superstar components is your friend for 6 bolt.  Cant say i’ve ever seen centrelock shims but may be worth dropping an email:

https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/disc-rotor-spacers-6-bolt.htm

I know you may not be being literal with this

correct. 

out local council collects them so save batteries up then leave them out for recycling. 

Thought about opening it up or even trying to hook it up to my RC Car charger and see if i can charge / discharge but seeds of doubt. And I never get through the 3 cells that came as part if the smart charger bundle. 

It can go and be recycled. 

Thought so. I’ve got 2 others so recon i’ll just bin it.

Has this ever worked for anyone? It’s never worked for me.

it only ever works once you’ve got the rotor true first!

seems to be a necessary evil and why i went back to single piece rotors.  Floating rotors are never true and i found them to be an absolute bugger to true as I always seemed to fighting the float.  True on the stand then fairly quickly it seemed to “float” back to out of true.

one piece rotors are far easier to live with IMHO

Another +1 for oem or brands that make oem. 
uber are shat. So are most of the cheap stuff. Like buying a ferrari, complaining about tyre prices and putting remoulds in.

OEM formula pads are superb but i found i burned through organics in no time on the eeb. Accoustic bike is lasting well.

Now running Galfer and find power is just as good but they last considerably longer. Possibly compund difference but Galfer pads are a little cheaper. They make motorsport pads.  Nuff said for me.

Sorry – Dynaplug Rapid Racer.

dyslexia with Rapid Racer Products and this Rapid Racer always gets me. 🤦‍♂️

@razorrazoo RRP tubeless plugs are superb. Be a rare occasion you’d need to get the tyre off if you this in your jersey pocket.

You can say crazy again. I’m well p’d off. 
mainly country lanes riddled with pot holes and broken surfaces. I slalom to work but obviously tractor and death vs pot hole means i do my best to stay alive. 
the main area I get punctures is a shared cycle / footpath that gets thorns, glass and other shit washed onto it. Only option to avoid that section is a horrendous 5 junction 10 lane end of motorway monstrosity and dual carriageway so a bit limited. 
looking a little closer, last nights puncture is right at the edge of tread / sidewall so no way is there 3mm of tread there. 
for that bit of tyre to be on the road would suggest too low pressure or bump induced squash. But if anything at 60psi I’m apparently spot in / slightly above the silca recommended so cant see what i could do. 
at this rate i’m going to end up on my MTB’s commuting in as totally sick of road punctures. And yes, they are the tubeless versions.

What does a tyre pressure calc say you should be running at…

Looks like I’m about bob on with just under 60

@traildog

million $ questions I just cannot answer. Sealant, i’ve tried every single brand on the market over the years on both mtb and road bikes and never ever had a puncture seal without a plug.

i’m 99% convinced its all hype. Unless i just notice the large slits that are beyond sealant capabilities but on bith bikes the holes are definitely less than 5mm. Might cure over night but deffo not on the ride. Maybe all the thorn holes go unnoticed. I took the Schwalbe’s off and noticed it riddled with little pinpricks of sealant so small stuff i’m possibly getting away with.

Road punctures I think are a feature of the particularly shite roads I commute on. MTB punctures are definitely a rarity but at the moment, every single commute i’m using a plug. Hence getting the pirelli’s. Which dont seem any better!

here in Lancs the council doesnt fix roads  they wait till they’re too worn out for the current speed limit then reduce it a level  so all 60mph roads are gradually becoming 20mph limits!

All i can say is I’d rather be tubeless as this amount of punctures would be a royal pita to keep sorting tubes. At least the plug is a 2min fix and off again.

@oceanskipper a shade under 60 as i’m fairly well loaded up.

d’you recon pressure is causing issues?  My pro-ones I ran a little under max due to being loaded up.

has become habit to run firmer as with skinnier tyres, much less than max psi snd loaded and I’d be clattering the rims in potholes and knackered roads.

In our house “if you want forgiveness….talk to a priest”!!

Harsh but i have a hard time getting past a let down like this!

i suppose I should chalk it up to bad luck and see how the next ride goes. Bicycle tyres just arent cheap compared to what you pay and the amount of rubber you get in car thres!

