Bahookie?

Or if you’re thinking somethig lower/longer/slacker, we can do the Shug with an EBB.

Shug

https://www.shandcycles.com/bikes/shug/ ??

“I’m guessing in theory you could use a butted tube with a slightly thinner wall for threadless.”

That’s actually one of the ways we get the weight of our forks down. The downside is that a lot (most) star-fangled nuts don’t fit well.

We fill the blades with a squirt of awesome. Which everyone knows is lighter than air.

Shug ?

Also looking for a 12mm dynamo, has anyone seen complete wheels at a reasonable price or successfully used a 15mm and a sleeve?

Be careful if you are trying to use a sleeve that the indent on your fork will take the 15mm axle end. It’s not always just about the axle diameter.

I’d want to be sure that the welder was happy with thin materials before being concerned if he knows how to weld Ti. With the correct filler and adequate shielding (including back-side), if he’s not competent with very thin wall, your crack will become a big hole very quickly.

Tam Ton?

The boys have just picked up 3 bikes from us so they can carry on their trip. 2 of the bikes that were stolen were custom frames built by the guys at IslaBikes. They were a bit shell-shocked but in surprisingly good spirits.

They lost a lot of the kit that was on the bikes too, we had some bikepacking bags for them but they could do with some more stuff. If anyone has spare bags they could offer as a loan, they are in Edinburgh tonight/tomorrow and could pick up.

I’m can facilitate the return of stuff when they get back.

Steven

I need a cutting die to punch a slot in our seattubes.

Something like this :

https://www.unipunch.com/system-capabilities/typical-work-done/tube-coping/

I’ve run into this problem a lot with Spyre callipers. The body is just too big and chunky really. The flange placement on the hub is the issue most of the time. Some hubs are worse than others and we’ve seen dynamo hubs (especially SP) being the biggest culprit. The calliper is pretty meaty and if needed, I wouldn’t hesitate taking a file to it.

<cough>

http://www.shandcycles.com/bikes/bahookie-single

</cough>

I am waiting for the flat bar gravel bike to come out, for those times when you need a bit more control than drops can give you.

Daunder[/url]

Gupta’s in the Shyte

Yeah and Stan Smith is too :

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-41547471

Might want to read more than the first line in a news article @Davesport otherwise you end up looking like a right idiot.

List_of_people_with_the_name_Gupta

Hey Randan,

pretty much every 42mm I’ve ever tried/seen will fit in the Stooshie. Some 45mm tyres might fit but I don’t know which ones will and which ones won’t which is why we suggest 42 is the biggest. Two other points :

1) The standard TRP fork on the Stooshie is the limiting factor on tyre width, not the frame (the Lauf fork in that picture has more clearance than the TRP).

2) Frame size affects clearance, bigger frames have more clearance than smaller (although the smallest frame still have 35mm with mudguards and 42mm without as minimum).

Adjustable dropouts (not ebb)

Why no EBB OP?

Basically anything from this site Al :

thecarwarehouse

eg :

flickr clickety linky[/url]

I’m not doing frame repairs and mods at the moment, too much other work to do…

makes note to stop sending nutjobs to Ben ;-)

I produce my parts to a much higher standard than your frame’s bottom bracket so not uncommon.

Spits coffee out!!

if the prices go up much more i could almost justify a shand frame, they are about a grand

Not anymore!

https://www.shandcycles.com/2017/02/23/price-increase-warning/%5B/url%5D

OK, I’m still not sure from your answer if you’re talking only about multiple chainrings- it reads like you’re saying that single ring, non-boost and 3 inch doesn’t work, though? Been there, done that, it was fine.

I’m just saying that if the chainline is what it’s supposed to be then it’s going to be close. Especially with short chainstays. Single ring makes it better but Boost makes it more betterer.

@Shand- How does Mr Stooge manage just fine with 135QR!?

No Idea. The 135mm QR is exactly the same as 142mm in this context. There’s no difference. I don’t have any skin in this game. I’m just saying that if you’re designing a bike and you ca squeak an extra few mm clearance by going to Boost then it makes sense.

Do you mean with dual ring?

@Northwind

Well a dual ring makes it pretty bad. If we assume the outside of a 3″ tyre is 38mm from the frame centreline, the inner ring on a double (M8000 XT in this example) sits about 43mm from the centreline. That gives you 5mm for a chain and some mud! A single chainring sits about 48mm out so giving you closer to 10mm clearance. This also assumes the chain is running parallel to the frame centreline. Which it won’t be. It’ll hit the tyre.

If there’s space to run SS as 142, then they could have kept it for geared too. Why the two standards!

I’m assuming because if you run 142 (non-boost) with a 3″ tyre and gears, the chain will rub on the tyre. That’s what Boost is for innit?

It’s our ‘Imperial Blue’. Standard colour.

£300?? pfffttt, we just put the price on one of ours up by £670! And I’d also like to just remind everyone that Brexit hasn’t even happened yet.

One other point, I’m not sure how JamesO deals with this and how the factories deal with this but if we have a seat stay with a bend in it, particularly s-bend stays, and we use the same stay with the same bend on each size, then the tyre clearance will differ between sizes (smaller frames get less clearance). We try to shoot for a minimum published tyre clearance and accept that bigger frames will get more.

I agree it is difficult for potential customer to get a feel for this and it’s now more complicated as people start to use multiple rim sizes on the same frame (650/700).

I would really find it helpful if frame manufactures published the width of their frame’s chain and seat stays where the tire passes through.

FWIW, I sort of agree. However, what tyre?

And how much are we looking at for one of these natty one off Shand paint jobs?

I don’t think we’ve ever charged more than £150 for custom paint.

Out of curiosity, what sort of weight would a large bahookie frame come in at?

Asking for a friend?!

Just a smidge under 2kg.

We did a Martini Porsche one recently too. I’ll see if I can find pics.

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I’d love Ian’s Shand Bahookie up there whatever, but being a fellow rally fan it really is one of my favourite bikes ever.

We did a Martini Porsche one recently too. I’ll see if I can find pics.

Inspiration.

He might have fitted the Woltfooth mtb-road tanpan somewhere.

If Marc B is who I think he is, he almost certainly fitted one of those.

Have you got that axle in correctly? From the pictures, it looks like you should have the ‘nut’ the other way round. The dropout has a retainer plate that comes off (tiny allen bolt), the nut is then inserted into the dropout and the retaining plated added. This effectively turns it into a captive nut. Similar to this :

Looked at Shand but just not sure about it.. maybe its the colour they have on their site…

Fill yer boots :

colours, colours, colours

I’m assuming folks are thinking this is ebay the OP i s talking about. It’s not.

I’ve had the conversation with them and been told that if it’s marked as cosmetic imperfections then that won’t include any damage to the screen of monitors and laptops. I say go ferret.

Just dent it. But don’t heat it.

Ison do a nice one for just over a hundred quid. 465mm ATC so maybe a little long for what you want?

Ison 29er fork