singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/do-pedals-expire/#post-12430660

Definitely not what they used to be! Had some mid 90’s atac’s that only recently died. Some of the newer ones i’ve all sorts of bearing issues and one set the plastic body cracked so the metal rods were free to move around!

Thanks. Been looking at the puck antenna’s. I’ll drill a hole in most things but draw the line at the bodywork!!! I’m going to look at suction mounting it and cable through the door rubber or something like that.

What i thought. I never seem to keep s bike long enough to clock up that mileage on a single bike. But the speedplays are the one thing i always keep!

Seems strange when they’ve done that far but no individual other bit of kit has.

All forks rock and knock to some extent as there needs to be a certain amount of play to allow the legs to move.

My BOS deville were really noisy rocking back and forth with the brake on. But they’re built to go up and down, not back and forth with the brake on and they were silent on the trail.

My fox 34’s were exactly the same but much quieter. Could feel the knock in the leg if i held the lower leg near the stanchion.

TFT said not to worry unless it was also really noisy on the trail. Play in the bushes is normal and intended, can be adjusted but generally ignore it unless it does it riding. Next service they commented there was normal wear on the bushes but well within tolerance. Forks still knocked.

Since moved to Rockshox and they dont do it.

If you cant hear anything moving them in the direction they’re meant to move and out on the trail then I wouldn’t worry.

I was chatting to a policeman recently and moaning about the amount if abuse i have to take for just cycling. if i picked on a non-white person and gave them abuse just for the sake of it then actively tried to kill them i’d get a prison sentence. Yet as cyclist its OK for a car driver to deliberately try to knock me off with no comeback.

He suggested i do as one guy he’d encountered last year. Apparently said person rode everywhere with a snooker cue strapped to his bike. Not front to back but sideways! Car drivers had no option but to give him a wide berth or risk damaging the precious lease car!!

Its a fact of life. Just have to get used to it, assume everyone has not seen you and will run you over. Ride defendively then get on google maps and find some quieter route options.

Aldi brioche rolls with Jam & emmenthal in em

Another plus 1 for the right pace and backing off your normal pace. i did my first 100mls after riding no further than 30 mls in a single ride, just backed off my normal pace. As said above 1-2 mph can make a colossal difference.

Also keep hydrated. Let your salts fall and cramp will be a killer. I always use a weak energy / hydration poweder. Never up to the recommended concentrations but enough to taste it. Drinking that stuff for long periods at full strength is…well i couldnt do it! Weaker usually keeps me hydrated enough to avoid cramp then i eat enough food for energy.

Really shouldn’t be getting water in the BB shell

Sealed is completely different to waterproof and theres no way you can keep water out of the shell. Bikes arent waterproof and riding all weathers water is going to get in somewhere.

Even with grease on the seat post it’ll still get in. Plus also along the spindle into the inside of the BB and if there’s a sleeve between the cups then it doesnt get out so slowly rots the bearings from the inside.

The GXP i’ve just taken off looks particularly crap as the top hat is plastic against the spindle so no decent seal.

When they fail I always fit WheelsMFG. They have a proper rubber seal against the bearings and spindle.

Shimano resin based rotors and sintered pads?

Cheaper Shimano rotors are resin only pads. I mad the mistake of fitting sintered pads to my road bike not realising rotors were “resin only”. Was embarrassing to ride.

Back to resin pads and job done.

I’ve never faced any braking mounts as long as i csn get my alignment sorted and never had an issue.

Squealing has always been a pad problem.

As i expected – BB is unhealthy. Took the seatpost out and noticed a fair bit of rain water down the seatpost. Cranks off and clicky shell side out. Water inside the BB and the bearings are stiff through 1/4 of the turn, spin freely round the rest so bearing fubar’d. Not enough to grind yet but still not spinning freely.

Was sort of expecting it when i took the cranks out as the drive side has that telltale rust ring round the spindle where the bearings sit.

The joys of all weather riding.

I’m going to put some inner tube around the seatpost collar / seattube gap to try and waterproof it slightly but is there any way to get water to drain out easily? There’s a small hole on the BB shell but its obviously not big enough. But really dont want to be drilling holes in my titanium frame !!

To be controversial WheelsMFG is the route I’d go.