@daffy….blimey….. I’ve had 9 punctures in the last month and not a single one has sealed!

But I would never ever go back to tubes for the simple reason any tubeless puncture is so easy to sort if it doesn’t seal. Plug. Pump. Go. No fekking around with wheel off, stubborn tyres, accidentally popping the tube putting stubborn tyre back on. 

way simpler being tubeless

Did you not realise the last highway code variation changes the priorities?

green = go

amber = accelerate

red = stop but only 2-3 seconds after turning red because there’ll still be clear road.

temporary traffic lights are only temporary if theres nothing coming.  Otherwise they’re temporary so dont apply.

at least thats what idiots round me seem to have adopted! 

I’ve tried virually every brand out there and none seal anything more than a thorn. At least not until the pressure drops. All the guys i ride with find the same but go to forums and mags and X sealant is the best thing since sliced bread.

road bike the pressure is way too high to seal anything and even on the MTB nothing seals until psi drop ps really low. Then it may cure and seal over night.

if it works stick with it. Otherwise buy cheap. I find Orange does the initial set up better than any other so I stick with that. Out on the trail they’re all of a muchness. Worst has been muc-off since they changed their recipe as that gloops after about 3 weeks of use. And seals no better!

Ride Slower

probably a fair point.

tis like literally chinese water torture and feels like I’ve been rained on more days than dry since about last august so each shower I sprint off with “fek sake….not again….just want to get there” in my head!

Might just change my name to Travis….

i suppose rising slower and staying cool opens up the choices

Wow. We just paid £350 with £10k limit on outbuildings with More Than. Bit tight on value for me but i just spent £150 on sold secure gold floor anchors and locks.

if its gonna go its gonna go and they’ll keep coming back knowing its insured but figured to get through the ground anchor and the mastif locks will take enough effort to disturb a neighbour. Hopefully!

bikes are always an insurance problem. A) getting insurance and b) being honest about the value will disclose how much money has been diverted away from the joint funds before she sees it!

Genius. I’m gonna be needing that soon.

So being thick, if old wooden posts and new concrete posts are same size then presumably its a case of trying to enlarge the hole slightly and enough for post and postcrete in. Rather than digging up potential huge lumps of concrete?  I’ve an old tractor hay bale spike which weighs a ton but fantastic at breaking up concrete.

or better to just go like for like posts.

I just assumed spain but now you mention it I dont know.

lead time is “about 3 weeks from acknowledging fault to delivery”. Plus a few days diagnostic and test to confirm at the outset followed by a few days at the end to fit it in and test its all working.

Spikes are a nightmare. As said earlier a false economy.

i tried one to fix a small section that came down. First problem was solid ground when the spike was only 3/4 way in. Second problem was when the spike was slightly out of alignment. Looked poop.

Currently using post buddy to hold up the odd post thats rotten at ground level. They work really well. But if the whole lots down then really best to start again. If you’re gonna dig holes for concrete posts just redo it all.

Yeah – a month for the warranty. Battery just stopped working and for whatever reason orbea only ship batteries overland and not by air. 

i guess too much risk of blowing up a plane!

Be aware that a lot of the mifi / preinstalled stuff will be slower than phone downloads as a lot are cat6. Phones will be cat19 so a noticeable difference in speed. Regardless of what the router advertises as wifi speed. The lower cat rating the slower browsing will be.

learnt that the painful way after serious whining from kids.

current set up is a Huawei B something Cat19 4g router with external aerial. I just pop my unlimited data card in the router and fall back on a payg esim i have. Do not underestimate the impact of an external antenna to help pick up a signal. Although not all aerials are made equal!

i also have a hard drive of predownloaded stuff for when signal is really non-esistent. I use a TP-Link travel router to bridge the drive and router as there’s no usb port on the router.

apple TV to stream or playback the pre-downloaded stuff.

decent wifi and download speed for the kids.

RRP on my selvas – the max / biggest they do. Conti 2.4’s and no issues whatsoever.

I know that feeling!

I usually cycle commute to work 1 day a week to get some miles in. 18mls  each way but if theres a westerly on the way home it. Feels like 180mls!!

