Tape is 21mm wide in 19mm rim so just about up to the edge.

I’ve tried soapy water round the bead and this time its definitely not that. Its leaking into the rim or via the valve i think.

But in fairness i didnt leave them flat. For a while. Will give it a try.

Not sure the bath option will get me any brownie points “dont worry dear….just giving my wheels a bath!” She’d go berserk seeing me do that!!!

Simples! In the end anyway. Found an app called HealthFit (ios…other platforms are available…not sure if there’s an android version).

Has heatmaps and loads of stats built in. Takes data from the health app rather than garmin but saves a load of faffing!

Not sure if its changed but I vaguely remember garmin and ios not playing nicely so GPS wasnt shared; just workout data. but i already use rungap as it makes it miles easier to share tracks with friends & colleagues.

All goes from rungap across to apple health and healthfit analyses it. All happens via autosync in the background so whilst it sounds a faff, i just need to sync my garmin to the connect all and open then relevant app.

Plenty to go at there. Thanks.

I like the look of that QGIS as it mentions automating from a server so potentially could export GPx files via RunGap to my NAS and get the maps to auto update.

Looks like a little “working from home project to get into that one”!

Looks good but i’m trying to keep away from strava and within the garmin environment if possible.

Was wondering about the sealant clumping / drying up and turning to sludge but just had an inspection and still fine after 4minths on the wall! Bit more than winter storage for that bike but another story!

Think i’ll do as you suggest and just get down every now and then to spin them up.

I really dont rate stans. Never had any success and it clogs / sets into nasty little balls and lumps in the tyres.

So far muc-off is the dogs across my whole fleet. For sealing & not clogging my valves. Made the switch in August this year and cant fault it.

I get clogged valves on my road bike usually as a sign the valve core rubber is on the way out. So air seeps out and the sealant does its job and seals. For me it signals new valve core time.

On my MTB’s its the same story but also by not riding it as often which for some bizarre reason makes rhe sealant dry up quicker and also storing it with valves at the bottom and near the sealant.

My silt hubs are no worse than my hopes.

But my scribe hubs are as you say utterly obnoxious – especially with the slightest hint of back pedal coasting at 30mph.

I got to the point that I couldnt freewheel through my local village at any time before 9am for fear of waking the whole place. After 9 i just get tuts and scowls.

Solution – dont stop pedalling! But more seriously, dont stop pedalling. Just gently pedal forwards instead of a complete coast. Not perfect but quietens a bit. Takes it down to hope levels.

Forgot to mention all on 1x setups. Road and MTB.

Even managed to get 48T chainring with 11-40 working perfectly. Well outside spec but tis spot on. Long cage for that though.

Definitely. According to the manual it’ll be well out of spec and cause you to crash and die a painful death!

In the real world probably not. I ran Shimano short cage with 11-34 no issues. Just had to adjust the b-screw.

Currently running 11-42 with shortcage ultegra and a roadlink. Sweet shifting and no issues.

My MTB’s are on sram gx without roadlink and running 11-50 with no issues. Manual rates the mech for 11-42.

You’ll need to set the b-screw for clearance on the 34 but its not a stupid range so should be able to get away without the roadlink.

FWIW the sunrace version is way cheaper than the Wolftooth and works exactly the same https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/search?q=Roadlink

If there’s no conclusive way I think it will be the bin. ANd i did use a torque wrench set to 2Nm! Therein’s the dilemma…..cracking sound before the torque wrench even moved!

Doubts there now anyway. New set of Renthal bars just landed. Loads of others could have been purchased. But the Tart in me wanted the colour match! Only Renthal had that. Other brands are available. But not a good enough match!

Never used Twaddle
Never used Stalker Book
Never used Cuckoo Clock
Never used Instant Attention

My life feels tragic, incomplete and I just know I’m missing out on life and being totally unfulfilled.

That aside I dont miss a thing. I dont feel i have a gaping hole in my life. I see the people I think are important and worth spending time with. And I’ve also gone as far as stopping reading the news. Happiness has gone up ten fold.

TBH….when “FACEBOOK WENT DOWN FOR 35seconds” becomes world news. Yet the middle east is totally fubar’d or another war just started in an african state somewhere just about makes it to page 37 of the Daily Rag….says it all for me.

Use it or dont. Just dont make it the be all and end all. Live a life in the real world and make the virtual world a small part of it. I’m sure there’s a load of good stuff on social media but the stuff I hear about seems full of “I’M A NO-ONE DESPERATE TO BE SOMEONE…..So I’ll gloss everything up to be a fantasy”.

I’ll take my chances without.

“Can you use some wire to measure the distance from the front of the head tube to the dropouts?

