I’ve had that on every dt swiss hub I’ve ever had

Mine too.

I think “They all do that, Sir”

I have a pair of Geoff bars that I fitted and rode for a couple of hours, then took off again to try something else. I was thinking I’ll give them another go at some point but, as long as you were happy to pay what it would cost me to replace them when they come back in stock, I could send them your way and get some more later?

Rough Stuff touring. As per Fred Wight, before the internet invented a special word for it.

A more useful angle. Forgive the scruffiness of bike. It’s much loved but leads a tough life. This was the day I got back, and it got washed immediately after!

Has anyone put WTB Resolutes into a 2015 Arkose? My Nanos have given up the ghost so I’m thinking about replacing them with the Resolutes (assuming I can find some to buy!). They are 42mm so 2mm bigger than the stock Nanos,

I’ve not, but Nano 40s were about as close as you’d want to get to the fork on the sides. The 42s will fit but may be less mud room than you’d want with a tyre like that.

I have – thank you WTB for supporting the 2nd (and 3rd) Torino-Nice Rally.

Jameso is right, surprise surprise. They fit physically but really don’t leave much room for mud clearance at the front. You could ride them when it’s dry, but then you may as well ride something slicker and faster if it’s not muddy. they’d be great on the later bikes with more clearance though.

@Jameso

Colours .. still looking for that universal colour that everyone likes … : )

Does it fall to you to pick which one of them becomes the frameset only colour? (Or does it have to the colour of the highest spec offering, so should you need to make a warranty replacement the customer doesn’t feel ‘shortchanged’?)

If the former, did I mention that blue is lovely? :D

Thanks 6PB, colours looks great huh? (I didn’t pick the colours so I can say that!)

Yeah, loving that sea blue/green on the D1 especially.

But also the specs. Space for even larger tyres, through routing for dynamo wiring…

pssst – https://www.instagram.com/p/BsDSjK3l1LP/

They keep getting better! :thumbup:

I’m suffering (probably unjustified) foreign ordering nervousness.

Nothing to worry about buying from Europe.  As an EU citizen buying from an EU supplier, you’re fully protected by EU consumer protection legislation

For another handful of months.

6potbelly, while I had the spec sheet open I checked the chainset, it was a road spec but it seems the BB cup isn’t the same size as a Shimano. If the Shimano road BB is narrower then a spacer each side will do the trick.

Thanks!.

🙂 yep – sort of, an MTB BB or some spacers will fix it. But tbh I’m not sure now what the spec of the 2015 BB was in terms of cup width. I could find out but it may not be an ‘asap’ thing.

Ta, James.  No need to look it up, I’ll put an XT BB in.  Looking at it after posting I’ve realised the chainline would benefit from the chainring being brought out that 2.5mm too.  I’m sure now I was wrong to fit a 68mm without spacers.  :thumbup:

I used to run the 42T on it quite happily.  It was close, but it cleared.  Now it doesn’t.  But I’ve changed the BB since it did, which is why I’m suspecting I should have used spacers…

Loving the look of that Pyrolite!

@jameso  I just went to swap my 42T chainring onto my 2015 Arkose 2 only to find it no longer clears the chainstay.  I know it used to, so have to assume when I changed the BB (to a 68mm Ultegra) after Tour Aotearoa I should have put spacers in, or used a mountain BB.  At least that’s what my much more knowledgeable friends are suggesting.  I was wrong to think it’d need road spacing and they’re right (again), aren’t they?

Hey Ben … 42T might be a challenge for CS space. Ring will be 2-3mm off the CS. A 40T would have better clearances. It’s a 5-arm 110 on the 2015 bike, yes.

I realise the question was asked a month ago but, in case it might help others, thought it worth chipping in anyway to say I have run a 42T on my 2015 1x Arkose 2.  It did look very close to the chainstay, although so does the 38T, but it did clear.

Looking back at the chat you could be right you know. There may have been confusion with the Bish Bash Bosh Rival 1. As I can’t find any other evidence to support it let’s assume I’m wrong about that Space Chicken price. Sorry for misleading everyone.

…or maybe a CX bike that isn’t a pure race bike? Like the Boardman CX Team. (I don’t know much about them, TBH, but I picture them being between a CX and a gravel bike. Apologies to Boardman owners if I’ve got that wrong.)

My Arkose is my favourite bike, but it is slower than my Synapse road bike. Both on the stopwatch (about 2 km/h down on average speed on the same roads) and in feel. It isn’t as responsive. Which, of course, is another way of saying it’s more stable, or less nervous. I don’t know if that’s all down to geo or also partly due to weight, but I think that stability is what makes it good on bridleways, rocky tracks and multi-day rides. I also like it as a town bike.

I read it though that you’d like something with a bit of a racier feel. Maybe more X5 than Range Rover. Something with more of a road bias. A secondhand GT Grade perhaps?

The other difference I understand is that the 350 is manufactured in a plant in a country with lower labour rates than the country where the 240 is made. (I forget which the two countries are). I’ve never owned a 240 (and probably never will) but I do have a 350 rear hub, and I’m very happy with it indeed.

