It’s not about the size of the ship Phil. It’s the motion in the ocean.

So sounds like like I would probably wouldn’t die if I used the toro but the Maxx D offers a touch more usability.

Forget the last re tf tuned. Ordered on then had an email saying they are due in on the 2nd. I’m not counting my chickens.

TF tuned are showing as having the debonair spring in now.

Not it sure how much it would help with achieving more travel though. Apologies if you have mentioned but do you have any tokens in at the moment?

if so you could remove it/them and see how you go.

As has been said not a difficult job, even the damper fluid change as it a case of removing the compression adjuster then unscrewing the upper part and pulling it out. Then pour the fluid out and replace with the correct amount. In that respect if the 2.5 feels wrong it wouldn’t be hard to change back.

A good set of circlip pliers helps to remove the air shaft.

That said, you might not have / be able to change: let me know if you find a debonair upgrade kit in 160 or 170mm travel as I can’t find them anywhere. Were supposed to be in this week but looks to have been pushed way back.

Thanks rik that’s very kind. They are almost exactly the same. How do you get on with it and how tall are you?

I’m in Huddersfield.

I may not have explained myself that well in relation to reach.

I realise seat tube angle is nothing to do with the actual physical numbers of reach but it does make a difference to pedalling position when sat down and how stretched out or not a bike feels when pedalling.

Likewise more reach naturally moves your weight / body further forward on the bike making it harder to get your weight further back on the bike and lift the front end. I understand the merits of it and know a bit more body movement etc would rectify it but I’m not convinced it’s for me and I quite like the front end being easy to lift and in turn throw the bike about a bit (which I don’t tend to do when sat down!).

Hence asking about sizing and coming up with the conclusion that the 15’’ would likely be better for what I like.

Trouble is seat tube angle plays a big part in reach. I bought a medium bird zero am thinking it was going to be reasonably stretched but with the seat angle being so steep it actually feels a good bit shorter than the Switchback it replaced. And not as fun or chckable as your weight is further over the front.

The VRS is what I’m looking at.

Hmmmm. Either YT or Vitus are not right with their measurements as the reach is 10mm longer for the 15’’ vs the YT but ETT only 2mm longer with the supposed same seat tube angle.

YT has a 50mm stem whereas the Vitus a 35mm. Could always move the saddle back a touch and look at a slightly longer stem with the 15’’ where as couldn’t go any shorter with the 17’’ other than moving the saddle forwards when I prefer to be a bit further back on a bike.

Trouble with buying without trying I guess.

be fine. I fitted a 2.6 butcher to 23 internal and it was a good shape. Not too rounded at all.

no bigger than a 2.35 magic Mary mind. Better sidewall though.

Thanks all.

Cheers Paul.

Tempted to go with the 15 and swap the 150 reverb on the jeffsy prior to selling it.

I have one.

Doesn’t always work first time but it’s never failed to get a tyre on a rim including a fairly loosely fitting 2.5’’.

Ridden both.

Max grip in the dhf and trail star in the magic Mary.

Is it for front or rear (or both)? Don’t think I would want to ride either as a rear unless it was biblical conditions.

Compound makes a difference but the faster rolling IMO would be the dhf. But the Mary is more versatile for mixed conditions.

But the snakeskin is not the most durable. I have torn a Nobby Nic and magic Mary in snakeskin.

Doh.

There’s a removable plastic bumper/spacer on the bottom of the air shaft above the air valve. If you take that off there’s enough clearance to push the air shaft into the upper leg and get (from what I can remember) a park fr5 cassette tool over the valve and onto the splines.

That way also stops any possibility of scratching the air shaft with the cassette tool and you don’t need to cut It out either.

On the opposite side I’m thinking of trying 2.6 but only have 25mm rims and wonder if they will round the tyres off too much?

I had the chosen wheel in 650b 25mm volar rim. Couldn’t get a tyre to inflate with a track pump for love nor money as the tyres were all very baggy on the rim. Went up fine with a tubeless inflator though.

The axle snapped too but I was using it bolt through.

Mindmap I have messaged you.

Cheers

Simon

I too am 5’7’’ with 29’’ legs. There’s a good inch of seat post to play with for the saddle height that I like. That’s on the 29er.

Just grease on the new air spring assemblies.

Deore use different fittings to Zee at the Caliper end. Zee use a banjo fitting so you will need a new hose.

Tokens should be attached to the lower of the Iva top cap. They stay inside the air shaft. Amount above or below the seal in there determines how much air volume is reduced.
Makes more sense when you take it out.

