I wish someone would do a brifter that would change a rohloff…

We can do that now using a SRAM brifter if you want.

Kimi, don’t see any email from you. Email to steven@shandcycles.com and I’ll take a look.

Now with Jones bars.

I rode a bike earlier this year with an Italian electric hub (http://www.zehus.it/) and I thought it was great. Never thought I’d hear myself say that. I think it had loads of modes but when I rode it, the motor just kicked and and gave you a wee help. Like riding with a tailwind.

Don’t think I’d ever ride something like that offroad but could really see how it could get people into riding that are put off by distance or hills. I have a 20 mile each way commute and there are definitely days where I really can’t be arsed and would happily pull an e-bike out for the ride.

All MTBs within 10 years though? Not a chance.

Oh, and that hub also had regenerative braking.

Shand Bahookie[/url]

I think the fork is a plus point curves ride well and less toe overlap.

pish.

edit : Brant beat me to it and was much nicer about it too.

linky

Munrobiker, a stoater weighs less than a CdF??

the CdF frame is listed as 2.25kg, the Stoater is 2kg.

I think the key thing to remember is that for 2 tubes of equal diameter, wall thickness and butting profile, the 2 tubes will behave exactly the same in terms of stiffness regardless of the steel alloy and will be the same weight.. A theoretical frame constructed from the cheapest, lowest ‘quality’* steel will ride exactly the same as a frame constructed from the highest quality available steel if the tube profiles are identical. It wil also weigh the same.

In practice, the higher strength (better quality) steels can be drawn with thinner walls and shorter butting profiles without compromising the strength (among other things) of the frame. This is why higher end tubing produces lighter, stronger (and possibly better riding) bikes.

To answer your question, the higher end Reynolds steel will be better. If you count lighter, stronger and stiffer as attributes of being better. But not (directly) because of the material but because of the tube profile.

Since I’m sure I’ve already breached some forums rules earlier on that other thread and I’m about to go on holiday, I may as well post this :

and this :

Frame is bang on 2kg for a medium.

[blatentplug]cough[/blatentplug]

Pekka’s Bahookie rigid singlespeed by Shand[/url], on Flickr

Colin’s Bahookie singlespeed by Shand[/url], on Flickr

I see Ilan is off for a wee evening jaunt up the Bealach na Ba! Fully expecting his dot to be somewhere in the Western Isles when I get up tomorrow!

@tallboyjosh

sorry to hear of the scratch Josh. It’s been great following the dots. That was a really impressive pace early on to stretch out a decent lead.

My new hero is Ilan Rubinstein. Can’t wait to see where he’s gonna go next!

Correct. Jones Loops. Great bars.

Findra[/url]?

What exactly are you looking for lmttm?

And chains never snap thank god.

Sanny said :

but I know someone who got one custom and ended up with things that he didn’t ask for. As a custom bike, I would expect to get what I ask for and not have to have fixes made to the frame.

???? YGM Sanny.

though it’s status as my only mountain bike is going to change with the addition of a new 29″ hardtail (a Shand Bahookie that’s currently being just been painted).

Euain’s Bahookie by shandcycles[/url], on Flickr

After seeing the work done by a bike shop just this week, check that the chain is routed through the rear mech correctly.

I’ve done that. Built a new bike (105 group), test rode it. Everything seemed hunky dory. Sent to customer. He then road it on a Coast2Coat ride. He said the shifting wasn’t as good as he was expecting so took it to a bike shop who told him the cables needed replacing as they were worn (10 days old), they didn’t notice the problem. He eventually noticed it himself when cleaning the bike and realised the chain had practically sawn through the derailleur. I was ashamed.

straight tapered forks?

he means straight blades that have a taper.

Here ya go.

Stoater fork by shandcycles[/url], on Flickr

Mr Shand would you care to put a fork on a set of scales and take a picture please……

That seems awfully light for a full steel fork with a long heavy steerer

Will do that tomorrow for you but who said it had a long heavy steerer?

Steel tapered forks are a bit of a nightmare. If you can get over the issues of cost, weight, ride quality and aesthetics, then it’s all good!

If we made a tapered steerer version of our Stoater fork, the steerer alone would cost more than all the other parts put together.

