My schwalbe ones fell off the rims all the time when deflated. I just pumped them back up to 70psi then rode them with no issues. Some tyres just do that.

have you tried putting the valve in them pumping back up?

50 psi is only just bordering on enough pressure to pop onto the rims but pump them up till the pop on then set the pressure.  If they really wont pop onto the rim i usually run some soapy water round the bead or a quick spray of silicone.

i’ve had them deflate with punctured and they’ve still stayed put. Only when really low psi did they pop back off but a c02 was enough to pumpmup and get going once plugged.

Check everything for damage, torque it correctly and monitor.

i’m thinking this.

No visible damage. I recon i mucked up the install putting that extra shim in.

I’ve come to the conclusion there’s no absolutely perfect ebike and loads of myths / rose glasses.

i love my rise but hate my rise for all the mechanicals it has. Not much of what is currently on it is what it left the shop with due to failures of one sort or another.

chatting to a chap out a few weeks ago about his levo i think it was.  I was moaning about the crap reliability of the orbea rise to which he replied “i love this bike. Superb.  Deffo have another. Its Had 6 motors on it as they all crap outetc etc…”  Cue horrified look!

as my riding mate says “we’re pioneers in the early days of ebikes”  Bottom line is electrics and uk climate just dont mix IMHO.  with all the extra power a motor brings, the weight of a motor and battery, mud n gritty grinding paste for 350 out of the 365 riding days and underneath the marketing BS its all pretty much bog standard acoustic bike kit I think all ebikes will suffer to some extent compared to acoustic then factor in the way we all ride and where we ride you’ll get loads of different stories.

if i rode my rise only dry weather dusty trails it’d be fine. I ride all weathers and where i ride its predominantly mud and grit and can almost predict what’ll fail and when.

if you go in eyes open and expect more running costs then they’re all of a muchness but some are more problematic than others to haul over gates n fences due tothe weight

But if like i did you go in expecting reliability, longevity and overall running cost of acoustic bikes then you’re in for a big surprise

Thanks for the advice. Hand’t thought about “swapping sides”.

Interface all looks ok now its cleaned up. Its Cinch rather than isis.  Deffo no chewing up the ends of the axle as I caught it before it was at that point although tolerances who knows!

Thinking I probably overshimmed it to start with so the crank wasnt fully onto the axle. I’ve some lock tight from bonding the crap V1 ally Rise linkage so will remove a shim and if its still coming lose I’ll bond it and using the other side.

Sorry – no, not the preloader.  That was rock solid. It was the drive side crank coming loose and letting the cranks slide side to side + drive side crank wobble.

My first foray into 1x on the roadbike was a superstar 1x narrow wide. Granted it was big at 48T but it dropped the chain for fun at the most inappropriate bottom twitching moments!

deffo cheaper but feels way thinner and not really that different to stock rings so put me off using them again.

Thought so. Spacers and chainline I can sort. Was wondering about the relatively big distance from direct mount to teeth vs bolts mount to teeth and bendy chainrings but i guess I’m over thinking it!

@sam_underhill

whats the A3 sizing like?  Nearly clicked the button on one but then read they size small and the sweat mover is pretty marmite!

they’re on offer at Saddleback ATM. Cheaper than direct from troylee.co.uk who probably divert the order to Saddleback to fulfill as UK distributor!

Good shout on halfords. Written them off as muddy fox type stuff so wouldnt have thought of them.

Got a lazer coyote on sale and fits like a glove.

Hard to get but Dermizax works spot on for me. So breathable compared to my goretex I actually get cold (not from boil in the bag sweat) from it dumping heat out so well.

Same conditions in goretex and its way warmer soon building to overheating.

only seems to be found walking / skiing jackets rather than cycling jackets though.

tis heavy compared to goretex though.

I haven’t read about any problems with the new style linkage. Is this a common thing?

Hope not!

Bike shop fitted my new linkage aling with the new battery. It came lose in first 10mls then again 15mls later. No locktite on it though.

tightened it back in the man cave but came lose again next ride.

