i want a stoater
like this

but this colour

Those 2 frames are actually the same. Just different buildkits. All Stoaters are now compatible with derailleur, singlespeed or IGH (Rohloff) transmissions.

I’m not looking forward to getting fitted in your workshop Steven. I’ll send you my old jeans, can you do it off that? )

That’ll be fine James. If that doesn’t work we can take an imprint from your sofa.

@Jamie

Lie horizontally (think planking) across the bike with your dangleberries resting on your stem cap. Your sternum notch should fit into the tip of your saddle and your nipple should be over the pedal spindle (nops). If your saddle/bar drop is correct, a 2p coin will roll slowly down your back and get wedged in your crack.

I’m still trying to work out how you can own a Phoenix but have never heard of a Type II! Egads.

A length of inner cable with an *almost* 90º bend tweaked into it about 30mm from the end works well. Feed the cable through then you can rotate/spin the cable until the cable starts heading in the right direction. Small needle nose pliers to grab it will help too. Ben’s thread and hoover trick works well too.

This was his Shand Stooshie. If it still has that bar tape it should be pretty identifiable. Also we didn’t do many with that fork.

Gutted for him.

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Robin’s Stooshie[/url] by shandcycles[/url], on Flickr

Might be a bit late to the party here MC but we have a couple of pairs of 700 Salsa forks that we’d let go cheap.

Can you attach it (NDS) to the upper disk calliper mount?

Yup, we spec the Co-Motion shifter on our drop bar bikes. We also do the Gilles Berthoud shifter (the shiny silver one above) but it’s not available in the more modern 31.8 clamp diameter so bar (and stem) choices are a little limited.

Ton, while the shifter on the end of the bar is ok, the twin cables coming from the shifter can really get in the way. I much prefer it up top.

Just being stupid. Read your last post.

I was going to reply but glad I didn’t. Not really interested in led tails anymore.

We’re building one for Bedmaker of this parish. Should be ready in about 2016 but ssshhh, don’t tell him that.

TM rules.

Bushnell every time.

Link to Brians review on the Washing Machine Post blog

Just for clarification, that review is actually for our standard Stoater not the FT version. The FT has clearances for 2.3 tyres rather than the 42-45mm tyres on the std. The FT also has slightly more BB drop, is slight longer and has a 73mm BB shell rather than a 68mm shell on the std.

Both have rack mounts. The FT doesn’t have a chainstay bridge so mounting mudguards is more of a problem. Although we have been testing using a boss on the back of the seatstay for mudguard mounting and this seems to be working well so we’ll probably do that going forward. That said, there’s a pretty limited number of quality mudguards for wiiiide 700/29er tyres at the moment.

I’d do my own geo and get Richard Sachs to put it together

and he’d tell you where to go!

Yup, bottle boss bole is fine. M5.

If ones like these are any use to you :

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Stoater[/url] by shandcycles[/url], on Flickr

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Stoater cable routing[/url] by shandcycles[/url], on Flickr

email me your address and I’ll bung some in the post for you.

probably one of the small production run of 29ers we did :

what-ever-happened-to-those-29ers

look anything like this?

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Shand XC 29er[/url] by shandcycles[/url], on Flickr

Where’s ‘Walking Bottom’?

Step1 . Drill the hole with an 8mm drill where it needs to be.

Step 2. oh….

should be straightforward and easy to do…

yeah, I’ve heard that before…..

please tell me you don’t want an 853 handbuilt version……

I might just do that, I’ll give Gaz a shout and see if he fancies a spin over.

He’s out at ours tomorrow. We’re doing a wheelbuilding course with Wheelsmith and he’s signed up.

MC, I think we have some Woodchippers at HQ that you could borrow. They’ve been on a demo bike.

Well, I don’t know what to say. What I do know though, is that if I screw a cup into a shell and the face isn’t perpendicular so I have a gap on one side and not the other. Then I keep tightening ’til that gap goes away, then something has either moved or deformed. Whether that has an impact on the smooth running or longevity of the BB I guess depends on the BB or where/how it’s moved/deformed. But I know it happens.