Got a month to wait till the phoenix rises again so on my AM9 for fun. You forget just how much you have to work without a battery!!

Good shout. Thanks.

No

no

no

yes

in that order. Any weight and they just bounce around. Or you pull it tight enough to be stable and your guts will ache within 5mins and you’ll probably never s*** again.

biggest waste of money for me. Used it 3x and gave up.

got an osprey pack off sportpursuit for not much more and find it more comfortable, stable and all round much better.

but depends in whether hips or back or bike are your thing!

Have a look at the MRP Better boost. Not sure if there’s a pro5 kit or if pro4/5 is different fitting but I ran em on pro4’s for years without issues. Was way better than the hope offering as hope required a wheel redish. The MRP endcaps and disc spacer were sized properly so fit n forget with no wheel building involved.

Looks no more complicated than I remember trying to get to the battery in some Audi SUV?

IIR its compunded by the fact you cant actually open anything to get at the panels. Namely the bonnet. Without taking the wheel arch apart

no 12v charging access as std

if so, what happens if you leave the car for a month and the 12v battery slowly dies?

this is exactly what i saw James may whining about with his tesla. It wasn’t a month though. Was a fair while. 12v battery powers the locks and other low voltage stuff and always under low drain  but when it dies there’s no way to get into the car. Needs the 12v battery charging. But the 12v battery is apparently only charged when the car is running so no way to charge it easily

end result was take loads of panels apart to get a cable in to charge the battery.  And about 2 or 3 hours work i think. Absolutely stupid design!

Yeah – thats the part. TBH I have no idea what the difference is. Just got a message from the shop yesterday to say its all being sorted with the new design. Haven’t really kept on top of the differences in model year other than seeing some things are 2022 year specific.  Like battery and other electrical parts IIR.

got a month to wait though as the battery has to go overland rather than air ☹️

Update in my bike. Got to take my hat off to MTBMonster and orbea. I complained to MTBMonster about not fit for purpose when i took it in. Fully expecting to be told to go forth by Orbea.

No quibbles at all from Orbea or “Can you provide some more info”.
Warranty Replacement Charger

Warranty Replacement Battery

warranty replacement new style linkage which is apparently better at keeping the elements out.

Linkage is possibly a sign they know its not up to scratch for UK bad weather but either way I bought new for warranty and Orbea has been faultless. They could have been awkward about everything but they havent.
credit where its due!

fingers crossed its cool running from here on out!  Only the frame, dropper and motor are left unreplaced now 😬😬😚

Bit left field but my hands are the one thing i struggle with so after a little experimenting I’ve found after a certain thickness of glove it makes no difference other than bulk and wasted money. I even used pogies and Chiba Winter gloves and hands were baltic.
solution – thermal buff round my neck
keeping warm you need looser clothing than normal so circulation isnt affected,  Insulation and windproof.

Dont underestimate tight clothing impact.  cycling shoes are the worst thing ever for warm feet.  thick socks = tight shoes = numb feet.  Counterintuitive thinner socks and loose shoes = more room and my feet are warmer!
Then there’s the x-factor for me. I think there’s a conditioned response whereby your body slows circulation to extremities if it feels like its too cold. For me, exposed cold chin / neck area made my body go into that “holy shit its cold…panic….stop bloodflow to extremities” mode!!
keep your core warm, look at your arm warmth then thermal and windproof gloves but dont expect to buy the thickest gloves ever and keep warm. 
-6 windchill today  chiba winter gloves, baselayer, endura windproof HC and the all important neck warmer and hands were toasty

Life span and cost to run are very separate things!

mines 400mls old and its off the trail more than on it. I bought new because i wanted warranty and boy have i needed it!  Plus it chomps through linkage bearings like they go out of fashion and they’re sadly not a warranty item. 

currently going through a not fit for purpose request with Orbea but i know what the outcome will be. 

if you plan on second hand or keeping long term then get one with a motor thats easily rebuildable. Few £00 to rebuild or £1k if buy replacement. From personal experience I’d also buy something designed in a country / region that sees loads of bogs n swamps  or has been tested in bogs n swamps like we have!  Or at least somewhere where it rains  a lot and isnt dusty all year round.  That was my big mistake  

Add more sealant and see if that sorts it

I’m convinced sealant is a marketing gimmick. Only thing sealant does is sort the initial set up. Tried 10 different brands and not one has sealed anything out on the road. Mags claim testing seals up to 5-6mm cuts. Not in my world or the glorious Lancashire pot holed tracks we call roads!! Even left overnight then reinflated.

