i have recently been a convert too …
running xc sp3 with stans 355 and non tubeless rocket ron evo3 carcasses set up tubeless… (the 400 gram flypaper ones)
ragged hell out of them on the selkirk merida and the glentress rockfest (black) and local riding at the sidlaws.
Love em , i went from 3/4 pinch flats a week (partially down to the old rims being super narror) to running low pressures on these ! and they are light to boot
The hope builds were a bit wonky but A.im Pernickety and B it only took 10 mins with a spoke key to bring them into +/- 0.5mm ish from the +/- 3mm they are built to

I'm doing exactly this for a trip to 10 under the ben in a fortnight. So how have the Rocket Rons continued to perform over the last wee while ? Still good, no explosions?
Interested in the comment about being true. That's a worry. How did you fix that then. I get the spoke key but do you have a full wheel truing rig to do that or can an amateur do it?

OK, I've just been through an exercise to instsll said 15QR adapters (on Pro3 hubs). So if this helps – they just pushed (very easily) in on each side. No retaining clips, no screwing in, just slid in nicely.
So in theory you should just be able to pull them out by pulling them off one at a time by maybe using something inserted into the adapter and tug.
Also – do you have 'official' Pro3 std QR adapters – the ones i took out actually screw together once inserted.

Don't have my wheels handy but happy to do pics on Mon night if you've still got problems.

Well I think mine is great. Had it a year, used it in roads, trail centres, Torridon fun. It helps me do stuff but at the same time (like another poster said) I'm definitely overbiked – it's better than I am 🙂

Mine are always a pain – Hope Tech X2 and Hayes Stroker Ryde.

Northwind – like the paint tip – might try that. I find it really hard to get enough leverage to get pistons ALL the way in to then get a disc between SS pads on either system

Is that Pro2's rther than Pro3's – coopersport1 has said the Pro3's are screwed in.

Answer for Pro3 (Pro III) Hubs is to unscrew them – there's a threaded end to the QR adapters. One of the adapters goes all the way through the middle of the Hub and screws into the shorter adapter at the other side.
Appears they're maybe glued together as they're REALLY tight.

So to unscrew the simplest thing is two Allen keys, one each side, and apply loads of force. Hope response was 'swing on them – they'll be fine' so there we are. I couldn't do it using a screwdriver with allen key head on one side and allen key in the other – too much give in the arm using the screwdriver. Two Allen keys though, preferably not in a flexible tool tyoe mount so you get maximum purchase and eventually the glue gives with a small 'crack' and job done. 15Qr straight in and we're off.

Cheers coopersport1 for the screw in tip !!

Is that Pro2's rther than Pro3's – coopersport1 has said the Pro3's are screwed in.
This is also a brand new wheel so nothing should be seized I hope 🙁

Pro 3's however (after much pulling, swearing, leaving it alone etc etc) screw in! with an internal tube between the QR's.

Help – so how did you get them out? I'm sitting here with one of these and not sure if I want to get pliers out and damage something. Is there a neat trick – sort of looks like there might even be an allen key type shape inside both sides and again before I go shoving allen keys in and trying – is this right ?

Cheers.