Did enjoy the descent into Boot, just not the constant dismounts across the top. Looking again at Memory Map it looks a fair way round to skip the Burnmoor Tarn crossing.
Harter was horrible, although the gully down to the stones is a good descent. Just hoping someone can advise on the other bridleways, hoping to keep the off-road content, but not need hours to get from Boot to the stones.

Llandegla was accessible by car by the weekend, but the trails were well & truly buried. No chance of riding there yet.

This has my support. Let’s face it, costing differences will be relatively minor for most healthy adults & when travelling even as a couple, will balance out against standard ticket prices. If travelling with kids, then there should be a benefit. Maybe if Berm Bandit had to pay a full ticket price for a 2 year old child, then have the airline squeeze (quite literally) someone into the next seat & spill across half of your childs seat & be grumpy about the fact that your child bumped into them (in the seat you’ve paid for), then perhaps that would alter your opinion?
Mid -flight after much aggro & child unable to settle as so squashed into one side of seat, I offered to help the “gentleman” consume his lunch, tray & all if he didn’t shut up & move.
If the airline were to state he had to have two seats & they were paid for, then he can “spread” all he wants on his seats. If paying by weight only, then stick to your own seat.

Getting tired of OP’s incessant whining, failure to accept reason & downright rudeness, not just of people’s posts, but now stereotyping the staff at Hope (I don’t work for Hope & only have a Hope headset, that came with HT frame, so not a Hope fanboy either).
As the OP’s argument seems to revolve around the plastic outer, not the actual bearing seal, I thought I’d add this picture

This shows a Chris King BB, which is incredibly durable, with only a small plastic cover (which sits on the axle & as pointed out to OP long long ago in this thread, will allow him to run his original chainset without any clicking/grinding from wear to crank axle & bearing interface, as most BB’s are axle to bearing, whereas CK have this small plastic sleeve).
So, if the CK BB works without huge chunks of plastic wrapped around the BB, perhaps the Hope one can too? Although I encountered a short lifespan on my Hope BB, anecdotal evidence on this thread indicates that longevity is generally good.
If the OP is really that unhappy, ditch the Hope, buy a CK & stop getting so defensive & abusive.

Richmtb – so right. Been there too. I’m in the driving lane & obeying the speed limit. Am I really undertaking if other vehicle is in the 2nd overtaking lane, with nothing to overtake? Were that car to use the road correctly, I’d have happily moved out into the 1st overtaking lane to pass.
DezB – I’ve taken to calling them junction divers – how late can they leave it to scythe across 3 lanes of traffic & onto the slip road.

Actually had a car drive into the side many years ago when motorway narrowed from 3 lanes to 2. Apparently it was my fault that I wouldn’t make room for him…with 40 tons of lorry alongside & another behind me!!! Needless to say I won that insurance argument & with minor damage to old banger I was running at the time, compared to extensive damage to side of his new car, costs were much higher on his side.

Tailgaters and undertakers (people passing on the inside, rather then people driving hearses) on the motorway.

Agree with this in principle…now, if the people who sit in lane three with two empty lanes inside them would learn to pull into the correct lane, there would be far less “under-taking” going on…although the **** on the M6 that weave across all 3 lanes (mostly in sports cars & the stretch through Cheshire BTW) should be dragged from their cars & shot.

two most prominenet effects I can think of would be those on bees and birds, who would suffer as they did last year

No birds & bees…I better call the missus & get her home from work sharpish.

hmmm – 24mph for 6 hours. I’m sure I could do that on my FS, I just need to find a 144 mile long downhill.

Argument ref 29’ers & 26’ers and braking bumps. Some test somewhere I read on this – Bump develops matching wheel, so 29’er is different size, so frequency of bump changes, mitigating some of the harshness encountered through 26’er braking bumps. If everyone goes 29’er, braking bumps alter to match frequency & 26’ers then ride better through said bumps, as frequency is different to wheel size. Would like to see more on this.

Also seen a test with 26’ers & 29’ers in racing situation. Test determined that 29’er faster on the open stuff, but as trails tightened, the 26’er had faster direction change & acceleration from corner. The “extra grip” marketing is pushing was balanced by faster turn in & exit by 26’er. The results showed seconds per lap, with variations showing both sizes marginally faster, so end result was that is was purely rider preference & riding style, with neither size showing a big enough gap to prove faster (on that particular course, which was claimed to be chosen as a fair mix).

