Yeah….whats going on there?!!

Conspiracy theory’s abound!

Check out kw570 on eBay. Based in Italy but no complaints from me. Very efficient service and i didnt get hit with VAT or duty.

Geometron are definitely super helpful but formula UK web has been really slow to appear. Not sure if its live now.

I ditched hope V4’s for Cura 2’s. Bought from the italian eBay dealer. Arrived in 4 days and never looked back.

Bleed is a doddle. Quicker to do both brakes than it was just to set up pad distance on one of the hope brakes.

Power is incredible for twin pots. Blows the Hope Tech 3 V4 out of the water. But they’re not on/off like shimano. I feel like my eyeballs will pop out but amazingly they dont lock up or feel grabby (maybe the conti’s help there too!)

Totally blown away by them and wont be going back.

The only thing i would say is dont do the “overfill hack to close the pad distance” that bike shops do. Firstly you dont need to and secondly if you do need to push pistons back in to get a disc in or out new pads on there’s a high chance thenoild will blow out the seals and fubar pads. That happened to me after bike shop shortened cables :(

New pads, bleed kit and filled properly and sorted in no time.

Cant rate them highly enough.

@scribecycling

Hi Alan, i did indeed get sorted and customer service was faultless. New bearings and new tool sent out and wheels back running without issues.

Although the tool that got sent out is now 3 pronged as opposed to 4! So i’m keeping fingers crossed on bearings!

Riding in the rain I dont mind. Complete PITA drying everything and trying to stop the rust appearing overnight!

Wind absolutely detest it. 20 years Living on the coast with prevailing westerlies that howl in your face from the North, east, south and west…basically whichever direction you face and I still havent gotten used to it or learned to enjoy it.

I’m still not a carbon convert and definitely not on wheels. Last new wheelset – 6” nail straight through the tyre and inner wall. Patched up with some resin and perfect. Carbon would be fubar’d. Lifetime crash etc…. Not for me!

Where’d you get the build done or were they off the peg?

I’m trying to get a wheel weight around 1600g. Seen a bitex build at JRA that suits and spot on weight wise. Potentially up to a kg in total off my wheels with a change of cassette and tyres too which is massive. But wondering if tyres will squirm all over and defeat the object.

Hadn’t thought about that. I’m thinking matt too.

Got some cut-offs from the last wrap so will give it a try before ordering.

@jeffl

I’m running silt on the MTB and Scribe on gravel.

The gravel wheels have so far been fine but my silt bearings packed up after 45mls and the ratchet was a complete fokker to get off. So tight it actually snapped their bespoke tool. Sorted that and yesterday, first ride out since swapping bearings and the spokes started pinging and creaking under load mid way through the ride. Settled down after a decent gnarly down but they seem a little high maintenance for me. Imagine trying to undo the ratchet after a year or more of it being tightened if 45mls is bad enough. My hopes were heavy but fit n forget. For now, these are nagging me about longevity.

They’re light, ride well and customer service from silt has been absolutely faultless.

I did want to get some of their lightweight XC wheels for the hardtail but in all honesty I want simple maintenance as well as lightweight & can take a battering.

Snap! In the exact same boat. Mr Bontrager has the best advice
1) Get fit
2) Get fitter
3) Get even fitter.

Sadly i have to agree. The biggest change i made previously was getting fit. BUT After surgery, 3 months off and gasping like I’ve COPD i’m teetering with the bike diet again!

Problem is there arent many single big bang bits you can save a lot of weight easily. Tis all marginal gains.

The bikes a beast however you cut it. Bars, chainring, mech, seat Post is all grams so at best 500g and a shed load of cash. Fork maybe 300- 500g at best for shorter travel but pricey. Wheels n tyres – Running hope pro4 on halo rims with WTB vigilantes. Tubeless. Measured them against my silt wheels with Conti’s and the hope setup is 600g heavier. If i got some more trail or xc orientated tyres and dropped from 11-50 to say 11-42 or 11-46 i could probably shed 1kg tops. Here so the only real big bang change.

A mates carbon canyon with xt build and Fox forks was similar if not heavier to my current build but horrible to ride. Absolutely awful so i’d take the AM9 and slightly heavier build any day.

