What these mags need is a decent knowledgable engineer that can critically comment on bikes and equipment they are given and provide readers objective information…or is that too sensible? Too many reviews follow what the comments here already say, results are all too often not based on the merits of the bikes

is that triscombe on the quantocks? Didn’t know there’s a dh track there. I tend to explore the trails at the west Quantocks head end. I do get as far as triscombe but not dropped down the north side of the hill. If you know the area drive to the parking spot at staple plain at the far end of the quantocks, go up the hill on the right hand trail, follow it as it curves round to the right. You’ll come to a bit where there’s a grassy patch on the right, that’s the drop in for weacombe, a great trail that drops quite a decent way.
Only thng is once you’re done its a bit of a hike up to the top again 🙂
I usually start near the bottom and climb up, do my trail riding around the top and then finish with a blast down the welcome descent – but then I’m not on a massive dh bike!

I just bought a cheap one from halfords, has all the major allen key sizes on plus hex key for rotors, flat head and cross head screwdrivers, and a chain tool… Chuck it in the pack and good for any trail side fixes. Even better is it has all the things you need but fraction of the price of others!
Any major stuff that needs doing I use tools in the garage 🙂

I’ve always ridden with Shimano brakes. Simply because they never need servicing (touch wood). I’ve no experience with Hope kit as it’s rarely on sale, but i’d love to try them out.

Well, they’re worth a try. my first set of mono mini’s are still going strong…no probs hence the new purchase of more. good solid British engineering 🙂

right, got the E4’s 🙂 …now to trim the hilariously long hose without p*ssing brake fluid everywhere. Is it possible to do without a bleed?

and on hubs 150mm has been round for yonks as a DH standard.

135/142 is essentially the same hub with different axle configs for different dropouts.
The choices are
135 QR – probably what you have
135 10 (and maybe 12)mm axle – if you put a bolt on normal dropouts instead of your QR
142 12mm for a dedicated 142mm setup which is bolt only and a little wider.

If you are going Hope the 135/142 is the same hub with different end caps for Pro II Evo and later. Pro II is 135 but can have the innards swapped to make it 142.

Ah, well that’s all nicely explained. Cheers for that 🙂 yes sounds like a reasonably simple process going to bolt through from qr – pop end case off, swap axle, new caps on and go ride! Have to love hope for that bit of cleverness

Sounds like the one to get. At £9 can’t realky go too wrong.
Just have to make sure I get the right sized hub! So much for standards, some joker decided to bring out 142 and 150mm widths when I wasn’t looking…
Assuming the 135 was the standard until those came along, thinking I might change qrs to bolt through, do they become 142 then? Who thought all these numbers were a good idea?

From London to Birmingham? If you caught the train into paddington then either follow the canal straight from there or head south west-ish to the thames path at Hammersmith and follow that along as mentioned above to where the canal joins at Brentford (look on the map, it’s just to the west of Kew bridge). That way you get to see the Thames in a quieter part of town and then from Brentford you just hit the tow path and crack on.
🙂

DO – give well meaning advice on a forum if someone asks a genuine question for it.

DON’T – be a dick and give a dumb response that is of no use to the OP…

ah, see thats the sort of thing these clips omit – different lacing patterns and tensions etc.
I think they’re standard 32 hole rims, only vaguely aware differing lacing patterns exist but no clue on benefits of one over another. I’ll see if I can dig up the resources referred to above. Thanks chaps.

Had this. Neighbours would go out leaving their dogs, they bark non-stop…you just want to shoot the sods – but knowing it’s not their fault thats probably not the best approach.
Mentioned it to them in passing, “wow your dogs bark a lot, are they OK?” type approach.
Had them round for tea soon after, dogs going mental in the background – they heard them (hard to avoid really) and suddenly the penny dropped. they apologised profusely and have made steps to reduce that behaviour.
Basically taking them out for walks (not just the garden to crap) helps. Dogs get bored, need exercise, pretty basic really but so many people just don’t realise. Not that they’re stupid or don’t care, they just have no clue.
Every case is different, guess it’s lucky these neighbours realised and have more than an ounce of intelligence to acknowledge and try and do something about the behaviour. If your neighbour is some scrubby bathsh*t crazy cat-throwing type then yes, you might have a bit of a challenge. Ibiza club classics might work but what about any other neighbours in the area?