Took it apart this time, found bearings had also started griding in new linkage after that first ride.  sorted bearings and back together with loctite. Not had chance to test. Hopefully 3rd time lucky as sick to the back teeth of this bike. “A right lemon”

I only find mine flexi when the linkage comes undone, otherwise it’s fine.

Orbea have sent me the new version of the linkage too for when I get around to it.

And on the new one it comes undone every 10-15 mls and is in a bugger of a place to get a socket in tight and torque properly out on the trail. Frame is just in the way so really needs the shock undoing to extend the rear triangle enough to get allen key in straight.  Doable on the trail but risk of round the bolt due to the angle you can get a mini socket in.

I’m one of those “internet haters” but my experience, get something else designed to work around mud n slop.

i’d probably try canyon next.

thanks for the update.  Not too far a detour round.

i was thinking of going up to Stones Bank and joining there but that little route is much quicker. Taking a newb out and by that point i’ve a feeling the hill up might kill him so short cut will be way better!

@kelvin

nope to the motor but yep to the brakes. Discs both ends.  And stupidly small routing holes too

Internal routing is a doddle with the right kit. I uses to dread it but now wouldnt be phased at all by it.

Built up my Dolan Commuter expecting internal routing to be a PITA. But bought a magneic kit off Amazon for less than £10 It actually took less than 10mins to route cables and hoses.  Was amazed how simple it actual was .  However, had i tried to do it without the kit theres no way i’ have been able to do it.

internal routing isn’t going to render old bikes obsolete.  Plenty of other things like 26” wheels or rim brakes will do that way before internal routing does.

what i do wonder about internal headset routing is damage if its not done right.  I’ve seen bodged internal routing cut theough a cank axle as the outer was resting on whilst axle was spinning.

Been here a couple of times and you will save money. But I came to the conclusion its better when you’re all in the upper tax bracket. Benefits are less lower down the food chain and not siginificant enough to not own the bike etc etc.

when i did mine there was a) lost the bike i wanted cos it took so damn long to get a certificate b) got charged the admin fee and c) final balue wiped out the rest of any significant benefit.

wouldnt bother again. If i couldnt afford the bike or couldnt save up for it I’d just interest free credit card it with some cash back.

one big plus is money comes out of your pay before hitting your bank account so the only benefit I could see was my missis didnt really know how much the bike cost and I didnt really have to be as squaky clean abouy it!!  So it made family harmony a lot easier. Other than than, tis a bit of gimmick / hype IMHO.

just seriously annoying that they’re the smallest bearing on the bike and twice the price of all the others!  Hope they last longer than main pivot and linkage bearings.

Website is so slow!  Just seen your amendment.

i got the DR 1017 2RS from Kinetic Bearings. Air Velo sells DR 10177 2Rs but they’re the only place with 10177’s listed and piccy has black seals. whereas everywhere else lists 1017 and shows red seals which is whats in the bike and what orbea sent.
red seals both sides and visually identical. Unless its something to do with the race inside i think as you say, both are real and both are the same!

DR10177 are real.

whats the difference?  I ordered some 1017 from UK a d the 10177 from orbea. Writing on the seal is too small for my aging eyes but i cant see any real world difference!  Dimensions are the same.

Well maybe I was a little harsh about the bike shop & bearings.

orbea blueprints are a little misleading!  DR10177 bearings are none existent. Could only find 1017 bearings in UK so ordered from orbea.

Seems like No difference between 1017 and 10177 bearings!  And where the blue prints imply the inner lip is inly on one side of the bearing its actually on both sides so the bearing is NOT uni directional as the blue prints imply.

hats off the bearing pro tools too. Their press and drifts are superb. Postage really quick and helpfulness top notch.

New bearings in. Hardwear to fit tomorrow then its back and running. For a couple of rides at least…then I’ll be doing it all again no doubt!! 🤬🤬🤬

I’ve been riding 5-6 days a week for the last 2years and recently noticed some strange little openings developing down the sides of my rib cage.

Turns out they’re gills.

Dont touch the race face 30mm BB’s. Bearings are made of cheese and will fail after a ride.