So £500 min for a fork, same again on groupset bits for ultra light similar on wheels & tyres, plus a few anciliary bits I might blow £1500 to save 1-1.5kg absolute tops. Fok that! I’m resigned to going with Mr Bontrager philosophy and suffering the pain of geting fit again!

It pedals great, climbs well and when fit I can easily pedal it 25-30ml XC before i start to feel it. Thats enough for me to enjoy.

Only thing I’m toying with is maybe a set of silt wheels or hunt wheels for the AM9 as both wheelsets are really light for Ally. In the region of carbon for half the price and would make a big handling change too. But not so sure it’s worth it. Especially as i just had to replace the bearings on my silt rear hub after 45mls. Completely siezed.

I think my AM9 is currently a shade under 15kg. If you want lighter, best bet sell the AM9 and get a bike that’s light to start with.

For info:
Hope hubs / halo rims
Wtb rubber
Lyrik ultimate
RS Piggyback shock. Cant remember the model
Nukeproof ally bars and stem
Sram GX
11-50 Sunrace
Brand-x dropper
Race face 30T ring on race face turbine cranks
Wheels 30mm BB
Formula Cura 2’s
And a frame thats about 2.5kg before you even start!!!

You want a fence post spike. Way easier. Quick fit or similar….

https://www.sure-green.com/drive-in-fence-post-spike-bolt-secure-oxide-red-taurus-50mm-x-450mm.html?msclkid=4c51a116f71f113bf755c3740dc1f8c1&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(CT)%20Google%20Shopping%20-%20£0.01%20Campaign&utm_term=4582695767382646&utm_content=All%20Products%20-%20£0.01

This sort of thing. I used one to fix a broken fence. The spike hammers in much bette then a wooden post. I used a small cut off to put in the spike so as to save the metal.

Not sure they do round ones though!

@mert – interesting. Out of curiosity is there a particular reason not to go max bearings in hubs? I’d never thought about it other than more grease might have a little more friction but be almost unnoticeable when riding. Or is there something in the race meaning they wont last as long / not suitable.

The ones i took out are EZO so was expecting better but it seems the problem one had zero grease. Never seen anything like it. Even after 24 hrs soaking in gt85 the race is still seized. I’m thinking it was faulty out of the factory.

well for what it’s worth, if anyone else has a similar ratchet hub issue, a Samuel Jackson BIG MFB sorted it. Aka a **** long bar! Well a 3ft long wrench. Similar principle to that video.

Tis going back together with a film of anti-sieze grese on the threads.

Groan. Groan. Groan. I tend not to be too loyal to complete and utter PITA!!

Words similar to clucking bells.

Mine are less than 6 mths never mind 6 years!!! Due to a crash and surgery they’ve also had a grand total of 45miles on them followed by 2-3 months of standing doing not a lot.

Fix and replace me thinks

It wont be your b-tension. It’ll be your cable length as you’re effectively shortening the cable by lengthening the stays. B-Screw is fixed by the cassette gap.

Tighter cable / shorter cable will mean you cant shift to smaller gears and may find you cant drop to smallest sprocket.

With s bit of luck you’ll have enough barrel adjustment. If not then slacken the cable a little and reset the gears.

@theotherjonv
Cracking…glad you’re sorted and glad it was useful info 😁

Will just have a play. Maybe i can pause the ride and switch off then switch it on again next day.

Wont get any stats in garmin connect till the rides finished but hey ho.

Tis only to keep the fitness going till i can on a bike proper again.

If you’ve not used it before the hills can be a little “digital” in feel as the resisitance moves in steps si dont stop zwift just yet! But as I’ve never bothered with zwift in the first place i think i can live with the imperfections and put the money to new bike stuff!

I faffed for ages with various tubeless tapes on cut out rims.

In the end i left rim strips in and gorilla taped the rim. Sealed perfectly.

Minions front and rear at 9 psi. Amazingly, after 18mths sat in the garage not moving they were still at 7psi.

Correct. I will be following a gps route without moving.

The garmin will simulate the route inside. From the indoor trainer you can select a course as a workout. It’ll move you along the route based on speed and distance and ignore gps.