You don’t want a dispute with neighbours. surefire way of making your life difficult as well. Don’t get hung up on it.

wondering if you remember the context its in, like an advert or something?

My dad drove through africa in a fiat 500…in the 60’s. with a friend who’s 6’4. for several weeks.
As long as you don’t rag it you’ll be fine, just enjoy the adventure! 🙂
I would say it’s not like you’ll be in the middle of nowhere if you need rescuing either.

Also I hired one when I was in tuscany a few years ago. hilarious fun on the twisty turny roads in the hills…cornering on 2 wheels 😀

Could be acid reflux, or heartburn, gp should know if you give clear description.
don’t fret, ulcers can be treated with antibiotics.

ah, yes. I can climb fairly well…for now… 😉

haha, lol. yeah far point. I do have a little way to go before I hit 17 stone…not without trying though! burger and chips night tonight 🙂

Ha, yeah. I never got on with my Avids…might be something to do with that ‘not really stopping quite as quick as I’d like’ feeling 😉

Interestingly I just had a look at the shimano brakes – they’re so cheap! Trying to find reviews about the lower end, thinking I could replace the crappy V’s on g/fs bike! 🙂

my mini’s don’t seem to have worn much at all and I think I only changed pads once in all the years I’ve had them…!

get one that covers you year-round. Lots do these days, that sort of cost for just 2 weeks is a bit steep. they better serve champagne in the helicopter and hospital for that 😉

you couldn’t modulate the power with those at all?

I believe the process for shortening standard hoses is pretty straight forward, what’s it like with braided?

pump your 26 tyres up enough and it’s about the same as 27.5…
to be honest it’s less about the size of wheels and more about the power of the engine 😉

I’d say try one of the shorter travel fs frames. the 120 plus are geared more towards trail/all-mountain as they say these days…I have a ht which I use most but also a 120 fs which is great fun in tougher rides where I know I’m going to be hitting some bumpy stuff and the ht would be utterly punishing – I’m thinking more actual mountainous terrain than the comparatively sedate south downs or something.
One thing I notice is on the HT I always aim for the smoothest line which in return tends to give more speed, with that same mentality on the fs – and the added bump-absorbance – trail speed is kept up pretty well and it’s hugely fun

as above. wear warmer layers on your body and the circulating blood should help warm extremities. Gilet goes a long way. Also things like helly hansen, underarmour, 2XU thermal/compression type clothing can really help. You’ll have most benefit with long sleeves/leggings.
When you exercise blood moves from extremities to muscles (generally speaking). It could be worth getting checked for raynaud’s syndrome or similar circulation conditions if you suffer from cold feet etc often.

I have 2 sets of e4,s one set of m4’s, one set of x2 and a set of x2 race. Picking I would pretty much always pick the e4’s because they just work and feel amazing. The x2’s are very good but lack the power of the e4’s and the x2 race are my least favourite. They definitely don’t feel like they have more power than the x2 and the lever doesn’t feel as good as the the tech lever. I always pick braided just because they look good. I can’t say the braided feels any different or improves the brake though But I’m not really bothered if they weigh a bit more. I think good brakes give you more confidence to push harder knowing you can stop faster if it all goes wrong. The modulation on hopes is also second to none and again helps with confidence.

Sounds like a reasonable comparison having all of them to play with. Cheers for that.

Nickc – E4’s are double piston, X2’s are single. As a result they look a little chunkier. Guess I’m used to the sleeker looking single pistons. What are you running?

Unbraided, E4 front, X2 rear both race levers. Job jobbed! You don’t pay much of a weight penalty for the E4 calipers.

Yep, there’s only a matter of grams between them to be honest…a chocolate bar in the pack covers that difference! and when you factor in that it’s on a bike that’s already laden with sus links then a few extra grams is, well, not worth worrying over 🙂

Lol… I stopped growing up when I was young 🙂

sounds like a seal somewhere in the system is not sealing properly. When you bleed them are you pumping them to squeeze the bubbles out to double check?

