I did it, bit too much fireroad for me.

Thought the marshals and all the people at the start finish area where excellent.

If i could choose I would have been much happier just doing the bits in the forest. Didn’t enjoy the Moorland bits at all just felt like a slog to add miles.

good work

Bit of an update.

So i went down the route of buying Scowl’s Xtracycle. Thanks, really pleased.

Built it around an one one 456 frame, ogre forks and a load of other parts from my bin.

[/url]Untitled by singlespeed_shep[/url], on Flickr[/img]

It really is a joy to ride, and loads of fun. Just waiting on 2x kids seats, Went with T1000’s recommendation of polisport. So expecting them anyway now. The Hamax will go in the shed ready for another bike if needed.

Cheers all

This is my current setup and wanting to go more compact.

Untitled by singlespeed_shep[/url], on Flickr

I was asking about the Hamax as i have one. I like it and want to try avoid any extra purchases.

Interesting comment about the UTE, I was favouring the smaller wheels if possible. I have a tandem with 26″ wheel and really like how that feels. I’ve also tried an unloaded Big dummy and really liked that.

I do like the look of the box type ones, but want to keep to the long tail. Space is also an issue. I’m also trying to stick to a 1 in 1 out policy so the stooge will be going.

It would be nice to find a good frames but they just don’t seem cost-effective vs a bike.

Is the freehub fixed yet?

+1 I wanna know

Have you had a look at race bmx cranks, a few lightweight options at 135mm from the likes of sinz etc.

Racing bmx often offers better kit for kids than mtb.

I’m a cabinet maker from Near Thirsk so will ask around when i’m back in tomorrow. As i’m only down the road from you. I don’t know anyone off the top of my head who does it. Its pretty specialist. I tend to only work with wood and granite.

I would have suggested rubbing a colour matched adhesive into the crack and polishing it. Something like a 2pack epoxy if often used.

The above advice of speaking to the distributer would be my first line of call. They will be far more qualified than anyone to let you know. They will advise you on home repairs and repair companies.

The warranty claim is also worth asking about as Corian is pretty damn tough and shouldn’t easily crack its why people chose it over granite.

IS it something you could do yourself? how deep are the cracks? are the on an unsupported part of the worktop i.e. over the overhang?

is it white?

Where in North Yorkshire are you?

In his defence it covers everywhere east of the a1 pretty much.
Your’re right. Don’t bother, nothing to see.

+1 stay away, I like the fact all the tourists stick to the dales and don’t bother us on the moors too much.

Cities in general are always a disappointment, much rather go to Harrogate than Leeds.

One thing to consider is trying a different headset,

I had a Kona single speed with a straight 1″ 1/8th headset. A hope headset slipped straight in and out. A Chris King needed a bearing press.

He rode a bike with a cracked headset and didn’t notice? i’d have thought it would handle like a dog, but i’ve never had it happen to me.

I really think he’ll struggle to get anywhere when trying to claim on damage from using a broken part. As TJ says look at other options to fit it. Seek advice from a frame builder if the LBS can’t help.

Another moon user here. really good lights. The saddle rail mount is pretty handy too if you can’t use your seat post or want a neat fitting.

I had a ridgeback touring bike with alfine 8.

I found 42-20 was personally a great ratio. I could get up a 20% climb with that. I would top out around 22mph-25mph on the flat. (spinning like mad)

i have a few sets of sks full guards on a few bikes, certainly worth it for commuting. They really do stop 99.9% of crap off the road hitting you.

A homemade or bought extra long flap is also worth it to help keep crud off feet.

I work for a small firm that hand makes kitchens, (amongst other things) People are always surprised how competitive our prices are. Have a look local and see what small firms are doing.

I never get how the likes of wren etc get away with what they sell at those prices for mass produced.

Also speak to a local tradesman you trust and see what he likes to work with. I know joiners that can make an Ikea/wickes mash-up bargin look like a kitchen ten times its prices with a few extras and good workmanship.

I don’t know what the “official” stance is.

I’ve just parked in the main carpark, not had any issues.

As far as I’m away the only gate that gets locked is the one by the pond at the bottom of adderstone.

There’s a village and bed and breakfasts so can’t lock em in.

Keep me posted on the 20″

I take it the seat stays will be higher? That was my problem with posts they where on there limits.

Try big bear bikes in Pickering or eds bikes in snainton I’ve seen them up on a night before.

I’m from near Thirsk and ride round Sutton bank/Kilburn/yearsley a fair bit on eves

I know a few people who would be up for a night ride there if your stuck. It just wouldn’t be regular.

He should have got that sentence just for the police chase let alone killing someone.

I love mine, but would like it too be slightly bigger so i could run a dropper, then it would be perfect.

Also mounts on the forks.

I’ve looked into it and a quarter of the route will be signposted. So as ir_bandito said it will probably be run ins to controls. Route sheets and gps to get you about.

SChwalbe marathon mondials for me or slime inner tubes. I don’t want to deal with the hassle of punctures on a commute.

Worth the extra weight for a “work bike”

Strictly not allowed. Although how they police it is anyone’s guess.