Changing bearings in hope pro 4 hubs every 9 mths compared to never in 9 years on Pro 2 says they’re not what they once were IMHO.

I cannot see how there’s a fit and forget bearing for BB’s who spend time in slop and muck. Dirty water gets in, stays there for a while before slowly seeping out and will inevitably get through seals and grease to rot the bearings.

At best, the sealing might be better on the outside but every mtb BB i’ve had fail has rotted from inside out. Some quicker than others depending on the level of fill.

I had exact same on some Marzochi forks when the rebound was set too firm relative to compression and i think from a review i read that the rebound is too firm on these. But bird may well have custom tune.

Also, not sure if air / coil internals share some internals but my air shock developed the same sort of knock and the hot dog piston i think it is is known to cause that knock. Bird knew of it and so did TFTuned.

Give em both a call. Both usually super helpful.

As said earlier if preload is set properly I’d be amazed if its the spring moving.

More likely something simple. If it came in gradually then somethings worn…shock mounts / hardwear.

One last thing, when i went to 50t on my hope wheels the free hub used to bang & knock over bumps as the linkage moved, chain slackens slightly then tightens. Spent months chasing it and even sold a bike. Then exact same issue on new build with hope wheels transferred narrowed it to the hub. Frame is Large AM9. Currently running silt wheels and tis silent again.

No shoe laces!!! Wish it were that simple. Cleats are new.

I shall hit the garage armed with plenty of grease tomorrow and see what happens.

I’m almost certain its low down but no harm in some carbon paste on rails and seatpost.

I’m also pretty heavy on BB’s and rarely get more than 12mths out of one – on ir off road. Salt, water and grit inevitably gets the bearings.

Fingers crossed in the spindle grease as I hope for more than 3 weeks of the BB!! Race face i’d expect 3 rides before bearings seize. But SRAM?!!’

Life’s too short. Sure it’d make a small difference but i buy, set up and ride. Cant be doing with faff. Plus I find i usually adjust to how the bikes set up anyway.

I went through a phase of always adjusting and trying different setting and bike fit but was forever getting used to the change which negated any benefit.

Now i just ride and enjoy the ride without worrying about it. Sure, big changes like tyres make a massive difference but i know what i like and what works so fit em and forget. Same for stem length and bars.

But i never buy an off the shelf bike. I buy frame, build the spec i want then Set sag. Set rebound based on approximations provided previous fork service. Go ride.

Hardtail for winter and anything not trail centre. Full bouncer for shorter not trail centre rides or trail centres.

Fekin bad mood

Thanks.

The buy loads and send it back was my original thoughts but getting tired of having to do that!

Hope service is second to none. Sadly, if you’re going guides to hope he’ll cack himself and wonder why you took his brakes away.

I’m a fan of formula cura twinpots. Used to run hope v4’s on my heavy enduro and also my lightweight hardtail.

Switched to the cura twinpots on both bikes and they outperform the hopes in every area. Sure…twinpots on enduro not good enough? Well they stop me with far more confidence than the v4’s ever did. Stopping power, feel, simplicity, maintenance is streets ahead.

Personally I’d do as others say…stick with the guides till they break then if they do swap then.

Hope has the bling factor but for me, too much form over function. Plus i just took over 1kg off my enduro bike by dropping hope stuff. Looks good but heavy as fok!

I had similar “never quite right” with my shimano stuff. Always skipping and noisy. Especially at the slightest hint of grit and dirt. Recently switched to SRAM and tis night and day. Quiet, works, I never know its there doing its job.

However, I did find that with my shimano stuff the KMC chain I was using had a lot to do with it. KMc these days seem utter rubbish.

The 11sp SRaM kmc chain i bought to go on the new 11sp GX mech was too narrow to fit the jockey wheels. i think the slightly different KMC tolerances could have been the issue with shimano kit.

I briefly switched back to a shimano chain on shimano kit and it was a lot better. I’d bought sram mech and shifters by that point.

Never mind old bikes….some of the guys i ride with are so tight half of the above is still their “new bike” used week in week out!

Gotta take my hat off to PX in that they seem to have really upped their game recently. Especially on the customer service side of things.

I had an old 45650b that i never really got on with but recently bought the titanium tempest in gravel format. Finish is stunning and as you found with this, ride is superb.

