It was, I’ve just sent it to Dave Weagle for his collection – I thought I’d send him a copy of the review too, if I can find one.
Cheers.

Or Hurrah Torpedo…

How about…
http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HCHg0SX2Vg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I bet they come in a lovely box.

In single speed mode the KM has stupidly massive tyre clearances.

For real. We’ve built a couple of half fat KM, with an Endomorph front tyre (using a Pugsley fork) and a 26×3″ rear tyre on a nice wide Halo rim. Easy way to try the fatbike thing, without having to get a purpose frame.

Nope, the eccentric shell has an ID of c55mm, BMX shells are smaller. About 52mm if memory serves.

The Surly Karate Monkey is probably the next cheapest. Can’t think of anything else new that’s in the same £350ish region.

Salsa El Mariachi or Surly KM, but the Swift is certainly the most popular of them all.

If you’re anywhere local to us, we’ve got all three in stock at present, so you can ‘go compare’, if you like.

Sing that song or turn up with a daft wiggly ‘tache and I’ll gob in your tea though.

Cotic Soul, Maverick ML7 (2004 and still going) and Kona Explosif (1992)

Ooh, ML7. Definitely, blown away on the first ride back in 2001. Sold that particular bike and then managed to buy it back again. Still ride it, still love it.

Somewhat surprisingly, the Surly Moonlander. It makes no sense at all, but is just brilliant.

I want one.

I was cynical about the Moonlander in ‘what the **** do you need tyres that big for’ kind of way. Then I rode one. It was ace. Takes a little more effort to get up to speed than a regular 26″ wheeled bike, but once you get there, very little will stop it.
The grip is amazing, the thing corners like it has no right to and it was just the most fun I’ve had on a ride in a long time.

Think of it as an excuse for another bike and you’ll be right.

I’m 5’9ish and our large demo bike was just fine for me. They’re small bikes – you would be cramped on a medium – small would just be silly.

Surly do a Fixed/disc hub that isn’t bonkers money.

Fixed off road, actually, fixed full stop, is just plain silly though 🙂

Also, like with all sealed bearing components, don’t spray GT85/WD40/Any thin lube into the bearing area. It will get past the seals and will disolve what little grease there is and cut bearing life very short.

Can’t be that difficult – depends how willing to strip the bike down you are…

Got your mail Mike – thanks.

The Australian guy got back to me too 🙂

Thanks all.

Try again to the info@ address. I can’t see your profile cuz ir spaz.
Sometimes Judith checks the mails and deletes anything that isn’t to do with horses or shoes.

hey Tim – sent you an email yesterday about a 135mm hub build – don’t forget to come back to me!

Are you from Australia? If not, can you send it again I can’t see anything that I’ve not replied to.

Ta.

Thanks for the kind words folks. I can be very hit and miss, I’m well aware of that. If I get on it straight away then there’s usually no problem, but if I get distracted, or put stuff off until later, then I can often forget all about whatever I was doing in the first place.

Well, it was a long time ago 🙂

Just for clarification, the seal only pops out when the outer leg has filled up with air from a leaky air chamber. Or it’s been overfilled with lubricating oil.

That’s all there is to it.

They are a good fork but just make sure they’re not old OEM with the crap grey seals that leak after your first ride.

I’m pretty sure that the SC32 never came with the old black seals. Even so, if you get a NOS fork, keep in mind that it has sat in a warehouse/shop floor somewhere in the region of five years. Over that time the o rings and seals will have degraded anyway, so a service would be a good idea sooner rather than later.

The SC32 is currently out of production. There are a few pairs of NOS SC32’s still kicking about from back in the day. Pick up a set and we can sort out any problems that might arise. Servicing is no problem and most parts are still available and will be for some time.

DUC36’s are on the horizon, carbon upper, like the DUC32 was intended to be, should be a stunning fork.

Nice Spitty Tim, on the look out for one myself for a year.. I want a second fun car I can bond with over a head rebuild, but need to hide it from mrs b somewhere
Is that a Mk IV?

It is. We picked up a Mk3 for my lad to restore last year, he’s 14 in a few days time so has three years in order to finish it. I got bored waiting for him to make decent progress so went looking for one of my own. This one isn’t a colour I really wanted, but it was too good an example to let go and it was local. They do need to be garaged though 🙁

What motor’s that got Tim? I had a 1500 O/drive bucket of fun.

It’s a ’72 with the last of the 1300’s. Apparently it’s the worst of all the engines as it has the smaller capacity of the 1300 with a larger crank, so it’s not as revvy as the small crank 1300 or as torquey as the 1500. It’s still a hoot though and once the engine needs a full re-build those issues can be addressed.

O/D would be nice, but I just avoid motorways where possible, so you get a nicer drive (even though it takes ages to get there…)

You don’t need to have a fast car to enjoy driving. I’m loving the whole ownership experience of this:

It’s free to tax, £100 to insure, 50mph in it feels like 100mph in the mustang did and I get to fiddle with it’s workings and you can still get every single part of it either new or repro.
You feel like a proper man after rebuilding an engine or the suspension. Proper boys toys 🙂

Get someone in the UK to look on transglobal express. UPS via TGE will have it there in 1-3 days for £25.

This is my lads car. We were given it as a project for him to restore – it’s been great so far, he keeps a blog, goes and works on it when he gets a chance and he’ll end up with something that he’s proud of and knows how to fix. I help him out with heavy lifting, stuck bolts, knowledge and funds! Insurance if he were 17 now is £1900, but we might be able to reduce that via the owners club and proof that he’s restored it.

Tried ’em all, and everything online. He even picked up a virus visiting a south african metal supplier’s website 🙁

Ta.

Did anyone else make it to the Redditch International? Harry Leary,Greg Esser, Team Kuwahara and racing in my age group was Jason Jensen – he won by about half a track.

Yep, used to race at Astbury, then Congleton. More recently (actually 15 years ago!) at Crewe, Chorley, Alvaston and Bruntwood.

I keep kidding myself that I’ll take my newly built PK Ripper over to Crewe for a blast – having seen it now though, I’m not too sure…

Currently it’s this…

They are in production and we’re gauging interest, but I have to buy them in 50’s, so round up a few mates and we’ll get them on the way.

They look exactly like the 8 speed version.

tapered fork, into a tapered headtube. So 1.5″ bottom, and 1 1/8″ in the top

Its for a ASR5, and some RockShox revelation tapered forks

Ah. Sorry, I have a Hope 1.5/taper converter headset here that wasn’t needed on a build when the cutomer realised he had a different fork than he thought he had.

What do you actualy need? I’m not familiar with Yeti’s of late, but might have something that will do the job.

Is it a 1.5 headtube and a tapered fork steerer, or is it a tapered headtube?

No parts are available and they can’t be serviced easily as a result.

See above.

Hope do one, so do Cane Creek. I’d go Hope as it’s easy to get hold of from your LBS. Beware the fork clearance under the down tube though.

Light and Day by The Polyphonic Spree – tons of layers and everything from high to low frequencies.

Standard test is In the Air Tonight though 🙂

Salsa did some. We still have a couple in 26″ disc only. They’re not super highly mirror polished though. I’ll take a pic when I find them and post it here if you like.