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Viewing 32 posts - 81 through 112 (of 112 total)
  • 502 Club Raffle no.5 Vallon, Specialized Fjällräven Bundle Worth over £750
  • sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Thanks, all. I’ve got myself the Park Tool FR-5G, which has the long locating pin. I’ll take care to make sure it’s all the way in, and I’ll be using a torque wrench when tightening it. I’ve got copper grease too.

    Thanks again everyone for the advice

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Thanks, HC. Will do.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    As bike is Arkose it has a double life. One day it’s a road bike on slicks, next day it’s bashing boggy bridleways on knobblies.

    Have airshot and can mount tyres reasonably quickly, but can change wheels even quicker.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    That’s reassuring. Thank you.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    I thought the concern with the pre-recall hanger was that the wheel could potentially come out but I read the OP as either saying the hanger came loose from the frame or the mech came loose from the hanger, and as a result the mech came into contact with the spokes of the wheel (that was still secured). Is that correct?

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    40/32 with 700c 41mm tyres would be too tall for me if I was riding somewhere hilly. But you may be fine.

    As others have said, the Superstar NW chainrings are so cheap you could just chuck one on and give it a go. I’d say 38T would be a better bet though. (I’m running a 42T, but with an 11-42 not 32).

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    I maybe alone but I didn’t get on with the 46cm Cowchippers I bought and tried on my Arkose. Possibly more so though because of the width rather than the flare. They weren’t hard to sell on, so don’t regret giving them a go.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    You’re absolutely right. Ignore my last post!

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    That is the theory, however sometimes theory and reality are not the same thing sadly.

    Fair point. If someone does need to reindex though I’d suggest the dishing is slightly out on one of their two wheels.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    I don’t get this, it is hardly like 2×11 is complex.

    You’re right, it doesn’t seem comnplex because we’re all used to it. But 1x is simpler.

    Imagine a manual car that didn’t have a single gearbox. Instead of six speeds it had four, but with a dual ratio transfer box. You’d start in first and low range, then second, then third, but then for the next ratio you’d have to change to high range and back down to second, then third again, then fourth. That’s what we do with 2x gearing. It’s just that we accept it as the norm.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    You would need to size your chain and rear mech on the bigger of the two rings, would you end up with a lot of slack when running the smaller ring? (arguably when you want the least slack i.e. offroad?).

    You size for the larger chainring. When using the smaller chainring it’s no worse than using the larger chainring and not being in the largest cog in the cassette.

    Why the re-index?
    I guess to accommodate for any difference in cassette position between wheels? Your disc could end up in a different position too, if the bike has disc brakes that is.

    The wheels will both be 135mm, the cassettes will be the same width, and the rotors in the same place. There’s no need to reindex anything.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Although I have a dedicated road bike I do just that with my Arkose in the winter. Knobbly and 38T for off-road, slick and 42T for road.

    A single ring set up with the same range as a double ring will only have two fewer ratios. That might make a big difference to someone wanting to maintain a constant cadence whilst holding a wheel in a bunch, but not to me.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    I seem to keep buying lights, and have small box full as a result, but of all of them this is the one that I think is by far the best for rear daytime A road use.

    http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/reviews/lights-reflectives/bontrager-flare-r-rear-light

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    It’s just the GXP BBs with ceramic bearings that have that regreasing requirement. The conventional GXP BBs don’t.

    Unless you’ve a team mechanic to service your bike at the end of each day, stick to the regular ones.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Sorry, confused. Why does 135mm limit you to 10 speed?

    Shimano road disc and mountain 11-speed hubs fit 135mm frames, as as does SRAM 11-speed disc road. SRAM 11-speed 1x mountain does as well (doesn’t it?) but you need an XD driver hub.

    Or do you mean you have 10-speed hubs on your wheelsets?

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Good to know, thanks :)

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Anyone know if the rear Joytech rear hub on the 2015 Arkose 2 can take an 11-speed road cassette?