When you put your first noticeable scratch on it and feel gutted, the bonus of raw titanium is you just get the kitchen pot scourer and rub it out!

Or more specifically there are some red 3M pads used for welding and metal work. Cut a strip about 10cm long, wrap it round the frame and a quick scour. Comes up like new.

Not today! Survived 20mls without a noise or grumble so longer bolt and threadlock did the trick.

LBS said they’ve had a few and rechasing threads might work if it gets worse. For now….sleeping fogs lie and only the dog off a leash that nearly killed me. Not the bike 😁😁

A quick browse on other bike forums where stripped threads and brakes are in the same sentence plus a fair few comments and observations when a disc mount stripped on some carbon forks a few bikes ago. Steel insert in the forks. But even bike shops were saying not to trust helicoil.

Guess they could have been worries about the anount of steel insert to drill at but general consensus was NO.

Subsequently done more reading and I’d most definitely trust then. Not so sure I’d trust myself to do it though which is a different matter!!

Thats sheephouse lane! Left at the bottom, left in Belmont!

We cycled the road for years then discovered the track that runs parallel to the right of the main road. That takes you up towards the track that comes off great hill.

If you head up that track, about 3/4 the way up there a what used to be a sheep track going off to the left but has become wider than the M6! That eventually drops you into Leadmines clough. Straight over the stream and up and it takes you to a country lane that you bear right and just follow it to the back of Healy Nab.

And if you can follow that you’re an explorer made!!

Enjoy.

Not sure where you’re going from or time but weather permitting we’ll be in Abbey about 5 ish if you want to see a map!! Bronze volvo – black windows.

In a van back up sheephouse!!!

More seriously, if you head into belmont, start off up sheephouse then at the end of civilisation before the hill proper cut right by the side of thenplaying fields and then at the end bear left and follow the track up the side of sheephouse (climb over a few styles). Makes the climb up much more enjoyable.

Back onto sheep house at ghe top of the hill and either road it to Healy Nab or get in OS maps to follow the tracks x country and parallel to sheephouse.

Drips uou into lead mines clough where you can climb and cross to the road over near healy nab.

Easier to show on a map but hopefully thats a starter.

Just be aware that its not all bridlepaths so smile nicely. Ebikes have well and truly fokked the paths so can be a bit confrontational with walker these days.

If you’ve a short cage mech then may need a goatlink or longer b screw.

I swap my wheels and indexing and brakes need asjusting. Hub widths are never exact and identical between brands. Same brand will be ok but not if you have say hope / hunt combination.

I had the older Dolan GXA running 42T with an 11-40 rear.

Hated the bike from day one. Couldnt put my finger on exactly what it was. And i couldnt get it set up right and always ended up with a dodgy knee no matter how much bike fit i did.

Swapped to a Planet-X tempest and never looked back. Knee pain none existent with same bike fit dimensions.

The newer version GXA looks better and I think has updated geometry so may be OK.

Cheap enough but I’d go Planet X for similar money built up.

Panic over for now!

Found a longer t25 bolt in the man cave. Enough good thread left to nip up to 4nm without feeling like it’d strip.

30 for 3 mths…wow. I’ve never achieved that!!!!

On the road side all schwalbe tubeless are followed by “TL” so you know its tubeless.

10psi in 7 days – I’d take that on my MTB!

My Maxxis lost similar, wtb about 5 psi in a week but my conti’s lose virtually nothing over a week.

Pump up before every ride you’ll be fine. 10psi a day…different story at that pressure.

My road tyres lose about 5psi every couple of days at 85psi starting.

You’ll never get totally air tight.

Cracking. Thanks chaps. I vaguely recall 3 bolts in racing.

I’ll live with it and just put a little more thread lock on to take up some of the gap and stop it rattling out.

Granite, sks and twofish all make velcro based “remote attachment” cage holders for around £15. Cage is extra. I’ve an AM9 and went through the whole “put it all on the bike” like the mags say we should. Gave up as the bottle would either be in direct line of crud or somewhere on the frame that always got in the way. Then they get knocked and move so catch pedals, nuts, shorts when standing over the bike.

Plus to survive more than an hour i need more than one bottle anyway!

