"168bhp at 5,500rpm, up to 184lb.ft of torque at 2,500rpm (if you've pressed the Sport button"

Is that all? TDi all the way, 187bhp (4000rpm) & 290lb/ft torque (@ 2200rpm), 50mpg+ on work run, mixed running and traffic. Big estate car too, so fits in plenty for those weekends away – 4 people, 4 bikes, full weeks kit recently.

My Blur LT2 goes into hibernation for the winter – it doesn't like the mud : 😉
I've been riding an alloy frame for winter / wet riding, but after some selling on here, I raised the cash for a 456 and a few bits. Should have it next week, then need to build it up. Aim is a softer ride, as the alloy HT beats me up too much. Last rode a steel frame in the early 90's!
HT is good for remembering those handling skills and making line choices – FS will simply flow through most stuff. After a winter of riding HT you do feel the benefit and ride faster & smoother on FS as a result.

9 days after today to work, then redundancy.

Have been counting down the days and can't wait to get out as atmosphere just so terrible. At least you're moving on to something else and they're not loading you with work.

No mention of Sportypal – another very good GPS tracking app.

Well that's a mixed bag!

Still own a set of 2002ish Float 100 RLC's – they have been mis-treated as the "old" set of forks by not getting serviced, but still working great and now gracing the front of my sons Spesh, replacing the oversprung (for his weight) coil RST's it came with.
Have the 2006/7 Talas RLC (130mm), which have been pushed and some '08 Talas RLC's (140mm) with 15QR, so do like my Fox forks and had zero problems with any of them. I just saw the Rev's and was curious whether they'd be better than my older Talas forks, to see if it was worth splashing some cash, plus what I could hope to recover selling the Fox's.

Actually inflated on 819 without sealant and held air well. Bit of bonty juice and stayed up fine. Mud X on the other hand, needs latex as the super juice doesn't hold pressure.
Loads of grip and worked really well at low pressures, particularly in forest of dean, but xc in Cotswold clay wasn't such a good idea (no clearance).

5'10" and opting for the 18 as same effective top tube as FS – both to run 70mm stems. Went from medium to large on FS frame as medium just too short, so forced to run long stem.
It all depends on what feels right – FS always feels like everything in right place when I jump on, old HT always felt squashed up and clumsy.

Mine are covered anywhere as long as locked or I'm riding it – just in case some scrote knocks me off.
Cover is through Abbey and bikes are "specified" items on insurance. Costs a bit more, but nothing like the quotes I've had for cycle specific insurance. It's been many years since I had quotes, but cheapest was over £400 and that was cover on one bike only. Currently covered for FS, HT, son's HT and a…cough…road bike.

Used to post regularly, hadn't been on here for ages and recently re-joined…does that mean I have to do the zillion post rule or do my old posts under my old username still count? Can't see sense in minimum post rule – great if you have the time.
As for selling, I've sold a few things on here myself. I've had happy buyers and I've had silly offers & maybe I've listed some things at too high a price. I've had an offer that left only a few quid after postage for an item costing over £30 and which is barely used, I politely declined.
As for the increase in ads – have you seen the ebay fees lately? Listing fee, 10% final value fee, then another chunk of cash for the paypal fees (who include your postage charge in their calculation), then a fee to withdraw what they're happy to leave you with. On most items you're looking at about 15-20% of final value!
Point is, if people get what they want, at a price they are happy with, what's the problem?

Northwind – you've clearly not had to get through a Cotswolds winter. Mud, mud & more mud. Being Cotswolds, add in slippery rock and some road sections to link trails & you get the picture. Tyre has to grip in mud but not be lethal on rocks or roads. Ran a mud x up front last winter – replaced a big 2.35 Bonty wet as I had clogging issues. Rear tyre – it's as much about balance & weight shifting as it is tyre tread to be honest. Opted for a low tread that collected less as rear tyre clearance on current HT isn't huge. Have found 2.25 advantages on FS work in most conditions, but it doesn't come out in the depths of winter.

Summer tyres? What happened to summer FS and winter HT?
My rear 2.2 Advantage is near enough bald anyway, time for a replacement. Ran all last winter with a crossmark on the back of the HT – at least it picks up less mud, usueful when the local terrain turns to clay.