The hills simulate based on garmin controlling the resistance. Basically poor mans zwift. That costs nothing as I have the computer already.

So, i dont want to ride a rhe whole lot. Just a bit each day but each day i want the route to pick up where i left off.

Not sure about that part as every time I’ve finished it stops everything. Next session becomes a new session so starting the navigation again back at the beginning.

Tis fine when i recreate a shorter route as i do it then job done. But 700ml+….thats more than a single ride!

And just took my other bike apart – ultegra cranks with wolftooth ring. 68mm BB shell with Uberbike ceramic bottom bracket and i can run this with the standard 2mm spacer on drive side but i’ve set it up with no spacer between frame and bottom bracket and instead of the uberbike 2mm spacer, i’ve put some plastic shims i had from another BB between the BB and cranks. So a 1mm spacer instead of 2mm.
Bith works fine but its slightly quieter across the full gear range this way.

No matter the “std” tolerances, all hubs, rings, BB brands are ever so slightly different spaced due to their tolerances so all GRX for example – do as the manual says. Heinz 57…..a little trial and error!

@jackal – no issues on chainline. Just had a look at the bikes. shimano 24mm BB with grx and ultegra cranks. 68mm shell with 1 spacer on drive side, no spacers on non-drive which i think is just stock spacing for a 68 shell.

The GRX 1x and my wolftooth are shaped to sort the chainline of a 1x and most 1x chainrings should take care of the spacing. Thenproblem i had with the superstar wasnt so much chainring, it was the ring teeth just being standard shaped and not slightly fatter as dedicated 1x rings should be.

On the road, chain line hasnt been an issue with 1x. Tis the mountain bike where i need to faff as “industry standard” seems crap so I’ve always got spacers in sligjtly different places to Bb instructions.

If i were you I’d leave as is, get the specific 1x chainring and should be fine. Worst case is maybe swap the spacer from one side to the other but for 1-2mm IMHO you’ll be fine. If anything, better than 2x as the ring will sit in the middle of a 2x set where only about 2 gears are quiet and the rest of the time rattling on the front mech!

Not KMC any more!

I’m currently on SRAM but i’d stick with either of the big S’s. What you can find and whats affordable! Think my last chain change was for SRAM X something. £25 ish. Runs sweet on grx810 and sram 11-42 with ultegra mech.

KMC uses to be fine but since 2020 every KMC i’ve used has sounded horrible and grindy. SRAM has been miles better.

Not used 10spd for a while but i think chains are backward compatible but not forward. Certainly for 11sp The inner dimensions are the same as 12sp so on one of my 11sp bikes i’m running a 12sp chain with no issues. The clearance with squeezing more gears in comes from shaving the outer plates on the chain, not the inner. Was part of trying to eliminate the KMC grind. Bird Bikes suggested it….it definitely works!

For £5 go hope. Buy cheap….buy twice sadly seems to prevail a fair bit with aftermarket stuff.

But the downer with short cranks is you’ll feel like youre pedalling a kids bike. Horrible sensation.

Have used michelins – crap
Various WTB’s – good
Maxxis Minions OK
WTB Vigilantes – heavy but were my tyre of choice.
Vee Tire (albeit 27.5) – truly stunning tyres and light too.

Currently on the latest compound Conti Der Kaiser and Der Baron. Unbelievable for grip and control. My new best friend in tyres. Bit heavy but i climb things none of my riding group can and descend as the God you are looking to become! Well….in my head anyway.

Whatever…….good luck finding stock of anything!

Know that feeling. Nightmare replacing the KTM one. Completely disintegrated although i did find the size stamped on one piece. And the bearing fitted was nothing like the one that was meant to have been fitted!

Good luck!

If it is a cartridge bearing you should find the type stamped onto it somewhere. Usually on the rubber shield e.g 6902RS – tells you what you need. Or sometimes the dimensions are printed onto the metal face of the bearing so you know what size to go and order. Cant remember off the top of my head but its something like outerdiameter x inner diameter x height and letters for straight or angled edge.

If the retainer was plastic are you sure it as per that kinetic caged bearing and not just a completely fubar’d bearing?

