excellent

i got one once with more like 2m of lever, but was a steel frame.

don’t forget to turn a little in both directions, back wards and forwards, gradually increasing, and tending toward unscrewing obviously, if you do get it moving.

and try to be patient with whatever you do use as penetrating fluid (like i manage to be all the time). my brother just got some awkward bolt out of an engine by applying wd every day for a week or 10 days. it just came eventually.

good info neila

i feel like out of the things i’ve bought, it’s probably (2nd hand) hope pro 2 evo hubs, which have seen my through numerous frames and forks (3 each end) with adaptors

we should start some sort of swap-shop

best comment to maccruiskeen : )

buying another is not an option. i’m in france. those type of shops have not been open for a good couple of weeks.

also, my workshop is FULL of safe places, about half of it is safe places! so if i try to put somethign else in a safe place it could be one of many. it’s impossible!

currently i’m thinking it’s the classic i’ve-got-it-in-my-hand-and-i’m-just-going-for-a-pee-and-it’s-gone…

Ardeche

i’ve warrantied a set of sektors for a creaking CSU through bike24, no problem whatsoever.
was so simple they hardly had to communiacte with me, just told me to send them in. after that was plain sailing

bump
still wandering if anyone can say for sure if the CR kit will go in a B1, post 2018 pike?

reminds me of the This American Life story about a squirell and the police.
had me crying with laughter.

here it is:
https://www.thisamericanlife.org/510/fiasco/act-three-0

right thanks again everyone. just need to find one to buy now! the one i was after got sold…

thanks ben, what i thought

yep, its cupping. they seem to be rectified edges (not sure what they call that in English).
they ate spot on 250mm; there’s no dift over 3 or 4 courses.
but the face to face test shows a little dicrepancy.
laying a few out tho it look manageable, so i think ill go ahead

that’ll be it i guess. they seem to be spanish, but who knows? daft innit that rather than make them right in the first place, they go to the trouble of printing on the packaging.
but i gues it could just be arse covering and they’re achly fine.

best finish this coffee and get some out and see ey?

right thanks everyone.
doesn’t saound that practicle as a work van then. tho i do only put plasterboard in about for times a year i’d say, and don’t need it to go in lengthwise.

other option would be a long version partner/berlingo, with the second row of gruau fitted seats which fold forward. generally for work i don’t need the full volume of the scudo then clearly, though it is more often handy to have the length inside to shove in a couple of sticks of wood and close the door…

yes, i didn’t mean there’s no difference in the actual air springs, but maybe no differnces in the rest of the fork which might affect my fitting the coil kit.

also good to know about lengths travel wheel sizes. so means if the kit will go in 2018+ forks it will give 140 in all wheels sizes, assuming that’s what i ends up given, whereas in A1/A2 forks it will give differnt travel depending on wheels size, ie 29er would be shorter?

i’ve gleaned that debonair upgrade kits come with shorter airshaft for a given amount of travel. apparently due to different fitting of bottom circlip/seal plate hingy.
this suggests that the shaft in my 140mm coil kit will give me 140 in either A1/A2 or in B1 / post 2018 / boost forks.

it seems like the only difference then is the different threads on the aircap.

if that’s the case the kit’ll be fine in any pike becasue it just uses the original aircap…

and yes if you could check shaft lengths rick that’d be great

excellent.
thanks eveyone. and thanks again for selling me it nick ; )

so it sounds like top cap won’t affect compatibilty.

also, when you say the post 2018 use a different length, is it longer or shorter?

ok thanks Rick Draper. Even between boost and non-boost A1/2 there are different threads right?

i guess i’ll wait and see when the kit arrives, but looking at his site, i’m not even sure it comes with a top cap. is it possible it could just use the air top cap?

haha! and the pike part?

thnaks everyone, i left off this job for a bit as i ordered an eazibleed type kit to try pushing through from the other side. unbelievably still no result…

i swapped the cylinders cos of a snapped bleed nipple on one of the old ones, and i’d had the back axle right off to do the bushes. so problems just compounded since then! joy.

so today i finally get round to trying the eazibleed type kit. it really didn’t push any fluid through at all. and in fact when i let off the pressure it pushed back lots of old manky fluid into my nice clean stuff. GRRRR! not the first time either.

