Its tubeless on a Crest rim, its holding air no problem and the bead is evenly seated all the way round, I'm pretty sure its either a faulty tyre or it just needs to stretch out a bit, I'm hoping the latter.

If you run hot then you are probably better off with a light jacket that will breath, I have a Salomon trail running top which is vented up the side. There are lots of adventure-racing type jackets out there which breath properly, most of the bike stuff I have seen or tried is pretty boil-in-the-bag unless you pay a fortune.

I used 2.1 Medusas all winter last year, they are great in muddy or soft conditions but they're a bit lethal on roots, I scared the sh!t out of myself a couple of times on fast descents. I might try and see how the Ignitors go this year or stick a Swampthing on the front. Mud X look worth a try though.

Larsen 2.35 rear, Ignitor 2.35 front.

Rich there will probably be overflow camping available, I rang the normal campsite a couple of weeks ago and the lady there was organising the overflow. She just took my name and told me to make sure and give somebody a fiver when I got there.

I've just laid out the mudguards along with the rest of the kit, the mocker gods are watching.

I bought a lemon when I was down there, it can get very expensive. Mates used Kea and were happy with them.

They got an Orange Strange prototype, 90% of the review was about the tester's inability to ride with bars with an extra inch on each end, and the emotional fallout that he was dealing with as a result.

I had a set of Medusas last winter, they grip very well and roll alright but they are a bit lethal on rocks and roots. I'll probably try Ignitors this winter and see how I get on, there seemed to be a few people riding them last winter.

I would go for the Merlin groupset with the wheels, you might need to buy some Shimano gear outer from CRC too. On-One have some deals on saddles and usually have some cheap finishing kits for bar/stem/post, make sure you go for a short stem. You should be able to stay under a grand. I would spend a bit extra and get some Hope Hoops, decent quality wheels and always going to be worth a few quid second hand.

I would be tempted to do a decent ride early next week if you've had time off, or maybe one or two short, sharp ones. It depends how well you usually recover. You are better getting out there and realising that you feel pretty good and are looking forward to the event, than resting and worrying.

I used to park there over the weekend, no problems. They may have started charging since then but you should be able to park on the street somewhere near the terminal.

Its a total rip-off, none of the major retailers bother seem to pick and pack these orders more quickly. They still take 2 days to process and then you get them next day delivery, which would probably happen anyway. If you complain they will hide behind the small print.

I would say you are guessing about right, you should definitely seal it. You don't want to get to the last bag drop and realise that the food you have been thinking about for an hour has fallen out of your bag.

Its on the site, sandwich bag sized, own bags, write the number on them once you have registered.

Sorted, thanks!

The wee tri bags are very handy, a couple of mates have them on their road bikes.

Thats a good shout uplink, thanks.

I've no bottle cage

4.99 from your LBS, more than worth it…

I've no mounts and no obvious place to bodge it where the bottle won't fall out or get covered in shite. I'll probably have a look at the saddle-mounted holders but I want to use a saddle bag and the idea of attaching everything with a plastic mount and having it fall off after 15 miles is giving me the fear.

After trying a few different options this week, I'll be putting as much weight as possible on the bike. I've no bottle cage so I can't decide between chucking a bottle in the back pocket or carrying a very light pack. If I have too much crap in my jersey pockets I find it gets disorganised and I worry about stuff falling out.

Take a long look at rentals, you might get a nice deal because plenty of people are stuck with properties and just looking to cover their costs. I would look to stay close to the coast and pick a decent area which will take care of the schools. Epic MTB seem like a good bunch of people.

Radoggair, fair play to you for putting the miles in, but have you ever considered that you might be addicted to exercise?

I used to kick about with a Scandi girl who had issues, when we suggested that she took a day off she would say something like "I had a day off a couple of weeks ago". She used to keep herself going with enormous amounts of cereal, every now and then the sugar rush would wear off and somebody would find her asleep somewhere, like at her desk at work, or sitting on the pan.

Continous cable run: not worth it

I stripped down my 456 after 18 months use including two very muddy winters, and the cables were running as smoothly as the day they went on. The ones I bought to replace them are still in the spares box.

Phone the campsite, a nice lady will take your name for the "event-only" overflow camping. Give somebody a fiver on arrival and you're sorted.

I did a couple of long road rides last week, I'm trying to get out at for a couple of hours at a quickish pace every day this week, may do a 5 hour ride on Thursday and then a couple of very easy runs next week. If I take long rests I feel really sluggish when I get back on the bike.

I had nothing but trouble with my Delica, total nightmare.

Volvo is probably the best bet.

You will probably be fine. I have been flashed a few times in various vehicles and never heard anything back.