    I’m guessing not, as the 105-equipped Arkose 4 has different hubs. But you never know…

    (I’m thinking of re-purposing the rear wheel, not converting the bike’s 1×10 to anything else)

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    27th Feb – Kuurne-Brussel-Kuurne – on Eurosport 2pm and repeated at 5pm etc.

    Could be mistaken, but thought KBK was on Sunday (28th). Could that broadcast on Saturday be last year’s?

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Does anyone know if there is a way of watching the Classics live online without resorting to a dodgy pirate feed or a Sky subscription? Would happily pay to view the price of a cinema ticket.

    Eurosport Player[/url]?

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Did it last year. Liked it. Doing it again this year.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Yes, I believe the chain he bought it from did suggest that…

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    I think the this thread vindicates Evans’ policy of reviewing one star comments for action rather than publishing them blindly.

    Premature failure of a hub bearing and a refusal to take the wheel in for rectification does not make the bike a one star bike. A catastrophic frame failure might, but not something benign and easily replaced. Vent your angst that it failed somewhere if you really must but don’t distort the average rating of the bike for a component that would likely be fitted to bikes from many other brands, unless you’re somehow going to identify and mark them all down too.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Excellent!

    That looks like it would be perfect after that bend had been taken out. Many thanks indeed :)

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    That’s great, thanks Jameso!

    I tried that with B+M bracket I had but couldn’t get it to fit. It was probably just too short, so wasn’t going forward far enough before it bent up. Now I’ve see it can be done, I’ll see if some bending won’t do the trick or try to track down a different size one that does fit.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    No-one? Perhaps it’s only me that wants their Arkose to live a double life. Bridleway Basher in the summer and winter road bike in the, err, winter.

    Stripped and knobblied for when it’s Mr Hyde, but with fat slicks, guards, rack and permanent lights for it’s Dr Jekyll. Maybe even do some multi-day touring on it like that.

    (or perhaps it’s only me who wants permanent lights on his/her Arkose when it’s wearing its sensible hat)

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Question: Has anyone fitted a fork crown mount for a Dynamo type permanent front light? Obviously we don’t have the usual caliper brake mount to use, so has someone found or fashioned something that can use our guard mount under the crown?

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    To show the bends I had to put in the front stays. I still need to fettle the guard-tyre gaps front and rear to satisfy my OCD by making them perfectly consistent, but you get the idea.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    I fitted SKS Bluemmels to mine at the weekend.

    Drilled a hole in the guard for the fork crown mount. Could have then bolted it straight on but wanted it to sit a bit closer to the 38c slick tyre I’m running for road use, so used a Presta valve securing nut between the guard and the hole to space it out a couple of mm.

    Biggest annoyance was getting the front guard stays to line up with their little receptacles. They’re angled to line up with the stays if those were bolted to a conventional eyelet near the axle, but the Arkose has its mountings higher up the fork legs to clear the disc caliper. Bending the stays into an S shape solved that, but it’s not quite as rigid as a result. Others may have found a better solution.

    Rear went straight on in 10 minutes.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    North London, 1970s. Backie.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Similar is the Planet-X’s London Road. Hydraulic discs and SRAM 1×11 for £1k, or be patient and wait for one of their frequent offers like the 20% on xmas day.

    Norco Search Steel looks good value discounted but cable discs only.

    Arkose 2 2015 a left field choice. 1×10 with a bar end shifter, but full carbon fork and hydro discs for £765.

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    From the specs:

    Arkose 3 2016 only has carbon bladed forks, ie an aluminium steerer.
    Arkose 4 2015 has an all carbon fork, and is reduced to the same price.

    And, FWIW, I agree with you about colour!

    sixpotbelly
    Free Member

    Sorry – is this for real? Never heard of this scheme before…

    http://www.specializedconceptstore.co.uk/the-hub/specialized-tyres-satisfaction-guaranteed

    NB Applies to in-store purchases only.

Viewing 32 posts - 81 through 112 (of 112 total)