Just for balance, and to illustrate I have no axe to grind, I very rarely face the shell ends on bikes we build.

I think using a cone as first pass on one end and a relatively deep insert on the second pass on the other end will get things close enough for what we’re talking about needing done.

I feel I’m going slightly off-topic here a little as really I was commenting on the fact that if the faces of your bb shell aren’t perpendicular with the thread bore then when tightened, a bottom bracket that seats on the face of the shell, *may* have issues with binding and premature wear.

I’ve seen this many times when a bb is swapped out for a different type. I admire the analysis you’ve done but it doesn’t alter the fact that I’ve fixed binding bottom bracket spindles by chacing and facing the shell and I bet many other mechanics have too.

toys19 – just as an aside, one thing I picked up on in your previous post was this :

What would make the cups not parallel? The cups have 10-20mm of parallel stub going into a tube (also parallel) can you explain how facing influences how the cups go in?

I’m not sure how much influence it’s going to have on your calcs but the bore on each end of a headtube is not (often) going to be parallel or concentric. The heat (assuming a welded frame) is going to distort the headtube so it’s no longer straight but is bowed. And that’s why you both face AND ream the headtube so that your getting closer to a parallel bore on each end. The same is true with a BB shell. Because on both a headtube and a BB shell most of the joints are on one side only of the tube, the tube (again I’m assuming a welded frame) will always bow to some extent no matter the skill of the joiner.

read my previous posts that I linked to.

that looks like interesting stuff. I’ve read the post about the headset cups in an unfaced headtube. Do you have similar analysis for a threaded cup and misalignment?

shandcycles, with the greatest respect, that is utter bollocks.

ahh, the wisdom, care to elaborate?

Threads keep the BB aligned

No they don’t. Not if the cups are tightened up against the shell. It’s not really debatable, it’s just a simple engineering fact. There needs to be clearances in the mating threads to allow the threads to work, so the cups will always align to the face of the shell, not the thread. Assuming of course that the shell is close enough to being perpendicular to the thread bore that the cups don;t bottom out on the threads before the cups bottom out on the shell. That kind of setup isn’t unique to bicycles either.

However, most decent frames will have the shell close enough to being square that facing probably isn’t needed.

Aye? How’d d’you know that? Are you spying on me? (Reaches for tinfoil hat)

https://twitter.com/shandcycles

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Phil Wood hubs[/url] by shandcycles[/url], on Flickr

I have an early Shand, it’s fab, just needs transfers.

be patient Al, you’ve only been waiting 4? years for some stickers.

Drill it oot. Even better, use a left handed drill and it’ll probably start winding out before you’ve drilled too far into it. You want to just remove the head of bolt and that’ll release the tension. If you still can’t get out then, use an easyout extractor as above.

I live about a mile from there. And there isn’t any. I checked.

shandcycles – Member
I’m a bit partial to some grey….

That’s no way to talk about Nic!

If I was talking about Nic, I’d have said grey and bald.

I’m a bit partial to some grey….

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Tommy’s Stoater in final build[/url] by shandcycles[/url], on Flickr

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Shades of grey[/url] by shandcycles[/url], on Flickr

I just had an email from my Shimano guy in Japan….

For the OP, the new Ultegra shifter with hydraulic cylinder (ST-R785) is compatible with ALL e-tube drivetrains, so Dura Ace 9070, Ultegra 6870 and 6770, as well as Alfine Di2. 10 speed or 11 speed. You *may* need to upgrade the firmware to make all this work.

I’m not entirely sure that’s true. I think once the shifter places a shift command out on the bus, the mech will respond with what sprocket position it’s at. Whether the shifter makes any use of this data is a different matter though.

Interesting, the thing is, I’m not convinced that the rear mech even knows what gear it’s in! If you use the micro adjust to shift the chain to a larger sprocket (without actually shifting the mech using the button), I think you can still run through all the gears until the mech hits the limiters. This would lead me to believe the shifter just shifts either up or down until it hits the stops. I messed around with this a while ago and can’t say for sure this was the case but I might try it tomorrow.

Actually, thinking more on this, I suspect the rear mech must know roughly where it is in order to work the auto trim……