I don’t think anyone has mentioned people that go right at roundabouts, but use the left hand lane all the way round.
Middle lane drivers (& those on the outside lane at 70mph exactly, nothing on inner two lanes)
Outside lane of dual carriageways at under 60mph drivers (with nothing on driving lane).
People who drive at slower speeds than HGV’s on motorways.
Foglights when it isn’t foggy.
Tail-gaters.
People who drive at 10mph on slightly snowy road…& those who bury throttle in 1st gear to pull away in similar conditions. Can both types please stay at home so I can complete my journey on the intended day & actually get to where I want to be.
The 40 everywhere type…40 in a 60, but hit the 30 limit & don’t slow down.
Drivers with unroadworthy cars, bald tyres, bits falling off etc & also uninsured drivers.
Drink drivers.
Drivers with mobile pressed to their ear as they drive.
Drivers who can’t see beyond the end of their own bonnet…but still venture out on the roads.
Nervous drivers as seen on that TV programme recently…if you’re that bad & that scared, just hand back your licence & the rest of us will feel much safer.
One from using the A5 at the weekend – drivers who sit on the white line of extra wide carriageways – single lane either way, but plenty of overtaking room down the middle (& the pleb in the Jag that almost pulled directly into the path of an oncoming vehicle that I could see from 4 cars back).

Had ti bolts fitted for years without trouble. Had one round off, fixed by bashing a torx head into the allen head & removed (I have had steel bolts seize / round too). I now ensure a good smearing of Finish Line ti prep – I bought a big tin & it should last me forever. Have had British & cheap ebay far eastern rotor bolts, all fitted & running without trouble – the one that rounded was a British manufacturer who sells lots of motorbike bolts, but does a fair range of alu & ti bolts. It is the only bolt from them I’ve had a problem with though, so maybe I was just a little ham-fisted on that occasion?

These include the figures on incapacity benefit. As well as the 878,300 who chose to drop their claims, another 837,000 who did take the a medical test were found to be fit to work immediately, while a further 367,300 were judged able to some level of work.

Might I add that these figures also appear only to take into account the initial rejection of benefits. There are many who have successfully appealed. I can see that those who are housebound have already been mentioned above.

Story I’m aware of;
Local office to attend interview…no parking, office on 2nd floor, no lift!!
Person attending had meningitis, both sets of inner ear nerves killed, so permanent & irrepairable damage. Think vertigo, but much worse & permanent! Initially asked to sit in swivel chair…husband quickly swaps chairs, knowing result if she sits on a swivel chair. Interviewer clearly no understanding of medical history & just see’s a “normal” looking person, missing all signs of gripping chair edges just to stay upright (stress adds to symptoms). Letter comes stating fit to work. Initial contact to appeal…they suggest possible lines of work – none of which safe. Cannot use computer – scrolling of screen sufficient to cause attack, standing – any bump enough to send sprawling, or turning around too quickly, or change in ambient light. Can’t use public transport, as they’re often on the move before seated…another fall.

This is someone who can “manage” their lifestyle & avoid situations that cause problems, but in all reality cannot return to the workplace. There are far worse cases, where people with serious disabilities with need for daily care just to eat & wash are told they are fit to work & have benefits stopped.
We’d all love to pay less tax…but at least get it right. What is the cost in admin to administer this & many other flawed bureaucratic functions within government. Agreed, hit those who are fraudulently claiming…but don’t assume all are guilty immediately.

When I was made redundant a couple of years back I went into the jobcentre, having paid my taxes & NI contributions. Fill in the forms, only to be told that as my wife works (although take home was less than monthly expenditure) I wasn’t entitled to any benefit. We did get a few pence (literally) knocked off the council tax bill…which I had to re-pay when I started work again, as they said they had calculated across the year. Admin to re-claim cost more than what I had received.
Living off £53 for a week…not a problem when IDS will have well stocked cupboards, fridge, wine rack (cellar?) etc. Most could manage for a week, but week in, week out, covering not just your food, but the expected (usual range of monthly bills for utilities etc) & unexpected bills are another matter (cars, kids, clothing, travel etc).
I don’t suppose IDS has ever sat in the cold because he couldn’t afford heating? Many do.

I used to go through the RF BB’s in about 6 weeks. I bought a Superstar ceramic unit & that lasted even less time & with a seized bearing that scored the axle on the cranks. Had slightly better luck with a Hope ceramic, but it didn’t last massively long. I now run Chris King & they just run & run. Lubed them recently, which is ridiculously easy, especially on my RF cranks with self-extractor.
One bonus of the CK design is the plastic sleeve between bearing & axle. The axle that was scored would click during pedalling as it pressed against metal bearing. No issue now, as the plastic sleeve fits snugly between crank & metal of bearing. The score is only minor, so no concern about breakage.
Should add that BB shells are faced & I don’t pressure wash…although the occasional trail centre pressure washing does take place.