My KTM headset disintegrated after virrually no time to the point bearings and everything fell out. The balls had been held in place with a plastic retainer but it was definitely a cartridge bearing originally. Just fubar’d when i got to it. Similar on an FSA bottom bracket.

On the KTM, the race and inner bearing ring fell out, the outer part of the bearing stayed put in the frame and needed a little coaxing out.

Could well be wrong but the bearings in both cases have been held in place inside the race by a plastic guide/shield/retainer type thing. All packed with grease and then Rubber shield.all originally sealed cartridge bearings. to start with anyway!

I’m no bike shop mechanic but when i’ve had that its been a case of tighten the bolt or the dropout if replaceable. You might be lucky!

On my Elite trainer with planet-x london road (only ever lives on the trainer) i recall having a similar issue and it was down to the axle spacing not being quite right in the trainer. And the drop out wasnt being help in place so ended up with a bit of play. Cannot for rhe life of me remember what i did but think it was just a case of resetting and tightening things. Tis fine now!

Hopefully you just need an allen key 😁

TBH, getting hold of parts for anything will be your hardest part.

Depends what you want to do and why you need a new mech? Want or need are very different!!

Crap shifting – i swapped jockey wheels on an old 105 when i first went 1x and that plus new cable was like new bike. some ceramic BBB rollerboys were half the price of a new mech.

But you’ll be stuck with matching to shifter so IMHO, just reuse and refurb given the current parts situation plus inflated prices.

Get a sunrace 10spd casette, the sunrace road link, possibly some new jockey wheels, new cable and A 1x chainring and chain and away you go. Superstar or ebay for aftermarket bling jockey wheels or just get new stock wheels. Not overly cheap though as its not far off replacing your whole drivetrain.

I think 105 is a bush in the jockeys rather than a bearing so wears and jockey wheels wobble. The difference in shifting wheni put new jockey wheels with a bearing on was unbelievable.

Spend a little time looking at gear ratios you use mostly in 2x setup so you get the right size chainring to keep gearing ratios similar. Bet you only really use about 5 gears tops.

First time “switchover” and there’s a tendency to over gear but check out wolftooths website. Loads of info on gear ranges. But i’d bet 11-42 and a 40 or 42 chainring will do you just fine.

CAAD 8 is FSA cranks isnt it? FSA do a 1x specific chainring which is what i had on first conversion. 105 rear mech, roadlink and the 1x ring. The 1x fsa ring isnt cheap though.

I’ve never run stock rings – always narrow wide 1x specific. you might be ok with them and maybe a chainguide to stop the chain drop.

Superstar do some 1x rings but i didnt think it was up to much. similar profile to a 2x chainring and it dropped the chain for fun.

Another why? I dont think you need to mix n match mtb and road kit. I do on my turbo to make a bike from parts to stay on the trainer and having used the jtek shiftmate its spot on for dry inside. Would i run it through muck and grime, not a cat in hells chance. It’d clog within 5 minutes.

I went 1×11 on my road bikes many a year ago and never looked back.

I’ve run shortcage 105 and ultegra mechs with 11-42 no issues. Granted not 2x. But i ran 11-34 with shortcage no issues on 2x too and could climb 25%+ on the road so if you are 2x i’d question why you really need it.

Bigger than 34T with shortcage and I need to run a roadlink to get b-screw clearance. But go for the sunrace one at about £10 and way cheaper than the Wolftooth one.

Mech capacity; yes i’m well outside recommended tolerance but a link shorter chain usually sorts that and one of my bikes set up this way is currently just over 10k miles and nothing like shimano recommended spec. But runs and shifts far quieter than the guys i ride with running stock 2×11

Search the auction place for “SunRace Rear Derailleur Extender Link Wide Ratio Cassettes Bike Bicycle”

£10.90

No joy there. Just a “server not found” type message.

I’m trying to do it on Safari….are they the sort of thing that needs more freedom via windows / PC?

You could try a slackerizier headset or whatever they’re called. Fairly sure superstarcomponents have some. Other brands are probably available. Slackens the front end.

Moves the bars a bit closer but moves the front wheel out a fair bit by the time you get to axle.