I usually use Wheels MFG 30mm but recently tired a praxxis one from Merlin. Cheaper than hope or wheels and so far really good bearing life.

I discovered last night that the LBS has fitted my bearings the wrong way round which has potentially causes the shock yoke bearing issues. The extended inner race should point outwards not inwards as mine are. Means the yoke bolts wont seal the gap between bolt head and yoke properly which exposes the bearings to grit and water more so than normally.

I referred back to the blue prints and had it been the other way round I wouldnt have needed the specific 10177 drift with the recess as I’ve other drifts that would do and potentially the bearings would have lasted longer. 🤬🤬

The seals are external do sit between the rocker and bearings. From the blue print they’re directional and probably do offer slightly more protection from the elements. But given our swampish environment ATM they seem to have made naff all difference.

Latest experiences

got my new charger and battery under warranty. All good there.

got the new linkage under warranty and fitted by bike shop….all still sh1te there 🤬🤬

Linkage bolts came lose after 10mls.

75 miles and bearings creaking like mad. Stripped it down to find frame bearing grinding on the drive side. Despite the seals the bearing was full of brown crud. Cleaned and relubed and smooth but not yet ridden because…and put the besring seals on THE CORRECT way round as they were back to front.

whilst its was stripped i found one of the new shock yoke bearings also grinding. Seals are so small and being double row I need to pop this out and will most likely just replace.

i also found the yoke bearings have been installed the wrong way round. According to new blue prints the protruding inner bearing race should face outwards but mine were facing inwards. Probably means the bolts wont seal yhe bearings as well as they should.

and whilst it was strip I also found the end of the bolts that fix the seat stays onto the home looked might knackered. Almkst lime cross threaded and non-drive side seemed to have the final portion of thread missing!

seriously p’d off and just had to order a load of new bits for it.

should i take it back, probably but it’d be off the trails for another 6 weeks vs. 2-3 for parts from orbea and DIY and I know it’ll be done right.

🤬🤬🤬🤬

@phil5556

Just got a message to say relevant drift now added to their website.

Press for Extended Inner Race Bearings

A little leason from my experience is make sure you read their set up BEFORE you go! Dont do typical bloke I dont need to read instructions.

i used nomad on a trip to turkey. They have fixed carrier options or use any carrier a available which gets round the some carriers have better coverage and potentially stuck with a carrier thats blackspot where you are.  Something to keep in mind

I didn’t fully read their instructions and
activated it in the UK so it downloaded UK APN. Worked fine in blighty so i thought all good. But it wouldn’t work in turkey due to roaming not being allowed. You buy your country, you activate, you get service. Change country and it wont roam.

Right faff…but once at hotel on wifi I managed to get correct APN settings and got it working.

+1 for the bontrager.

And +1 for take co2. Then get a smaller pump for just in case.

I have the 1l and more than enough room for tube, mucoff tool bag, co2 and a Lezyne micro pump and my phone.

The lezyne pump is small enough to go in the mucoff bag. And more than enough to get tyres up to a decent pressure.

Not a gel but I switched from gels to Luchos. IMHO they’re miles better. Notable difference in energy compared to gels….to the point the comparison is like comparing gels to snake oil. I prefer the taste too. I get the boxes when they come up on Sportpursuit. Often short dated but i just ignore the best before date them. Never had them cause the world to fall out of my bottom yet. Even when months past best before!

I’m not so sure on the cascade. Lot of cash, especially with the preload kit but still no real sealing of the bearings so that main pivot bearing is just as exposed as stock. And I cant see it being enough to stiffen up the back enough to stop flex induced creaks once the bearings get a little rough.

Think i’m just gonna stock up on bearings so they’re always on hand.

@phil5556

Sad to say no improvement at all. If anything its worse as the design is harder to get at the shock yoke bolts to torque up as I found when they came loose on a ride 5mls after coming back from the shop.