Sorry, but any car I buy has to be German. Accept that Toyota & Honda well made too, but generally soul-less…even compared to the germans.
No problem up 1 in 5 climbs with a few inches of snow in a rear wheel drive (large) car – light throttle & winter tyres. Always funny watching news with half an inch of snow & drivers “stranded”, burying their foot in 1st gear – which would get me nowhere on a dry day!
So, small BMW or a VW group car. 1 series remarkably efficient & the VW 1.6 diesels impressive too.

for the rush hour commute

For plod to chase twoccers

What we really need to control crime on the streets

edit: hoping pictures work now

I remember the Boltby Bash – mad descent en masse, with the 90 degree right hander at the bottom…& the felled trees after the big drop should you not make the corner. Remember racing there & some guy in totally tricked out Cannondale with every bit of US made bling you could imagine. Screamed past him on the 1st descent & never saw him again. Also remember racing there & blowing front shifter very early in the 1st lap. couldn’t downshift & rode the whole race in the big ring…not my best result & very sore afterwards!
I used to ride the Eston Hills events regularly too (Middlesbrough). Met JMC there & he asked about my Onza spuds, said they’d been great so far…then in icy cold race couldn’t release from pedals as hit a section you had to dismount…spent several minutes laid there fighting to release my feet.
Recall Eston also had DH & XC race on same day, with one entry covering both. Recall almost taking out a photographer…main line was down a gully, but there was a ridge above, with a drop at the end, but it allowed a straighter line & more speed, except the photographer was stood there. Just missed him & think he fell in the mud.
Ahh – Eston Hills mud…the race where you turned up with narrow tyres with little or no tread for winter races. Tread was pointless in the clay on the front of the hill, but over the back, the descent back & the grass corner onto the finish line were interesting!
Loved the NEMBA & Hamsterley races too – 2 feet of water mid winter in Hamsterley…lovely!!

I use Memory Map & use a gpx file to add to Garmin.

2 broken ribs (1 of them in two places) & a broken bone in my back. I have learned the hard way to keep my core warm or suffer.

I was looking for more riding & less hike-a-bike, hence initial query. Trying to squeeze in fun riding without too much walking – trashed a pair of shoes last time, due to the walking & the constantly wet feet. To have some local knowledge of the sections I’m considering would be really useful to aid with planning & balance off-road riding with covering the miles & covering worthwhile off-road. The bridleway around Harter Fell was hideous & a waste of a climb & descent due to the conditions.

Route last time did go up Ennerdale, over Black Sail, down to Wasdale Head…but it was from there to the bottom of the Walna Scar Road that caused us trouble. Maybe we just got particularly wet conditions & it might be better another time, but hoping someone can shed some light on the options I’ve listed.
From Walna Scar Road to Ambleside, via Little Langdale, Elterwater & Loughrigg Terrace was all great riding, so want to repeat that section. Yet to decide from there. Have choices of going over High Street & dropping down to Bampton, going over Garburn route or do something different & go over Kirkstone Pass & bridleway from Hartsop to run around the shore of Ullswater to sandwick…but high or low option opposite Patterdale?

Beast & MBR at CYB takes care of Saturday. Have you considered Penmachno for Sunday? No facilities there, so if you want cafe, toilets etc I’d stick with Llandegla.

You can fit a DH tyre no problem, suitability to DH racing on a particular rim may be a different matter.
FWIW – have fitted Minion DHR 2.35 & DHF 2.5 to Crest rims. Current Chunky Monkey 2.4 is bigger than those (2.35/2.5 is old Maxxis sizing & come up smaller than the newer 2.25/2.4 sizings). Provided enough pressure to stop tyre roll, the tyres works fine.

The official line is to use them instead of high beam & in conjunction with dipped beam. If it is really foggy, you might find that front fogs & sidelights actually produces less glare (used on country lanes with no other traffic around – dipped flicked back on as cars approach to ensure they definitely see you).
Can we not just shoot people who use rear fogs when raining…it will a) remove idiots from the roads, b) reduce congestion on the roads & c) improve the gene pool by removing idiocy & idleness.

My Garmin 800 bracket is mounted to the stem & has been rock solid. Fits a 70mm stem no problem.

I was wondering why they called them fog lights…seems most people use them when it rains.
Rarely turn mine on. If the car behind is close enough for me to see clearly in my rear view mirror, then safe to say they can see me too.

My experience of ceramic bearings hasn’t been brilliant. Foolishly bought a Superstar ceramic BB – it exploded mid ride (fitted about 6 weeks) & by the time I got home had scored the axle on the cranks. Superstar told me it was incorrectly fitted / misused. Bought a Hope Ceramic BB & bearings died fairly quickly, but nowhere near as quick as the superstar. Now run Chris King’s & they’re bombproof. I’ll stick with steel bearings from now on.

