in the rear wheel.

Bait the little f**ker. Rats are clever, so don't bait it with food they can drag away. 'Paint' a brick with cat food. Rat comes out to lick the food off of the brick (seeing as it can't run off with it). Do that enough days, then introduce some crushed up Warfarin (rat poison) into the cat food.

You may want to keep the cat away from the poisoned food. You may not. Depends how annoyed you are with it for letting the rat go in your kitchen!

Not on a mtb, but a wee bit longer!

Longer nose manual (BMX)

Double glazing will make your house warmer in the winter, cooler in the summer and cut down on the noise from the outside. Plus, resale value of your house will increase. You'll also increase the security as it's more difficult to break two pieces of glass over one, so might even get a reduction on the insurance.

However, the cost might be quite a lot as you could be looking around £100 for each shaped double glazed pane. You'd have to wait a good long time to realise any savings on heating, so the initial costs might seem high!

What about an evening brewery tour at Skinners. Pasty, and pretty much as much 'quality control' beer as you want, for less than £20 each if you have some mates.

Not in the slightest Mediteranian.

You could try Bar 2000 (or is it 3000) which is down a small alley opposite the museum. Out of the way, so nice a quiet, bit pricey, but nice lager and cocktails if that's your bag.

Otherwise, as mentioned above you could do a lot worse than the old ale house.

You could finish your evening off with possibly the classiest night club in Cornwall…..L2.

Enjoy!

Anyone else using Double Walls, or other Azonic bars?

My oem 318 solo airs had 100mm of travel when I bought them. I decided to see if they had the spacer. Upon opening them up I discovered they had the spacer in the 130mm travel position. Odd I thought as I was only getting 100mm of travel. When I put them back together, low and behold, I got 130mm travel.

It's very easy to change the spacer as long as you have a decent 24mm socket and a shock pump for when they go back together. Why not give it a go…….free travel upgrade!