Also bear in mind that some people will keep pushing and pushing until you stand up for yourself, and that being nice to them will get you nowhere. I have some awkward neighbours at a business premises and wasted a lot of time trying to be diplomatic. Just keep everything to the letter of the law and get on with things.

Second the adjustable forks, I only use the Talas to take the edge off when I know I'm going to be doing a long ride and loads of steady climbing.

If the B&B and the training courses are legit in their own right I can't see the problem, unless you aren't paying the correct rates and/or insurances.

Your neighbour's definition of a "mountain bike centre" is probably designed to get the response she is looking for from the council. Just stick to the letter of the law and get on with it.

Good of you to clear that up molgrips.

I've got the impression from a few places that there will be more singletrack and maybe a bit more technical stuff than last year. What body armour for the Kielder 100?!

Stato, I'm not trying to set any records so I'm sticking with tyres that I'm going to use elsewhere. I'm not that bothered about the profile because I'm not going to get any fitter at this point so I will just have to keep moving until somebody tells me to stop. I can see how it might matter for the more competitive guys who are trying to carry less weight etc.

I think you bring your own sandwich bags to the Friday briefing, mine are just going to have some High5 4.1 powder and a couple of bars in them. Maybe some jelly sweets for the last one.

I'm not too bothered to be honest, there will be route info available after. I have been wondering where the biggest sections of fire road or singletrack will be, but its not going to make a massive difference.

I think I am going for a Larsen 2.35 and a High Roller 2.35, just need to order the Larsen and some food and figure out the drop-bags.

I rang up last week and a nice lady took my details and told me to go to Jim or Bob's field and pay somebody a fiver when I got there, I'm sure the camping will be fine.

They are pretty blunt – "If you are stopped at a cut-off, it is because you are too slow, don't blame the marshall" 😀

The final month of preparation hasn't work out as expected so I am trying to get everything finalised this week, next week I am just going to rest up and prepare myself for the pain.

We have the biggest MacPac one, its not cheap but it is very adjustable for size, comfortable to carry, and the sunshade and rain cover work really well. Stand-up frames seem a bit gimmicky, I don't know how much use they'd be on uneven ground etc.

I don't think I have enough experience to go custom with confidence, I'll have to demo a few different set-ups. I'm near a Cervelo/Colnago/Scott dealer and my in-laws are handy to a Concept Store so I could try a Roubaix there.

Probably a whole bike or a build, probably carbon, possibly Ti. I'd like to keep it under 2.5k but I'm not fussy about a high-spec groupset because the 105 on the Cayo has given me no bother.

The other thing to bear in mind is the sizing options. I am 6'3" and I have loads of room on a Large with a 50mm stem, the XL would be a great option for a very tall person.

Yep its pretty maxed-out as far as stack height and rise go. The Cayo isnt a terrible fit, just a bit uncomfortable over long distances. Its the first road bike I've had and I am happy to keep using it for a while. I have been bit by the bug this summer and I want to treat myself to a big mile-muncher.

Wiggle won't be taking the bike back, I've had it about 18 months, it has done some big clims in the Alps and I did a couple of tons on it last week, but it is very low in the front end for long rides and I'm more bothered about comfort than being low over the front. The Roubaix has an extra 55mm on the headtube for the same size of frame.

I'll definitely be going to get fitted with this one but my local Specialized dealer don't fill me with confidence so I'd be interested in alternatives to the Roubaix?

I've got one with Talas 32s on the front, its a great wee bike. There have been a few threads about them now so I figured I would reply.

The gripes you will read about are pedal feedback, low BB, and bushings. Pedal feedback is only an issue when you're standing up in the granny ring, it seems to be a bit of a trade-off because it pedals great in the 36, when you're more likely to be standing anyway. The low BB takes some getting used to but its key to the whole design of the bike, I haven't used the taller setting at all. Bushings, apparently these can be a problem if they're not maintained, mine seem fine so far and they are cheap to replace, full instructions and a spare set come with the frame.

I have had the bike since May, it has done the Ae Enduro, some big rides in Chamonix, and I am doing Kielder on it. It climbs and pedals great but the best thing about it is the descending, its really low and slack, light enough to pick up and pedal, and stiff in the rear end. It feels a wee bit like the Blue Pig with a bit of give in the rear end, which is exactly what I wanted.

The tapered head tube means there are loads of ways to build them up. I went for 140mm 32s because I wanted to keep the weight down and balance it with the 127mm in the back. You need to keep an eye on the stack height and A2C, if you put too much effort into lowering the front end you will lose head angle and drop the BB even further – the seat angle is nice and steep anyway. I think mine is probably around 29lbs with SLX, Crests, 203/180 rotors, Sunline V1, Wellgo Mags. The Crests seem to be holding up fine, touch wood.