Yep oil/ grease through transfer port most likely or it was semi blocked & has cleared.
Have you still got those Marx air forks too btw? :-D

Velocipeide jockies ?

Dandyhorse pilots?

They can be a pain in the arse, as they tend to get a battering and covered in crap, so tend to wear faster that forks & shocks.
At 3 years old with no maintainace i’m Guessing ( have serviced hundreds of these) that it will be worn but a service may sort it. Maybe worth sending away for a quote & then decide

Will ride a bit weird, reduce the travel a bit ;-)

Depends how much air, it’d need a fair bit.
Main issue is the effect on the damping as it will become inconsistant as the shock is worked heat rises.

Aside of damage to shaft, perished seals which would be sorted by service ( seals) not a lot else to go wrong.

Hmm, hard to tell without seeing it.
They’re a due a full service every 200 hours/ 1 year according to Fox but every 18 months advisable so of not been done recently a full service is advisable

IFp is air charged ( if piggy back has air valve)
If you repressuize and compress shock & is squelchy you have air in oil

Should do, don’t compress it with the iFp pressure let out iFp is likely to burp into the oil. Which’ll mean it needs a bleed or rebuild

Most are, although i’d Always give them a quick bleed especially if hoses are shortened

Why’d the baker have brown hands?

He kneaded a poo 💩

HAve a bac one on the shop, it’s ok it not great on heavier soiling.
Would prefer a Henry as we’ve got at home.
In laws have adyson one that’s better but short battery life.
They just feel a bit disposable really imo

iFp is most likely to have leaked air into oil, full service will solve it. If under 12 month send back on warranty

With the monarch check the seal between the can and main shock body ( large diameter one) is seated properly & doesn’t roll when screwing the van back on.
I’d also put a tiny bit of thread lock on the threads, as have seen a few come loose ( yes, weird I know! As no rotational force on them but still did it?!)
Aside of that as above and a dob of maxima or similar oil for lubrication. Anodising on the body tubes used to be patchy quality so worth doing fairly regularly :-D

Cheers for the psa, just ordered an xl in black (all they had left)

I’m trapped in here too, been walking around for days, so hungry, how do I get out…

Damping isn’t going to be quite as good as the pikes.

Molegrips, I think the last one broke cutting a butternut squash lengthways, probably cos I’m double hard & stuff ;-) & it was a rubbish £25 for a set of 6 from Morrisons

Price wise yes, their potato peelers are amazing too (have a number hoarded ;-) )

Should have gone to a gun dealer to sell surely?!

3/8 ‘standard’ size, 1/4 is for finer stuff as it won’t take a massive amount of force ( have snapped 1/4″ drive stuff before & 3/8″ when working on the van ( snap on 18″) breaker bar )

1/2″ is for heavier duty stuff ( cars etc)

Sharpening wise I use a Robert welch sharpener/hone as it’s quicker and very effective . All knives get done once a week as I cook everyday even at home. Washing wise goes in the bowl on own or dishwasher for cheaper sabatiers ( low grade ones) so not to worried about handle life as have already snapped one of the small knives itself.

Yes

£50 on a decent Robert Welch one (plus £20 for the hone/sharperner, as most people (including me) can sharper knives properly and it’s a different angle on welch stuff, but can be used on other knives too) has worked well for me.
Used for the summer season in cafe kitchen & now at home.
Get the biggest knife you can handle, I have the 200mm one which is a reasonable size they do do a 250 but I thought too big although will probably get one.
my other knives are Sabatier which are also pretty reasonable (make sure it the higher quality ones)
Go to a proper kitchen shop and try the handles as you’ll get on better with some more than others.

Vivid springs are also a specific internal diameter so a fox one etc won’t fit, if changing the spring you need a vivid specific one.

Has one of the blue screws dropped out and jammed the shin stack open? ;-)
There is about half a thread holding them in so even if threadlick they may still work loose ( should be one in either side.)

6 or 4, only ever 2 if Craig Charles on.
‘BIG show’ ‘ serious jock’in’ Steve you’re a massive ….

Was 2 years warranty, service will sort it unless heavily worn

Sorry I’ve shut the business down a while ago, can check the parts boxesI have left on the shed though and see if I’ve go something.
Need to lay a load of old parts have left and get rid of for postage cost really as a waste to bin them

Everything always goes back to customer.

Yes, I issued to machine the shafts down to whatever size people wanted. Made a few at 100mm.
Air shaft maybe available now I. Shorter lengths now.

Yep just sorting a holiday with parents in law in Minorca.
Plenty of trips to the place in France with them too in our 20s & 30s
Still can’t keep on the wine :oops:

It’s the removal which is the issue without damaging the collar that’s the issue that I had an issue with. Think they were £40 Rep ish

As above, there’s also a bush on the seal head which will also affect fore/aft.
Although if you have play keys will be worth changing too IMO.
The other thing to consider is that if the friction coating on the bushes go it’ll mark the post which will cause more issues.
Changing the bush maybe possible however Was always concerned about distorting the collar body which again will affect alignment & wear

Trees & fields

:lol:

Drinking coffee & listening to some beatboxing in the mediturainian biome at the Eden project, seen some flat landing previously & some breakdancing later.

Use one of the newer pike style ones, when you get it out, never rounded mine but disliked the sharp edges

The guy friend had signed for it so had actually been left in the office car park, enjoyed calling TNT to ask them to collect it :lol:

TNT managed to deliver one of my old customers their forks on time, along with a midi digger :-o