Not perfect and it will alter the steering slightly but IMHO, people get too hung up on numbers and stuff like that so real world you either wont notice it or you’ll get used to it.

But if you’re talking need the front wheel to move out a significant amount you definitely bought too small.

Went the easy route and swapped bearing in the freehub. 5minutes of a job to knock the old ones out and press new ones in.

All smooth and silky again!

Shame to be selling the bike but better that than stuck on a rack.

Doesnt the size guide recommend cl for 5’11”plus anyway?

The chap i ride with found the same as you with actual being a little shorter. But 10mm – can sort that with a stem change easy enough.

Thanks for the offer but recon I should be sorted.

It is 650b. The bikes currently running Fatsno’s on 29×2.6 to make it more of an all round but i’m just about to sell it with the mulefuts as second set of wheels. Which makes it even more annoying

Dont really want to spend a lot & LBS recon they can replace the bearings easily. Despite what most manufacturers say. 2 bearings, the shell, a big c clip and a sleeve of aluminium.

When you strip it down, you dont get a lot for your money!

Fantastic thanks. Tis the FB version so not exactly spoolt for choice if i had to replace the wheel!

That’ll definitely help me narrow it down.

Dont have a tempest but i do have a london road. 6’1 with 34 inside leg and ride XL. Feels pretty stretched and whereas i’d normally run a 100mm stem 80-90 does for the london road. Other than that it’s spot on for me.

Got a mate rides another planet x – cant remember the model. But, similar build to me. Riding a large and finds it cramped.

Check out geometry geeks for their geo comparisons. You can choose bikes to compare and I know the tempest is on there cos i’m looking at the same bike…in XL!

I can generally ride a 56 or 58 or large depending on brand and geometry

Email them.

Maybe the XC ones wouldnt be but i used to run American Classics at about 1300g a pair and 80kg with no issues. And stayed straight far longer than my current 1700g pair with my same body weight.

Weight of the wheel IMHO is a tiny part of the equation.

Maybe the AM would work. Maybe the Kilowatt would work.

Either way, i run Scribe & Silt and their customer response has been awesome. Drop em a note and see what they say.

Missis ran a bath so save me a job “shove over…need to check my wheels!” Went down well….

Valve leaking yet again. Brand new Muc-off too. Swapped the valve core and the rubber seal and seems to have sorted that side of things.

But, confused about this one. Found a tiny slit in the tread. Reusing the pirelli’s as they’ve only done 50ish miles. Air leaking from the slit but absolutely no sealant coming out (Muc-off). Never had that before. Plugged it. But even then it struggled to seal it. NEVER had that either. Dynaplug has, till now sealed everything. Left it to hopefully seal overnight.

Roll on tomorrow to see if they’re still inflated.

Interesting. They’ve lowered that from when i bought them. Sidewall plain as day “P ZERO Tm RACE TLR”. “Pressure Min 65PSI / Max 101 psi”. And there’s a few review sites quoting data from pirelli’s website saying 90ish for 28’s at my weight.

I know everyone says tubeless road “50-60 PSI”. My rims would last a week at 50psi. Or i’d be swerving so much i’d get squashed by tractors or trucks!

Riding home from work today they dropped from about 80 to 40. I was wincing at every slight bump in the road.

Thanks for all that.

Tyres pop to the rim, got 70ml of sealant and definitely tubeless.

70-80 is too low for the 28’s Pirelli recommends 90psi. Min is 65 so with a normal ride and em going down so much i’ve possibly fubar’d the tyre wall by now anyway.

I normally run 30 Pro Ones at 70-80ish but going back to 28’s, at much less than 70 the tyre does bugger all to protect the rim. I can tell they’re going flat mid ride by how much metal I can hear banging on the country lanes and squirming round corners!

TBH, the 28’s are flippin awful to ride compared to 30’s.

Here in Lancs the roads dont get fixed, the council just lowers the speed limit. Pretty soon all A roads will be limited to 20mph! Get into Yorkshire and cumbria and the difference is instantly noticeable.

Bathtime it is next and face the wrath of Missis S if i shed a spec of road dirt.