I have a camelback skyline which is more comfortable than a traditional backpack as the weight is lower and a touch more airy at the top of the back. Use that when I might need a waterproof or wind proof / a touch more space.

I have been using the osprey waist pack more recently with the nice weather. It’s the two bottle one. Find it comfortable and roomy enough for spares. It’s nice being able to take just one bottle if I want too. I reckon if needed I could probably stuff a wind proof in there too but it might be a squeeze.

I’m 5’7’’ with 29’’ inseam and find the medium fine. Have a 170 Highline dropper with an inch to spare.

First spin on mine yesterday. It was pretty steady at Lady Cannings, so nothing too radical. Never been before but really enjoyed it. The red is surprisingly fun and I reckon both the red and blue would be great fun for the kids too.

I was pleasantly surprised by the big dog. Lots of fun. Felt nice and nippy. A lot easier to pop off stuff and lift the front end than I thought it would be as it has a decent reach and longer stays than I’m used to.

Might be nonsense but it seems to have a bit more give in the frame than the 901 which was the last hard tail I had and it wasn’t a chore at all swapping between the Cube Stereo 150 and this.

Glad I went with 140mm forks. Doesn’t feel too slack at all.

Thumbs up all round.

Travel can be adjusted with spacers on the air shaft. Can also be extended to 160 by removing the existing spacer if they are 150mm travel.

As long as the original was fine just get that size. Wouldn’t bother about the description saying boost or non boost.

If the original is completely rounded beyond use use some pliers or cut a flat into it and bolt it up and see how much thread is engaged. If there is any spare thread poking out at the driveside when it’s bolted up the 172mm will be fine.

What about this?….. 2mm shorter but it might not matter too much depending if there was any spare thread on the original.

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/brand-x-bolt-thru-axle-2/

Item 142994110698 on eBay matches but it’s £53.

Have the 5 you have ordered previously not been the right/same size then?

If it makes sense cost wise You could
possibly buy the Lyrik and swap the damper then sell the Lyrik on as a 180mm Yari.

Would depend if you think it would be worth the hassle and possible / if any cost savings.

There’s no way your 29 will fit in the 27.5 Lyrik though.

I wouldn’t have thought a reasonable size 29’’ tyre would fit.

I tried a 29 2.35 magic Mary with my boost 27.5 Lyrik and it was no where near so there’s no chance with a 2.6.

I have just managed to pick some up second hand. Not built the bike up so can’t really say how they are but they should be reasonable.

I had some 2019 Sektor that as far as I can tell are very much the same other than being 32mm. Same air spring, same motion control damping. They were surprisingly good other than being a bit flexy at 32mm, nice and smooth and fairly well controlled.

I’m in the same position. Need some 29 boost wheels but struggling to find anything that falls into my ‘budget build’.

Got the Newman wheels on my full sus and they are very good wheels but are on same level as DT price wise (and to be fair performance).

I had a chosen wheel set a while ago which I think the S1 Hubs use and that cracked in short time too.

I wonder if superstar will do a sale at any point in the near future as even their custom wheels seem pretty pricey.

I ordered a big dog and it arrived Monday. Fitted rear wheel to check for clearance as I know some have found it tight and the wheel is about 3mm out towards the non drive side (leaving about 3mm clearance on a 2.35 flow snap on 30mm rim).

Anyone else had similar? It could be the wheel which is from another bike but that sits centrally in the other bike.

Aye, true enough. Be reet with a 2.3/4.

If a manufacturer stated you can use a frame with a 2.6 tyre I would expect there to be enough room for mud clearance and it not to rub on the stays when flexing, which I’m pretty sure it would, even if the rear wheel was re dished slightly (which in itself shouldn’t need to be done for a wheel to sit central in a frame). The wheel is literally 3mm closer to the non drive side.

It’s a shame as it’s actually a nicely designed frame and looks well finished.

Ordered a big dog which arrived today. Great service and well packed.

Everything correct. Only gripe is that Planet X state it will take a 2.6 Which is ambitious at best. 2.35 vee flow snap (which is a pretty big 2. 35) is about 3-4mm off the non drive side stays and about 8mm off the drive side.

Probably ok for a 2.4, which is about as big as I will likely use, with a slight re dish of the rear wheel but it’s annoying.

10-50 SRAM 12 speed uses an XD freehub.
10-51 Shimano 12 speed uses a microspline freehub.

On your current freehub (and same if you buy a wheel with the same standard freehub) you can use the following cassettes:
Shimano 11 speed 11-42 or 11-46
Sram 11 speed 11-42
Sram 12 speed 11-50 (ie NX eagle)
Sunrace 11 speed 11-42, 11-46 or 11-50
Sunrace 12 speed 11-50.

Basically the lack of XD or Shimano micro spline driver means you can’t get a 10 tooth smallest cog. Only 11.

And you can mix and match cassettes to different make derailleurs as long as they are the same speed (and obviously the right fitment type for the freehub that you have).

Also check you derailleur can take 50t first if that’s what you were to go for.

Hope that long winded reply makes sense!

When I say the headset I just cleaned and greased the frame and outside of the bearings. The bearings them selves are nice and smooth but the outers are a bit corroded.

Cheers Rich, seems it was the headset that needed a clean and a regrease. Seems fine now.

Hope it’s not a recurring issue. Never opened a car near frame and never had similar issues with aluminium frames. Maybe it’s because the bearings sit in the actual frame?

Hmmm, il check the headset but the bike was new in December and has probably been used 10 times. The headset has never been loose or knocking and hasn’t been tight or notchy so should be fine.

Sorry Andy, feel like I have hijacked your thread.

I would agree that it could be the cables if it didn’t do it when twisting the forks with the wheel off and bike upside down (supporting the bars with my feet so the cables aren’t moving).

