Just paid my tax by credit card – no fee. As said above it is only buisness CCs that are charged a fee.

Ug, so much for replacing the bearings in my SRAM GX jockey wheels, that’s them seized again!

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Bushes could be a good idea, any power loss through the drivetrain isn’t going to be the result of the different bearing type! Think i’ve got 4 rides on my Apex mech, jockey wheels are also going the traditional Sram way already.

Replaced my SRAM GX jockey wheels with Shimano 105, I think bushes are definitely the best solution for cross

Why not ban cars from the dual carriageways? It’d encourage safer and more environmentally friendly travel, and the TTers could use the outside lane whilst the bimblers used the inside?

Because the draft of the cars gives a quicker time 🙂

4iiii user too, similar price to stages, run through this winter with no issues and appears accurate relative to my other (different make)

The vittoria ones are great, much easier to use and fill than the screw top ones

Space Oddity wasn’t that bad 😉

A 10 speed road cassette spacing (3.95mm) is virtually the same spacing as an 11 speed mountain (3.9mm) and therefore will work if you adjust the limit scews to prevent overshifting on the ‘extra’ click. details of spacings here:

http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/%5B/url%5D

At that age the fast lads are fast regardless of the bike etc. It gets expensive when the kids want to race Road CX MTB and TT! Fortunately Seamus jnr is now on the same size as me so at least for CX we can share 2 bikes between us. Great racing today at York, thanks to all the organisers.

Seatpost is 31.6, bottom bracket shell is 73mm english. Headset depends on the forks

Edit – Use carbon paste for the seatpost such as finish line fibre grip

You can use the combined cadence/speed sensor (GSC-10) with a forerunner 610, but not the separate cadence sensor

With all due respect to U23 womens ‘cross, if people are using motors there, what on earth are Tinkoff-Saxo / Astana doing when the stakes (money) is higher?

Of course those pesky eastern Europeans are bound to be cheating 🙄

Surely the left crank only sticks out 2.5mm more than it should?

It does but the right crank is 2.5mm less, hence 5mm. It wasn’t a problem/noticeable for me.

In the end I got some chain ring spacers from SJS cycles which work great for correcting the chainline.

STATO – Member
If you go race silver BRONZE you get a provisional race licence included,

Yes your right, can’t think why I’ve got silver unless they’ve changed it

If you go race silver you get a provisional race licence included, this means you don’t need to buy a day race licence for a lot of events, particularly CX

Good PSA thanks

NWCCA vets are 40 mins Garry.

Yes, best course so far this year imo, small changes from last really improved it.

@Garry, Stadt Moers? I was in the same position – 4 laps @ 37:30ish, I thought I had another lap but that’s how it falls sometimes. I was counting laps for the other races and the total number of laps was being estimated by the chief commissaire after the 1st 2 laps, although there are timing chips he was using his stopwatch.

When running a single NW chainring it is possible to increase the tension on Shimano derailleurs as there are 2 spring positions, there is a link on the Absolute Black website. Apparently SRAM have a higher spring tension so don’t need the hack. I run a Veloce mech with no mods and have had no drop chains so far.

Edit – here Derailleur tension

I have a Mio 505. Navigation is very good using OSM maps and I have no issues with recording tracks or syncing with Strava, I don’t really use the Mioshare website apart from downloading tracks which I create on Ride with GPS. There is a good forum cyclogps.com, if you go on there you will see the biggest issue which is software support. There have been some nightmares recently with updates. although I am fairly happy with it, I would probably get a Garmin if I was buying again

At 16 unless he has got massive natural talent your lad will get dropped very quickly on his 1st try on a crit, there are some very good riders at that age who have been riding circuits such as CSP’s in Nelson since they were 8 or 9, its not just about fitness, alot to do with technique/confidence. My lad got dropped consistently all through his 1st year (at 14) and can still struggle in crits. However through joining a club he has developed a love of cross racing and TTs as well as recreational riding.

If he likes cycling/racing I would recommend joining a club, CSP are supposed to be very good in the 16 to 18 age range. They will have good coaches for technique and fitness and will do more activities than purely crit racing. Above all don’t get dis-heartened after the 1st attempt.

EDIT: Tuesday nights at UCLan as mentioned in Mick_rs post above are very good with a range of abilities taking part

They usually give you the basics – helmet, gloves and jackets. I’ve just passed my mod2, I was surprised that cycling didn’t seem to help at all with the mod 1 slalom & figure of 8, either that or I’m a crap cyclist.
Glad I did it, its good fun and much easier getting to work now not sitting in a queue of cars for over an hour.

They have just updated the software which has caused untold problems for some people. The navigation is excellent which I believe is an issue on the Garmin units. I like mine, I got it cheap 2nd hand, but due to the lack of technical support for the software I would be wary about buying one now.

Some good info on http://cyclogps.com/

The arm on the speed sensor is adjustable by loosening the screw. I have run above and below the chainstay

That’s great, thanks, we did think of the premier inn but didn’t think they would let bikes in the rooms. Will look at both options.

What on earth is wrong with frothing milk? Or is there now a sub-clique of Classic ownership?

Nothing as long as it is before 9-30am 😉

I was also told no cross bikes, would be interested to know if they are allowed. Cross bikes seemed faster last year.

The touring does not have a barometric altimeter so strava will use the info from their map data, in my experience it is always lower than the barometric value. I would have thought the 500 & 800 would be the same, but if they haven’t been acclimatised temperature wise before starting recording there can be a significant error. My son’s 500 can give some pretty weird elevations for this reason

I wrap up to the stitching leaving the perforated side exposed.Really nice tape, easy to wrap, feels good and wears well.

You can use any ant+ sensor.

I have run my Alfa GT (same engine) with standard BP diesel for a couple of years with no issue. When I 1st got it I tried the shell V power and also the millers additive, but no noticeable difference in consumption or performance, about 1-2 MPG difference between all 3 over several fills.

I did have to clean the EGR soon after I got it, but I put it down to whatever the previous owner used, no problems since.

Looks like different organisers to last years ‘Hurt at the Haigh’ I hope its as good

I don’t think there is a difference, the duration and course type was the same as the other CX races I have done

Some great photos, I was racing in the vets which Nick Craig won and then came 2nd in the seniors an hour later!

Yes I’ve got a set, running a single ring on a standard spider, no issues in the 3+ years I’ve had them, they feel stiff enough and the silver finish stays looking good.

They use a standard hollowtech 2 BB

Got one for my lad. The hardware is good as said above. The Brytonsport website is okay, not brilliant, but neither is Garmin connect that I use with my Garmin 500. He can upload to Strava from the Brytonsport software without any issues so mainly uses that. (there is an export to Strava tab)

I’m 6ft 4 and ride a large/long RR, designed for flat bars but I use Midge bars with a 90mm stem. Its not supposed to work like that but I love it both on and off road with fixed gear and 700c wheels, there will be lots of seatpost showing. The only thing I didn’t like was the heavy and harsh fork. I changed it for an Alpina carbon cross fork, which much improved the ride.

Gorilla tape Stans crest 26″ and RRs failed miserably for me. Ended up using the yellow tape and they went up no problem. Not worth the saving imo

It is aluminium and works ok

They were designed to go with low normal and IMO make more sense with a low normal rear mech, but will work with either