I Gave up wasting miney on options that were bikepack orientated and for MTB, mediocre to a pain at best and just use a small low rider pack.

Leisure lakes have the granite. I think i got an sks mount from them too. The Twofish one I cant remember but think it was something like MTBriders or one of the more long distance bikepacking orientated shops.

If its a road bike, waste of time going tubeless for the sake of a ride every coupe of weeks. Just put a tube in. Less hassle.

MTB, IMHO stans is poop. Never sealed anything properly for me. Orange seal I used for a while but Muc-Off has been the best by far. MTB’s lose about 5psi a month when left standing.

But FWIW, after 3 yrs of tubeless commuting, above 50psi on the road bike and nothing will seal a typical glass shard puncture. Seems the pressure is too high to let sealant do its job. Once pressure drops to less then it starts to seal. Only a plug combined with sealant seal works well on the road bike at what I consider road bike pressures. Everyone says “tubeless road bikes…great….can rhn at 50psi and feel the comfort.” For me, comfort for 5mins then an hour of smashing rims on potholes and worn out country lanes!

There’s a difference between as much fluid as possible and overfilling. If you set the pistons back into the caliperwhen you do the bleed you cant overfill them as any excess gets pushed out of the reservoir when you roll the rubber seal back on.

If you leave the pistons out then you could overfill it but if you then push the pistons in the xs fluid will likely get forced out of a seal somewhere.

By far and away my biggest issue with E4 and V4’s was sticky pistons. I Got into the habit of spraying silicon lube on the pistons every 2-3 rides which sorted it in the main but they forever had a piston or 2 that was less “free” than others and always sticky during the ride. Nothing major, but enough to bind and grind more in sloppy conditions than anyone elses brakes!

Then the best upgrade I ever made on my V4’s was replacing them. With formulas.

Temporary fix is a load of nonesense IMHO.

5k miles on a dynaplug for me.

Other option is to patch from the inside. Same technique as for patching a tube. I bought some weldtite vulcanising glue plus a square of inner tube repair (10x10cm) off amazon for a few £. That tyres currently running a shade under 4k miles and still air tight.

Especially important as without fail, all my tubeless tyres puncture within the first 100 mls. Usually a nail or screw on our crummy Lancs roads. then never puncture again till they wear out!!

Quick link on the right way round and connected properly?

You need to work it through systematically. 13T cog is tiny. If it fouls the same point every time on the chain its the chain. If it fouls the same tooth every time then its the cassette.

IMHO, things like bent hangers and badly adjusted gears usually cause continual issues, not at a specific point every rotation.

But you’d be surprised how 1/4 turn or badly adjusted mech endpoints can cause issues only in certain gears.

Me, I’d start from the beginning. Undo cable. Set end points. Tighten cable and adjust up / down shift till it shifts smoothly through all gears and is quiet in all gears.

Then move on to looking at chain/tooth fouling.

If its he same with different cassettes then it does seem to point to set up.

Stiff chain link? Had similar recently and just one link was rusted enough inside to make it stop flowing nicely.

Gotta say i side with Silt/Scribe to some extent but either way, whatevers happened, The original OP asked about best wheels sub £500. Not whats the most ethically run / employee friendly etc etc company that sells wheels. Thats for somewhere else IMHO and something most of us havent got any knowledge of.

Virtually everything comes from the far east be that open platform or bespoke custom and there’s only so many factories making bike stuff. And the ethics. Phone any small brand and they can tell you about all sorts of antics at big companies.

“Best” is subjective but Silt is a fairly small brand. I think the performance of the wheels should do the talking. In that arena mine outshine my Hope pro 4 Tech Enduro and Pro 4 with Halo rims from a ride feel point of view.

i’ve never ridden Nukeproof wheels but the Silt are way lighter so will spin up quicker and i expect feel livelier.

Back it up with top notch customer service……

Or wheelsmfg. Fraction or the price and i’ve had similar experience to daffy. 2+ years & Burnley winters and still spinning.

singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/so-then-formula-cura-brakes/#post-12384434

Middle of a wet rainy car park….didnt fancy that one and losing a bleed port screw! I think they they feel better filled normally anyway.

Geometron didn’t advise doing that little hack either due to the way the internals work.