If it’s the same on both sides, it’s probably fine.”

Many a year ago that’s what my LBS did on mine. Measurement was the same and carried on riding it for years after fixing it up.

granted for the OP in his confined space this isnt possible but if a ripper is inevitable I usually stand fairly close to someone else. When everyone looks at me I turn to look at the closest person, join in the disgust and shift the blame. So far only been caught out once since my school days.

I probably should take more responsibility but as my other half keeps accusing me….I havent grown up yet.

Solution
1) Unscrew and remove caliper
2) Unscrew Lever
3) remove V4’s
4) remove wheel
5) remove hope floating rotor and replace with shimano rotor
6) bolt Cura 2 caliper onto bike
7) bolt cura 2 lever to bars
8) reclip all hoses
9) centre caliper over rotors and tighten bolts
10) spin wheel and listen to the instant silence.

All up took less time to do that than a pad change, piston lube and caliper set up on the V4’s.

And what a novelty to have true rotors out of the box. Across 8 hope floating rotors not a single one has been true. Every single one has wobbled like a tramps night out! Shimano’s – straight as a die.

Dont think I’ll be going back.

Another +1 for disc spacer and even axle spacing. I ran hope non-boost pro4’s on a boost frame for 3 years with shimano XT and was spot on.

I also ran 203 rotors and as far as i can tell i’m still alive. Sane….who knows!!

Also, IMHO people get too hung up on chain line and geometry and microns.

God only know what my chainline was. All i know is it was definitely not standard and shifting was spot on.

“Ideal” is intended for up and down cassette roughly even spread. I spend most time in 15-50 range so was better with an inboard chainline for me. If i’d spent more in the smaller rings then outboard would have been better. You can easily play around with a spacer on the BB.

I’ve now got 11sp boost wheels and chainring and shimano shifting was shat in comparison to the frankenboost set up. Moved to sram and miles better.

I ran MRP better boost and some disc spacer shims and couldnt fault it.

I’ve come to the conclusion its just 4 pots. My twin pots – pad out. Squeeze pustons back. New pads in. Undo bolts and squeeze lever, tighten and go. Thats it.

Just spent yet another half hour faffing with new pads on the v4’s.

I’d like to see a hope video that sets up used parts. Not brand new pristine. And as for centring the caliper thats marvellous if the natural position for the pistons is to be centred. It is not. It is always hose side further out than the other side regardless of screwdriver or spacers or anything else. I set em, recentre the pistons, squeeze the brake and pistons sit offcentre and rub. Awlways. So the only way to not rub is to offset the caliper.

I’m lazy. Want fit and forget like it was before I switched to hope!

New twinpots on the way. Hope on ebay soon!

Thats fairly new isnt it?

Typical. Only just bought new floating rotors for my Forge build. Went 183/203. Probably should have gone more standard!
🙄🙄

Solid block with a groove for the disc. So sits on the disc and sets the caliper at the right angle.

Still doesnt sort the uneven piston movement.

Was chatting to leisure lakes about it today. Hopes are apparently known to have a side bias in terms of piston push out. And apparently they’re well aware of the faff!!

Bounce suspension are round the corner from me. When they were still doing workshop repairs he’d said “folks come in for a hope bleed. Outwardly i smile and say sure. No problem. Inwardly i’m screaming and cursing.”

Never thought much of it till last nights pad change!

Is there anywhere UK based you can get the cura’s atm?

Nothing via google searches.

@molgrips there is only so much you can do when drivers give you 2cm of space trying to squeeze past. Regardless of whether i ride in the gutters or 1.5m from the kerb.

But fair point. As you say, it is what it is and better to ride defensively.

Oh…i never thought he was drunk. My vindictive self wants to make his life hard work for a while knowing the company he works for would have instant dismissal if found drunk. Might be a disciplinary or a few words to start with.

Option 1. Deep breath.

I should take solace in the fact my calmness at the time absolutely enraged him. To the point he stopped at the roundabout ahead with who knows what objectives. I was going the other way anyway.

Chiefgrooveguru…you may be baffled by the fiddling and so am I! My V4’s out of the box have had totally uneven piston movements which leads to all the faff. I used to use pure silicon oil from my rc cars shocks to paint the pistons every month which made fork hall difference. Now i just use a silicone spray every month. Still makes fork hall difference.

Stops them siezing completely but that seems to be all the good it does!

@sirhc i have most definitely considered that!

First ever disc brakes 20 yrs ago were formulas and loved em. Saw the cura’s and tempted. Are they that good?

I’ve got brand new rotors but rush cycles did say that the v4’s seem to run better with the thicker DH rotor or whatever it is. Couldnt justify the £90 or thereabouts each so stuck with standard.