Mines the same model but it only does it on bumpy ground and when you pull up / twist the bars.
It’s bloody annoying, especially when going downhill as it’s constant.

What year is it?
I have a 2019 29er but I think it’s the crown/steerer of the fork as it does it when twist the fork.

What about this?
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/wtb-trail-boss-29-tcs-tough-fast-rolling-tyre/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360767666&kpid=5360767666&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mckv%7CsDsWPH3HH_dc%7Cmcrid%7C295270531587%7Cmkw%7C%7Cmmt%7C%7Cmrd%7C5360767666uk%7Cmslid%7C%7C&mkwid=sDsWPH3HH_dc&pcrid=295270531587&prd=5360767666uk&pgrid=60973737802&ptaid=pla-522417752144&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-L-Xv5n16AIViu7tCh1aoQLEEAYYAiABEgKCGvD_BwE

Not sure if it would be classed as XC but should roll pretty well and will certainly be tough if the past tough wtb tyres I have had are anything to go by.

Might struggle to get a proper xm tyre with good sidewall protection.

I thought i29 were 29mm internal. They have a pretty deep well. I think wtb recommend 5mm more than the internal measurement and do 34mm.

Wouldn’t fit then, not to worry, but I’m fairly sure the combo you describe should work and well. I remember it working better than the 10sp that it replaced.

If memory serves me correctly I’m sure I used an 11sp xt mech with a 10sp shifter/wide range cassette so it should be fine.

That said if you have Shimano brakes I will be removing an I spec 2 xt 11sp shifter tomorrow that’s been used a handful of times if you are interested.

I had a jeffsy a couple of years ago. Buying it was fine. Had updates re shipping. Arrived fine and well boxed with spare hanger as ordered.

Had to warranty the reverb (sagging) and monarch shock (weeping loads of oil) a few months after receiving it. Took about three weeks from sending them off to getting the reverb and a better shock back. So I reckon it was a good bit quicker than it would have been had I done it via SRAM uk.

Nothing but good things to say about them.

Cheers all. Wondering if the issue comes from the bite point adjust and whether to just get some Deore levers for now and if need be get the 4 pot callipers later down the line?

Ideally would be shimano as the shifter is I spec 2.

You should be able to tell looking at it. Self extracting have a smaller bolt inside that unthreads to meet the outer bolt/cap then pulls the cranks off.

The normal ones just have a normal bolt with a black outer cap that you can’t see into. That said mine are non extracting and after taking the bolt off the crank is loose anyway so I didn’t need a crank puller.

I have never come across the r’s in person but from looking at photos they look like they maybe self extracting.

Compression adjuster knobs are different. Should be able to tell from a pic.

For want of a better description charger 1 is more rounded and charger 2 / 2.1 is slightly squarer edged.

2018 should be charger 2.

I had a new 2018 Lyrik which had the first debonair spring in.

I had a couple rides on it and wasn’t impressed. Fitted the 2019 which was definitely more supple and had better support.

Transformed it into a great fork but whether it was the spring or that it came with little grease / lube I have no idea. Seemed to be plenty in when I took it apart.

Which year and model are you looking at?

I have a 2019 C62 race which has a 425mm seat tube, 457 mm length dropper and I have an inseam 2’’ shorter than yours. The seat post is pretty much as far down as it will go. I tend to run my saddle relatively high in comparison to a lot of my mates so I imagine it will be close.

If it’s the 2019 then I think the seat post is pretty much the same length.

I do think that at 5 11 depending on what you are used to a medium might feel a touch small.

I used one on the back on Tuesday. Seems pretty good. Grippy enough. Didn’t roll too badly. They are about 1.1 kg but seem decently sturdy so ideal for the rear.

Quite square on a 30mm rim though so anything over that might square them up a bit much.

Cants go wrong for £19.

I have just ordered a vee tyre flow snap for £15 to replace a 2 ride old Hans damp that has a hole on the bead. No idea if it will be any good but reviews seem favourable.

I have had rimpacts for a while. I really like them.

I don’t think they allow you to lower the pressure loads but I’m heavy (100 kg) and they allow me to run pressures where I’m happy with grip levels / damage limitation. It’s horses for courses I guess but I run, as a general rule, 27.5 rear 24 front on the full sus. I never feel any dings now but without them I was regularly dinging rims. After a good year with them they have hardly any damage and to be fair I could probably run a bit lower pressures but I’m happy where I am.

Depending on where you ride / tyre width 23 psi would be on the low side for a hardtail on the rear in my opinion. But I reckon with a rimpact you would be spot on at that weight. Tyre width makes a big difference.

I too wonder how I would fair if I had to take it out and ride with it. Guess it would be a case of finding something to get most of the sealant off and stuffing it in the bag. I have had zero issues but always carry plugs just in case.

Wouldn’t worry about it.

DT Swiss ratchet freehubs do tend to come off fairly easily. Happened to me when I Dropped/leant one against the wall at an angle.

Just be mindful when it’s off the bike. Make sure it’s not picked up any dirt / grit and pop it back in correctly.

Above is for 2019 and 2020. Don’t think the brakes and forks are as good on the 2018. The rear tyre looks pretty poor too on the 2018.

I was nosying at these last week. From what I can tell the forks and shock will be practically the same. Both forks use IFP charger dampers.
Gears are similar in range.
Main difference looks to be the brakes although I don’t think the sram guide t were that badly thought of.

Deciding factor for me would be price as I don’t think there’s much in them.

Not sure how you will go on for stock though. Especially 2020 bikes. If you’re north wheelbase look to have a large 2020 at 15 percent off but it’s collection only at Stavely.

Was it confirmed that the tiktik would take a reasonable size 29 inch tyre?

My 150 clamps at the post end.