Oohh really? Time to replace then. Bugger.  Replaced a tyre on the runaround corsa yesterday.  Cheaper than a tubeless road tyres!  And a million time more rubber purchased too!

my conti’s lasted way longer before getting to the seriously annoying puncture every ride status and were way closer to tread wear indicator being worn out!

Thats the direct mount one isnt it?  My elite started doing that and the freehub grease had gone thick and manky. Think it absorbed water from being in a damp garage. Popped off the freehub and cleaned it all plus some new grease and all good again. Assuming your gears are all set up properly then thats where I’d look.

Been through this over xmas. 
expansion vessel is pumped up by a normal car foot pump / track pump / hand pump.

there’s a car valve on top or side of it. Just like a car / bike. Let a tiny bit of air out. If there’s water coming out your vessels popped. If not then its not the vessel. 

Depending in where the water goes if pressure vessel uou’d also have a puddle somewhere. On an old boiler, Ours drained onto the drive and there was a continual puddle.

this time filling the boiler 5x a day we ended up using trace and access off house insurance as finding anything under the floor is a royal PITA if its a tiny drip. Unless theres a load of rotten wood.

trace and access finds it, gets access to it then puts it all back together. They use thermal cameras and so on.  Condition is you get your own plumber to sort it but we just paid the guy who the insurance used to find the leak to replace the damaged section. Cost £100 for the insurance part and plumber £40. 

local plumber wanted over £1k per day as crawling around under floors is a sh1te job!  And doing the tracing yourself you’ll be paying well north of £500 plus the repairs. 

house insurance renewal price not impacted. As always we shopped around and got it for cheaper than last year with better cover for bikes too!  Bonus 😁

couldnt fault the service. Access eith minimal damage and all put back together like you’d never know what happened. Laminate flooring coild be an issue getting proper colour match if you dont have spare boards from same batch. But the access people should be able to work round as best they can.

other option is to put some seal in one of the radiators, run the ch for a day then let it cool. It’ll fix small leaks but will fail again and if the leak is more than a dribble it wont work so best to find and sort if you’re topping up daily.

if the lever feel on the Acura 4 should be ‘pull lever ever so slightly and brakes are locked up’ kinda feel as a pose to Shimano where the lever will travel a god but before proper biting

no it shouldnt be like that.

Mine have about 50% travel towards my bars before rear locks and front is popping my eyes. Similar lever travel to my Deores. Just a much nicer feeling brake with way more stopping power.

I think i could cope with what I’ve had to replace IF i’d done big miles.

but at around 400 mls i consider it pretty shocking bordering on disgraceful.

i suppose there’s lemons in every brand but I thought some of the comments in the emountain bike magazine 2023 “big test” were pretty telling…….

half the bikes had problems and some of the bikes didn’t make it through testing!  Most problematic were the lightweight end of the market and those with what I’d call new kids in the block motor brands but across the range tested there were all sorts of niggles and issues and bad design like displays sticking out front ready to snap off at the first fall.

as my riding mate says “consider it the pioneering early days of ebiking. 10yrs time it’ll be like acoustics are now.  You’re a pioneer…..” 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

I’d settle for it just working!

Went to the bike shop today for diagnostic.

Add battery failure to my list of issues. After 400mls!!!

Yet another warranty claim on top of the warranty claim i raised on the charger last week so now gotta wait a month for orbea to ship a new battery.

Bike shop also raising the “not fit for purpose” with orbea but from their experience with orbea they’ll say “forks, not orbea. Mech, not orbea. Brakes, not orbea. Hubs, not orbea. Battery is and they’ll say “thats what warranty is for”. So only real option will be legal fights and CBA with that. So fix and flog me thinks.

slightly worrying that the bike shop has already experience that not fit for purpose with orbea!!

live n learn. Wont be buying a brand designed in sunny dry climates.