For 2017 it is, £100 to register your car.

Its not. Route and gpx published in advance, the rest is up to you. There will be a few signs to guide you into control points, but not many.
I pre-rode pretty much all of the course in various chunks so had a good idea what to expect.

I checked up on this and there will be signposting. although not the full route.

A lot has changed since the last one. In some ways i think its a shame, its different to old school addax, but on the other hand it really is opening it up to the new market of “adventure riders” and the more riders the better on an event of this scale.

For a lot of people also the ability to enter without a SR series of events, 200,300,400 and 600k certainly is bonus.

I ran rivendell silver shifters (friction) with a 10 speed 11-36 cassette and 9 speed deore rear mech no issues.

I now have 9 speed XT with Sunrace shifters.

Will AUK rules apply for bikes – mudguards, specifically?

Not that i am aware off, Very few events now require mudguards. But think seriously about it, Its a seriously long time in the saddle without worrying about a wet arse, also think about riding in groups, if you get others wet they won;t want to ride with you, So less help and company.

Both Paris Breast Paris and London Edinburgh London have become very laid back in the traditional rules.

Lots of people had support vehicles in the last PBP. For LEL there will be bag drops so if can run battery etc you can place them in your bag along with a change of clothing that will be sent to the relevant control. Or get a mate to follow you in a car charging your lights during the day.

I’m pretty sure it will all be signposted as well so you will only need a garmin to track. (Unless you get lost)

If your on Facebook the LEL2017 Facebook group is full of help and organisers/control staff regularly go on so can help with any advice.

@whitestone: How did you attached the bottle on the downtube? I’m suffereing from the nowhere to put a bottle syndrome.

Another option, i’m just about to order one for my stooge.

mount skidmore bottle cage adaptor[/url]

a rohlof style chain tensioner like this one, If you still fancy going down that route.

Would allow you (depending on rings) a double up front with a alpine at the rear.

Although i was very surprised what i could get up with mine

42 Chainring, 18t alfine cog. and had a 25% climb every day on my commute.

I do like swifts though :)

[/url]12742385_10156585769150008_7381167338296876281_n by singlespeed_shep[/url], on Flickr[/img]

This was my alfine 8 road build. (Sorry not the best view of the shifter)

I started with the versa shifters which i didn’t like. Then went to j-tek which was great but i smashed it in a crash. I didn’t want to fork out another £80 for a shifter so looked at other options.

Here i have a Hubbub Rolloff adaptor which i picked up on sale. which plugs into the end of drop bars. Then Fitted a Nexus 8 grip shift shifter £12 and it worked a treat. The shifter has a barrel adjust which makes setting up and adjusting an alpine a doddle.

Hubbub at SJS[/url]

You could probably make one from an old 22mm handlebar.

Specialised Pizza Rack,

Great rack, nice large flat top and still takes pannier bags

I’ll be at the Thirsk control. Thinking about either:

Riding to London after my duties are done and train back. or Train down and ride up the night before.

Really is a great event.

Rigid for me, Although it gets used as a commuter more than anything.

[/url]Untitled by singlespeed_shep[/url], on Flickr[/img]

For those fancying a dabble in unicycling:

Ed Pratt round the worl on a Unicycle[/url]

I have two sets of alloy cowbells so certainly will look at these.

what other thread / what issues?

Have an RC129 running SS – what do I need to know?

From my experiences if it has lasted more than a couple of rides you’ll be fine.

I had cracked downtubes, right behind the headset. New frames are tapered and beefed up somewhat over the RC129 and the other problem iI had was rear triangle out of line.

Altura/Endura will see you right. good value and easy to find. They seem to be reasonable sizing too compared to the italians roadie brands.

Over shoes can be a nightmare, Sizing seems to be lucky dip. Have a look at planet x they do cheap ones that will see you through the winter. also come in packs with socks, buff and gloves.

If you can afford gore-tex mob shoes then go for it. Best investment i’ve ever made.

Can you slide a seat post inside it and see if the tube is deformed?

I have a Klean Kanteen insulated cup i use. but not in a pub,

Can’t you get a lemonade or something? or how about go to a cafe?

We should take a leaf from skiing where slower riders already down the trail have right of way and the onus is on the faster skier behind to pass safely…..problem solved but there’s so much ego in MTB, at the moment I despair at some of the conversations I overhear at trail centres.

+1

NO reason why you can’t hang back on a bit of single track until there is a clear place to overtake. I’ve ridden with riders who are hard of hearing and have no chance of hearing someone come up behind them. But do keep an eye over there shoulder. But this isn’t always practical especially on technical sections.

What drill bits would anyone recommend?

Driver bits:
Milwaukee are pretty good, Dewalt seem to last.

Hafelle ones are pretty good, I tend to use them the most.

Taking time to use the right sized pozi bit will always make them last longer, also using a low torque setting on your drill with a low speed.

If you use an impact driver you really need proper impact bits or they smash bits in no time.

Drill bits.

Mikita, i’ve had no problems with Bosch or Titan from screw fix.

All depends on what your drilling into.