The cyclist didn’t want to either be stopped unnecessarily or listen to the copper’s opinion, neither would I, and neither would most other folk

Most other cyclists wouldn’t swerve out in front of a car let alone a cap car either.

If the cyclist had looked over his shoulder and moved out into clear space or waited the whole situation could have been avoided.

It was kind of a forgone conclusion; like dodgy gay porn, it was dick on dick action.

Nail on head.

Its more looking at the fun option. If I need to be at work quicker I take the road bike.

The forest if more appealing. I’ve tried a cx bike in the past but a couple of the rougher lanes my 29er with wider tyres was just more comfortable.

The schwalbe marathon mondial tyres are looking like favourites.

Sort of agree, except the act of indicating is just that; an indication of intentions. It doesn’t give the rider/driver an express right to carry out the manoeuvre, just lets other road users know what he/she would like to do.

Fair point as he could have just ridden straight into the path of the copper with or without his arm sticking out.

If he cycled out without indicating he deserved to get pulled over. Any other road user would.

If he did, can’t see a problem with his riding. Its not how I would personally ride but don’t have an issue really with others doing it.

There was a load of dawes galaxy forks on the bay for around £30.

Disc and rack mounts.

[/url]2016-02-12_07-57-30 by james shepherd[/url], on Flickr[/img]

I had the Charge Filter which is the same frame.

It was an excellent commuter bike. I used it on road and fire roads.

Just a tad small for me.

[/url]2016-02-12_07-56-38 by james shepherd[/url], on Flickr[/img]

I’ve ran both salsa Cromoto 29er forks and Surly ECR 29+ rigid forks on mine. Much preferred the slacker angle of the Surly ones.

Saying that it now has a Salsa enabler fork with a fat front.

Just dropped you a mail toys

Only after the one seat :)

Crankboy thanks but really after rack mounted.

Toys drop me line, email in profile

Upgrade what you have.

Use the wheels you have for bad weather and others for nice.

Spec down the chain/cassette if you have too for winter.

Keep it clean and all will be fine.

Do all bananas not come with a banana guard as standard?

You’ve obviously never had a banana and a can of Rice pudding in your bag together. Banana Gets mushed. :(

Which SMP did you go for Ton.

I’m looking between the Hell and the Extra

banana guard

I’m not a fan of a squashed banana.

Bump, in case any Mummys and Daddys are about

I did very similar at a skatepark in burnley. I walked/hobbled on it for a few hours thinking it was a twisted ankle.

I spent 12 days in Preston hospital waiting for swelling to go down for surgery. A couple of plates,a bag of screws and 4 months in Plaster and I was starting to walk again.

What I can recommend:

– DONT put any pressure on it
– Rest
– Do the physio stuff

Almost ten years later now and it aches in wet/cold weather. I also don’t have full range of movement, probally because I didn’t listen to the Physio.

Hope you heal better than I did.

I had a pair of stans alphas for a few months. They where made of cheese. Swapped them from some Halo Aerorage rims. Really Pleased.

Tyres where also a **** to fit on them.

I have a set of Hplus son TB14 on my fixed gear bike. They look really nice but do seem to wear quicker than a open pro.

How is that possible? The cleat mounting completely different..

Some shimano road shoes come with mounting for SPD and SPD Sl.

If using mtb SPD it will make it even more of a nightmare to look after the soles.

Another spd user here. Same shoes for all bikes.

You can get lightweight spd road pedals that offer a large platform like the A600. I had a pair though they felt excellent but the bearings didn’t last.

Now I just use the cheapest spd pedals till they die. which is a fair while even in all year round commuting and road riding.

All ok for me. Craft gloves and smartwool socks under northwave boots.

Very icey and snow on top of the hill. A couple of inches have now layer so going to be fun going home. Thankfully I’ve got ice tyres.

Go ask bike shop nicely.

They might glue it back in cheap if (When) fishers tell you to do one.

No harm in asking.

Best bit of my ride is the scenery as the seasons change. Also the big hill I go up. I have a choice of two Sutton Bank (25%) or White Horse Bank (25%), Good fun going home. I can also take my mtb and ride the Sutton bank trails or play in the woods.

Is it the pads sticking?

Try moving them back with a screwdriver.

Also as above check the wheel is centred.

I have a Brick Lane bikes freewheel that is really good and easily matches the white industries on performance and life.

Size is the key issue, for 135mm (MTB) A deore hub with SS kit is pretty good bombproof buy. (unless you can find a DMR or Surly)

Any less 120-130 any track hub with a freewheel thread and sealed bearings. The bearings are usually very easy to get hold of when they die.

IF you want real maintenance free go fixed.

Danish oil will protect it. Varnish would crack under the heat.

2 or 3 coats of oil would give it a deeper golden colour.

link

Blackburn outpost,

Can be mounted to your v brake mounts, also on the axle. Doesn’t need any braze ones.

I have the front version on my tourer. Excellent Rack

Distance 4,074.9 km
Time 194h 37m
Elev Gain 47,468 m
Rides 172

Pleased with that as had some time off riding this year.

BMX hub like profile with a longer axle/female bolts??

Mind you, you don’t get more tarty than Pauls or Phil Wood

Support good business not local business.

Get the best average from:

Product
Price
Service

loads of fixed/freewheel hubs out there.

I have a paul one thats super nice but pricey,

heres a surly one:

Clicky

Novatec, Miche, Halo all do versions also.

Some you can space out to 126mm with spacers and others you’ll have to bend the frame down to 120mm.

Thanks mcobie, very much appreciated. I have a good physio i’ll be seeing at some point soon.

I was lucky in terms of no bone damage. But the cutter effectively took a deep groove down to the bone. So all that is there in terms of tissue is gone. Nicely healing and i’ll still have some feeling from undamaged nerves.

I’ll have to try a few things and see what works.

Excuse to buy various handlebars i guess :)

A couple of years ago I was talking to a chap in York station who had locked his bike near mine.

Some doughnut had locked their bike to his!

He wasn’t impressed and was asking every cyclist if they knew who’s bike it was. (I’d be pretty pee’d off too.)

Thanks for the input guys, I have a gyro ball so will give it try and see what happens with that.

I have ergons on my mtb, so might use that for commuting to see if I can hold them for longer, its gripping for prolonged time that’s causing the problem (i believe)

I got a very posh custom pub bike.

I figured mtb fashions and standards will come and go but I’ll always need to get to the pub.

Will be ridden on tarmac, gravel, cattle grids & cowshit. Rolling resistance not as important as puncture resistance

= Marathons Or (marathon racers)

Will be ridden on tarmac, gravel, cattle grids & cowshit. Rolling resistance is not as important as puncture resistance

= GP4

Marathons IMHO for what your doing will give you the best all round performance.

Personally is use Gator hardskins in summer and Top contacts in winter.

This Charge

or my ridgeback

Carradice or a framebag for me.

I’ve had a few sets of hope and superstar.

Recently got some SuperStar Tesla Hubs on stans rims for the roadie. Really nice set.

Would happily buy superstar again. Local bearing place does bearings for about £6-7 a pair. Freehubs again are easy to get direct.

Bump for the weekenders

I wouldn’t use a light like that when riding with others.

Currently I have 2 cateye TL-LD610 lights which a few people I work with have said make me very visible. I also think the PDW/Smart 2wattish lights are excellent. Both are a lot cheaper than the blaze and you could buy 2 for less to run one flashing and one static.