Thanks guys, Dispute opened seller has till 17 Nov.

Had an email a week ago saying he’d been away and will post 24hr courier. 🙄
But no replies to my emails.

pain in arse really as new frame will arrive thursday so will (if it turns up) sell this straight away.

I’m asking for peoples opinion.

Was asking what most people would wait, AS in do I sound like a d!ck raising a dispute because my bike hasn’t turned up or do people think that’s fair game.

Don’t worry about a chain slipping off because its Ramped, Did it slip off before.

I’d go with above if you want 34t get the file out.

Either:

1. What/where do you ride or style of riding you do.

2. which looks coolest

I followed a mate of mine on a pugsley down a 20% road hill and he was doing 34mph (i had a computer of my bike) and nothing like what you described happened.

Chris King do crown races that come in various heights

http://chrisking.com/parts/baseplates

I honestly can’t see any company wasting their time making converters for Square taper. (I could be wrong)

But you could look at having some press fit sleeves made with the OD of the BB92 and ID of a THREADLESS square taper BB.

Or look into getting OD of some DMR wondercups being machined down to BB92,

If you wheels are good stop being a tart and stick with em.

My friends at the pub think I’m a niche freak for riding a bike regardless of tyre size, brand etc.

There all into this Liverunited and Arsnal Wednesday sh!te

No helmet 🙁

depends on brand, Some need a few hours work some around 20mins

usually: front wheel, bars, seat, pedals, check over everything..

I recently bought a set of 17″ alloys from a scrapyard, ok condition for £50 (few scuffs but winter wheels) and brand new conti winter tyres from local garage for £440 for the set including fitting.

thought that was a good deal, However it was last summer when winter tyres weren’t in demand.

Great film, I have the DVD but doesn’t work on my player.

The lass in it has great tats too 😆

If its a 135mm rear the dishing will be different.

some fatbikes have 170mm rear hubs which would run a 29er rear with no probs.

I’ve run a rear 29er wheel in my fat bike fork.

Shep; I have built up another brand of UK frame…I won’t post it on here out of sympathy.I went from Braemar to Blair Atholl on it today and it is ace… May have to source drops mind..

Come on get some pics up..

(Poor Man’s Version)

Bob Jackson – Had a frame done by him a couple of years a go was very good.

(based in leeds)

This is a great thread. 😀

I’m sure if you started a thread about any frame with faults you will have at least 3 replies from people who have also broken one or know someone who has broken one.

Go try one, speak to people who own them and make up your own mind. I have 2 pace bikes and a surly.

I have broken:

1 pace
1 orange
2 commencals
1 trek
1 iron horse

In the cases where it wasn’t my fault I have got replacements without any issues, probaly because i’m not a d!ck who doesn’t expect the moon on a stick.

(not saying anyone is in this thread)

Surly 1×1 is the best SS bike I have ever ridden.

Great value for money, simple effective dropouts.

Also there is the Karate monkey if you fancy big wheels.

You can get allen head qr’s that would fit a hope hub.

but really a chain tug/ tensioner would stop the hub moving.

You can get allen head qr’s that would fit a hope hub.

but really a chain tug/ tensioner would stop the hub moving.

If some copper wants to sit through my Forum activity and ebay account he’s welcome too.

But realistically if it just “people who arouse suspicion” then suppose its not that bad. But in practise that rarely works.

nope.

1. undo seatclamp
2. put weight on seat
3. when seat is low do up seat clamp
4. reverse to go up but stand off the saddle

Used to have one of these in the early 90’s on my paper round bike. was “wicked”

Cotic are doing a load of Alfine wheelsets at a good price.

and I think on-one too.

I’d keep the brakes and the Alfine, personally – you’ve obviously decided hub gears are what you want and I really rate Magura kit.

Best response to a thread. Ever. baffle the situation.

early ashima rotors kept failing because they where supposed to be fitted the wrong way round.

I have some of the new ones and have used them for over a year with no issues.

Single speed bikes, oh dear. Why go back in time and ride one. Maybe you’re an attention seeker or you cannot adjust gears, most SS women and bean lickers. Most SS people use them as an excuse for being slow, you do not fit into the Purist category, unless you where there in the conception, Re-pack

A purist is one who desires that an item remain true to its essence and free from adulterating or diluting influences

OK, these are all stating the bleeding obvious, but I genuinely am baffled:
– how big a front ring?
– Wtf is up with those wheels?
– and why is the headtube a cut’n’shut job?

In 20 years someone will ask that about your bike.

Best answer is “why not”

Go 2×1

Singlespeed rear, hammerschmidt front

SS for flat, Knock it down for big hills.

I have used a few chain tensioners over the years and the only two i’d use are the Surly Singulator and Pauls melvin. (own both and they have been one a few frames)

Cheaper ones do work. But for muddy damp conditions its usually for me a false economy.

a 29er would have no rolled over all that no probs. 😉

I’d love it if he didn’t have a ride for next year.

There’d be hell on if a footballer caused this much drama

If by sliding dropout you mean one like this:

Then yes I have in a Kona Unit and a QR hub will be fine..

I can remember when everyone said suspension would never catch on. It slows you down, takes power out. FS bikes don’t accelerate as fast as rigids etc etc. 🙄

I couldn’t give a toss if my bike accelerates slower because its got bigger wheels. I test rode a 29er and in my opinion the bigger wheels give a better ride for what I want and enjoy. I will never go back to 26″.

Try it, if you don’t enjoy the ride don’t buy it. but not all 29ers are the same just like 26ers.

just seen your FS post duckman. I’d think you’d be very surprised with the ride of the swift forks. I tried a few forks, niner/white bros and even an enabler with fat tyre and the original fork. The original fork always won hands done for comfort and handling (2.35 tyres helped the comfort too). I think quiet a few swift owners will probably agree.

Surprisingly good actually. They where great for long rides across the moors and laps of dalby. Techy stuff was hard at first but second time out I just got used to it.

I did find them hard work on steep descents though.

🙁

9 Times out of Ten people get bulls mixed up. My inlaws have a few herds of cattle including 9 female Highlanders who campers at their site always comment on those “wooley bulls”.

Sell your mtb. Get a reasonably priced canoe and a cheaper bike.