Other than the weight saving and the country of manufacture, I believe every thing else about them is the same. Same ratchet system, same bearings.

Just looked back through my club whatsapp chat where we were talking about them to see, and it was £1199 for the Rival 1 version. Confess I thought they’d reduced it by more than that, to the point where it would have squeaked into thread budget.

Much as I love my Arkose, with your user name you’d have to at least consider the Space Chicken from Planet-X.

Think they were on sale last week, but if they aren’t anymore give it a few days and they’ll surely be again…

(Sorry, no idea how they ride)

Yes, SRAM 10-speed MTB and road had the same pull ratios.

Not that I own one, but there really isn’t a huge amount of difference, TBH I think they try to create differences to encourage N+1. The only CXish issue I can see is the large front chain ring.

A CX bike would typically have racier geometry, a higher BB height and narrower tyre clearances. It may even have the cables running along the top if the cross tube so they don’t get in the way whilst you shoulder the bike. Designed to be fast and agile to ride for an hour between the tapes.

A gravel bike would typically have greater tyre clearances, more stable geometry, a normal BB height. Designed to be ridden for all kinds of things.

Not to say you couldn’t race a gravel bike in a cx race, and I have done, or ride a CX bike across the Alps, but if you’re buying a bike to do one specific job it makes sense to get one optimised for that rather than optimised for something else. In the same way you wouldn’t buy an endurance road bike to time trail on, or a downhill MTB for XC.

Not sure about a Grade for cyclocross. It’s a gravel bike, and one from the road-focussed end of the spectrum too. Think the OP would be better with a CX bike.

I have a Goretex 1861 Shake dry and it’s an amazing piece of kit. Single layer, extremely breathable and waterproof. However possibly a bit fragile for MTBing and expensive.

However I rode in it for over 70hrs on a recent 9day LEJOG in the most terrible wind/rain and never got wet or sweaty.

Just a shame they only come in matt black. For riding road sections I’d want a brighter option myself, considering it’s something you wear in the worst visibility conditions.

thanks both!

That blue is nice…

@jameso. Is there any difference in the 2016 Ramin 1 and Ramin 2 frames except colour? The Ramin 2 frame is currently being sold off on clearance, but it’d be for a rigid build.

Or would the Ramin 3+ frameset be a better starting point? (29er build rather than 27.5+).

Just thinking the £110 saving by getting the cheaper 2 might go a fair way towards a nice, lightweight rigid fork..

richardthethird of this parish used a tapered airlok sans harness as a seat pack on last year’s TNR, IIRC. So it can be done..

We did a self supported weeks trans alp ride – our only luggage was a camelback each.

We did the obvious thing – used proper bike bags, built them up in a quiet bit of the airport, left the bags in left luggage. Didn’t cost a massive amount for the week maybe 40 quid? Baggage people didn’t bat an eyelid.

Entirely painless and easy – this was at Geneva but I’m sure most airports have left luggage.

That works if:
a) you’re not riding to and from your UK airport of departure.
b) your foreign tour is a round trip.

When one or both of the above apply it’s CTC bag time…

I think sram use the same pull ratio throughout so mtb mech work with their equivalent road shifters

Not for 11 speed.

No, but the Apex 1 mech will

Has there been any official statement on this from Heathrow (rather than a comment from one of their baggage handlers)? What are they going to do with bikes that arrive in Poly bags on flights from other airports?

If you have to run your tubes at 95psi to avoid snakebites that’s not a reason to stay with 95psi after you go tubeless…

TRP Hylex, as suggested above, but with a £50 SRAM SL-500 ‘aero’ shifter in the bar end and a £50 Apex 1 mech.

Giant Revolt 2? Hard to make out from the pic on their site, but I think I can make out guard and rack mounts

I’m also 5’8″ and test rode both small and medium (2015) before buying. It felt like either could work for me. In the end I plumped for medium, deciding that way only because my road bike is medium and I’m used to that. Could just as easily have got on with the small, I think.

It’s not the GPS radio that drains the battery but the screen. It just seems like it’s the GPS because you typically use GPS with mapping applications that leave the screen on for long periods.

I’ve used Greenalp on my Samsung before when friends or family wanted to track me on a long ride. it works just how thecaptain envisages. Leave phone alone and there’s minimal battery drain over not running it. The power it does use comes from sending your position updates out to the server over 3G/4G, so set a low update frequency if you need maximum battery life.

ITV4 vs Eurosport: As footage is the same it depends on who has the better comms team. It’s a safe bet ITV4 will have Boulting and Millar and my guess is Eurosport will field Kirby plus one. Millar has been exceptional as a co-commentator, reading the racing with insight and predicting moves, whilst Kirby just tries to show off by using arcane words and digressing into pieces of trivia delivered as if he’s the only one clever enough to know them. ITV4 wins for me.

DT R460DB?

460g, disc, tubeless, £30

DT R460 / R460DB rims,
Shimano hubs,
Roger Musson’s e-book,
Spokes & nipples.

Cheap and so easy even I can do it.

Torino-Nice Rally