Black plastic bits in the bags are for reducing travel.

Can’t remember what the other bits are for. Maybe for when the travel Is upped to 170 for 26’’?

See my post further up about the tool kit. I think the people saying the cassette tool is poor have likely been sent the wrong cut out freewheel tool which has narrower splines rather than the cassette tool. Mine works fine.

And 11 shimano works fine on 10 speed.

New m8000 mid definitely works.

Older 10 speed mech might be a bit hit and miss with the 46. Probably ok with a rad cage installed but if buying new would be better and likely cheaper I imagine getting new m8000.

Anyone with the tennies any opinions on the sizing? True to size? Fairly wide? (I have square feet)

Awesome service from Cotic (/Kelvin) if ever I saw it taking the time at this hour to check.

All the shifting ramps generally follow on from each other in a line from top to bottom. If you have a nosy at images on google that should give you a good idea how they should go together.

Stu,

Very easy with the tool kit, particularly the thin walled socket to remove the lowers. It’s not impossible to do without it though. You can use an allan key but it’s a bit of a faff to get them back together doing it that way.

The cut out cassette lock ring tool tool helps too as you don’t have to remove any thing to get the air shaft apart but you can still use a park cassette tool(think it’s an fr-5 from memory) which has quite a deep opening inside which clears the air valve but you need to take the rubber bumper off first.
Obviously you need grease and oil to reassemble them too.

If you get a pair and are near Huddersfield you are welcome to use my tools as they are not cheap.

I can recommend the forks. Had the first version, they had a creaky csu so we’re replaced recently with the 2s which shouldn’t feel any different but seem better. Smoother and better damped. They are a match for my pikes on the other bike.

Standard blackspire cinch narrow wide chainring sits fairly central on my jeffsy 29. Same race face aeffect cranks.

Eat your weetabix the morning you plan on taking the cranks off though. Needed an extension bar to get the crank and chainring lock ring off. Used a threaded rod to keep the bb tool in place to take the ring off to stop it slipping too.

Had a Minion DHF 2.5 maxx grip. It was stupendously heavy being the DH casing variety and strangely didn’t find it that grippy, certainly less so than a 26′ super tacky version.

So it has been replaced with a magic mary trail star which I also have on the 27.5 hardtail and find it much better. Definitely my new go to front tyre. Very versatile. Only trouble is the sidewalks aren’t massively tough but I have never damaged a front, only rear so that doesn’t bother me on the front.

As for rear depends how tough / fast rolling a tyre you want. I went for a 2.4 exo ardent which rolls well but isn’t very grippy. Wish I hadn’t been such a cheap skate and got a 2.4 DHR2.

The circlip for the bleed plug can be tough to get off. I imagine decent quality circlip pliers would be ok.

I ordered some these from eBay: item number 201794111087.
Not that they are quality but they are serrated and slightly bent so worked a treat.

Connector is completely different to the reverb. You will need the right one. The bleed kit comes with the correct oil I believe. But you can get the connector on its own.

Epic bleed do a kit but I found when creating a vacuum it let air into the syringe which didn’t help. The official one is better.

As for oil I’m sure the lower lube mix will be fine. Not sure how much of a difference the 5 wt will make to the stock 3. I would guess not too much. May slow the damping down a small amount.

The monarch rt3 on my jeffsy does a similar thing where there’s a small amount of resistance as it gets towards 20% travel then frees up.

Never notice it when riding. Just seems a bit odd. Didn’t have it with the original monarch r but that was warrantied and got an rt3 back as a replacement.

I have never had any issues with front tyres when it comes to sidewalls. Rear is a different story. I had a nobby nic on the rear which ended up with a couple of slashes that wouldn’t seal but on the front the magic Mary evo trail star has been great.

Used to swear by maxxis DHF on the front but I think the Mary is a better tyre generally all round and have bought one to replace the DHF for the 29er.

And no, don’t have the irt. Contemplated getting it.

Just received a new 2017 warranty replacement due to a creaky steerer and they look to have come with the IVA so may be able to run a bit less pressure for better small bump.

Negative spring in comparison to a pike which I also have on another bike.

Had/have ibex’s on the jeffsy. Left the rear one on but removed the front for a dhf.

Not too bad in the dry but the knobs aren’t particularly deep so would struggle in anything like mud.

They are a proper size though and reasonably light for what they are. Roll pretty well too but at the expense of grip.

Mine is working fine.
Not as nice shifting as my other full xt 11sp but I imagine that’s down to the sunrace cassette rather than the mech.