Backing off a touch is best to allow what ever it is to heal. I think it’s good you’re getting advice, if you can it’s worth seeing a sports specific physio with knowledge of cycling and related injuries, particularly given you ride regularly. It could be something completely unrelated you don’t even remember doing that cycling sets off…
When you get going again remember to cover the basics: stretch before and after, hydrate during and after. Best way to stretch is about 10mins after warming up – not flat out spinning but steady state – then hop off and go up the leg stretching each group; calves, quads, glutes, hamstrings. Remember the hamstring effectively starts at your ankle, travels up the back of your leg, round your bum and inserts into the back above the pelvis (roughly speaking). So the stretching up the leg and bum helps this.
Have you tried any hydration fluids? you can buy the usual lucozade or things like SiS powders but a good cost effective one is get some glucose powder from a chemist (boots do it) add a scoop to some water and a decent pinch of salt. does exactly the same as the expensive stuff only much cheaper!

What sort of bike/terrain do you ride? the recent dry weather may have changed the trails allowing you to push a bit harder – could have caused a slight pull on something.
I know out on my hardtail I’ve been able to go harder in the drier conditions (loving it!), though hanging off the pedals over bumps it’s the tendons around the ankles that take the hits, might be a minor technical thing but if the knees can flex and take the hits that would save the lower legs – from a purely biomechanical view.

I’m rolling 2.1 both ends on a ht, the difference as mentioned above is in what each does. Front is a nobby nic and on the back is an old wtb tyre with a low profile. Trails around me are dry so the nn helps if I encounter looser bits and the lighter tread on the back spins fast.
Weirdly my tyres appear to max out at 2.1 even ones I use alpine riding (actually in the Alps not the alpine style out-&-back stuff)

If there’s any doubt best take it to a dealer and get them to check it out. most mfrs frames have lifetime guarantees but either way you’ll be able to get a hands-on pro to check and give you a definitive answer….rather than posting a few photos on a forum which will not really give you peace of mind.

I encounter this occasionally, in fact had very similar rebuilding my fiancés the other day.
to start assembly I pulled the cable outer off, cleaned the wire, squeezed a bit of low weight oil in then put it back on. Next set the tension as per normal. It did the jumpy thing when I tested it so carefully played with the fine adjustment nob on the shifter (deore – but I think lots have the same adjustment), took a bit of fiddling but eventually it shifts cleanly.
I should say I set the front ring to the middle and made the adjustments.
As above, important to check the cable is free running, the spring in the derailleur is not gummed up/compromised and all parts work – as best as you can tell – independently.
If it’s not going into higher gears it may mean the tension isn’t quite as high as it should be from the outset, no matter how hard you push the lever it won’t increase – hence reached the limit of it’s tension as you’ve set it.

Sounds fair. Cheers for that, was just wondering what, if any, difference it makes.

I wouldn’t. Things may have changed but when I had probs with a fork (fox float) on a new bike they ‘fixed’ it but had to go back 3 times. first they broke the lock-out, then they over inflated the air cartridge and blew it then mashed the washers inside and it leaked oil out of the bottom. It’s not rocket science but they managed to wreck them each time. eventually I think fox sent a whole new crown/legs. only the lowers are original!
So, no. Don’t go to evans for fork servicing…

Yep. When running and often when riding.
Despite other’s reservations, when I was biking in London a lot I preferred tunes than car sounds – just grew an extra set of eyes and became ultra aware of what cars were doing. Generally if you can keep up most of the time things are fine, plus I usually took detours off major arteries to avoid traffic as much as possible. Think circuits of richmond park or similar quieter roads.
Out on the trails (south england and south west) I sometimes wear them, if I’m heading out to churn through some miles and at a decent pace…couple of hours with no stops sort of thing, a few tunes help to keep things ticking over otherwise as above: nice to be out and hear everything around. Certainly when I’ve been riding in the alps it’s the quiet on the hills which is awesome 🙂
I should point out I’m usually alone when riding like this, when as part of a group; no tunes.