i’ve tried opening up the rear brake regulator too, as thought that was a good suggestion, but still no moverment.

feels like i must be missing something really obvious. but i have read that some systems need special kit. i do have a manual whaich describes the procedure as normal, apart from order back-froint-back-front.

i have done this before btw. but it was on a renault 4. so pretty straightforward

ah right yes, thanks spooky, rear brake compensator. had forgotten about that. will try your tip, thanks.

so vehicles with and generally not have brake compensators then, or just depends?

it does seem like it might have an airlock tho, as a bit of fluid is creeping through, as if round the side of the air bubble, so to speak

that sounds bad, but i’m pretty sure it doesn’t have abs.
mk 1 fiat scudo el 2001

Muppet medal of the day? of the year!

course i’d never do anything equally stupid

thanks clubby, that’s how my current only are. occasional stones and bit of stick get shock out the front. doesn’t seem to be damaging the brace tho.

but yes so a 29er wheel and fork with 2.8 might be the same

ok thanks timmy. is that in 275 or 29?

turns out i don’t need mud clearance. i live somewhere dry and pretty much never have to deal with it. just now i run a 2.8 in a regular. clearance is far from ideal, but i can get away with it.

yesterday i found this article:
https://www.bikemag.com/industry-news/first-look-2016-rockshox-products/
which said:
All Boost 29 forks are also capable of fitting a 27.5 x 3.0 (plus-size) tire

so that answers part of my question.

either way from what you say it sounds like 2017 and before don’t have as much clearnce for 2.8″s as 2018 onwards..

don’t think i’m up for investing in a mesh network.

with the current tpe 1 box it’s not that bad. can get it in all the places if i’m positioned right. that’s a mk1 orange livebox, with fibre i’ll be on a mk4 which will presumably be better and i think it does dual band 2.5 and 5ghz

so if i’m on repeaters through cable will they each be seperate acces points so i’d need to cahnge if i move to the bedroom for example?

fuel ex? 2017-19. some cheap ones about. the blurb says it’d work on your stuff anyway
yes i have just bought one, or a frame anyway

i reckon I’ll be running the link in high as it’ll be b+wheels, at least to start with, and apparently the BB is already pretty low. this could achly be one of the more problematic parts of 530mm A-C. will heve to see.

eventually i plan to replace the forks with 29/+ forks and the maybe build up some 29er wheels. then i can experiment

thanks vino. and you find that nice? don’t fancy 140mm?

bump
clearly i pick dull subjects!

it’s not overfilled, i did it correctly myself and checked as otsdr described, and have been using for a good few months since, before the problem started.

the compression lock and adjuster appear to be working fine, but soething may have been stuck and just come loose when i emptied the oil out. seems unlikely tho that somehting could block the port but that it would still open and close normally

i guess i’ll give it all a good clean, bung it back together and swap out the rebound damper for another i have.

yes would have been good to pull the comp dapmer first as you say otdsr, and cycle the rebound befoer emptying oil. that would have given a good indication

yep makes sense, but lowers seemed to have the right amount of oil come out when i pulled them off. ~ 6ml each side
but that’s the only thing that makes sense so far.

i guess i just do all the seals and pop it back together

ok so yeh, blocking is of hydrolock nature as you said warpcow, but oil is not in the lowers; just the normal 6ml in either side as expected. but it’s deffy not spring related.

so when i had lowers off, i pushed on the rebound damper foot and it stopped short.
but how do i isolate whether is the compression or rebound damper that’s at fault?
they would both appear to let oil through in the compression direction (when i blow through them).
i have spare rebound dampers so i guess i could try bunging one of them in.

on compression, does the rebound damper both move through the oil, and push some of the oil up into the compression damper, at a controlled rate?

it would seem to be behaving as if there’s simply too much oil in the leg, but i would’ve noticed that straight away…

ahh great, sounds obvious now i hear it!

yep must be that. easy fix then

righto, will have to wait and see then.

if i need to change cranks, what types other than shimano work with bb92?

Raceface? GXP? anything with 24mm axle?

good info, thanks