Wonder if the thin rotors leaves too much clearance which makes it worse to set?

I did experiment with zip ties on one side to hold the pistons in whilst the other side pushes out but they just seem to have a preset balance that needs caliper angle adjusting. Regardless or where i set the pistons, they always reset to their own preferred position!

Uneven piston movement is my big problem. Across all my e4’s and v4’s its the same. But worse on the v4’s presumably due to bigger caliper / pistons. And because there’s 4 pots its worse than twin pot because if they’re not all equally lubed and free moving you get a front / back uneven movement to boot.

Thats where i then always end up faffing to get the alignment to compensate.

Even with a proper pad spacer shim i get the set up perfect until i remove it and that eneven movement settles with it all out of alignment. Again!

Maybe the answers to just go back to twinpots! Simples. Only one axis to align.

Sounds like its not just me being a muppet then!

@davros every brand has their forum issues and so on so worth it….only you can say that! mine have done 3x gritty winters and other than pads (and faff) have been fine. Better than the rest of the group i ride with. They’re on shimano xt’s / slx and their pad wear translates to full lever travel & no brakes. The hope’s….they just keep on going and maybe a tweak of the bite point. And power doesnt go too much either when the pads are fubar’d.

I prefer my e4’s so wouldnt get the v4’s again. But would definitely stay hope. Even just for the colours and repairability. If you can get the parts at some point again!

Thanks for the comments folks.

Another +1 for bigger cassette.

Commuter is running 11-42 sunrace, ultegra mech and grx 42t chainring. Sweet as with minimal to 0 adjustment over 3k miles

Bike 2 is 48T wolftooth with 11-40 cassette & ultegra rear mech. Shifting again sweet as and well outside tolerance. Over 5k miles with that and all i had to do was fit a chain guide to stop the occasional chain drop. Again minimal adjusting once set up.

Both bikes get me up 25% although the 48t definitely borders on unpleasant at that grade!

Discs – new. But They’re never perfectly true out of the box.

Mounts hmmm….maybe. Thats one consistent thing as the brakes and mounts have all moved from old bikes to next new frame. Guess thats like the discs – manufacturing tolerances and not a lot i can do on that other than try buying new ones.

Without fail my pads always wear unevenly. The pistons on the hose union side always push out more than the other. Maybe bleed needed 😒

Thats what i thought. Just changed the pads and again half an hour to stop the grind and ting.

One of the farm reps that serves my outlaws used to drive a diesel VW. 50-60 real world mpg and filled up once a month.

Her company switched the fleet to hybrids and got a shit load of climate incentives and tax breaks.

She still does the same annual miles give or take, gets real world mid 30’s mpg on avg and fills up twice a month.

But its fine, its environmentally friendly cos the media said so.

And the mines that rape and pillage obscur villages to obtain those rare earths for western battery packs are fine cos no-one gives a shit about whats not in their door step. Or should I say “no reported incidents since records began”. 5 years ago.

Climate is the new religion to keep us under control and with it goes too many myths, half truths and people who think its fine to go go and damage random peoples stuff.

I dont think its right to be 5ft tall with a 6ft waist when theres so much poverty. So can i go round and smash up their fridge and cooker?

Sad to say it….go back to garmin! I got sick of the apple watch limitations on mapping and navigation. Bought a fenix and never looked back!

Komoot on apple watch or even apple maps for the map but routing is problematic.

Cant be chainring so soon. Not unless damaged. I’knocking on 5k miles on my GRX ring and umpteen chains and still sweet running.

However, the KMC crap made instant noise and did exactly that hook up.

The 11sp kmc chain is too narrow to fit 11sp SRAM jockey wheels and 1x chainring where teeth are wider than std so translates into grinding and hooking in both cases. Any after market road chainring slightly wider than normal would also have the same problem.

If you only got 700mls I’d be back onto Absolute Black. I certainly would. Thats a new chainring every 6 weeks 😳😳 !!

2x side by side will double the output but dont necessarily give 2x the performance. Especially if mismatched as they compete & dont complement. Plus 2 crap lights can never beat 1 good one. Regardless of claimed lumens.

One thing to note is the testing methods. Bigger lumens = more heat = drop off in performance = less lumens on the trail.

A quality 1500 lumens light could well work better after 10mins. The official testing measures peak output over the first couple of minutes. Thats it. So a 6000 crap light could get so hot it drops back to 500 lumen after 5 mins and never really recovers. Still classed as 6k lumen. Its output is dead before you finished chatting!!

BUT quality lights maintain 1500lumen over the majority of battery life so whilst 1/4 output in numbers, on the trail it’ll be far better.