Weight, a 1.5″ tapered steerer on it’s own (300mm length) will weigh about 450g. Our Stoater 1-1/8″ fork with an uncut steerer weighs 720g. It’s going to be a heavy fork.

A tapered steerer is going to look weird. Skinnyish blades into a 44mm headtube looks odd.

If you can’t live with the look of skinny blades and want a blade that matches and looks proportional to the headtube then you end up with an overbuilt mountainbike fork that won’t ride as well.

The first time some magazine guys took some pics of our bikes they they described it as a ‘drop shot’. It took 2 of them and it was suggested I might want to look away when they did it!

BTR or Swarf will both do 12mm dropouts, as I guess would any custom builder like 18 Bikes, Shand etc.

sorry for the blatant plug but our production bike is available with 12mm bolt thru. The pic is singlespeed but available with derailleur hanger too.

[/url]

5’3″ and 29″ wheels is a bad idea. Add in suspension and it gets worse. I imagine your bars are away up in the sky somewhere too?

Ton, YGM.

For the use of a Gates Belt drive the frame has to be passed by Gates for stiffness to make sure the flex doesn’t cause the problem, so I believe

That’s not really true. There’s nothing to stop you buying gates beltdrive parts and fitting them to any old thing. And yes, if the frame isn’t suited (too flexy/inaccurate chainline) then the experience you’ll have with the system will be poor.

The Gates test exists to make sure designers/builders have access to data to make sure their design will work as expected.

Some vendors want you to submit some of this data before they sell you parts to work with the beltdrive. This is to ensure you don’t build a bike to use the system that then proves to be a bit shonky, giving the whole system a bad name.

That’s mental! Like the one where that bloke from Scoobydoo gets ejected from the beetle.

One of our customers took her Stoater for a tour round Iceland this Summer and wrote about it on her blog :

http://sheilaswheels.blogspot.co.uk/%5B/url%5D

Just to provide context. This isn’t about welding, Al has an old frame that he wants to coat (ceramic? enamel?) I can’t remember, and the process requires the frame being at 800ºC for 2 minutes. He wants to know if this will weaken the frame to an extent that it will effectively be unrideable.

And yes, everyone is overthinking this massively :-)

Al,

I’ve just emailed you a tech doc from Reynolds, I’m not sure it sheds much light but it might be useful. I’m not sure if that doc is supposed to be in the public domain so I’d appreciate it if it wasn’t shared.

It might be, but I want someone to explain/convince me as to how rather than just say so.. Fancy a go at that?

Sorry Al, I don’t know why. What I know is that if I heat a 0.5mm downtube up to 800ºc and hold it there for a couple of minutes then I’m pretty sure that frame will break. I certainly wouldn’t ride it.

I know you’re looking for specifics and I’m not able to provide them for you. There is a ton of info out there for you to read but without knowing what steel alloy you have, wall thicknesses etc it might be hard to get actual data.

There’s some really good (basic) info on this in the ‘Machinery Handbook’. I’m sure there’s better and more up to date information available too.

No he isn’t.

I’m not sure how hot steel tubes would get in air at 800 degrees for 2 mins. But I think we can rule out 2 mins at 800 degrees

That’s why the test sound like a good idea

Or even just try an infra red pyrometer on a bit as it comes out of the oven

In a previous conversation, he told me the frame needed to be heated to 800ºC for 2 minutes. I agree putting it in an 800º oven for 2 minutes isn’t the same thing. I don’t know if he know this.

Al,

that frame is going to have a wall thickness of about 0.5 or 0.6 in the middle of the main triangle. You’re going to be heating it up to a bright cherry red for 2 minutes. It’s stupid. But I’m sure you’ll keep asking the same questions until someone tells you to go ahead. Whether it’s been tig welded or brazed makes no odds.

^^^^ He’s right ^^^^

If you look at the diagram for GXP (stepped spindle) setup on this page :

http://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/GeneralBBManual5-10-A%20Web.pdf

you need the items G,H and I

As above though, happy to stick some in the post for you if you need them.

Pretty sure we got these kicking about. Email me your contact details and I can get one in the post in the morning.

Daft question.. If it’s custom made why the lay back post and long stem?

sighs, shakes head, cries a little, looks around for bottle of port….