50 mls and main pivot bearing creaking like mad and gritty. Had to sort that yesterday. Again. And whilst it was all apart i noticed the shock yoke bearings were also gritty. Its had 2 really nasty weather rides but even so, my Bird AM9 gives me 0 bearing issues at all.

ordered some dentist picks so going to clean and regrease the shock yoke bearings first before they get too bad.  Tis a stupid design putting those bearings in as few places seem to sell them and god knows where to get a press.  The old one was far simpler and lasted longer than these seem to. I’ve emailed one of the companies that sells drifts and loads of bike kits so keeping fingers crossed

It is easier to disassemble the main axle etc being in 2 parts rather than 3 but seriously p’d off with it. Design is poop for the uk as even with the new axle / bearing seals in reality it does naff all to keep the water out.

i think 2 main issues are its designed and built for sunny spanish climate and the back end is so flexy through the linkage area its exposes bearing issues instantly. Burlier less flexy bikes dont expose it as the bearings only moving in one direction.

my mates Gen 1 canyon ebikes goes through same conditions and he’s had to replace 2 shock bushes. I’m on third full set of bearings with main oivot being done 4 times  🤬🤬🤬🤬

At least the creak and click is an early warning sign to say “bearing service required” so in theory can do it before replacement required!

Anyway….hacked of rant over!  Sorry.

@scotroutes why have you still got haribo in stock!  That’d get “used” in no time in my garage :)

If sealed cartridge bearings did as the name implies water shouldnt get in!  Just means there’s a seal. Not that they’re completely sealed to the outside.

That is exactly what i’m finding with just a bit of water getting in each ride being enough to cause grittiness really quickly.

at the moment I’m getting at best 100mls before my Rise suspension starts creaking due to bearing issues. Worst bike I’ve had for it. Its a shat design so something to live with. No other bike has been this bad and I’ve stopped washing it completely in the hope of preserving them a bit longer. I cringe seeing people jet washing!

With 100mls before noise and issues there’s no way I’m replacing. Yesterday I cleaned up and regreased one of the bearings that was gritty. Runs smooth again and no creaking so really is no need to replace. LBS suggested no issues at all with regreasing, especially given the bogs n swamps round here.

i’m just amazed the motors still working but thats another story!

And as said earlier, there’s naff all grease in from the factory. Even max fill. Cheapo ones even less and some I’ve had seize after a single ride then couple of months no use.

Maybe I still hark back to childhood days and sharp things but i just dont trust myself with small bearings and ultra sharp tools!  Even if they’ve lost there edge slightly there’s still a lot more potential with a blunt scalpel or stanley knife than other types of blunt knife.

Cracking idea!  Thanks. I’ll take a look.

I never used CRC as their tyres weren’t necessarily for UK markets and from chatting to some in the industry OEM tyres designed for hotter climates or different climes to our swamp lands. So different compounds etc. no idea whether true or just heresay.

I always use Merlin, Tredz, Biketart, Rush Cycles and occasionally Tweeks. If in the orifice theres a leisure lakes next door so often got them to order things in and price match which they alway do without too much fuss.

CRC / Wiggle has always been a port of last resort for me based on some questionable “New” but so obviously wasn’t  parts so cant say I really feel any pain from the recent demise

All my fleet runs 12 spd across a mix off 11 and 12. Inner dimensions are the same, its the outer thats thinned down to allow tighter clearance when downgrading to the worse performance of 12 speed combined with more unnecessary cogs!

i generally run sram chains on both shimano and sram drivetrains.

If only Russia made mtb flat shoes

if only…..I’m looking at half the shoes linked or mentioned and thinking straight away i’ll need to remove big and little toes as a minimum to stand a chance of comfort whilst out!

Endura have a pair:

https://www.cyclestore.co.uk/endura_mt500_burner_flat_waterproof_mtb_shoes_2024-ID_88827

They’ve a fair bit of choice too. Hand’tlooked at cyclestore. Thanks for the nudge!

So, should the title of this thread be “with so much choice of winter flat shoes, which ones deserve my investment?”

fair point!

might be my vpn but wasnt getting much in this country.  But equally thats a heavily US focused site so getting from UK shops isnt always the easiest

probably even better title would be “shoes that fit a normal to wide foot”

Tried almost every brand and style before settling in the 2FO’s as they were the only style that fitted without squashing my feet