Cheap lights tend to have their LED’s amp’d to the max so generate loads of heat and dont always have the cooling to keep that performance.

You want a decent brand with decent optics then anything of 1500 lumen up will be great for more than just canal or fire road pootling.

Cast your memory back to 3x chainsuck days and the damage done to ally & steel chainstays. Theres absolutely nothing that tight tyre clearance would do that’d make me worry.

Carbon different story i’d say as you dont really want to be grinding it away but i’ve had bikes where i’ve squeezed fatter than i should tyres in or mudguards with a gnats do dah clearance to tyres and run no bother.

2mm clearance will fill with mud. 3mm clearance will fill with mud. 5mm clearance will fill with mud.

As long as the wheel spins and doesnt catch under load I wouldnt worry. If there’s enough mud to stop the wheel spinning at 1mm or 5mm you’ll be walking by then.

I built one up
160mm lyrik ultimate
Silt wheelset
Conti tyres
Carbon bars 780mm raceface bars
Nukeproof stem. 35mm (length) i think
Carbon cranks raceface cranks for now
Uber bottom bracket
Hope V4’s
Stayed 11sp rather than 12

6’1 and the large is perfect. Front end is high and was worried about doing backflips but for some reason it feels easier and more composed on the hills than the Zero and Am9. Front end stays planted.

Stunning bike to ride. Had their Zero AM. Which was fantastic. Got their Am9 which is a beast but the Forge is something else. Goes uphill like a mountain goat and goes down anything quicker than a tarts drawers so to speak.

Doesnt feel flexy at all but it just soaks up the bumps. And its light for steel. Feels Way lighter than other steel bikes i’ve had or guys in my riding group ride.

Tis the only bike I’ve ever ridden where i think i could finally go to “n” instead of always being n+1. Recon its so good it could be my one and only bike wherever i ride.

And the teal is stunning. More blue but purple flip undertones.

The guys at bird are great to deal with too.

Only problem was getting the spacing sorted on the cranks with chainstay protectors and crankboots. Official spacing had the crank boots catching the chainstay protectors but a little tinkering with spacers and cinch got it sorted. Chainline is not official but close enough and it still shifts clean and crisp so who cares whether its spot on or out by 0.6 microns!

And geometry, boulderdash to it all. Bird know how to build a bike. It rides fantastically well, feels comfortable and is pretty stunning to look at too!

Upcountry, downcountry, left a bit, cross country, enduro….no idea. Who cares. It’s a riot to ride. Anywhere. In the country.

Do i like it, hell yes.

People need more than 3k lumen because the person behind you has 3.5k lumen and outshines you leaving allsorts of horrible shadows!

I can wholeheartedly recommend the magicshine monteer. I run the 6500 one. Usually ride faster on downhill at night than daylight! Light spread is so good i dont really need a helmet light.

Swapped from a Sixpack and Diablo. Never looked back. The chinese lumens are incredible. “If carlsberg did lights…..”

Northwind…as you say. You just have to find what works. Ideal via R&D is usually good all round. Jack of all master of none but good enough for most. I ride resin pads through gritstone slop winter and they last ages with great performance but i “should” apparently be using sintered!

When i used to runbrakes from the big s’s i found them too digital on…off…on…off so the reduction in braking power from non oem was great and made them feel way better. But hope arent the most powerful to start with so anything taking it down further is a disaster waiting.

Tried umpteen after market brands but IMHO none come close to the hope oem.

Thanks chaps.

Dont think i could live with the Raveman. I’m a fit & forget lazy sort if chap and cant get on with remotes on drop bars.

I’m always a bit skeptical of white backgrounds for beam patterns making them look brighter than real world black roads!

My outbounds are stunning on the cart track minor roads. I’m just scared of going battery pack free and being disappointed like i was when i went exposure for off road lights 🤔🤔🤔

I should probably just put up with the lack of retail space till the packs die.

@jkomo – i’m tempted by the B&M light. Any chance you could post some night time pics.

Bar retail space is a premium with lights, computer, 2x batteries. I’m tempted to go integrated battery but would only ever go something with proper optics instead of a beam bender lens.

After market is always an interesting one.

Big / worldwide Companies spend a fortune onR&D and yes cheaper alternatives can be found. BUT helmet (and i suppose skills) aside there are 2 main things that keep me out of hospital:
1) Ability of tyres to grip
2) Ability of brakes to stop me before that cliff or tree.

Yet these are the 2 most scrimped on things for a lot of people.

I used to. Once bitten twice shy! Tis fubar IMHO. Buy cheap buy twice….an expensive and alas occasionally painful lesson learned over time.

“I just off to put some cracking remoulds on my bugatti veyron….” 😁