Sorry, should have worded a little more clearly – intention was to show that a relatively short journey can still be sufficient to allow the car to automatically run the regen cycle without any intervention. Some need only 5 minutes at an rpm consistently above a given figure, with many at about 1800rpm.

£400 – I wish. Hubs are £300+
Bi-annual? Where have you been for the last 12 months?
Ride midweek last week dry & grippy, weekend was wet & sloppy, lots of mud & standing water.
Don’t use mtb on road – have a CX frame built up. Sold the road bike as found it less & less comfortable as each year passed by.

Newer diesels with DPF’s fitted are the one’s affected by short journeys.
Generally most can cope with lowish (40mph+) sustained speeds to regenerate the DPF, although I’ve heard some need 2500rpm+ for 10-15 minutes.
So long as the car has regular runs that include 5-10 mins of reasonable speeds, most cars can run the cleaning (regenerative) cycle to maintain the DPF. If not, then if you have the occasional longer journey, wind up the speed (or hold a lower gear) for recommended time period to enable required rpm’s for DPF cycle to occur.

Aspens for low rolling resistance & dry terrain, Advantage/Chunky for wet or mixed conditions.
Same wheels means no re-setting brakes every time you switch wheels. Also handy as HT & FS share same set-up that way.
Have a flat bar, disc equipped CX frame set up for road use, with Conti GP 4 season tyres, so no need for road tyres on mtb wheels. Not as fast as an all out road bike, but a damn sight more comfortable!

Two identical sets – one with Aspen 2.25’s, the other with Advantage 2.25 rear, Chunky Monkey Extreme 2.4 front (seems a bit extreme on light wheels, but only 700g for the tyre)

American Classic disc hubs, Sapim CX-Ray spokes, Stans Crest rims.

Solid & dependable, but then I run large volume tyres (tubeless with sealant), which helps protect the wheels.

DezB – tuned 😉 BMW

Why email? Just drop them from PC / laptop straight into dropbox folder. They are then immediately viewable on your ipad or anything else with dropbox installed.

Dropbox – if using word files, save them as pdf 1st – saves buying additional software to open the Word doc. & the Apple softare isn’t especially cheap.

Diesel every time for me, purely as a personal preference. 230bhp, 330lb/ft torque (450Nm), sub 7s 0-60, 60+ mpg on 70mph motorway with cruise control, still 50+ mpg at motorway “outside lane speeds”.
Good torque makes for easy overtaking on rural roads too. Hate to see cars try to overtake & still in same place at end of straight, having barely got alongside…decide quickly, get out, get past, get in & reduce speed from overtake.
If short urban journeys only & no longer journeys / open roads, then small petrol engine makes most sense.

It has to be the chocolate hob nob.
Good resistance to dunking, no messy sludge at the bottom of your cup, lovely oat biscuit & chocolate…
Why did I read this thread? Working at home & having to wait until 5 when I allow myself a couple of biscuits, yet biscuits are there in the cupboard waiting for me.
Might have to console myself with a spin on the bike & push some work back to this evening.

Is this the newer Kashima forks or older Fox Floats? My 2009’s ride better than my 2012 Kashima’s – or seems to feel that way (old one’s on HT, new on FS).
Expected the Kashima’s to feel plusher – to me it feels as though the old forks offer better plushness through the travel, the Kashima’s just seem to feel a bit harsh in comparison.

Front will be 23T – not a typo!
Have 20-34 spread on one bike & have no issues. I ride with a low cadence, so lower gearing helps compared to those who seem to spin 80+ everywhere. Ride varied terrain, some with very steep & technical climbs, so do like to be able to stay on the bike rather than walk.

800mm width? No singletrack riding with those – My Havens are 711mm according to specs & they’re wide enough that a couple of local singletrack track spots require the bike to be steered through with a steer from one side to the other along with a lean, to ease the bars through as the bars are wider than the gap.
Can’t see the issue with made in Taiwan – most stuff is these days. I buy for how well the kit works, or at a budget, not for where it is made.
Do you drive a British made car too?

I have a ti frame & a full susser.
I like a hardtail for winter use & also for a more “connected” ride feel sometimes.
I’d run alu framed HT’s for years, but the last one never really seemed to fit me right. Bought a 456 steel & while I liked the fit, it felt as harsh as the alu frame is replaced. I then took advantage of an On One sale about 18 months ago & bought the Ti version of the 456, along with the Van Nicholas layback ti post. It is definitely smoother than the steel 456 or any of the alu frames I’ve ridden. Not as smooth as a super-lightweight steel frame, but the 456 is a tougher bike & designed to cope with a long fork. It doesn’t have that two wheel steer feel that some really light frames have either.
Ti frame will still leave you beaten up after a long ride, but waaay better than the 456 steel for a couple of hours. For really rough terrain I’d still take the FS (SC Blur).